Randy Chandler
Aging cheese in caves is an ancient tradition that requires more work and indicates a cheesemaker who is willing to slow down to develop a deeper flavour. The ideal temperature and humidity conditions of the legendary sandstone caves of Faribault, Minnesota, allow native blue-green moulds to flourish. This process is also carried out by Murray's, the iconic Greenwich Village cheesemonger, which has been aging its own cheeses in caves since 2004. The cheeses inside are harder and come in much larger wheels, and they're aged for months and years instead of days and weeks. Examples of cave-aged cheeses include Karst Cave Aged Cheddar from Vermont, Roquefort, a sheep's milk blue cheese from France, and Manchego, a semi-soft Spanish cheese.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Aging time | Months to years |
| Aging factors | Mold, temperature, humidity |
| Type of milk | Sheep, cow, or a combination of both |
| Texture | Hard, semi-soft, or buttery |
| Rind | Natural or added on |
| Flavour | Sweet, nutty, fruity, earthy, creamy, bold |
| Pairings | Wine, chicken, steak, hamburgers, cheese boards |
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What You'll Learn
Aging cheese in caves is an ancient tradition
Caves provide the perfect natural setting for cheese maturation, with their constant temperature and humidity levels. These conditions are crucial for the development of cheese, as they promote the growth of specific mould cultures and allow moisture to be retained, creating the characteristic flavours and textures of cave-aged cheeses. The long ageing process further enhances the flavour by breaking down proteins and fats, resulting in sweeter and nuttier notes.
Cheesemakers who age their products in caves are committed to pursuing perfection in flavour, texture, and quality. The sandstone caves of Faribault, Minnesota, for example, are renowned for their ideal conditions that nurture the development of complex flavour profiles. Similarly, the Grafton Village Cheese company in Vermont ages its signature Clothbound Cheddar in caves for a minimum of seven months, a traditional method that imparts a deeper variety of flavours compared to modern ageing techniques.
The type of cheese also plays a role in the cave-ageing process. Harder cheeses with larger wheels, such as those found in Murray's Cheese Caves, are aged internally, while softer cheeses may age externally. The rind of the cheese serves as a protective barrier, preventing the escape of moisture and mould cultures. Regular washing of the rind, either with water or salt brines, ensures that it does not dry out and crack during the lengthy maturation process.
Cave-aged cheeses come in a variety of flavours and textures, from semi-soft and buttery to bold and savoury. Some of the most famous cave-aged cheeses include Roquefort, a sheep's milk blue cheese from France, and Manchego, a semi-soft Spanish cheese made from sheep's milk. These cheeses showcase the artistry and dedication of cheesemakers who embrace the ancient tradition of cave maturation.
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The right temperature and humidity
Achieving the right temperature and humidity is essential to the process of making cheese in caves. The ideal conditions will allow native blue-green moulds to flourish, contributing to the complex flavour profiles of the cheese. The legendary sandstone caves of Faribault, Minnesota, for example, are known for providing the perfect natural environment for this process, with their unique temperature and humidity conditions.
Caves provide a constant, cool temperature, which is crucial for the development of cheese. The ideal temperature range for ageing cheese is between 10°C and 15°C (50°F and 59°F). At these temperatures, the cheese can age slowly and develop its full flavour. Warmer temperatures can cause the cheese to spoil, while cooler temperatures can slow down the ageing process too much.
Humidity is another critical factor in the cheese-making process. The ideal humidity level in a cave is between 80% and 90%. This high humidity helps to prevent the cheese from drying out and cracking. It also encourages the growth of mould, which is essential for the ageing process and the development of flavour.
To maintain the proper humidity, cheesemakers may employ various techniques. In some cases, they wash the cheese with water or brine solutions several times a week to keep the rind from drying out. In other instances, the cheese may be wrapped in cloth, which allows it to breathe and interact with the surrounding environment, resulting in a deeper variety of flavours.
The specific temperature and humidity conditions within a cave can vary depending on factors such as location, season, and ventilation. As such, each cave will impart its unique characteristics to the cheese, influencing the flavour, texture, and overall quality of the final product. This variability is part of the art and science of cheese-making, requiring a careful balance of factors to create the perfect cheese.
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Different stages of ageing
Ageing is a critical process in preparing cheese, and it must be done correctly and for the right amount of time in a controlled temperature setting to achieve the desired flavour, texture, and colour. While actual caves are now uncommon, artificial caves that replicate the environment are frequently employed for this purpose.
Cheeses that have been cave-aged tend to have more intense flavours and scents. The natural airflow and irregular temperature variations in caves make them ideal environments for mould to grow. The evaporation of moisture inside the cheese over time also significantly alters the ripening trajectory of cave-aged cheeses.
Murray's, a well-known Greenwich Village cheesemonger, has been ageing its cheeses in custom-built caves since 2004. They have four separate caves: the Washed Rind Cave, the Bloomy Rind Cave, the Natural Rind Cave, and the Alpine Cave. Each cave caters to different styles of cheese, which require distinct mould cultures, temperatures, timeframes, and moisture levels to age properly.
The Washed Rind Cave is home to stronger-flavoured and odorous cheeses. These cheeses are externally ripened, and the washes they receive, which can include water, beer, wine, or cider, contribute to their distinct flavours, independent of the mould or bacterial cultures. The Bloomy Rind Cave, on the other hand, is designated for soft-ripened cheeses like Brie, which age from the outside in. The Natural Rind Cave houses cheeses that age both externally and internally, with harder and larger cheeses requiring more time to mature fully. Lastly, the Alpine Cave is where cheeses like Montgomery's Cheddar from Somerset, England, are aged internally, resulting in a longer ageing process.
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Types of cave-aged cheese
Aging cheese in caves is an ancient tradition that requires more work and indicates a cheesemaker who is willing to slow down to develop a deeper flavor. The ideal temperature and humidity conditions of certain caves allow native molds to flourish, creating complex flavor profiles. Here are some examples of cave-aged cheeses:
Karst Cave Aged Cheddar
This is a complex alpine-inspired cheddar from Vermont’s rural Northeast Kingdom. It has flavors of earth, cream, and stone.
Schellen Bell
A savory and bold Swiss cheese, Schellen Bell is aged to perfection. It has a firm and meltable texture, with rich and meaty flavors.
Roquefort
One of the world's most famous blues, Roquefort is a sheep's milk blue cheese from France.
AmaGorg Gorgonzola
A product of the Caves of Faribault in Minnesota, AmaGorg Gorgonzola is cave-aged for a minimum of 90 days, giving it a sweet flavor profile that pairs well with wine, chicken, or dried fruit and nuts.
Manchego
A semi-soft Spanish cheese made from sheep's milk, Manchego has different names and flavors depending on its aging time. Semi-Curado is fruity and aged for 3 months, Curado is nutty and aged for 6 months, and Viejo is crumbly and aged for a year.
Grana Padano
This Italian cheese has a fine granular texture and a very sweet flavor. Like Manchego, it takes on different flavors depending on the aging time. Grana Padano is aged for 9-16 months, Grana Padano Oltre is aged for over 16 months, and Grana Padano Riserva is aged for over 20 months.
Grafted text: Additionally, Murray's in Greenwich Village, New York, has been aging their own cheeses in custom caves since 2004. They offer a range of cave-aged cheeses, including harder cheeses that are aged internally and washed with water regularly to prevent the rinds from drying out.
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Cheeses aged internally
The rinds of these cheeses are washed several times a week with water to prevent them from drying out and cracking. Younger cheeses, from zero to five months, are often washed with salt brines, which may include cultures, depending on the cheese.
Spring Brook Tarentaise, made in Vermont, arrives at Murray's about five to six months after production and is sold after about 10 to 12 months of total ageing. Another example is Cornelia, a semi-soft, buttery cheese from California, which is aged for about six months, first in the Washed Rind Cave, and then in the Natural Rind Cave.
Grafton's Vermont cave-aged cheeses are artisanal, small-batch cheeses that may include cow's milk, sheep's milk, or a combination of the two. Their signature Clothbound Cheddar is wrapped in cheesecloth and cave-aged for a minimum of seven months, a traditional method used for centuries in Britain and the pre-industrialised US.
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Frequently asked questions
Ageing cheese in caves is an ancient tradition that allows cheesemakers to develop deeper flavours. The temperature and humidity in the caves are ideal conditions for native blue-green moulds to flourish, giving each cheese a complex and unique flavour profile.
There are a few places around the world where cheese is made in caves. In the US, there are the Caves of Faribault in Minnesota, and the Grafton Village Cheese company in Vermont. In Europe, there is Manchego, a semi-soft Spanish cheese, and in Switzerland, there is the Schellen Bell.
This depends on the type of cheese. In the US, the minimum time is 75 days for blue cheese, while AmaGorg Gorgonzola is cave-aged for a minimum of 90 days. In Vermont, Grafton's Clothbound Cheddar is cave-aged for a minimum of seven months. In Spain, Manchego is aged for between three months and a year, depending on the variety.
The caves are kept at a specific temperature and humidity to encourage moulds to grow on the cheese. The cheeses are often larger wheels and are aged for months or years. The rinds are either natural or added on afterwards for preservation.
Some cheeses that are made in caves include Karst Cave Aged Cheddar, Schellen Bell, Roquefort, AmaGorg Gorgonzola, Clothbound Cheddar, Manchego, and Grana Padano.
