Bushra Griffith
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is one of the oldest cheeses in the rich Italian tradition, with its roots in the ingenuity of Benedictine and Cistercian monks in the area between Parma and Reggio Emilia. In June 2025, a 36kg wheel of parmesan produced in February 1998 was opened after 27 years and three months of maturation, smashing the previous record for the oldest parmesan by six years. The cheese, produced by Romano and Silvia Camorani, was described as an authentic jewel of nature and valued at over €20,000 (£17,000). Before this, the record for the oldest parmesan was held by a 21-year-old wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, produced in April 2000 by the Latteria di Tabiano dairy under the leadership of the late Erio Bertani.
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What You'll Learn
Parmigiano Reggiano is the official name
Parmigiano Reggiano has a rich history that dates back to the 13th century when it was crafted by Benedictine monks in the area between Parma and Reggio Emilia. The monks aimed to reduce waste and create a cheese with exceptional durability, which became a valuable food source for travellers and merchants. Historical documents show that Parmigiano Reggiano was already very similar to the cheese produced today, suggesting its origins can be traced even further back.
The official certification for Parmigiano Reggiano is stamped into the central oval of each wheel when it is graded. All producers of Parmigiano Reggiano belong to the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium), which sets and enforces the standards for the PDO. To earn its credentials, the Italian hard cheese must be aged for at least 12 months, but it can continue to develop flavour with extended ageing.
In June 2025, a 36kg wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano set a new record as the oldest Parmesan cheese. Produced in February 1998, it was matured for 27 years and three months, surpassing the previous record of 21 years. This exceptional cheese was crafted with care and attention, resulting in a product that retained its edibility and exceptional flavour profile.
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Monks pioneered the cheese-making process
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is one of the oldest cheeses in Italian tradition. The story of this golden, crumbly masterpiece began over seven centuries ago in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy. Benedictine and Cistercian monks in the area between Parma and Reggio Emilia pioneered the cheese-making process. Their aim was to reduce waste and create a cheese with exceptional durability, which would become an essential food for travellers and merchants.
In the era when cheeses had a limited shelf life, the monks, with their visionary reclamation work, intensified farming and increased milk production. This abundance of milk led the monks to maximise its use by producing a cheese that demonstrated an extraordinary ability to be preserved over time. Thus, Parmesan cheese was born as a result of a wise combination of techniques and ingredients. The monks' near-exclusive control over its production was a testament to the cheese's revered status.
The cheese quickly gained popularity, and by the 13th century, its fame had spread and consolidated, allowing it to reach other important destinations in Italy and the Mediterranean through the port of Genoa. Historical documents show that in the 13th and 14th centuries, Parmigiano Reggiano was already very similar to the cheese produced today, suggesting its origins can be traced even further back. The earliest written record of this cheese is from the year 1254.
Parmesan cheese was praised as early as 1348 in the writings of Boccaccio, who immortalised the cheese in his literary masterpiece, the Decameron. He described a fantastical land of Bengodi, where a mountain of grated Parmigiano Reggiano stood tall, nourishing its inhabitants with delectable macaroni and ravioli. This vivid portrayal further cemented the cheese's reputation as a symbol of abundance and culinary excellence.
In modern times, the legacy of Parmesan is safeguarded through rigorous designation of origin protocols, ensuring that only cheese from certain Italian provinces can bear the name Parmigiano-Reggiano. This not only preserves its historical integrity but also its unmatched quality.
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Parmesan has been around for seven centuries
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, has a rich history that dates back centuries. According to historical documents, this beloved cheese can trace its origins as far back as the 13th and 14th centuries, with some evidence suggesting that the name was used even earlier, in the 17th to 19th centuries. The earliest written record of Parmesan cheese is from the year 1254, and it was praised in the writings of Boccaccio in 1348 and 1351.
The story of Parmesan cheese is deeply intertwined with the monks of the Parma-Reggio region, particularly the Benedictine and Cistercian monks. These monks, faced with a surplus of milk and a need for preservation, crafted a cheese-making process that resulted in a culinary innovation. Their aim was to create a cheese with exceptional durability, and they succeeded in producing a food that became essential for travellers and merchants due to its long shelf life. The monks' dedication and craftsmanship laid the foundation for what would become a symbol of Italian gastronomy and culinary excellence.
Parmesan cheese quickly gained popularity, and its fame spread throughout Italy and the Mediterranean. Its unique characteristics, such as its hard, grainy paste and imposing shapes, captivated the palates of many generations. To protect the authenticity and quality of Parmesan cheese, Duke Ranuccio I Farnese of Parma issued an official decree in 1612, establishing the criteria for producing authentic Parmesan cheese and safeguarding it from imitations. This decree laid the groundwork for the modern Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) certification, ensuring that only cheese from certain Italian provinces can bear the name Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Today, Parmigiano Reggiano continues to be a highly valued and regulated product. The process of making Parmesan cheese has been standardised, but the key characteristics that have made it beloved for centuries remain: hardness, sharpness, aroma, saltiness, and savoriness. The longer the Parmesan matures, the more intense its flavour becomes, with fruity notes giving way to nuttier flavours and a crumblier texture as it ages.
The longevity of Parmesan cheese is remarkable, with a 21-year-old wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano being considered one of the oldest and rarest cheeses in the world. This particular wheel, produced in 2000, was auctioned off for charity, with the proceeds going towards humanitarian causes and the construction of medical centres. Even older Parmesan cheeses have been recorded, with a 27-year-old wheel from 1998 being celebrated for its longevity and edibility.
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The cheese is safeguarded by origin protocols
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is one of the oldest cheeses in Italian tradition, with its roots in the ingenuity of Benedictine and Cistercian monks in the area between Parma and Reggio Emilia. The monks aimed to reduce waste and create a cheese with exceptional durability, which became an essential food for travellers and merchants. In an era when cheeses had a limited shelf life, the monks, with their visionary reclamation work, managed to intensify farming and increase milk production.
Parmigiano Reggiano is named after two of the areas that produce it, the Italian provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia. It is also produced in the part of Bologna west of the River Reno, Modena, and the part of Mantua (Lombardy) on the south bank of the River Po.
To safeguard this culinary treasure from imitations, Duke Ranuccio I Farnese of Parma issued an official decree on 7 August 1612. This landmark decision laid the foundation for the modern Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) certification, meticulously defining the criteria for producing authentic Parmesan Cheese. The decree specified the cheese's geographical origins, including the milk's provenance, thus safeguarding its authenticity and ensuring the perpetuation of this culinary legacy.
Parmigiano Reggiano is a protected designation of origin (PDO) for cheeses produced in these provinces under Italian and European law. Outside the EU, the name Parmesan is legally used for imitations, with only the full Italian name unambiguously referring to PDO Parmigiano Reggiano. In 2008, an EU court determined that the name Parmesan in Europe only refers to Parmigiano Reggiano and cannot be used for imitation Parmesan. Thus, in the European Union, Parmigiano Reggiano is a protected designation of origin (PDO); legally, the name refers exclusively to the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO cheese manufactured in a limited area in northern Italy.
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The oldest Parmesan was 27 years old
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is one of the oldest cheeses in the rich Italian tradition. Its roots can be traced back to the ingenuity of Benedictine and Cistercian monks in the area between Parma and Reggio Emilia. The monks aimed to reduce waste and create a cheese with exceptional durability, and the result was a culinary innovation that became a valuable ally in times of famine.
In June 2025, a 36kg wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano set a new record as the oldest Parmesan cheese, aged for 27 years and three months. This wheel of cheese was produced in February 1998 by Romano and Silvia Camorani at their dairy in Poviglio, a small town near Parma in Italy's northern Emilia-Romagna region. The Camoranis believed that the wheel's longevity was due to the loving care they provided, and they considered auctioning it off for charity, just like the previous record-holder, a 21-year-old Parmesan cheese made in 2000.
The winning bidder of the 27-year-old Parmesan cheese would have the option to purchase the entire wheel or buy it in pieces. The cheese was estimated to be worth more than €20,000 (£17,000) and was finally opened and sampled on the day it set the new record. According to Nicola Bertinelli, president of the Parmigiano Reggiano consortium, the opening of the Camorani wheel demonstrated how the product could remain amazing over time without the use of preservatives.
Parmigiano Reggiano is a protected designation of origin (PDO) name for true "parmesan." By definition, it must be aged for at least 12 months, but it often matures for longer—up to 48 months in some cases. The longer maturation intensifies the flavour and contributes to unique aromas. A 24- or 36-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano, for example, will have nuttier flavours and a crumblier texture with more cheese crystals.
The official certification for Parmigiano Reggiano is stamped into the central oval of the wheel, and all producers belong to the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano, which sets and enforces the standards for PDO. The consortium also sponsors marketing activities and plays a crucial role in safeguarding the historical integrity and unmatched quality of this beloved Italian cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
The oldest Parmesan cheese on record is a 27-year-old wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, produced in February 1998 by Romano and Silvia Camorani.
The cheese was produced in a small town called Poviglio, near Parma in Italy’s northern Emilia-Romagna region.
Parmigiano Reggiano is the official protected designation of origin (PDO) name for true "Parmesan" cheese. It is named after two of the areas that produce it, the Italian provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia.
A 21-year-old Parmesan is expected to have exceptional aromas and flavours. It will likely be very dry and crumbly, with an amber straw yellow colour. The aroma profile will include notes of leather, underwood, truffle, and smoke.
