
Macaroni and cheese is a comfort food beloved by many, but its origins are often debated. Some claim it is an Italian dish, citing its appearance in Italian cookbooks as early as 1465, while others argue that it has become so assimilated into American cuisine that its Italian heritage has been forgotten. Over time, the dish has undergone numerous transformations, with adaptations in France, England, and the US, leading to its complex culinary history.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Origin | Macaroni and cheese was served to the Italian aristocracy and even Popes. |
| Macaroni and cheese was first mentioned in a cookbook published by Martino da Como in 1465. | |
| By the mid-18th century, macaroni and cheese had taken root in France. | |
| By the early 19th century, "macaroni" came to mean dried tubular pasta to most people outside of Italy. | |
| Over time, the dish underwent a cultural transition, with numerous cookbooks published in England and the US. | |
| Its Italian origin was forgotten, and the dish was assimilated into the American foodscape. | |
| Many Italians today dismiss macaroni and cheese as a caloric Italian-American invention. |
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What You'll Learn

Macaroni was a generic word for pasta
The English word "macaroni" comes from the Italian "maccheroni", which is pronounced more or less the same way. The word "maccheroni" is used in Italy to refer to various types of durum wheat semolina pasta, which can be shaped like long or short tubes, with walls and central holes that can vary in thickness. In southern Italy, maccheroni can refer to various kinds of durum wheat semolina pasta, either short or long, hollow or not, and smooth or ridged. It is a generic name, but every specific type of maccheroni has its own name.
The academic consensus is that the word "maccheroni" is derived from the Greek "makaría", a type of barley broth served to commemorate the dead. This, in turn, comes from mákares, meaning "the blessed ones, blessed dead", the plural of "mákar", which means "blessed, happy".
The Italian linguist G. Alessio argues that the word "maccheroni" can have two origins. The first is the Medieval Greek "makarṓneia", which means "dirge". The word "macaroni" first appeared in English as "makerouns" in the 1390 recipe book "The Forme of Cury", which contains the earliest recipe for macaroni and cheese.
In the United States, federal regulations define three different shapes of dried pasta (macaroni, spaghetti, and vermicelli) as falling under the label of "macaroni product". This definition differs from the Italian definition of "maccheroni", which does not refer exclusively to tubular pasta.
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Maestro Martino's 'Roman macaroni' recipe
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a dish that has gone through many iterations over the centuries. While it is difficult to trace back the origins of the dish, one of the earliest known records of a similar recipe can be found in the work of Maestro Martino, a 15th-century culinary expert born in the Blenio Valley, in what is now Switzerland.
Maestro Martino, also known as Martino de Rossi or Martino de Rubeis, was a celebrated chef in Italy, working at the Roman palazzo of the papal chamberlain, the Patriarch of Aquileia. His book, "Libro de Arte Coquinaria" or "The Art of Cooking", published around 1465, is considered a landmark in Italian gastronomic literature. It documents the transition from medieval to Renaissance cuisine and contains recipes that showcase the influence of Spanish and Catalan cuisine.
One of the recipes in Maestro Martino's book is for a dish called "De Lesanis", which can be considered an early version of modern-day macaroni and cheese. The recipe calls for sheets of lasagna pasta to be cut into 2-inch squares and assembled in multiple layers with cheese and seasonings. The dish is then baked in an oven, resulting in a comforting blend of pasta, cheese, and spices.
To recreate Maestro Martino's Roman macaroni recipe, here is a step-by-step guide:
- Start by procuring sheets of lasagna pasta.
- Cut the pasta sheets into 2-inch squares.
- Grate or shred an ample amount of cheese. Any type of cheese can be used, depending on your preference.
- Prepare your desired seasonings. You can use a variety of herbs and spices, such as basil, oregano, thyme, or red pepper flakes.
- Assemble the dish by layering the pasta squares with the grated cheese and seasonings. Create as many layers as you like, ensuring there is enough cheese to bind the layers together.
- Place the assembled dish in a baking dish and put it in a preheated oven.
- Bake the dish until the cheese is melted and bubbly, and the pasta is cooked through. The baking time will depend on the thickness of your layers and the amount of pasta used.
- Once baked, remove the dish from the oven and let it cool slightly.
- Serve Maestro Martino's Roman macaroni, a delicious and historic take on the beloved macaroni and cheese.
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Macaroni and cheese's cultural transition
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese", is a dish of macaroni pasta covered in a cheese sauce, commonly cheddar. While the dish is considered a staple of American cuisine, its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Italy.
Medieval England
The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese was included in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, "The Experienced English Housekeeper". Raffald's recipe is for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese—a Mornay sauce in French cooking—which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked. Another early recipe, from Eliza Acton's 1845 "Modern Cookery in All Its Branches", instructs the cook to "dissolve gently ten ounces of any rich, well-flavoured white cheese in full three-quarters of a pint of good cream" with salt, Cayenne pepper, mace, and butter.
Italy
Some sources suggest that the origins of macaroni and cheese can be traced back to Italy. One theory suggests that the dish is an adaptation of lasagna, with sheets of pasta cut into squares, assembled in layers with cheese and seasonings, and then baked in the oven.
Cultural Transition to America
Macaroni and cheese was brought to the United States in the early 1800s by Thomas Jefferson, who served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner. The dish was introduced to Jefferson by his formerly enslaved chef, James Hemings, who had learned to make it in Paris. Hemings is credited with bringing the recipe to the United States and popularising it through Jefferson's lavish parties.
Over time, macaroni and cheese became a staple dish in traditional American households, especially in the American South. It is often associated with celebration and togetherness, particularly for Black Americans, and recipes are passed down through generations. The dish's popularity can be attributed to its accessibility and affordability, as it can be made with simple, affordable ingredients. It has appeared in countless American cookbooks and has become a common dish at holiday gatherings and special events.
Canada
Macaroni and cheese was brought to Canada by British immigrants and has been popular in the country for over a century. A recipe for "Macaroni with Permasent Cheese" was included in the 1845 cookbook "Modern Practical Cookery", suggesting a puff pastry lining, a sauce of cream, egg yolks, mace, and mustard, and grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese on top. Canadian Cheddar cheese was also becoming popular during this time and was likely used in macaroni and cheese recipes. Today, macaroni and cheese is considered a national dish in Canada, with Kraft Dinner being the most popular brand of packaged macaroni and cheese.
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The dish's Italian origin was forgotten
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese", is a dish that has become so deeply ingrained in American culture that its Italian origins have been forgotten. By the mid-18th century, the dish had already made its way to France, where it was adapted to suit French cuisine, marking the beginning of its cultural transition. Over time, the dish underwent numerous transformations, as evidenced by its various iterations in cookbooks published in England and the US.
The earliest known recipe for a dish resembling macaroni and cheese was published in 1465 by Maestro Martino, a renowned chef to the Italian aristocracy and high clergy. His cookbook featured a "Roman macaroni" recipe that included butter and copious amounts of cheese, typically Parmesan, along with sugar and cinnamon. However, by the 19th century, the term "macaroni" outside of Italy had come to refer specifically to dried tubular pasta, and the dish began to be associated with other cultures.
In the iconic Southern cookbook "The Carolina Housewife" (1847), for example, a recipe titled "To dress Macaroni a la Sauce Blanche" is included, reflecting French influence. Interestingly, entries called "Italian macaroni" in cookbooks from that time no longer referred to macaroni and cheese but rather pasta dishes with stewed beef and tomatoes. This shift in terminology contributed to the gradual fading of the dish's Italian origins from popular memory.
The dish's journey from Italy to France, England, and eventually the United States, along with its adaptations along the way, resulted in a cultural transition that obscured its true origins. Today, macaroni and cheese is so deeply intertwined with American culinary culture, especially in the South, that even its country of origin has forgotten its Italian roots. It has become a comfort food staple and a beloved part of American cuisine, with many Italians dismissing it as a caloric Italian-American invention rather than recognising its Italian heritage.
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Macaroni cheese's ancient Italian recipe
Macaroni and cheese is a traditional Italian dish that has evolved over the centuries and has taken on many iterations. The earliest versions of the dish were made by layering sheets of lasagna pasta cut into squares with cheese and seasonings and baking them in the oven. This method of preparation is similar to the modern-day lasagna.
One way to make an Italian-style macaroni and cheese is to use a high-quality, short pasta. The pasta should be cooked al dente in salted water and then drained. For an authentic Italian flavor, the pasta can be cooked in milk with a chunk of onion and a bit of nutmeg. The cheese sauce can be made by melting butter in a saucepan and adding flour, Italian seasoning, salt, and pepper. Milk is then gradually added to create a béchamel sauce. This is then layered with the cooked pasta, canned tomatoes, and cheese sauce, and sprinkled with mozzarella cheese and breadcrumbs. The dish is then baked in the oven until golden brown and bubbly.
Another variation of the Italian macaroni and cheese recipe involves creating a thick cheese fondue by heating cream in a saucepan and adding rocchetta cheese. The slightly undercooked pasta is then added directly to the cheese fondue and stirred until fully coated. Parmesan cheese is then mixed in, and the dish is served with freshly ground black pepper and toasted breadcrumbs.
To make the dish heartier, protein can be added to the layers, such as chicken or pancetta. Bacon bits and guanciale can also be used to add flavor, with guanciale being a more traditional Italian ingredient. To enhance the flavor further, garlic powder can be added to the cheese sauce.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, macaroni and cheese is Italian. In 1465, Maestro Martino, a renowned chef to the aristocracy and high clergy, published a cookbook with a recipe for "Roman macaroni", a butter and cheese-based pasta. By the mid-18th century, macaroni and cheese had become popular in France, and later in England and the US, where its Italian origin was forgotten.
As macaroni and cheese travelled from Italy to other countries, it was adapted to fit the local cuisine. For example, the French veered towards a creamier style. Over time, the dish underwent a cultural transition, and its Italian origin was quietly forgotten.
The original Italian recipe for macaroni and cheese involves tossing the pasta in a raw cheese mixture and then baking it in layers. This is different from the modern recipe, which typically uses a bechamel sauce.

























