Frederic Melton
India has a complex history with dairy, influenced by cultural and religious ideologies, foreign invasions, and colonisation. Despite being the world's largest milk producer, India has never had a robust cheese industry. However, that is changing, with a growing number of artisanal cheesemakers creating classic and innovative varieties. The history of cheese in India dates back to ancient times, with mentions in Vedic texts. Traditional Indian cheeses include paneer, kalari, chhurpi, and bandel.
How Cheese is Made in India
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| History | India has a complex history with dairy due to cultural and religious ideologies, foreign influences, and colonization. |
| Religious Ideology | According to ancient Hindu scriptures, milk is considered pure and holy; hence, the curdling of milk is believed to be a bad omen. Thus, any products made from curdled milk are considered impure and unworthy of offering to the gods. |
| Climate | India's tropical climate and historical lack of refrigeration made it impractical to preserve milk and develop cheese. |
| Types of Indian Cheese | Bandel, Kalari, Chhurpi, Paneer, Kalimpong, and Gouda |
| Cheese Consumption in India | Indian food typically does not include cheese, except for paneer. Cheese is not usually eaten on its own but rather as an ingredient in a meal. |
| Cheese Awards | In 2021, an Indian contender, Eleftheria Cheese, won a silver medal at the World Cheese Awards for its Brunost cheese. |
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What You'll Learn
History of cheese-making in India
India is the world's largest producer of milk and milk products, yet the country does not have a wide variety of cheeses like some European countries. This is partly due to the hot, tropical climate, which makes it difficult to store cheese. In addition, the country has a long history of preserving butter in a very sophisticated way, but did not develop a cheese culture.
Traditionally, the only cheese produced in India was paneer, which is a non-melting "farmer's cheese" made by curdling heated milk with lemon juice or another acidic liquid. The curds are then drained to remove excess liquid. Paneer is very popular in India and is used in both sweet and savoury dishes.
In the early 1960s, the company Amul made the first attempt at an Indian processed cheese. They created a standardised Indian variety of Cheddar, made from buffalo milk. Amul's cheese was easy to melt and store, and it soon dominated the market. Today, Amul is still the largest producer of cheese in India, and the cheese is mostly marketed and sold for domestic consumption. However, they also export their Malai Paneer to the Middle East and North America.
In recent years, there has been a growing demand for European-style cheeses in India, and independent cheesemakers and cheese shops offering these products are popping up all over the country. Cheesemakers like Prateeksh Mehra and Mansi Jasani have been inspired by their experiences with cheese and are using local resources to create European-style cheeses. For example, Mehra's company, The Spotted Cow Fromagerie, makes a cheese called "Bombie", which is similar to Brie. Jasani's company, The Cheese Collective, uses goat's milk from Kanataka to create plain, herbed, and fruity cheeses.
There has also been a rise in artisanal cheesemakers in India, who are creating both classic and innovative cheeses. For example, Chennai's The Farm produces French-originated velvety white 1/277 Bloomy Rind, Mozzarella di Bufala, and exclusive experimental cheeses like Ciottolo, which is naturally aged balls of mozzarella. Darima Farms in Uttarakhand produces cheese using organic milk and herbs, including classics like cheddar, parmesan, and gouda, as well as innovative versions like Alpine Gruyere.
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Religious and cultural influences on cheese-making
India has a complex history with dairy, with cultural and religious ideologies, as well as foreign influences and colonisation, all playing a role. According to ancient Hindu scriptures, the Vedas, milk is considered pure and holy. As a result, the curdling of milk, an essential step in cheese production, is seen as a bad omen, and any products made from curdled milk are thought to be impure and unworthy of offering to the gods. This has been a significant impediment to the development of cheesemaking in India. The tropical climate and historical lack of refrigeration have also played a role.
However, there is evidence of dairy processing, including cheesemaking, in ancient India. The introduction of cheese is often attributed to foreign rulers and influences, particularly during the Mughal period (16th to 18th centuries) when paneer, a fresh cheese, gained popularity. Paneer is the only native Indian cheese and is made by curdling heated milk with lemon juice or another acidic liquid, then draining the curds to remove excess liquid. It does not melt due to its high acidity, which alters its chemical composition. Paneer is a popular choice for both sweet and savoury dishes and is commonly used in dishes such as paneer tikka, a vegetarian alternative to chicken tikka.
During British colonisation, cheese as we know it today was introduced, and cheesemaking techniques were adapted to suit Indian conditions. However, cheese consumption in India remained relatively low compared to other countries, and it was not a staple of the adult diet. Most dairy consumption in India happened in the form of yoghurt.
In recent years, the cheese culture in India has been expanding, with cheese finding its way into Indian street food and fast food. The popularity of cheese in these contexts is influenced by the pizza sector, where cheese, particularly mozzarella, is a key ingredient. The demand for cheese has also been driven by the Indian preference for dairy-rich tastes and the perception that cheese enhances flavour and provides creaminess.
Some artisanal cheese makers in India are creating non-dairy cheese alternatives with unique flavours, meeting evolving consumer demands. However, cheese consumption in India is still largely an urban phenomenon, and it faces challenges in reaching global consumption due to the high cost of shipment and lack of cold chains in the country.
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Traditional Indian cheeses
Indian cuisine has a rich history of cheese-making, with some sources claiming that it dates back to the days of the Indus Valley Civilization (3300-1300 BCE). While the tradition of cheese-making in India is widely believed to have been introduced by the Portuguese in the 17th century, it has since evolved into a variety of unique and delicious Indian cheeses.
Paneer, also known as Indian cottage cheese, is the most common type of cheese used in traditional Indian cuisines. It is made with just two ingredients: milk (cow, buffalo, or a mix of both) and an acidic ingredient like lemon juice or vinegar. The milk is boiled and the acidic ingredient is stirred into it, causing the milk to curdle and separate into solids and whey. The solids are then strained, wrapped in a cloth, and hung to remove excess moisture before being pressed with a heavy object to set. Paneer has a soft yet firm, non-melting texture and a mild flavour, making it a versatile ingredient in Indian dishes. It is used in both savoury and sweet dishes, such as Palak Paneer (spinach curry) and Shahi Paneer (a classic curry).
Chhena or chenna, another type of Indian cheese, is widely used in sweet and savoury dishes. It is made similarly to paneer but is not pressed, resulting in a moist, loose texture. Iconic Bengali desserts like Rasgulla and Sandesh are made using chhena. Beyond sweets, chhena can be crumbled over curries or used in stuffed flatbreads, blending seamlessly with other flavours while maintaining its distinct texture.
Chhurpi, native to the Himalayan region, is a traditional Indian cheese made from the milk of cows, yaks, or a chauri (a cross between a male yak and a female cow). It is known for its dense texture, strong flavour, and long shelf life. Chhurpi is commonly used in local dishes, adding a tangy and slightly nutty flavour to soups, stews, or snacks.
Kalari, also known as the "Mozzarella of Kashmir," is a traditional Indian cheese handcrafted by the Gujjars and Bakarwal herder communities in Jammu and Kashmir. It is made from the milk of cows, buffaloes, sheep, or goats and is curdled and then beaten vigorously to create a stretchy, mozzarella-like texture. Kalari is often consumed by deep-frying and seasoning with salt and chilli powder.
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Modern artisanal cheesemakers in India
India has a complex history with dairy, with cultural and religious mythologies, colonisation, and foreign trade all playing a role. The country's relationship with dairy goes back centuries, and while it is the world's largest producer of milk, it has never had a robust cheese industry. However, this is changing, thanks to a new generation of modern artisanal cheesemakers who are pushing boundaries and helping Indians rediscover traditional dairy practices.
One of the oldest cheesemaking companies in India, Caroselle Dairy Products Pvt. Ltd., is an artisanal cheese farm in Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu. Founded in 1991 by an engineer-turned-cheesemaker, Mukund Naidu, and a New Zealander, David Hogg, Caroselle primarily supplies European-style artisanal cheeses to hotels and restaurants in the south. Using traditional European methods and local microbial vegetarian rennet, Caroselle produces hygienic, clean, and healthy cheeses from milk sourced from its own cows. The farm ages its cheeses in specialised European-style cellars, and its products can be found at farmers' markets and events in Tamil Nadu.
Another notable artisanal cheese producer in India is Käse, an award-winning fromagerie established in 2016. Käse makes over 40 varieties of fresh and aged cheese that are natural and preservative-free, using milk sourced directly from ethical dairy farmers. The company is committed to building a mindful brand and playing a pivotal role in the growing Indian artisan cheese segment. Käse was conceptualised by Namrata Sundaresan after she took a cheesemaking course at the Acres Wild cheese farm in Conoor. The company focuses on making cheese that is fresh, affordable, healthy, and clean, and it employs individuals with different abilities.
ABC Farms, a 27-acre farm in Pune and Goa, offers a wide range of over 70 different varieties of organic boutique cheese, produced from fresh milk using fine farm ingredients. In addition to cheese production, ABC Farms also grows interesting crops such as black rice and Aztec corn.
Eleftheria, a Mumbai-based fromagerie, has put India on the world cheese map by winning a Super Gold medal at the 2021 World Cheese Awards in Norway for its Brunost, a Norwegian-style whey cheese with a toffee hue and velvety finish.
These modern artisanal cheesemakers in India are not only producing high-quality, delicious cheeses but also educating consumers about the fundamentals of cheesemaking and helping to make cheese platters popular at special occasions. They are pushing boundaries, shaping palates, and celebrating the country's traditional dairy practices with locally made cheese.
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Challenges of cheese-making in a tropical climate
India, the world's largest milk producer, has never had a robust cheese industry. This is partly due to the challenges of cheesemaking in its tropical climate. A tropical climate is characterised by high temperatures and humidity, which can make it difficult to produce and store cheese.
Firstly, the warm and humid conditions can cause mould and fungi to grow on cheese, leading to spoilage. This is especially true in the case of aged cheeses, which require specific temperature and humidity conditions to develop their characteristic flavours and textures. In the absence of refrigeration or suitable caves for ageing, it can be challenging to control the environment and prevent spoilage.
Secondly, milk production is typically highest during the summer months, resulting in an excess of milk that needs to be preserved or transformed into other dairy products. Without proper ageing facilities, cheesemakers in tropical climates may have to resort to making fresh cheeses that do not require controlled ageing, such as mozzarella or paneer. These fresh cheeses have a shorter shelf life and may not be suitable for long-term storage or preservation.
Additionally, the cultural and religious beliefs in India have played a role in the limited development of cheesemaking. According to ancient Hindu scriptures, curdling milk is considered a bad omen, and any subsequent products made from curdled milk are deemed impure. This belief, coupled with the negative connotations around souring milk in a hot climate, further discouraged the practice of cheesemaking.
Despite these challenges, there has been a growing interest in artisanal cheesemaking in India, with cheesemakers educating consumers about their craft and increasing representation in international cheese competitions. However, the path to global consumption for these cheesemakers is not without its difficulties, and climate remains a significant factor influencing the production and consumption patterns of cheese in India.
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Frequently asked questions
Some Indian cheeses include paneer, chhena, Bandel, Kalari, and chhurpi.
Indian cheese is typically made from cow's or yak's milk.
Indian cheese is made by heating milk and curdling it with a splitting agent, such as lemon juice. The mixture is then drained to create a crumbly texture.
India's tropical climate, lack of refrigeration in earlier times, and cultural and religious beliefs surrounding the curdling of milk have impeded the development of cheesemaking.
