The Art Of Making Ripened Cheese

how is ripened cheese made

Ripened cheese, also known as matured cheese, is a process in cheesemaking that involves a series of complex physical, chemical, and microbiological changes. The ripening process is responsible for the distinct flavour of the cheese and determines its features such as taste, texture, and body. The duration of ripening varies depending on the type of cheese and the desired quality, ranging from a few weeks to several years. Traditionally, cheese was ripened in caves, but today, it is done in controlled environments with specific temperatures and humidity levels. The ripening process can be influenced by various factors, including the type of milk, enzymes, moulds, and bacteria, resulting in hundreds of varieties of cheese worldwide.

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Ripening agents and flavour formation

The ripening process is responsible for the distinct flavour of cheese, and through the modification of ripening agents, determines the features that define many different varieties of cheese, such as taste, texture, and body. The process is characterised by a series of complex physical, chemical, and microbiological changes that incorporate the agents of bacteria and enzymes of the milk, lactic culture, rennet, lipases, added moulds or yeasts, and environmental contaminants.

The ripening time may vary from one month to a year or more, depending on the type of cheese and the desired quality. The speed of the reactions is determined by temperature and humidity conditions in the room, as well as by the moisture content of the cheese. The duration of ripening is also influenced by the type of cheese and the desired quality, ranging from a few weeks to two or more years.

Mould-ripened cheeses, such as Camembert and Brie, ripen faster than hard cheeses, typically in weeks, due to the higher biochemical activity of the fungi used. These cheeses are ripened at a temperature range of 10–15 °C. On the other hand, Cheddar is ripened at a relatively lower temperature range of 6–8 °C. Increasing the ripening temperature can be a simple method to speed up flavour-forming reactions and reduce refrigeration costs. However, attention must be paid to the quality of the milk and hygienic conditions to avoid flavour defects and the growth of pathogens.

The flavour formation in cheese results from the action of different agents involved in the ripening process, primarily enzymes and bacteria. Exogenous enzymes, such as proteinases, peptidases, lipases, and esterases, are added individually or in combination to cheese milk or curd to speed up the ripening process and provide a choice of flavour options. Lipases, for example, are used commercially in cheese varieties known for their piquant flavour, such as Provolone, Caciocavallo, some Blue-veined cheeses, Ras cheese, and Feta made by ultrafiltration. The addition of organic solvents, such as butanol, has also been reported to accelerate bacterial cell activity and flavour formation, but their use poses health concerns due to residual solvents in the cheese.

Furthermore, advancements in biotechnology have led to the development of genetically modified lactic acid bacteria (GM LAB) that can accelerate cheese ripening. These GM LAB have been altered to enhance proteinase specificity, peptidase balance, and lytic properties. However, the addition of exogenous enzymes is restricted to processed cheese blends or the snack food industry, where severe heat treatment will inactivate the enzymes.

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The role of enzymes

Enzymes play a crucial role in the ripening process of cheese, transforming fresh curd into an aged product with distinct flavours, textures, and characteristics. The enzymatic process is considered the most important aspect of cheese ripening, influencing the chemical and microbiological changes that occur.

The enzymes involved in cheese ripening originate from three primary sources: rennet or other enzyme preparations, microorganisms, and the cheese milk itself. Rennet, a complex mixture of enzymes produced in the stomachs of ruminants, is added during the coagulation stage of cheesemaking. It plays a vital role in curd formation and contributes to the development of flavour and texture during ripening.

Microorganisms, including bacteria and moulds, also contribute enzymes to the ripening process. These microorganisms can grow within the cheese, on its surface, or be added directly to the cheese milk. For example, mould-ripened cheeses like Camembert and Brie use moulds such as Penicillium candidum to create a soft, white rind and facilitate ripening from the outside in.

The addition of enzymes during the cheesemaking process has been a focus of research, with exogenous enzymes being relatively inexpensive and offering a range of flavour options. Enzymes like proteinases, peptidases, lipases, and esterases have been added individually or in combination to cheese milk or curd to accelerate ripening. This practice has led to the development of enzyme-modified cheese, a flavouring preparation that provides enhanced cheese flavours in a shorter time frame.

The speed of the ripening reactions is influenced by temperature, humidity, and moisture content. The traditional method of ripening cheese in caves has evolved into the use of special rooms with controlled temperature and humidity conditions, depending on the type of cheese. For example, Camembert and Blue cheese are ripened at 10–15 °C, while Cheddar is typically matured at a lower temperature of 6–8 °C.

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Bacteria and physical conditions

The ripening of cheese is influenced by the interaction of bacteria, enzymes, and physical conditions in the curing room. The speed of the reactions is determined by temperature and humidity conditions in the room, as well as by the moisture content of the cheese. In the past, cellars and caves were used to ripen cheeses, with temperatures ranging from 15 to 20 °C. Today, ripening takes place in special rooms with controlled temperatures and humidity, which vary according to the type of cheese. For example, Camembert, Blue cheese, and surface-ripened cheeses are kept at 10–15 °C, while a relatively low temperature is used for Cheddar (6–8 °C).

The type of bacteria and mould used also play a significant role in the ripening process. Mould-ripened cheeses, such as Camembert and Brie, ripen faster than hard cheeses due to the higher biochemical activity of the fungi used. The addition of moulds like Penicillium candida or Penicillium candidum creates a soft, white rind and helps the cheese ripen from the outside in. Some cheeses are ripened internally, such as Stilton, which has a characteristic blue colour due to the Penicillium roqueforti mould.

The growth of specific bacteria can also create distinctive colours and appearances. For example, the growth of Brevibacterium linens results in an orange coat on certain cheeses. The enzymatic process is crucial for all cheeses, and the addition of enzymes from external sources can influence the ripening process. Exogenous enzymes, such as proteinases and lipases, are added to speed up ripening and provide specific flavour profiles.

The physical conditions of the cheese itself, such as the moisture content, also impact the ripening process. The lactose in most cheeses continues to be fermented into lactic acid and other lactates, or it is hydrolyzed to form different sugars. The interaction of these various factors—bacteria, enzymes, temperature, humidity, and cheese characteristics—results in the distinct flavours, textures, and bodies associated with different varieties of cheese.

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Soft-ripened cheese

To create a soft-ripened cheese, mould (Penicillium candidum, camemberti or glaucum) is added to the milk or sprayed over the wheel of cheese. This mould forms the soft, white rind and aids in the ripening process. Notable examples of soft-ripened cheeses include Brie and Camembert, which are made from cow's milk and use similar production methods. However, they have distinct textures and flavours. Brie has a buttery, mild flavour and a soft yet firmer texture, while Camembert has a stronger, tangier, and earthier flavour and a softer, oozier texture.

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Historical methods of ripening

The process of cheese ripening, also known as cheese maturation or affinage, involves a series of complex physical, chemical, and microbiological changes that give cheese its distinct flavour, texture, and body. While modern cheese ripening is a highly industrialised process, historical methods of ripening cheese were quite different.

In the past, cellars and caves were commonly used to ripen cheeses, as opposed to the current practice of using specialised machinery and biochemistry. The temperature and humidity of these environments would be carefully controlled to facilitate the growth of surface mould and the ripening of cheese by fungi. This method of ripening was particularly effective for soft-ripened cheeses, which have a thin, white or cream-coloured rind that is soft, edible, and sometimes slightly fuzzy. The mould used in soft-ripened cheeses, such as Penicillium candidum, camemberti, or glaucum, is added to the milk or sprayed over the wheel of cheese, causing the cheese to ripen from the outside in.

Some cheeses, like Camembert and Brie, are surface-ripened by moulds, while others, like Stilton, are ripened internally. The surface ripening of certain cheeses, such as Saint-Nectaire, may also be influenced by yeasts, which contribute to flavour and coat texture. Cheesemakers would also allow some cheeses to develop bacterial surface growths, resulting in characteristic colours and appearances. For example, the growth of Brevibacterium linens creates an orange coat on cheeses.

In addition to the use of cellars and caves, historical methods of ripening cheese may have involved brining, where cheese curds are immersed in a saturated salt solution. This process helps to control the rate of proteolysis and prevents the growth of unwanted bacteria. Another technique is the application of mould spores to the cheese, either by spraying a suspension of mould spores in water or by immersing the cheese in a bath containing spores of moulds such as Penicillium candida.

Frequently asked questions

Ripened cheese, also known as matured cheese or affinage, is a process in cheesemaking that brings about chemical changes, transforming fresh curd into a distinctive aged cheese.

Ripened cheese is made by adding mould (Penicillium candidum, camemberti or glaucum) to the milk or spraying it over the wheel of cheese. This creates a soft, white rind and helps the cheese ripen from the outside in. The cheese is then aged in a curing room, with temperature and humidity controlled according to the type of cheese.

The ripening time varies depending on the type of cheese and the desired quality, typically ranging from three weeks to two or more years. For example, Brie is ripened for about a month, while sharp cheddar is ripened for a year or more.

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