Patrick Oconnell
France is renowned for its cheese, with a vast number of varieties produced across the country. French cheeses are made in a multitude of ways, with the most famous cheeses matured over long periods, while some, such as cream cheeses, can be eaten quickly. The French are among the highest consumers of cheese in the world, eating 26.7kg of cheese per person per year. With so many types of cheese available, the French have a strong sense of identity with their local cheeses, which are made by local people using local breeds and skills passed down through generations.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of cheese varieties | 246-600, per former French President Charles de Gaulle in 1962; 258, per a 2024 report; 350 "at least"; 1,200 "other" varieties, per a 2024 report; between 1,000 and 1,600, per some estimates |
| Classification | Grouped into seven or eight broad categories |
| Consumption | 26.7 kg of cheese eaten per person per year |
| Production | Industrial cheese, farm cheese, artisanal cheese, raw-milk cheese |
| Trade | Imported and exported |
| Cheese types | Soft, semi-soft, blue-veined, fresh, goat, cream, washed rind, unripened |
| Examples | Brie, Camembert, Muenster, Livarot, Bel Paese, Roquefort, Fromage frais, Banon, Abondance, Pélardon, Morbier, Chabis, Clochette |
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What You'll Learn
France's most famous cheeses
France is known for its diverse range of cheeses, with estimates suggesting that there are between 1,000 and 1,600 distinct types of French cheese. French cheeses are often classified into eight categories, known as "les huit familles de fromage". The country's cheese production is also classified under four categories based on the PDO/PGI/AOC rules, which dictate the specific production conditions and expertise required for each protected cheese.
One of the most famous French cheeses is Camembert, which originates from Normandy. Camembert is known for its white mould-covered rind, creamy and supple interior, slightly mouldy aroma, and full-bodied, salty taste. Another famous cheese from Normandy is Pont l'Évêque, a strong-smelling, soft, and flavourful cheese that is said to have been a favourite of Napoleon, who enjoyed it with Burgundy wine.
Reblochon, a mountain cheese from the Savoie region, is also renowned for its pungency and strong odour. It has an orange-yellow colour with a velvety rind and an ivory interior, leaving a delicate nutty aftertaste.
In addition to these, there are many other famous French cheeses, including Brie de Meaux, Roquefort, and Comté, which is one of the most popular and richly flavoured cheeses in France.
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French cheese classifications
French cheeses are classified according to their farm, artisanal, or industrial character. A farm cheese (or fromage fermier) is made on a farm by a farmer-producer using milk from their own animals. An artisanal cheese (or fromage artisanal) comes from a small workshop where an artisan transforms milk bought from farmers. Industrial cheese (or fromage industriel) is made in medium or large industrial units.
French cheeses can also be divided into three main families: pressed cheeses, soft cheeses, and blue cheeses. Soft cheeses, such as Camembert, are aged for about a month and have doughy white surfaces. They are available with a natural rind or with the rind washed away to prevent mold. Brie and Muenster are also soft cheeses with a natural rind, while Livarot is a "washed rind" variety. Semi-soft cheese may be made from both pasteurized and raw milk.
Blue cheeses, such as Roquefort, can have a range of textures from semi-soft to hard, and their flavor intensity varies. The blue in blue cheese is derived from a mold called Penicillium roqueforti, which can manifest as veins, pockets, or an external rind.
Pressed cheeses, like most British cheeses, are further classified into cooked and uncooked varieties. Cantal, an uncooked pressed cheese from the Auvergne mountains, is considered similar to an English farmhouse cheddar or Chester. Cooked pressed cheeses are also known as "hard" cheeses, and include varieties such as Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano.
French cheeses are also classified according to their milk type: cow's milk, goat's milk, and sheep's milk (ewe's milk). In addition, there are traditional regional cheeses with an "appellation d'origine protégée" (AOP) label, traditional cheeses without an AOP label, and modern dairy-designed and produced cheeses.
Under the Common Agricultural Policy of the European Union, certain established French cheeses are covered by a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) or Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). Many French cheeses are also classified as Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC), the highest level of protection.
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Industrial vs. artisanal French cheese
France is known for its vast variety of cheese, with estimates ranging from 246 to over 1,200 different types. This diversity is a source of national pride and plays a role in shaping French identity. The French cheese-making tradition has evolved over time, embracing both artisanal methods and industrial production.
Artisanal French Cheese
Artisanal cheese, or "fromage artisanal," is crafted by hand in small batches, often on farms or in small fromageries. The cheesemaking process is carefully supervised by a master cheesemaker, who selects high-quality, locally sourced raw milk from cows, goats, or sheep. This milk is then transformed into cheese through slow and deliberate methods, allowing time for natural aging, which enhances flavour and texture. The result is a product that is unique, complex, and full of character. Artisanal cheeses often have a rustic appearance, with uneven rinds and visible imperfections that showcase the delicate craftsmanship involved in their creation.
Artisanal cheesemakers take pride in their work, utilising traditional techniques and local ingredients to create cheeses with distinct flavours and aromas. The freedom to experiment with different milk sources and aging techniques results in cheeses with unique flavour profiles. For example, Manchego cheese, an artisan favourite, is known for its strong, tangy, and slightly spicy taste. The use of raw milk also preserves indigenous microflora that would otherwise be lost during pasteurisation.
Industrial French Cheese
Industrial cheese, or "fromage industriel," is produced in medium or large industrial units, where cheese is made on an assembly line for mass consumption. This method of production prioritises efficiency and consistency, using pasteurised milk from various sources to meet consumer demand. While industrial cheese may lack the complexity of flavour and aroma found in artisanal cheese, it is more accessible and affordable for a wider audience.
The pasteurisation process in industrial cheese-making ensures consistency and safety, stripping away some of the milk's natural flavours and resulting in a milder, sweeter product. Industrial cheeses often have a uniform appearance, with a smooth texture and consistent colour throughout. This standardised approach to cheesemaking, including the use of computer-controlled operations and mechanical presses, ensures a consistent product that can be quickly produced and distributed.
Both artisanal and industrial French cheeses have their merits. While artisanal cheese stands out for its unique flavours, rustic appearance, and traditional craftsmanship, industrial cheese offers consistency, accessibility, and affordability. Ultimately, the preference for one over the other depends on individual tastes and priorities.
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French cheese and terroir
France is known for its diverse range of cheeses, with the concept of "terroir" playing a crucial role in defining the unique characteristics of cheeses from different regions. Terroir, derived from the French word "terre" meaning land, encompasses the geography, soil, climate, vegetation, water, and cultural traditions that influence the taste and quality of the cheese produced in a specific region.
The Loire Valley, for instance, is renowned for its artisanal goat cheeses, such as the Crottin de Chavignol, a cylindrical cheese with a dense, crumbly texture and a tangy, earthy flavour, and the Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine, which stands out for its unique twist. The region's climate and soil contribute to the distinct flavours and textures of these cheeses, making them beloved choices for cheese connoisseurs.
In the French cheesemaking tradition, terroir is not just about the land but also the cultural practices and traditions passed down through generations. The PDO (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) designation certifies and promotes the unique qualities of the terroir of a particular region. This designation ensures that the cheese is produced, prepared, and processed according to specific standards within a designated geographical area.
The environment in which cows and goats are raised also affects milk production and cheese-making. For example, cows that graze on more fresh grass produce milk with higher levels of beta-carotene, resulting in milk with a richer, more distinct flavour. Additionally, animals raised in cooler climates tend to produce higher-quality milk due to their reduced water intake.
Terroir also extends to the cheesemaking process itself, where environmental factors like bacteria, moulds, and yeast can influence the cheese's acidity, ripening, and flavour development. The traditional technique of "back-slopping", which involves inoculating each batch of cheese with fermented milk, is a perfect illustration of how terroir is integral to the craft of cheesemaking in France.
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French cheese consumption and cultural significance
Cheese is a significant part of French culture and plays a role in the country's identity. With an estimated range of 246 to over 1,000 distinct types of French cheeses, the variety of French cheeses is acknowledged worldwide. The French consume about 26.7 kg (53 pounds) of cheese per person annually, making them one of the highest consumers of cheese globally.
French cheeses are broadly grouped into eight categories, known as "les huit familles de fromage." Each type of cheese is a symbol of Frenchness and regional identity, often handmade and deeply connected to the local culture and geography. The process of making cheese, maturing it, and refining it until it is perfect for consumption is an art form in France. The French take pride in their cheese, and it holds a special place in their society, valued for economic, political, and cultural reasons.
The variety of French cheeses is influenced by the country's varying climates, from salty coastlines to rolling pastures, and the history of the region. For example, the Comte cheese produced in the Alpine region bordering Switzerland and the goat's milk cheese from the Loire Valley, which was introduced by Arabian warriors during the 8th-century invasion. The French cheese culture is also influenced by its neighbouring countries, including Spain, Italy, and Belgium, resulting in a unique and well-defined cheesemaking tradition.
The French typically serve cheese as a separate course during meals, showcasing their appreciation for this dairy product. When serving cheese, the French usually offer at least three different types, representing various milks or cheese families, such as fresh cheese, natural rind cheese, and washed rind cheese. The French also enjoy buying cheese from traditional open-air markets (le marché), where local cheesemakers sell their artisanal products, and specialist cheesemongers (la fromagerie or la fromagerie-crèmerie) in small towns and big cities.
French cheeses have a rich history and cultural significance, with famous figures such as Charlemagne, Napoleon, and Charles de Gaulle known for their appreciation of the country's diverse cheeses. The expression "un fromage par jour de l'année" highlights the idea that there is a different French cheese for every day of the year. The French humanist François Rabelais, who lived in the 15th century, is credited with coining the expression "the Holy Trinity of the Table," consisting of cheese, wine, and bread. This expression further emphasises the importance of cheese in French culture and its association with other traditional food items.
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