Patrick Oconnell
Emmentaler, commonly known as Swiss cheese, is a medium-hard cheese that originated in Emmental, Switzerland. It is known for its distinctive large holes, nutty flavour, and versatility in cooking. The cheese gets its holes as it matures; during the maturation process, propionic acid bacteria ferment lactic acid, forming carbon dioxide gas that collects at various spots in the curds. The gas attaches to small hay particles in the cheese, creating the holes that characterise this famous Swiss export.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Hole formation | Carbon dioxide gas is trapped by the rind at various spots in the curds as the wheel of cheese matures |
| Hole size | Larger holes are due to higher storage temperatures of 19-24°C |
| Hole cause | Propionic acid bacteria are mixed in with the milk, which ferment lactic acid, forming carbonic acid gas that attaches to small hay particles in the cheese |
| Hole development | Holes reach their final size after 6-8 weeks |
| Maturation | Emmentaler matures for at least 120 days, with cheese considered mild at 4 months, mature at 8 months, and fully mature after 12 months |
| Standardization | In the 19th century, technological and scientific advances led to the standardization of hole size and the deliberate creation of holes |
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What You'll Learn
The role of propionic acid bacteria
During the maturation process, these bacteria ferment lactic acid, producing carbon dioxide gas and forming carbonic acid. The carbon dioxide gas becomes trapped in the cheese curds, creating the holes that Emmentaler is famous for. The gas attaches itself to small hay particles in the cheese, which makes it harder for the gas to escape. The high storage temperature of 19 to 24 degrees Celsius also contributes to the size of the holes, as it is relatively warm.
The specific type of propionic acid bacteria responsible for eye formation is Propionibacterium freudenreichii. This bacteria plays a decisive role in the development of the holes, and its presence is essential for the unique characteristics of Emmentaler cheese.
The maturation process for Emmentaler cheese typically lasts for at least 120 days. During this time, the cheese wheels are stored in a fermentation cellar, where the temperature range of 19 to 24 degrees Celsius is optimal for propionic acid fermentation. This temperature range is higher than that of most other cheeses, and it is this warmer temperature that contributes to the larger size of the holes in Emmentaler.
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Carbon dioxide gas formation
The holes in Emmentaler cheese are the result of carbon dioxide gas formation during the maturation process. This gas is produced through propionic acid fermentation, which occurs when the cheese is stored at a temperature of 19-24°C. During this process, propionic acid bacteria ferment lactic acid, generating carbon dioxide gas.
The formation of these distinctive holes begins with the addition of propionic acid bacteria during the cheese-making process. Once the cheese wheels are formed and brined, they are sent to maturation rooms, where they are stored at warm temperatures to encourage the formation of the eyes.
The carbon dioxide gas forms at various spots within the curds, creating pockets of gas that become trapped within the cheese. The gas is unable to escape due to the solid rind that forms around the cheese wheel. The size of the holes is influenced by the storage temperature, with higher temperatures resulting in larger holes.
The role of hay particles in carbon dioxide gas formation has also been proposed. According to Agroscope researchers, tiny bits of hay present in the milk or falling into the traditional buckets used during milking can create weaknesses in the curd structure. This provides sites for the gas to accumulate, making it harder for the gas to escape and contributing to the formation of the eyes.
The standardisation of cheese-making processes in the 19th century led to the deliberate creation of these holes, which had previously been a secondary feature. Today, the holes in Emmentaler cheese are a defining characteristic, contributing to its unique taste and texture.
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Hay particles in the milk
The presence of hay particles in the milk influences the development of holes in Emmental cheese through a chemical process. When the milk is transformed into curds and whey during cheese-making, the hay particles can act as nuclei or starting points for the formation of carbon dioxide gas pockets. This occurs because the bacteria used in Emmental cheese production, such as Propionibacterium freudenreichii, produce carbon dioxide as a byproduct of fermentation.
The hay particles provide a physical structure for the carbon dioxide gas bubbles to accumulate and grow. As the bacteria continue to produce carbon dioxide, the gas becomes trapped within the cheese matrix, forming larger pockets or holes. The size and distribution of these holes depend on factors such as the amount and size of hay particles present, as well as the conditions during cheese ripening.
The role of hay particles in hole formation is unique to Emmental cheese and contributes to its distinctive appearance. In fact, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH) in Zurich, Switzerland, has confirmed through experiments that the presence of hay in the milk is indeed a crucial factor in the development of holes in Emmental cheese. By controlling the amount of hay particles in the milk, cheese makers can influence the size and number of holes in the final product.
To recreate the traditional method of introducing hay particles into the milk, modern cheese makers may use specialized filters or membranes that allow a controlled amount of hay particles to pass through, ensuring consistent hole formation in Emmental cheese production. This attention to detail showcases the delicate balance between art and science in the craft of cheesemaking.
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Standardisation and scale of production
The standardisation and scale of production of Emmentaler cheese have evolved over the centuries, with the cheese now being produced and sold on a large scale. This Swiss cheese, named after its place of origin, has been made in the Emme river valley for centuries, with a written record of its existence dating back to 1557.
The production of Emmentaler cheese has undergone standardisation due to technological and scientific advancements. Initially, the holes in the cheese were a secondary feature that varied with each batch. However, with standardisation, these holes are now deliberately created. The standardisation process involves specific steps and ingredients. Only fresh, unpasteurised milk from grass or hay-fed cows is used, and it must be processed within 24 hours of milking. The milk is heated to 32 degrees Celsius, and lactic acid bacterial cultures are added to develop the cheese's aroma. Propionic acid bacteria, which play a crucial role in hole formation, are also mixed in. Rennet is then added to solidify and coagulate the milk, creating curds and whey. The curds are cut into small pieces, heated again, and then filled into cheese moulds, while the whey is drained.
The scale of production of Emmentaler cheese has also increased significantly. In the past, enormous cheese wheels weighing up to 120 kilograms were turned by hand, but today, most cheesemakers use turning machines or fully automated systems. The cheese is then placed in a fermentation cellar to mature for at least 120 days. During this time, propionic acid bacteria ferment lactic acid, forming carbonic acid gas that gets trapped, resulting in the formation of the distinctive holes. After this maturation period, the cheese is moved to a cooler cellar to continue ageing.
The increase in milk yields due to agricultural innovations and the growth of international trade in the 19th century contributed to the larger scale of production. Export duties based on the number of wheels, rather than weight, further incentivised larger cheese sizes. Today, Emmentaler is made in around 110 village creameries, and a whole cheese wheel typically weighs 90 kilograms on average.
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Maturation and temperature
Maturation plays a key role in the formation of holes in Emmentaler cheese. After the cheese wheels are formed and brined, they are left to mature naturally for at least 120 days. During this time, they are kept in a fermentation cellar at a temperature of about 19-24°C, which triggers propionic acid fermentation, producing carbon dioxide gas. This gas gets trapped in the cheese, creating the holes that Emmentaler is famous for. The relatively high storage temperature contributes to the larger size of the holes compared to other cheeses.
After six to eight weeks, when the holes reach their final size, the temperature is lowered to halt hole formation and continue maturation. The cheese is moved to a cool cellar at approximately 12°C for the rest of its maturation period. The maturation period for Emmentaler can vary, with some sources stating a minimum of 12 months, while others mention maturation times ranging from 4 to 30 months.
The length of maturation influences the flavour and texture of Emmentaler. After four months, the cheese is considered mild and is sold at this stage. At eight months, it is labelled as "reserve", and by twelve months, it is deemed "extra". The cheese's flavour becomes more pronounced as it ages, taking on more intense, nutty, and spicy notes. The texture also changes, starting as relatively soft and becoming crumbly as it matures.
Temperature plays a critical role not only in hole formation but also in flavour development. The high temperatures applied during the early stages of manufacture and pressing are essential for the cheese's flavour profile. Additionally, the salt content of the brine bath influences the water activity, which in turn affects the biochemical and physical changes that occur during ripening, ultimately shaping the final characteristics of the cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
The holes in Emmental cheese, also known as "eyes", are formed as the wheel of cheese matures. The cheese is placed in a fermentation cellar, where the temperature of about 19-24°C triggers propionic acid fermentation. This produces carbon dioxide gas that collects at various spots in the curds. The gas gets trapped by the rind, which is already solid, causing the holes to form.
The size of the holes in Emmental cheese is due to the relatively high storage temperature of 19 to 24 degrees Celsius. After six to eight weeks, the holes reach their final size.
According to a 2015 study by Agroscope, a Swiss agricultural institute, the holes in Swiss cheese are caused by tiny bits of hay present in the milk. In the past, when cheese was made in barns using open buckets, hay particles would fall into the collected milk. Today, milk for cheese-making is usually extracted using modern methods, which explains why Swiss cheese has fewer or no holes.
