Patrick Oconnell
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese as it is colloquially known, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. While it is considered a quintessential American dish, its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Italy. The earliest recorded recipe for mac and cheese dates back to 1769, and the dish was popularized in the US by Thomas Jefferson, who fell in love with pasta during his time in France and served mac and cheese at a state dinner in 1802. During the Great Depression of the 1930s, Kraft released its boxed mac and cheese, which became a huge hit and further solidified the dish as an American staple.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Earliest known iteration of boxed macaroni and cheese | Created by a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri named Grant Leslie |
| First mass-produced boxed macaroni and cheese | Kraft Macaroni & Cheese, 1937 |
| Earliest mention of pasta and cheese together | 160 BCE, by Marcus Porcius Cato |
| Earliest written recipe | "De lesanis" in the 13th century book "Liber de Coquina" |
| Earliest English written recipe | "Makerouns" in "The Forme of Cury", 1390 |
| First recipe with bechamel sauce | "The Experienced English Housekeeper", 1769 |
| Introduction to the United States | By Thomas Jefferson, after visiting France |
| Introduction to Canada | By British immigrants |
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What You'll Learn
Mac and cheese's Italian origins
Mac and cheese, or macaroni and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. While it is considered a quintessentially American recipe, its origins can be traced back to ancient Italy.
The earliest mention of pasta and cheese being combined dates back to 160 BCE, when Marcus Porcius Cato, senator of the Roman Republic, wrote a treatise on running a country estate, "De Agri Cultura". Cato included recipes for ritual gatherings and holidays that brought together what could be construed as pasta and fresh cheese. One such recipe was called "placenta", made with layers of cheese packed between stacked sheets of whole grain dough.
In the 13th century, two anonymous Italian cookbooks, "Liber de coquina" and "Libro della cocina", contain recipes for layered pasta and cheese dishes. "Liber de coquina" features a recipe called "de lesanis", which food historians widely agree to be the first iteration of mac and cheese in writing. The recipe calls for sheets of lasagna pasta to be cut into 2-inch squares, assembled in many layers with cheese and seasonings, and then baked in the oven. This dish is believed to be an adaptation of lasagna.
In the following centuries, the dish continued to evolve and spread beyond Italy. A recipe called "makerouns" made it to England and was included in the 1390 compilation "The Forme of Cury", from the collected recipes used in the royal kitchen of Richard II. The recipe instructed the cook to take a thin sheet of dough, cut it into pieces, and place it in boiling water to cook. Grated cheese, melted butter, and spices were then added beneath and above the pasta, similar to a lasagna.
By the early 19th century, "macaroni" had come to mean dried tubular pasta to most people outside of Italy. The dish underwent a cultural transition, as it appeared in numerous cookbooks published in England and the United States. It was often referred to simply as "Macaroni" or with French-inspired titles like "To dress Macaroni a la Sauce Blanche". The Italian origin of the dish was slowly forgotten, and "Italian macaroni" began to refer to pasta dishes with stewed beef and tomatoes rather than cheese.
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How it travelled to England
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese', is believed to have originated in England in the 14th century. The earliest known recipe for the dish, or a version of it, can be found in the 1390 compilation, 'The Forme of Cury', a collection of recipes used in the royal kitchen of Richard II. The recipe, called "makerouns", instructed cooks to cut thin sheets of dough into pieces, boil them in water, and layer them with grated cheese and melted butter, much like a lasagna.
The dish travelled to France in the 16th century when Catherine de' Medici, the wife of King Henry II, brought her love of Italian cuisine with her. It quickly became popular among French royalty and was soon enjoyed by the wealthy throughout Europe. The dish was adapted to local tastes, with different cheeses and ingredients being used in each country.
In the 18th century, Thomas Jefferson, who had spent time in France, served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner. The menu was reported by Reverend Manasseh Cutler, who apparently was not fond of the cheesy macaroni casserole. In 1769, a recipe for macaroni and cheese was included in Elizabeth Raffald's book, 'The Experienced English Housekeeper'. Raffald's recipe was for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese, mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until golden.
In the 19th century, macaroni and cheese recipes appeared in several American cookbooks, including 'The Virginia House-Wife', written by Mary Randolph, a distant relative of Thomas Jefferson, in 1824. The recipe had three ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. Similar recipes appeared in cookbooks from the mid-19th century onwards, including the 1845 'Modern Cookery in All Its Branches' by Eliza Acton, and the 1861 'Book of Household Management' by Mrs Beeton.
In the 20th century, macaroni and cheese became popular in the United States and Canada, especially during the Great Depression and World War II when rationing was in place. It was during this time that the first boxed macaroni and cheese was created by a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, who combined non-perishable dried pasta with dried processed cheese. This led to the creation of Kraft Macaroni & Cheese in 1937, which became an immediate success and is now a staple dish in North America.
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Thomas Jefferson's role in its popularity in the US
Macaroni and cheese is a dish with a global presence and a long history, but its origins can be traced back to Italy, where it is believed to have emerged in the 13th century. The combination of pasta and cheese has a rich and varied journey, with influences from different cultures and regions. Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States, played a significant role in introducing and popularizing macaroni and cheese in the US.
Jefferson, a well-known epicure and connoisseur of Italian cuisine, first encountered the dish during his sojourn in Italy between 1784 and 1789. While serving as the American Minister to France, he developed a deep appreciation for Italian food and culture, which was then undergoing a period of culinary innovation and refinement. He was particularly fascinated by the pasta dishes of Naples, where macaroni was a staple, and he is known to have dined on macaroni pie, a precursor to the modern mac and cheese, during his travels.
Captivated by the unique taste and versatility of macaroni, Jefferson made it his mission to introduce the dish to his home country. In 1787, he wrote to his sister, Martha Jefferson Carr, expressing his enthusiasm for the dish and providing a detailed recipe for "Macaroni Pie." The recipe, which called for butter, cheese, pasta, and bread crumbs, resembled the traditional Italian dish that Jefferson had savored in Naples. This letter, now preserved in the Thomas Jefferson Foundation's archives, offers valuable insight into Jefferson's culinary interests and his role in introducing macaroni and cheese to the American culinary landscape.
Upon his return to the United States, Jefferson continued to promote the dish, serving it at presidential dinners and social gatherings. He is believed to have served a version of macaroni and cheese at a state dinner in 1802, marking one of the earliest known instances of the dish being presented in an official capacity in the US. Jefferson's culinary influence extended beyond the White House, as he also introduced the dish to his home state of Virginia, where it became a popular and beloved comfort food.
Jefferson's contribution to the popularity of macaroni and cheese in the US is undeniable. His appreciation for Italian cuisine and his willingness to experiment with new flavors left a lasting impact on American culinary traditions. The dish has since evolved, incorporating local ingredients and adaptations to suit American tastes, but Jefferson's role in introducing this comfort food to the nation remains a significant chapter in the history of American cuisine.
Today, macaroni and cheese is a staple in the US, enjoyed by people of all ages and backgrounds. It has undergone numerous transformations, from the addition of new ingredients to the creation of convenient, pre-packaged versions. While the dish has evolved to suit modern tastes and convenience, its roots can be traced back to Jefferson's initial introduction, a testament to the enduring appeal of this classic comfort food.
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The first boxed mac and cheese
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese', is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins trace back to cheese and pasta casseroles in medieval England. The earliest known recipe for mac and cheese dates back to 1769, when it was included in Elizabeth Raffald's book, 'The Experienced English Housekeeper'.
However, the first boxed mac and cheese was not introduced until the 20th century. In 1937, Kraft introduced boxed macaroni and cheese in the US and Canada. The product was an immediate success, particularly during World War II, when rationing was in effect. Two boxes of Kraft Dinner could be purchased for one rationing coupon, and it served as a substitute for meat and dairy. In 1943, 50 million boxes were sold. The original box was predominantly yellow, but in 1954, the colour changed to blue.
The idea for boxed mac and cheese came from a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, named Grant Leslie. Leslie began attaching grated cheese to boxes of pasta with a rubber band in an attempt to increase pasta sales. James Lewis Kraft, the founder of Kraft, did not invent the dish, but he was the first to receive a patent for processed cheese in 1916. He used the patent to build his business, boxing the pasta with processed cheese as an easy dinner with a long shelf life.
Over the years, Kraft has expanded its Macaroni & Cheese brand, introducing Easy Mac Cups in 2006, Macaroni & Cheese Crackers in 2007, and Homestyle Deluxe Macaroni & Cheese Dinner in 2010. The product is now available in a variety of compositions, including different flavours of powdered cheese sauce and pasta shapes.
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How it became popular in Canada
Macaroni and cheese, the ultimate comfort food, has a long and fascinating history that stretches back centuries and spans multiple continents. A dish that is so simple, yet so beloved, has naturally evolved and taken on cultural significance wherever it has travelled and been adopted. So, how did it become such a staple in Canada?
The origins of mac and cheese can be traced back to Italy and the late 13th century, where it was featured in a cookbook from this period. It then spread across Europe, with various countries putting their spin on it. One theory suggests that it was brought to Canada by Scottish immigrants, who were themselves influenced by Italian cuisine. This is supported by the fact that early Canadian cookbooks from the 19th century feature a Scottish-style recipe for "macaroni and cheese." These early recipes included typical Scottish ingredients like butter, eggs, and cream, and often included a crunchy topping, a feature that is still popular in modern-day recipes.
Over time, this dish became a staple in Canadian cuisine, with good reason. It is a hearty, filling meal, perfect for the cold Canadian winters, and it is versatile, lending itself to many adaptations with additional ingredients. It is also a relatively inexpensive meal to make, and with the availability of processed cheese in the early 20th century, it became even more affordable and accessible. During World War II, rationing meant that many Canadians turned to mac and cheese as a nutritious and satisfying meal that could be made with limited ingredients.
Its popularity continued to grow, and it became a go-to dish for potlucks, family gatherings, and everyday meals. It is a dish that is often associated with childhood and comfort, and its simplicity means that it is often one of the first meals that children learn to cook. Today, it remains a favourite in Canada, with many restaurants offering their take on this classic, from gourmet versions with unique ingredients to deep-fried mac and cheese balls.
So, while macaroni and cheese may have its roots in Italian cuisine, its journey to becoming a beloved part of Canadian food culture is an interesting one, shaped by immigration, cultural exchange, and the evolution of food production and accessibility. It is a true comfort food that continues to warm the hearts (and bellies) of Canadians from coast to coast.
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Frequently asked questions
Macaroni and cheese can be traced back to medieval England, with the earliest recorded recipe dating back to 1769.
Yes, Thomas Jefferson is credited with bringing mac and cheese to the US after trying it in either France or Italy. He served it at a state dinner in 1802.
Some sources suggest that mac and cheese can be traced back to Italy, with the 13th-century Italian cookbook, *Liber de Coquina*, including a recipe called de lasanis, which historians believe is the first mac and cheese recipe.
Mac and cheese became popular in the US during the Great Depression in the 1930s. Grant Leslie, a salesman from St. Louis, Missouri, created the first boxed mac and cheese by combining non-perishable dried pasta with dried processed cheese.
Kraft Dinner (KD) is the most popular brand of packaged macaroni and cheese, particularly in Canada.
