Bushra Griffith
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese', is a popular dish worldwide. It is made by covering macaroni in a cheese sauce, usually a cheddar sauce. The earliest recorded recipe for the dish dates back to the 13th century, in an Italian cookbook called the 'Liber de Coquina' or 'Book of Cooking'. The recipe, called 'de lasanis', calls for sheet pasta cut into squares, cooked in water and tossed with grated cheese, likely Parmesan. Since then, macaroni and cheese has spread across the world, with recipes appearing in Canada in 1845, the UK in 1769, and the USA in 1824.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Earliest recipe | The earliest recipe for macaroni and cheese can be traced back to the 13th century in Italy, in a cookbook called "Liber de Coquina" or "Book of Cooking." |
| Medieval times | There are mentions of pasta and cheese being combined in medieval England and medieval Tuscany. |
| 18th century | In 1731, the monastery of Disentis in Switzerland purchased a macaroni machine. |
| 19th century | A traditional Swiss dish called "Älplermagronen" (Alpine herder's macaroni) became popular. |
| Early 19th century | Thomas Jefferson is known to have brought recipes for macaroni and cheese to the US after his travels in Italy and France. He served the dish at a state dinner in 1802. |
| 1824 | Mary Rudolph, Jefferson's daughter's sister-in-law, is credited with inventing the official dish in her cookbook "The Virginia Housewife." |
| 1845 | Eliza Acton's "Modern Cookery in All Its Branches" includes a recipe for "Macaroni a la Reine," which involves combining cheese with cream, salt, Cayenne pepper, mace, and butter. |
| 20th century | In the mid-20th century, it became popular to prepare macaroni and cheese using a packaged mix. During the Great Depression in 1937, Kraft released its boxed macaroni and cheese, which became a popular and affordable option for families. |
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What You'll Learn
Medieval English and Italian origins
The origins of macaroni and cheese can be traced back to medieval times in both England and Italy, where early versions of the dish were prepared. In England, a dish called "makerouns" was mentioned in the 14th-century cookbook, the Forme of Cury. This dish was made by boiling flat sheets of pasta, cutting them into small pieces, and then layering them with melted butter and cheese. The recipe also included sugar and spices, reflecting the sweet and savoury flavours popular in medieval cuisine.
Similarly, in Italy, early forms of macaroni and cheese can be found in cookbooks from the 14th and 15th centuries. One such example is a recipe for "Lasagna pie" in the Neapolitan cookbook, Liber de Coquina. This dish combined boiled pasta sheets with cheese and spices, and was baked until golden brown. Another Italian recipe from the same period, "De Magna Heath," calls for mixing boiled macaroni with cheese and butter, and then grilling it until crispy.
The common ingredient in both English and Italian medieval versions of macaroni and cheese was the type of pasta used. The pasta was typically made from a mixture of flour and water, sometimes with eggs added, and then shaped into flat sheets or tubes. This pasta would be boiled until soft and then combined with cheese and other ingredients.
The cheeses used in these early recipes varied depending on the region and availability. In England, cheeses like Cheddar or Cheshire, which have a sharp and slightly tangy flavour, were commonly used. Meanwhile, in Italy, milder and more meltable cheeses such as mozzarella, ricotta, or Parmesan were preferred.
While the basic combination of pasta and cheese remained consistent, the preparation and serving methods evolved over time. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the English began to bake their macaroni and cheese casseroles, resulting in a heartier and more cohesive dish. Herbs and spices were also commonly added to enhance the flavour.
In Italy, the transition from boiled to baked macaroni and cheese occurred as well, with the addition of meat, tomato sauce, and other ingredients to create more elaborate casseroles. It is during this time that the dish began to take on a more recognisable form, as the combination of pasta, cheese, and tomato sauce became popular throughout Italy and eventually spread to other parts of Europe and beyond.
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Thomas Jefferson's influence
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese," is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in a cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins trace back to medieval England and Italy. The first macaroni and cheese recipe can be found in the 13th-century Italian cookbook "Liber de Coquina" ("Book of Cooking"). The recipe was called "de lasanis". Another early recipe for the dish can be found in "The Forme of Cury", a cookbook from 1390, which includes a recipe for a cheese and pasta casserole called "makerouns".
Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States, is often credited with popularizing macaroni and cheese in America. During his time as a diplomat in France, Jefferson encountered the dish and was so impressed that he brought a pasta machine and a recipe back to the United States. Macaroni and cheese became a favourite at Monticello, his Virginia estate, where he often served it to guests, including many of America's founding fathers.
Jefferson first encountered macaroni and cheese in Italy and France, where he spent time exploring European cuisine. He was fascinated by the taste and simplicity of the dish, and meticulously documented the recipes and techniques for making pasta. In 1787, Jefferson wrote detailed notes on making macaroni and even commissioned a special pasta machine to be sent to him in America.
Upon his return to the United States, Jefferson introduced macaroni and cheese to his guests at Monticello and at state dinners, helping to popularize the dish in America. Jefferson reportedly loved mac and cheese when he tried it in Italy, and he had White House chefs recreate and serve the dish during his presidency. James Hemings, a chef enslaved by Thomas Jefferson, is also attributed to the success and popularity of mac and cheese in America. Hemings spent 5 years with Jefferson in Paris learning French cuisine and is said to have developed the recipe.
The popularity of mac and cheese in America was further cemented when Jefferson's relative, Mary Randolph, included the first printed recipe for macaroni and cheese in her wildly popular cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife," published in 1824. After Randolph published this recipe, mac and cheese recipes started popping up in other cookbooks, and the dish began to go viral.
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Black and African American cooks
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in a cheese sauce, commonly a cheddar sauce. While the dish is believed to have originated in Italy, with roots in medieval England, it has a rich history with Black and African American cooks.
During the era of U.S. chattel slavery, Thomas Jefferson brought his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, to France. There, Hemings trained under renowned chefs and caterers, serving royalty and receiving rave reviews. Upon returning to the U.S., Hemings introduced his version of European cheesy pasta, a 'pie made of macaroni', at Jefferson's dinner parties. This dish became a hit among wealthy southerners, and Hemings's recipe spread within the Black community. Post-Emancipation, mac and cheese became a celebratory staple in every African American home.
Black Southern cooks, like enslaved foremothers and later generations of women such as Sylvia Woods of Harlem's famed Sylvia's restaurant, were the true progenitors of mac and cheese. These cooks passed down culinary heirlooms, ensuring the dish's place as a soul food staple. Today, mac and cheese is recognized as a celebratory dish, a convenient comfort food, and a meal stretcher for African American families.
Soul food recipes, including mac and cheese, are African-American recipes full of flavor. They represent a legacy of Southern cooking with a rich heritage. Black cooks have added their own unique twists to the dish, with some using eggs, margarine, elbow macaroni noodles, evaporated milk, and sharp cheddar cheese. Others have opted for a béchamel-based roux and various cheeses. While there is no one "rightful, authentic" way for Black people to make mac and cheese, the dish remains a culinary centerpiece for many Black families and gatherings.
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Switzerland's traditional dish
Switzerland's central location in Europe has made it a cultural melting pot, with spices, herbs, and culinary techniques from Italy, France, and Germany influencing Swiss cuisine. The Swiss take pride in their food culture, emphasising fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
Switzerland boasts a rich array of regional dishes, each showcasing the unique flavours of different areas. One of Switzerland's most famous national dishes includes cheese and potatoes, apples, and oats. The country is also renowned for its delicious cheeses, such as Emmental, known for its characteristic holes and nutty flavour, and Gruyère, which is often used in fondues and adds a creamy texture to both savoury and sweet dishes. Another cheese called Vacherin Fribourgeois, produced in the Fribourg region, has a semi-soft texture and a mild, slightly nutty flavour. It is often used in fondues and other melted cheese dishes. During Christmas, a semi-hard cow's milk cheese called Tête de Moine, or "monk's head" in French, is enjoyed. This cheese, which originates from the Jura region, is traditionally shaved into thin, delicate rosettes using a special tool called a "girolle".
Switzerland also has a traditional dish called Älplermagronen (Alpine herder's macaroni), which became popular in the 19th century. In addition, Switzerland is a leading producer of high-quality chocolate, with Swiss chocolate gaining global recognition in the 20th century.
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Kraft's boxed phenomenon
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in a cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Italy. The earliest known recipe for mac and cheese is found in the 1390 English cookbook, 'The Forme of Cury', which includes a recipe for a cheese and pasta casserole called "makerouns". Another early recipe for the dish can be found in the 13th-century Italian cookbook, 'Liber de Coquina' or 'Book of Cooking'. This recipe, called "de lasanis", is believed by food historians to be the first macaroni and cheese recipe.
In 1937, Kraft introduced its boxed macaroni and cheese product, known as Kraft Dinner or Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Dinner, in the United States and Canada. The product was a packaged mix of dried macaroni pasta and a packet of processed cheese powder. The creation and release of Kraft's boxed mac and cheese are said to have turned the dish into a phenomenon. The timing of the product's launch contributed significantly to its success. During World War II, rationing of milk and dairy products, the increased popularity of meatless meals, and the rise in the number of women working outside the home created a large market for the convenient and hearty meal.
Kraft's boxed mac and cheese became especially popular in Canada, where it has achieved iconic status and is often considered a de facto national dish. Canadians consume 55% more boxes of Kraft Dinner per capita than Americans and purchase 1.7 million of the 7 million boxes sold globally each week. The product's popularity in Canada is attributed to its shelf-stable nature, as many Canadian homes did not have refrigerators at the time of its release. Additionally, during World War II, consumers could receive two boxes for one food ration stamp, making it an affordable and accessible meal option.
Over the years, Kraft has introduced various flavour variations and formulations of its boxed mac and cheese. In 1954, the box's primary colour changed from yellow to blue, and an advertising campaign encouraged children to ask for "The Blue Box". In 1975, a version with spiral-shaped noodles was introduced, followed by the launch of Velveeta Shells & Cheese in 1984. Kraft has also released single-serving options, such as Easy Mac (now Mac & Cheese Dinner Cups), which require only water for preparation. In 2018, Kraft introduced the KD Shaker, a plastic bottle of powdered cheese that can be used without the pasta, similar to shelf-stable Parmesan cheese powder.
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Frequently asked questions
The earliest recorded mac and cheese recipe dates back to the 13th century in Italy. The recipe, called de lasanis, includes sheet pasta cut into squares, cooked in water, and tossed with grated cheese, likely Parmesan.
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with introducing macaroni and cheese to the US, it is believed that the dish was already present in the country before he served it at a state dinner in 1802. Jefferson's enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, is said to have perfected the recipe after learning French cooking techniques in Europe.
Macaroni and cheese grew in popularity across Europe after its origins in Italy. It was introduced to Canada by British immigrants and became popular in Switzerland in the 19th century as Älplermagronen (Alpine herder's macaroni).
