Andy Montoya
The process of aging cheese is a complex one, and it is the final step in making cheese at home. Not all cheese needs to be aged, but for those that do, the aging process is what gives them their distinct, bitter taste. Aging cheese occurs when bacterial culture is added to milk, creating lactic acid and making the milk sour. As the cheese ages, a series of chemical reactions occur, resulting in flavour development and texture changes. The science of cheese aging has sparked debates about whether wooden shelves for aging pose a threat to human health, with the FDA closing a queso fresco factory in 2014 after its products sickened eight people, one of whom died.
Characteristics of aging cheese:
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Role of bacteria | Bacteria breaks down proteins and fats, transforming the cheese's structure, flavour, and texture. |
| Flavour | Aging allows cheese to develop its full flavour. The longer it ages, the more intense the flavour. |
| Texture | Aging changes the texture of the cheese, making it softer or harder, depending on the type of cheese. |
| Aroma | Aging develops the aroma of the cheese. |
| Moisture content | As cheese ages, it loses moisture content. |
| Oxygen exposure | Controlled oxygen exposure facilitates the development of unique flavours and aromas. |
| Temperature | Cheese is typically aged at 50 to 55°F (12 to 15°C). Some cheeses require lower temperatures of approximately 40 to 45°F (4 to 7°C). |
| Time | The amount of time required to age cheese varies depending on the type and desired flavour or texture. Hard cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano may age for several years. |
| Wrapping | As cheese ages, the wrap absorbs moisture, which supplies needed moisture for the ripening cheese. |
| Mold | Mold contributes to the unique flavours and aromas of the cheese. If mold develops throughout the cheese and not just on the surface, it was not properly prepared for aging. |
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What You'll Learn
Bacterial cultures and flavour
The flavour of cheese is influenced by a variety of factors, including the type of milk used, the bacteria present, and the length of ageing. The process of ageing cheese involves a series of chemical reactions that result in flavour development and texture changes.
The bacteria in cheese play a crucial role in flavour development. There are six main species of cheese culture, with thousands of sub-strains and variations that produce different flavours in the final product. These bacteria interact with each other and the environment to create complex flavour profiles.
One of the key bacteria in cheese flavour formation is Lactococcus, which includes the strains Lactococcus lactis and Lactococcus cremoris. Lactococcus lactis is often found in Gouda cheese and plays a role in eye formation by converting citric acid into carbon dioxide and diacetyl (buttery flavour). Lactococcus cremoris contributes to the flavour profile and controls off-flavours by limiting the formation of diacetyl and acetoin.
Another important bacterium is Streptococcus thermophilus, which is commonly used in commercial starter cultures. This bacterium boosts the growth of Lactococcus and shapes the flavour compound profile. It also interacts with Lactococcus lactis strains to influence the flavour of the cheese.
Other bacteria that contribute to cheese flavour include Brevibacterium linens, Geotrichum candidum, and Penicillium. These bacteria are responsible for unique aromas, textures, and flavours. For example, Penicillium camemberti is known for its characteristic white mould on cheeses like Camembert and Brie, and its metabolism produces aromas associated with white mould cheeses, such as mushroom and ammonia.
As cheese ages, the number of Non-Starter Lactic Acid Bacteria (NSLAB) increases while starter cultures die off. NSLAB are naturally present in milk or picked up during cheesemaking, and they contribute to flavour development. One example is Lactobacillus casei ssp. casei.
The ageing process also involves controlled oxygen exposure, which interacts with surface bacteria and moulds to create unique flavours and aromas. Different types of cheese require varying ageing conditions in terms of temperature, humidity, and time. For instance, fresh cheeses like mozzarella are typically consumed soon after production, while hard cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano may age for several years, resulting in complex flavours and textures.
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Temperature and humidity
The temperature and humidity requirements vary for different types of cheese. For example, cheeses of the Cheddar family age best at low temperatures of 4°C to 8°C and relative humidity lower than 80%. On the other hand, semi-hard cheeses like Tilsiter or Havarti require higher temperatures of 14°C to 16°C and a relative humidity of about 90% during the initial fermentation stage.
Most cheeses age best at temperatures between 10°C to 15°C, which is slightly warmer than a typical refrigerator but cooler than room temperature. Consistency is critical, and fluctuations in temperature can negatively impact the aging process. The ideal humidity for most cheeses is high, ranging from 80% to 95% relative humidity. However, it is important to ensure that humidity levels do not get too high, as this can promote unwanted mould growth.
Creating a suitable environment for aging cheese is essential. Traditionally, caves have been used for centuries due to their cool and constant humidity. Modern alternatives include a cellar, a refrigerator, or even a small, insulated room specifically designed for cheese aging. A hygrometer can be used to monitor humidity levels, and a thermometer is essential for temperature control.
To maintain the desired humidity, various techniques can be employed. For instance, placing cheese in a plastic box with a lid helps regulate humidity. Adding a damp sponge or paper towel inside the container can increase humidity, but it is crucial to ensure that the cheese itself does not become too damp. Additionally, a shallow pan of water with a sterilized sponge or butter muslin can be used to help moisture evaporate and increase humidity.
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Cheese preparation
The next step is to warm the milk. You can obtain milk that is still warm from the udder or slowly warm it on a stovetop. Once the milk is warmed, you can begin the process of acidification, which involves adding an acid such as vinegar or citric acid to achieve the correct acidity. This process leads to the creation of cheeses such as ricotta and mascarpone.
After acidification, the milk will start to curdle, and you can then cut the curd into smaller cubes or chunks using a cheese harp, knife, or whisk. The size of the curd pieces will determine the moisture content of your final cheese, with smaller pieces resulting in a drier and more ageable cheese. You will then stir the curds, and optionally cook them, for several minutes or up to an hour, depending on your recipe. During this phase, acid continues to develop inside the curd, and stirring helps to dry them out.
The next step is to separate the curds from the whey. You can do this by dumping the contents into a colander and letting the curds settle to the bottom before pressing them together. Work quickly to conserve heat and encourage the curds to form a smooth wheel. Once the curds and whey are separated, you can add salt to the curds or move them into their final forms or baskets and press them into a wheel before salting.
At this point, you can choose to brine your cheese by soaking it in a salt brine overnight. This step adds flavor, reduces acidity, and helps prevent bacteria. After brining, you can wipe off the cheese and let it air dry for a day or two. You can then apply cheese wax, which provides a protective layer against mold and bacteria while helping the cheese retain moisture. Dunk the cheese into melted wax several times to create a thick layer.
Finally, you can age your cheese. Place the waxed cheese wheel in an area with a temperature of 52-56°F (11-13°C) and a humidity of 75-85%. Cool, damp basements with limited light are ideal for this purpose. The aging process can take 4-6 weeks, during which time the cheese will continue to develop flavor and texture.
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Oxygen exposure
The presence of oxygen creates an environment conducive to the growth of specific strains of surface bacteria and moulds, such as Brevibacterium linens, Geotrichum candidum, and Penicillium. These microorganisms contribute distinct characteristics to the cheese. They break down proteins and fats, transforming the structure, taste, and texture of the cheese. This breakdown of proteins through proteolysis results in the soft, gooey texture characteristic of soft cheeses like Camembert and Brie.
Additionally, oxygen exposure impacts the texture of the cheese. As cheese ages, it undergoes a natural decrease in moisture content. This evaporation process concentrates flavours and transforms the texture, contributing to the development of a unique character for each cheese variety. The controlled oxygen exposure influences the rate of evaporation and, consequently, the final texture of the cheese.
It is important to note that while oxygen exposure is necessary for the development of certain flavours and textures, excessive exposure can lead to undesirable outcomes. Proper aging involves controlling factors such as oxygen levels, temperature, and humidity to create the ideal environment for the cheese to reach its full potential. This delicate balance of factors transforms fresh curd into the complex and distinctive flavours that are cherished by cheese connoisseurs worldwide.
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Cheese texture and moisture
The texture and moisture of cheese are critical factors in the cheese-making process and can significantly impact the final quality and characteristics of the aged cheese. Proper humidity control is essential for achieving the desired texture and flavour profile. High humidity (80-95%) is usually required for most cheeses during aging. Lower humidity can cause the cheese to dry out prematurely, resulting in excessive drying and cracking, which affects the cheese's structural integrity.
On the other hand, excess moisture in cheese can also cause several problems. It increases the risk of unwanted bacterial growth, leading to texture issues such as overly soft or mushy textures, and flavour dilution, resulting in bland or less concentrated flavours. Therefore, regular monitoring and adjustment of moisture and humidity levels are essential for successful cheese aging. Home cheese makers can achieve success by creating a dedicated aging space, such as a converted mini-fridge or wine cooler equipped with a temperature and humidity controller.
The rind of a cheese also plays a significant role in its aging process. Different types of rinds can affect how a cheese ages and develops flavour. A natural rind, for example, forms as the cheese surface dries out, allowing for gradual moisture loss. In contrast, a washed rind is regularly washed with brine or alcohol, promoting specific bacterial growth. A bloomy rind, such as that found on Brie or Camembert, is covered with a white mould that contributes to flavour and texture. Waxed or sealed rinds protect the cheese and slow down the aging process.
The type of cheese also determines its optimal aging time. Hard cheeses with low moisture content, such as Cheddar and Parmesan, can be aged longer than soft cheeses with high moisture content, such as Brie or Camembert. The aging process allows for more complex flavour development and often commands higher prices in the market.
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Frequently asked questions
To age cheese, you need to maintain a consistent temperature and humidity in the location where the cheese is being aged. This space is often referred to as a cheese cave. A hygrometer can be used to measure the humidity. You can also age cheese in a regular refrigerator, but the aging process will be slower.
If your cheese is puffy and filled with holes, it may be contaminated by a late gas producer such as butyric bacteria. This can develop enough gas to split the cheese in half. Unfortunately, the contaminated cheese must be discarded.
Wooden shelves used to age cheese have been a topic of debate, with some arguing that they pose a health risk by harbouring dangerous bacteria. The FDA has stated that wooden shelves are not "adequately cleanable". However, artisanal cheesemakers argue that wooden shelves give the cheese flavour and help regulate moisture.
To prevent bacteria from growing on cheese, it is important to properly prepare the cheese for aging. This includes maintaining a clean environment and following recipe guidelines. Additionally, using a healthy starter culture can prevent other bacteria from growing during the aging process.
