Patrick Oconnell
Cheese is not a staple food in China, nor has it ever been part of traditional Chinese cuisine. There are several reasons for this, including the fact that cows were traditionally used for work rather than milk, and that many Chinese people are lactose intolerant. However, in recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles, some Chinese people have started to incorporate dairy into their diets, and China is now the world's biggest importer of dairy products. Cheese sales in China are expected to grow by $4 billion in the next year, according to Mintel.
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What You'll Learn
Lactose intolerance
The absence of cheese in Chinese cuisine is often attributed to lactose intolerance, as many Chinese people are physically intolerant of lactose. This is due to a deficiency of the lactase enzyme, which is responsible for breaking down and digesting lactose, a sugar found in milk and dairy products. Lactose intolerance causes symptoms such as abdominal pain, bloating, diarrhea, flatulence, and nausea, which can be uncomfortable but are usually harmless. The condition is more prevalent in certain ethnic groups, including East Asian, African, Mexican, and Native American populations.
Historically, dairy products were associated with nomadic people on the fringes of China, who were regarded as barbarians. The Han Chinese avoided consuming dairy, and this cultural aversion, combined with lactose intolerance, may have contributed to the lack of cheese in traditional Chinese cuisine. However, in recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles, some Chinese parents have started introducing milk into their children's diets, although cheese is still considered beyond the pale by many.
While the exact prevalence of lactose intolerance in the Chinese population is unknown, it is likely that a significant proportion of individuals are lactose intolerant to some degree. This may contribute to the cultural aversion to cheese and dairy products in China, although other factors such as historical associations and the availability of dairy cows may also play a role.
In summary, lactose intolerance is a common condition, particularly among individuals of East Asian descent, and it has likely influenced the culinary traditions of China, resulting in a limited presence of cheese in traditional Chinese cuisine. However, cultural exchange and evolving dietary habits may lead to a gradual shift in cheese consumption patterns in China.
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Lack of dairy cows
China has seen a significant increase in its dairy cattle population over the past few decades. In 1951, the Autonomous Region of Ningxia Hui had only two dairy cows, while in 1991, their numbers had increased to 21,000. Similarly, the dairy cows in Heilongjiang Province increased from 168,000 in 1983 to 618,000 in 1991. The total dairy cattle population in Fujian Province is 15,000. The number of dairy cows in China has increased from 5.7 million in 2001 to 7.1 million in 2023, with the majority of milk production occurring in the north and northeast of the country.
Despite this growth, China still faces a challenge in meeting the demand for dairy products. This is partly due to the lack of dairy cows in certain regions, as well as the high costs and the legacy of the 2008 adulteration scandal, which killed several children and hospitalized thousands. This scandal has limited China's export opportunities and even led many Chinese consumers to prefer foreign dairy brands, despite government efforts to boost confidence in domestic dairy products.
The Chinese government has been actively encouraging and supporting dairy production since 1979, particularly private initiatives in the industry. This support has resulted in the emergence of many dairy farmers and a steady increase in dairy production. In recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles, Chinese parents have started feeding milk to their children, contributing to soaring worldwide milk prices.
However, cheese is still not a popular food in China and is generally regarded as beyond the pale. This may be due to the historical association of dairy products with nomadic people who lived on the fringes of China and were regarded as barbarians. Additionally, many Chinese people are lactose intolerant, which further reduces the demand for dairy products like cheese.
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Cows as work tools
The idea of "cows as work tools" may evoke curiosity, but it is important to clarify that this concept is not literal. The phrase "cow tools" gained prominence through a comic by Gary Larson titled "Cow Tools," published in 1982 as part of his "Far Side" series. The comic featured a drawing of a cow examining crude and poorly built tools, sparking confusion and debate among readers. Larson eventually explained that the comic was intended as a whimsical portrayal of cows creating tools, which would likely be simple and unsophisticated.
Shifting our focus to the topic of cheese in Chinese culture, it is observed that cheese is not a prominent part of traditional Chinese cuisine. Historical accounts associate dairy products with nomadic people on the fringes of China, who were often viewed with suspicion by the Han Chinese. Additionally, lactose intolerance is prevalent among the Chinese population, further contributing to the limited inclusion of cheese in their dietary traditions.
However, it is worth noting that modern influences have led to some changes in Chinese culinary preferences. While cheese is still generally considered beyond the pale, there are exceptions, especially in urban areas. For example, some sophisticated Shanghainese individuals might indulge in cheeses like Stilton, mirroring how sophisticated Londoners consume tripe and chitterlings.
Furthermore, it is interesting to explore the cultural significance of "stinky" foods in China. Shaoxing, a city in Zhejiang province, is renowned for its rice wines and "stinking and fermented" (chou mei) delicacies. These odorous dishes, such as stinking beancurd and "fermented thousand layers," have developed a unique culinary niche within Chinese cuisine, showcasing a contrast between the Chinese appreciation for strong-smelling foods and their reluctance toward cheese.
In conclusion, while the phrase "cow tools" originated from a whimsical comic, the topic of cheese in Chinese culture reveals a blend of historical associations, dietary restrictions, and evolving culinary preferences. Cows themselves do use tools for preening, using inanimate objects like trees and fence posts to groom areas they can't reach. The relationship between cheese and Chinese culture is complex and influenced by various factors, resulting in a limited presence of cheese in traditional Chinese cuisine.
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Western influence
Cheese has never been a part of traditional Chinese cuisine, and it is still not consumed in large quantities. The current annual per capita consumption of cheese in China is only 0.1 kilogram, far below that of other countries. However, there is a growing interest in cheese among some Chinese people, driven in part by Western influence.
Historically, dairy products in China were associated with nomadic people living on the fringes of the country, who were often regarded as outsiders or barbarians. Han Chinese, with some exceptions, avoided consuming dairy altogether, and many were lactose intolerant. This cultural aversion to dairy, coupled with the traditional use of cows as work animals rather than milk producers, contributed to the lack of cheese in Chinese cuisine.
In recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles, some Chinese parents have started giving milk to their children, contributing to soaring worldwide milk prices. While cheese is still generally considered beyond the pale, a small number of sophisticated Shanghainese might consume it, just as sophisticated Londoners eat tripe and chitterlings. The kind of cheese that appeals to Chinese tastes tends to be very pungent or highly processed, similar to the cheese found in American fast-food chains.
The influence of Western culinary traditions has introduced cheese to Chinese culture, but it remains a foreign novelty and is not a viable component of local tastes and culture. However, the market for cheese in China is growing. China is now the world's biggest importer of dairy products, with a younger generation eager to try cheeses from overseas. Cheese sales in China are expected to grow, and the number of Chinese cheese eaters has been steadily increasing, with further rises anticipated annually. This shift in dietary habits has had environmental impacts, particularly in New Zealand, which has seen a massive rise in its dairy herd to meet Chinese demand.
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Dairy consumption guidelines
Dairy consumption is recommended by most countries, with general guidelines suggesting 2 to 3 servings per day. These guidelines are primarily based on meeting nutrient requirements, as dairy products are a rich source of many minerals, vitamins, and high-quality protein. Dairy consumption is also a marker of dietary quality, with milk intake in particular being associated with a reduced risk of type 2 diabetes. Dairy is also essential for bone health, especially in children and adolescents, as it provides nutrients such as calcium, vitamin D, and potassium.
However, it is important to note that these recommendations may not apply universally, as evidenced by the lack of cheese in traditional Asian cuisines. In China, for example, dairy products were historically associated with nomadic people considered barbarians by the Han Chinese. Additionally, many Chinese people are lactose intolerant, and the country does not have a large number of dairy cows, making dairy products less accessible.
Today, influenced by Western lifestyles, some Chinese parents have started giving milk to their children, contributing to rising global milk prices. However, cheese is still considered unusual in China, with many people having never tasted it. While some sophisticated Shanghainese might consume European cheeses like Stilton, it is not a common practice.
Thus, while dairy consumption guidelines universally emphasize the health benefits of dairy products, cultural and regional factors, such as those seen in China, may influence the extent to which these guidelines are followed or applicable.
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Frequently asked questions
Cheese is not a part of traditional Chinese cuisine, and it is still not a common food in China. However, in recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles, some Chinese people have started to incorporate cheese into their diets.
There are several reasons why cheese is not a part of traditional Chinese cuisine. One reason is that many Chinese people are lactose intolerant. Another reason is that cows were traditionally used as work animals in China, and villages often did not have many animal resources, so they were not used for milk or cheese production. Additionally, in Chinese culture, dairy products were historically associated with nomadic tribes living on the fringes of society, who were generally viewed as outsiders or barbarians.
While cheese is not a traditional ingredient in Chinese cuisine, there are some modern Chinese dishes that incorporate cheese, such as cheese wontons. Additionally, influenced by Western culinary influences, some Chinese people have started to experiment with cheese and create fusion dishes that combine Chinese and Western ingredients.
