Kamil Perry
Swiss cheese is well-known for its distinctive air pockets, which are created by active propionic bacteria during the culturing process. The process of making Swiss cheese is complex and requires a great deal of expertise, dexterity, and precision. It involves a series of steps, including milk testing and filtration, coagulation, curdling, cutting, brining, pressing, and aging. The milk used is typically cow's milk, supplied by farmers to creameries twice daily, and the final product can vary in terms of hole size, flavour, and texture depending on factors such as temperature, humidity, and aging time.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Bacteria | Propionic bacteria, Propionic Shermanii, Lactose converting bacteria, Lactic acid bacteria, Mesophilic combo, Thermophilic culture |
| Temperature | 87°F, 90°F, 30°-32°C, 63°C, 72°C, 55°F, 85% humidity, room temperature |
| Ingredients | Milk, Sea salt, Water, Calcium chloride, White vinegar, Rennet, Cheese salt, Butter muslin, Vegetable rennet |
| Equipment | Cheese harp, Cheesecloth, Cheese mold, Cheese press, Cheese cave |
| Time | 30-45 minutes, 24 hours, 1 week, 2-3 weeks, 12 weeks, 6 weeks |
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What You'll Learn
The role of bacteria
Three types of bacteria are used in the production of Swiss cheese: Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactobacillus (L. helveticus or L. delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus), and Propionibacterium (Propionibacterium freudenreichii subsp. shermani). These bacteria are deliberately introduced as a starter culture to initiate the fermentation process. During fermentation, the bacteria feed on lactose, producing lactic acid as a byproduct. This process not only contributes to the flavour of the cheese but also creates an environment conducive to the growth of subsequent microorganisms.
In the case of Swiss cheese, the starter culture also reduces the pH to a high end of the range typical for rennet-coagulated cheeses. The salt level is kept deliberately low, creating conditions (high pH and low salt) that favour the addition of a secondary bacterial culture, specifically Propionibacterium freundenreichii. This bacterium is responsible for the distinctive eyes or holes in Swiss cheese. It consumes the lactic acid produced by the previous bacteria, releasing acetate, propionic acid, and carbon dioxide gas. The carbon dioxide slowly forms bubbles, creating the holes or eyes. The larger the eyes, the more pronounced the flavour, as a longer fermentation period allows the bacteria more time to act and produce flavour compounds.
The cheesemaking process is a delicate balance of microbial activity. The right conditions must be provided for the desired bacteria to thrive and dominate the cheese microbiota. This process is known as microbial succession and is crucial in developing the characteristic appearance and flavour of Swiss cheese. The cheese's ageing environment, including temperature, humidity, and salt concentration, are all factors that influence the microbial activity and, consequently, the final product.
Overall, the role of bacteria in making Swiss cheese is multifaceted. From contributing to flavour development to creating the iconic eyes, the microbial activity plays a central role in defining the identity of Swiss cheese. The delicate balance of bacterial species and their interactions with the cheese matrix give rise to the unique characteristics that distinguish Swiss cheese from other varieties.
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Curdling the milk
Swiss cheese is made with cow's milk, which is first tested and then filtered. The milk is then heated to a temperature between 87°F and 90°F. Thermophilic culture is added and stirred well. Propionic bacteria are then added and stirred for at least 1 minute. The mixture is covered and allowed to ferment for 15 minutes.
The next step is curdling. The milk is gently heated to 30°-32°C, and lactic acid bacteria and rennet are added to begin the coagulation process. This results in a gelatinous substance. The milk is left to stand for 35-45 minutes. Within this time, the rennet curdles the milk – this is the curdling process. The cheese vat now contains curd: a smooth, pudding-like solid.
To produce the famous Swiss cheese holes, the curd is cut into small pieces. The size of the pieces determines the type of cheese that will be produced: the smaller the pieces, the harder the final cheese. The curds are stirred and heated up – the harder the cheese, the higher the temperature. The curds are cut into 1/4-inch cubes.
The final curds should be cooked well through and checked for dryness. They should be firm throughout and have moderate resistance when pressed between the fingers. Once cooked, the curds are gathered to one side of the pot to settle and consolidate into a mass.
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Cutting the curds
The curds are cut using a cheese harp, which is a specialised tool for this purpose. The cheese harp can have wires, blades, or both, to effectively cut through the curd. The curds should be cut into small, uniform pieces, ideally 1/4-inch cubes. The size of the curd pieces will determine the texture of the cheese, with smaller pieces resulting in a harder cheese. Therefore, the cheesemaker must work with precision and consistency when cutting the curds.
The cutting process also involves stirring the curds with the cheese harp. The duration of stirring impacts the size of the curd pieces. Longer stirring times will result in smaller curd pieces, as the continued motion breaks down the curds further. Additionally, the temperature at which the curds are stirred and heated will affect the final product, with higher temperatures yielding a harder cheese.
After cutting and stirring the curds, they are cooked and examined for dryness. A properly cooked and dried curd will be firm throughout and have moderate resistance when pressed between the fingers. Once the curds reach the desired dryness, they are allowed to settle and consolidate into a mass. This is done by gently pushing the curds to one side of the pot, allowing them to come together.
To further consolidate the curds, the next step is to drain the whey. The whey should be drained to 1" above the cheese surface. Then, a plate is placed on top of the curds, with a weight added to provide gentle pressure. This process helps the warm curds consolidate further and minimises the formation of mechanical holes in the cheese.
In summary, cutting the curds is a crucial step in Swiss cheese-making. It involves using a cheese harp to cut the curds into small, uniform pieces, with the size and duration of stirring impacting the texture of the final cheese. The curds are then cooked, dried, and consolidated to form a solid mass before being transferred into a cheese mould for the next stage of the cheese-making process.
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Pressing the curds
Preparing the Curds
Before pressing, the curds should be cooked thoroughly and checked for proper dryness. A well-cooked curd should be firm throughout, with a moderate resistance when pressed between the fingers. Once the curds have passed this test, they are ready for pressing.
Draining and Consolidating the Curds
Gather the cooked curds to one side of the pot to facilitate better consolidation. Drain the whey to 1" above the cheese surface. Place a plate on top of the curds, ensuring it is large enough to cover the curd mass. Add a weight to the plate—approximately 1/2 of the expected curd weight. For example, use 2.5 lbs of weight for 4 gallons of curds (1.5 lbs for 2 gallons). This step helps consolidate the warm curds and minimizes the formation of mechanical holes in the cheese.
Transferring the Curds
Remove any remaining whey, and transfer the consolidated curd mass into a cheesecloth. Immediately place the wrapped curds into a cheese mold to continue draining. This step ensures that the curds hold together and take on the desired shape.
Pressing Under Whey
The unique aspect of Swiss cheese production is pressing the curds under whey. This technique involves removing enough whey from the warm pot to allow the curds to be hooped into a mold. The curds are then topped with a follower and submerged in the remaining whey. A weighted jar or similar object can be used to keep the curds submerged. This process helps reduce tiny mechanical holes and encourages the curds to knit together more fully.
Pressing Techniques
Different pressing techniques can be employed, depending on the desired shape and size of the cheese. Mechanical presses are available, but loose weights can also be used. For example, start with 6 lbs of weight for the first hour, then flip the cheese and apply 12 lbs of weight for the next 5 hours, flipping hourly. Adjust the weights and pressing duration as needed to achieve the desired cheese size and density.
Environmental Considerations
Swiss cheese is made with a thermophilic (warm-temperature) culture, so pressing in a warm environment is ideal. In colder seasons, consider pressing in an insulated cooler or near a heat source. Monitor the temperature to ensure it remains within an optimal range to keep the cultures active.
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Aging the cheese
Brining and Initial Aging
Begin by preparing a brine solution. Dissolve 2 pounds of sea salt in 1 gallon of cold water. Submerge the cheese in this brine and let it soak for 24 hours. This step is crucial for proper rind formation. After brining, remove the cheese and dry it off. Transfer the cheese to a cool aging space maintained at a temperature of 50-55°F (or 55°F, according to another source) and humidity levels of about 80-85%. During this initial aging phase, the cheese should be aged for 2-4 weeks.
Turning and Mould Control
Throughout the aging process, it is essential to turn and control mould growth on the cheese. Use a brine-dampened cloth to wipe the cheese daily. Turning the cheese regularly helps to distribute moisture evenly, which will impact hole sizes.
Hole Development
After the initial aging period, move the cheese to a warmer aging space at 65-70°F and maintain humidity at 80%. This stage is critical for hole development. The time spent in this environment will determine the amount of gas produced by bacteria, directly influencing the size of the holes and the swelling of the cheese. For larger holes, keep the cheese in this environment for 3-4 weeks. If smaller holes are desired, reduce the time to 2-3 weeks.
Final Aging
For the final aging stage, transfer the cheese to a cold room with a temperature of 45-50°F and maintain humidity at 85%. Age the cheese in this environment for at least a month. During this phase, the flavour of the cheese will continue to develop and become more complex.
Waxing
Waxing is an optional step that can be done after hole development. Waxing the cheese will help protect its surface. Alternatively, you can dry brush the cheese periodically to encourage a natural rind to form.
Pressing and Flipping
Swiss cheese requires regular pressing and flipping during the aging process. Use loose weights to press the cheese, flipping it hourly and adjusting the weights accordingly. This process helps consolidate the curds and minimise mechanical holes.
Aging Swiss cheese is an art, and each step contributes to the final product's unique characteristics. By controlling temperature and humidity, regularly tending to the cheese, and allowing the bacteria to work, you will develop the iconic holes and nutty flavour of Swiss cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
Fresh, low-germ milk from healthy cows is the main ingredient in Swiss cheese. You will also need lactic acid bacteria, rennet, and propionic bacteria.
You will need a cheese vat, a cheese harp, a cheesecloth, and a cheese press.
First, the milk is heated and the bacteria and rennet are added to begin the coagulation process. The milk is left to stand, then cut into curds with the cheese harp. The curds are then cooked and consolidated into a mass. Next, the curds are brined and aged.
