
The idea of a world without cheese is a scary thought for many. Unfortunately, this may soon be our reality, as some cheeses are at risk of extinction. Popular varieties like Camembert, brie, and blue cheese are at risk of disappearing due to a collapse of microbial diversity. The loss of genetic diversity in Penicillium roqueforti, the species responsible for blue cheese production, is a key concern. However, there is hope on the horizon with the discovery of a new population of P. roqueforti in le bleu de Termignon, a small-scale cheese produced by a few farmers in the French Alps.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Reason for extinction | Lack of microbial diversity |
| Cheeses at risk | Camembert, Brie, Blue Cheese, Roquefort, Gorgonzola |
| Solution | Use local strains of fungi, accept diverse colors and aromas |
| Hope | A new population of P. Roqueforti found in Termignon Blue |
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What You'll Learn

Why is blue cheese going extinct?
Blue cheese is a popular variety of cheese that is at risk of disappearing due to a collapse of microbial diversity. The loss of genetic diversity in Penicillium roqueforti, the species responsible for blue cheese production, is a key factor in the potential extinction of this beloved cheese.
The process of cheesemaking involves introducing microbes, such as yeasts or molds, to fresh milk. In the case of blue cheese, the mold Penicillium roqueforti plays a crucial role in its distinctive flavor and characteristics. However, over the years, there has been a decline in the strains of this fungus, threatening the very existence of blue cheese.
The issue lies in the asexual reproduction of Penicillium roqueforti. While fungi can reproduce both sexually and asexually, the cheese industry's preference for asexual reproduction has led to a lack of genetic diversity. This lack of diversity makes the species less adaptable to changes and more susceptible to the accumulation of harmful mutations.
Additionally, the pressure to create the "perfect" block of cheese has contributed to the problem. Cheesemakers have historically favored specific strains of fungi that produce desirable traits, such as color, aroma, and texture. This selective breeding has further reduced the genetic diversity of Penicillium roqueforti.
However, there is a glimmer of hope on the horizon. A new population of Penicillium roqueforti was discovered in "Le Bleu de Termignon," a cheese crafted by a small group of farmers in the French Alps. This population is capable of sexual reproduction, providing an opportunity to bolster the genetic diversity of the species. By crossing strains, scientists have successfully induced sexual reproduction in the lab, creating new phenotypes and expanding the possibilities for genetic diversity within cheese strains.
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What is the process of making blue cheese?
While blue cheese is not going extinct, it is under threat, according to a memo by a French research center. This is due to a decline in the strains of fungus that give the cheese its unique taste, smell, colour and texture.
Now, to answer your question about the process of making blue cheese, here is a detailed, step-by-step guide:
The first step in making blue cheese is to choose the type of milk to use. Blue cheese can be made from cow, goat, sheep, or even buffalo milk, and this choice will impact the flavour and texture of the final product. The milk can be raw or pasteurized, which adds another layer of variation. The diet of the animals also plays a role, as the type of grass or hay they consume can affect the cheese's characteristics.
Next, the cheesemaker must decide on the specific blue cheese variety they want to create, as there are many artisanal types of blue cheese, each with its unique process. For example, Point Reyes Original Blue is made with raw cow's milk and has a high amount of blue moulding, resulting in crumbles of peppery blue/green mould. Another example is Rogue River Blue from Oregon, which does not follow ancient food rules and thus offers a unique take on blue cheese.
Once the milk and variety are chosen, the process of making blue cheese begins. One common method is the piercing method, where the cheese is pierced to create small openings for the blue mould to develop. This method is used in the creation of Bleu d'Auvergne, a creamy and mild blue cheese made from cow's milk with less salt than most other blue cheeses. The curd surface is cut into large cubes to retain moisture, and intermittent stirring is used to keep the curds separate and firm. The final curds should be plump and springy with a light skin on the surface.
After the curds are formed, they are transferred to a draining surface and allowed to drain for 10-20 minutes. Gentle stirring ensures that the whey drains well and the curds remain separate. It is important to avoid deep piling during this step to maintain the necessary openings for the blue mould to develop.
The blue mould is then added, requiring an aerobic environment to grow. As it grows, it produces enzymes that break down the proteins and fats in the cheese, resulting in the soft texture, aroma, and flavour characteristic of blue cheese.
The final steps in the process involve ripening and ageing the cheese. The cheesemaker may choose to ripen the cheese by spraying it with mould to promote the development of the rind. The ageing process can take several weeks, during which the cheese develops its distinctive blue veins and flavour.
And there you have it! A detailed guide on the process of making blue cheese. While it may seem straightforward, the specific techniques, environments, and treatments used by cheesemakers greatly impact the final product, resulting in the wide variety of blue cheeses available today.
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How does blue cheese differ from other cheeses?
Blue cheese is not a single type of cheese but a classification that includes many different types, each with a unique texture, flavour profile, and aroma. Blue cheese is made by adding cultures of edible moulds, which create blue-green spots or veins throughout the cheese. The mould culture can be introduced before or after the cheese curds form. Blue cheese is typically aged in temperature- and humidity-controlled environments, with the temperature kept around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius and the humidity at 85-95%. The distinctive flavour and aroma of blue cheese are due to methyl ketones, which are a metabolic product of the Penicillium roqueforti mould.
Blue cheese differs from other cheeses in several ways. Firstly, it is made with the addition of edible mould cultures, which give it its characteristic blue-green veins. Secondly, blue cheese has a unique flavour and aroma due to the presence of methyl ketones. Thirdly, blue cheese is typically aged in controlled environments to ensure the cheese does not spoil and develops the optimal flavour and texture. Finally, blue cheese can be made from a variety of milk types, including sheep, cow, goat, and buffalo milk, each imparting a distinctive flavour.
Some popular blue cheeses include Gorgonzola, Stilton, and Roquefort, which are considered favourites in many countries. Gorgonzola is an Italian blue cheese made from cow's milk, while Stilton is a British cheese also made from cow's milk. Roquefort, another well-known blue cheese, is made from sheep's milk in France. These cheeses have a protected designation of origin, meaning they can only be called by their respective names if produced in a certain way and location.
While blue cheese differs from other cheeses in several ways, it also shares some similarities. Like other cheeses, blue cheese can vary in texture, flavour, and aroma depending on the type and amount of cultures, the temperature of the curds, aging methods, and other factors. Additionally, blue cheese can be made from a variety of milk types, similar to other cheeses.
In recent years, there have been concerns about the potential extinction of some blue cheeses due to a decline in microbial diversity. However, it is important to note that the situation may not be as dire as initially thought, and cheesemakers are working to adapt and preserve these beloved cheeses.
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What are the alternatives to blue cheese?
While blue cheese is not on the verge of extinction, there is a risk of it disappearing due to a collapse of microbial diversity. This is also the case for other popular varieties of French cheese, such as Camembert and Brie. So, if you're a blue cheese lover, it might be worth trying out some alternatives, just in case!
One alternative to blue cheese is a French cheese called Bleu de Termignon. This cheese is made by only five farmers in the French Alps and has been found to contain a new population of P. roqueforti, the species responsible for blue cheese production. This new population is capable of sexual reproduction, which can help to bolster the genetic diversity of P. roqueforti.
Another option is to explore other types of cheese that are not at risk of extinction. For example, you could try a farmstead cheddar made from raw milk. This type of cheddar has a long history, with records indicating it has been produced in England since at least the 12th century. However, due to economic factors after World War II, the production of this cheese decreased significantly, and now only two producers remain, both located in Somerset, England.
Additionally, you could seek out smaller producers of cheese who are making rare varieties that are at risk of extinction. By purchasing these cheeses, you can help to support and protect the art, science, and tradition behind their creation. Whole Foods Market, for example, works with affineurs (cheese refiners) to seek out these smaller producers and bring their products to a broader market.
Finally, if you're open to trying something completely different, there are many non-dairy cheese alternatives available. These can be made from various bases, such as nuts, seeds, or vegetables, and often have similar flavour profiles to their dairy-based counterparts.
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What can be done to prevent blue cheese from going extinct?
The decline in the strains of fungus that give blue cheese its unique taste, smell, colour, and texture is a major concern for cheese lovers. To prevent blue cheese from going extinct, several measures can be taken:
Promoting Genetic Diversity
The loss of genetic diversity in the fungus Penicillium roqueforti, used in blue cheese production, is a critical issue. To address this, researchers have successfully induced sexual reproduction in the lab between different strains of P. roqueforti, creating new phenotypes with increased genetic diversity. This technique can help bolster the genetic diversity of P. roqueforti, making it more resilient and adaptable.
Embracing Local Strains
Encouraging cheesemakers to utilise local strains of fungi can help promote sustainability and preserve microbial diversity. By relying on a diverse range of natural rinds and local strains, cheesemakers can contribute to the overall genetic diversity of the cheese-making process.
Supporting Small-Scale Producers
Small-scale cheese manufacturers are becoming increasingly rare. Supporting these artisans by seeking out and purchasing their products can help ensure their financial viability and preserve the unique techniques and traditions they embody.
Educating Consumers
Educating consumers about the importance of microbial diversity in cheese and the potential variations in the appearance and taste of cheeses like Camembert can help foster acceptance and adaptability. Consumers who understand the impact of their choices can make informed decisions to support the preservation of cheese diversity.
Promoting Adaptability
Cheese producers and consumers alike must be willing to adapt to changes in the appearance and flavour of blue cheese. Embracing these variations can help sustain the cheese-making process and prevent the loss of beloved varieties.
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Frequently asked questions
Blue cheese may be under threat, but the situation is much worse for Camembert, which is already on the verge of extinction.
The loss of genetic diversity in Penicillium roqueforti, the species responsible for blue cheese production, is one of the reasons for the threat.
Researchers Ropars and Giraud suggest moving towards a more sustainable system with more local strains used by cheesemakers. They also found a new population of P. roqueforti in le bleu de Termignon, which can be used to bolster P. roqueforti’s genetic diversity.
Yes, popular varieties like Camembert, Brie, and Gorgonzola are also at risk of disappearing due to a collapse of microbial diversity.






















