Randy Chandler
Thomas Jefferson is often credited with bringing macaroni and cheese to America, but this is not entirely accurate. Jefferson did, however, play a role in popularising the dish in the country. While in France, Jefferson discovered pasta and fell in love with it, even sketching a maccaroni machine. He also brought back a macaroni mould from Italy. It is believed that Jefferson's enslaved chef, James Hemings, was the one who truly introduced macaroni and cheese to America and should be credited for its popularity. Hemings accompanied Jefferson to France, where he trained in French cuisine and would have learned to make macaroni and cheese during his culinary studies in Paris.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Thomas Jefferson's role in popularizing macaroni and cheese in America | Thomas Jefferson popularized macaroni and cheese in America, although he likely did not introduce it to the country. |
| Jefferson's association with the dish | Jefferson discovered macaroni and cheese during his time in France and became enamored with it. He brought it back to America and frequently requested it to be served. |
| The role of James Hemings | James Hemings, Jefferson's enslaved chef, is credited with inventing the macaroni and cheese recipe. Hemings accompanied Jefferson to France and learned French cuisine, including how to make macaroni and cheese. |
| The recipe for macaroni and cheese | A recipe for macaroni and cheese in Jefferson's handwriting survives, although it was likely dictated to him by Hemings or another enslaved chef, Edith Hern Fossett. The recipe includes eggs, milk, flour, and salt. |
| The popularity of macaroni and cheese in America | Macaroni and cheese has become a popular dish in America, especially in Virginia, where it is said to be the most popular Thanksgiving side dish. |
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What You'll Learn
Thomas Jefferson likely didn't introduce mac and cheese to America
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with bringing macaroni and cheese to America, this is likely not the case.
Firstly, pasta was not unknown in 18th-century Great Britain and its American colonies. Pasta baked with cheese had already become a popular dish in France by the time Jefferson travelled there in 1784.
Secondly, Jefferson's enslaved manservant and chef, James Hemings, would have learned to make macaroni and cheese during his culinary training in Paris. Hemings, not Jefferson, should therefore be credited with introducing the dish to America. Hemings spent five years with Jefferson in Paris, learning French cuisine while Jefferson acted as the United States minister to France. Hemings was granted his freedom in 1796 and died in 1801 at just 36 years old.
Thirdly, while Jefferson did popularise macaroni and cheese in America, he was not the first to introduce it to the country. In 1788, Jefferson sent his private secretary, William Short, to Italy on a culinary fact-finding trip. Short returned in 1789 with a macaroni mould and details for making cheeses. Jefferson also sketched a "maccaroni" machine.
Finally, while there is a recipe for macaroni and cheese in Jefferson's own hand, it was likely dictated to him by Hemings or another enslaved chef, Edith Hern Fossett.
In conclusion, while Thomas Jefferson may have championed macaroni and cheese in America, he likely did not introduce it to the country. The credit for this should go to James Hemings, who has been described as "our culinary founding father".
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Jefferson's enslaved chef, James Hemings, created the dish
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with bringing macaroni and cheese to America, it was actually his enslaved chef, James Hemings, who created the dish. Hemings was a skilled chef who spent years training in France and worked as the chef de cuisine at Jefferson's home in Paris. He likely learned to make macaroni and cheese during his time in France, as the dish was already popular there.
Hemings' version of macaroni and cheese, known as "Macaroni Pie" at Monticello, was unique in that it did not require a flour-based cheese sauce. Instead, the elbow macaroni was cooked in equal parts milk and water, and then layered with cheese and butter, with a little of the cooking liquid poured over each layer. This recipe, which Hemings likely created, was simple and only required a few ingredients.
Jefferson was known to enjoy macaroni and cheese and often requested that Hemings prepare it for him. In fact, Jefferson was so fond of the dish that he brought it back to America and popularised it among the founding fathers. He even had a macaroni mould procured from Italy so that he could make the pasta himself. However, it is important to note that Jefferson did not invent macaroni and cheese, nor was he the first to introduce it to America. Pasta was already known in the American colonies, and baked pasta with cheese had become popular in France before Jefferson's arrival in 1784.
Despite Hemings' significant contribution to American cuisine, he is often overlooked in history. He was eventually granted freedom in 1796 and worked as a cook in Philadelphia and Baltimore. Unfortunately, his life ended in tragedy at the young age of 36 in 1801. While Hemings may not have received the credit he deserved, his legacy lives on in the popularity of macaroni and cheese in America.
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Hemings learned to make mac and cheese in Paris
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with bringing macaroni and cheese to America, it was actually his enslaved chef, James Hemings, who introduced the dish to him. Hemings learned to make mac and cheese during his time in Paris, where he trained at the most prominent French catering companies and even in the royal household of the Prince of Conde at Chateau Chantilly. After just three years, Hemings was running the kitchen of Jefferson's home in Paris, Hotel De Langeac, as chef de cuisine, the highest rank in the kitchen.
Hemings likely learned to make macaroni and cheese during his culinary training in Paris, as the dish was already popular in France by the time Jefferson and Hemings arrived in 1784. Jefferson, who was serving as the American minister to France, fell in love with pasta and Italian cuisine during his time in Paris. He also discovered a "'maccaroni' machine" and had his private secretary, William Short, travel to Italy to learn more about pasta and cheese-making.
While Jefferson popularized macaroni and cheese in America, it was Hemings who truly invented the dish and brought it back to the United States. Hemings was eventually granted his freedom in 1796, and he returned to Paris before working as a cook in Philadelphia and Baltimore. Unfortunately, Hemings met a tragic end and died in 1801 at just 36 years old.
The first printed recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in the wildly popular cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife" (1824), written by Mary Randolph, a relative of Thomas Jefferson. The recipe, which includes dressing the macaroni with cheese, is believed to have been passed down through Jefferson's family, from Hemings to Randolph.
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Jefferson popularised mac and cheese in America
While Thomas Jefferson did not introduce macaroni and cheese to America, he did popularise it. In the late 1780s, while Jefferson was the American minister to France, he discovered pasta and fell in love with it. He also developed a passion for Parmesan cheese, which he sprinkled over his "macaroni pie".
Jefferson's enslaved chef, James Hemings, was trained in French cuisine and would have learned to make macaroni and cheese during his time in Paris. Hemings has been credited with inventing the mac and cheese we know today. However, it was Jefferson who brought the dish back to America and served it to many of the founding fathers. In 1802, Jefferson served macaroni and cheese at a state dinner, and the dish quickly became popular.
The first printed recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in the wildly popular cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife" (1824), written by Jefferson's relative, Mary Randolph. Randolph's recipe included dressing the macaroni with cheese. Jefferson also had a recipe for macaroni and cheese, which was most likely dictated to him by Hemings or another enslaved chef, Edith Hern Fossett.
Today, macaroni and cheese is said to be the most popular side dish in Virginia for holiday meals, particularly Thanksgiving.
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Jefferson's relative, Mary Randolph, published the first mac and cheese recipe
While Thomas Jefferson did not bring macaroni and cheese to America, his enslaved chef, James Hemings, popularised the dish in the country. Hemings was trained in French cuisine and learned to make the dish during his culinary training in Paris. Jefferson brought macaroni back from Europe to Monticello, but it was Hemings who cooked it.
> Boil as much macaroni as will fill your dish, in milk and water, till quite tender; drain it on a sieve, sprinkle a little salt over it, put a layer in your dish, then cheese and butter as in the polenta, and bake it in the same manner.
Another source provides a more detailed version of the recipe:
> 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large pot, bring the milk and water to a boil. Add the macaroni, stir well, and return to a boil; then reduce the heat and cook the pasta until tender (about 8 minutes), stirring occasionally.
> 2. Drain the pasta but reserve about 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Add the salt to the pasta and blend well.
> 3. Butter a 1½-quart casserole dish. Place one-third of the macaroni in the dish and top with one-third of the butter pieces and one-third of the cheese. Pour one-third of the reserved cooking liquid over the top.
> 4. Repeat with two more layers of macaroni topped with butter and cheese, drizzling cooking liquid over each layer.
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Frequently asked questions
No, but he did popularise it.
It is unclear who invented the dish, but it was likely already a popular dish in France by the time Jefferson travelled there in 1784.
It is unlikely that Thomas Jefferson cooked the dish himself. It is believed that his enslaved chef, James Hemings, was the one who developed the recipe.
Yes, Thomas Jefferson was a great lover of carbs and Italian food. He frequently requested the dish and even served it at a state dinner in 1802.
A recipe for macaroni and cheese in Jefferson's own handwriting survives, although it was likely dictated to him by James Hemings. The recipe includes eggs, yolks, whites, milk, flour, and salt.
