Andy Montoya
Milan is known for its fashion, but it is also the birthplace of some of Italy's most delicious cheeses. From Grana Padano, a competitor to Parmesan with a grainy structure and nutty aftertaste, to Gorgonzola, a mouldy cheese produced in a small village nearby, there is a variety of cheese to try in Milan. Mascarpone, a delicate cream cheese often used in tiramisu, is also a popular choice. For those looking to buy cheese in Milan, La Baita del Formaggio and Obicà are recommended, while for a meal out, Naga Rajesh Garikiparthi and Alessandro Turra recommend the city's charming restaurants for unique dishes like tortelloni with homemade cheese and burrata and tomato salad.
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What You'll Learn
Mozzarella, including buffalo mozzarella and fior di latte
Mozzarella, a fresh cheese with a delicate flavour, is a popular topping for pizzas and is also served fresh in a Caprese salad. It is one of the most famous Italian cheeses and is traditionally made from buffalo milk. However, there is another variety of mozzarella made from cow's milk, called Fior di Latte, which translates to "flower of milk" in Italian.
Fior di Latte is made from pasteurised cow's milk. The cheese maker adds rennet to the milk for coagulation. Once the curds are formed, they are cut into small pieces to allow the whey to drain. After allowing the curd to rest for a few hours, it is transferred into a bath of very hot whey. The high temperature softens the curds, and the cheese maker stretches them by hand until the texture is soft, elastic, and stringy.
Fior di Latte is best eaten within a few days of production. It is widely available and less expensive than Mozzarella di Bufala. It has a milder flavour compared to Mozzarella di Bufala, which has a richer and tangier flavour and a softer, creamier texture. Mozzarella di Bufala is considered a premium product and is typically more expensive.
The choice between Fior di Latte and Mozzarella di Bufala depends on personal preference, the dish being prepared, and availability. Both cheeses are commonly used in Italian cuisine, particularly in dishes like Caprese salad, pizzas, and pasta.
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Burrata, a mozzarella pouch filled with cream
Burrata is a fresh Italian cheese made from cow's milk or buffalo cow's milk. It is a type of mozzarella with a soft outer shell and a rich, creamy interior. The exterior is made by shaping mozzarella into a flat disc or pouch, while the interior is made from leftover mozzarella curds that are shredded by hand (this is the stracciatella) and then mixed with fresh cream. The still-warm mozzarella pouch is then filled with the stracciatella and twisted shut at the top, resembling a purse.
Burrata was invented in the 1920s in Puglia, Southern Italy, as a way to use up leftover mozzarella scraps and cream from the cheese-making process. Its name comes from 'burro', the Italian word for butter, which refers to its rich, buttery texture. Burrata is best eaten fresh and at room temperature on the day it is made, although it can be consumed within 48 hours.
Burrata has a decadent and soft texture and is often paired with simple Italian ingredients. It is commonly served as an antipasti, paired with fresh tomatoes, grilled vegetables, or prosciutto. It can also be served as a main dish in a salad, with greens, cherry tomatoes, and other seasonal vegetables. When added to pizza or focaccia, burrata is added after baking to preserve its texture and flavour.
In Milan, burrata can be enjoyed in various dishes, such as a tomato salad with crostini or a caprese salad. It is a popular choice for cheese lovers visiting the city, who can savour its unique taste and texture while exploring Milan's renowned fashion and cultural offerings.
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Parmigiano reggiano
The name Parmigiano Reggiano is protected by law, ensuring that only cheese made in the specified region according to strict standards can bear this name. This protection is similar to the Denomination of Origin Protected (DOP) status given to other Italian foods and drinks, such as wine and olive oil.
When purchasing Parmigiano Reggiano, it is essential to look for the official seal or stamp on the rind to ensure authenticity. The cheese is typically sold in wedges or chunks cut from larger wheels, and it can be found in most grocery stores and specialty food shops in Milan and across Italy.
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Gorgonzola
There are two primary variations of Gorgonzola: Dolce, with a more delicate flavour and buttery consistency, and Piccante, with a more pungent flavour and firm, crumbly texture. Gorgonzola Cremificato is a variety of Gorgonzola Dolce, known for its sweet, creamy texture and mildly spicy veining. Either variation can be quite salty, with a "bite" from their blue veining. More recently, a variation has been marketed widely, featuring a layered block alternating the more assertive Gorgonzola with the more delicate Mascarpone, marketed as Gorgonzola e Mascarpone.
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Asiago, including Asiago Pressato and Asiago d'allevo
Asiago is a versatile cheese with a rich history and a range of styles. It is named after the area in which it was first produced, the Asiago plateau in the Veneto region of Italy. Asiago has been produced since at least the 10th century, and originally used sheep's milk. By the 1700s, cattle had replaced sheep on the Asiago plateau, and Asiago began to be made with cow's milk, as it is today.
The two main types of Asiago are Asiago Pressato and Asiago d'Allevo. Asiago Pressato is the younger version of the cheese, aged for only 20 days, with a smooth, semi-soft texture and a sweet, buttery flavour. Its elastic quality makes it perfect for melting into paninis or on pizzas.
Asiago d'Allevo is the aged version of the cheese, with a drier, crumbly texture similar to Parmigiano Reggiano. It is often grated and used in salads, soups, pastas, and sauces. It is produced in three varieties: Asiago Mezzano, which is aged for 4-6 months and has a compact paste with a straw-coloured rind and a sweetish taste; Asiago Vecchio, which is aged for at least 10 months; and Asiago Stravecchio, which is aged for at least 15 months and can be piccante.
Asiago is now produced in several countries, including Italy, the United States, and Australia. However, Asiago produced in Italy has a protected designation of origin (DOP), which means that the term "Asiago" can only be used for cheese produced in the designated area when following traditional methods.
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Frequently asked questions
Milan, and Italy in general, is known for its mozzarella. The most popular varieties include buffalo mozzarella, where mozzarella is made from water buffalo’s milk, giving it a creamy texture. There’s also fior di latte, made from fresh cow’s milk, and mozzarella affumicata, known for its savoury and smoked flavour.
Obicà and Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone are two restaurants in Milan that are known for their cheese.
Other Italian cheeses include parmigiano reggiano, asiago, gorgonzola, and mascarpone, which is used in tiramisu.
