Bushra Griffith
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese' as it is colloquially known, is a beloved dish worldwide. Despite its popularity in the United States and Canada, the dish's origins trace back to ancient Italy and medieval England. The earliest written record of a pasta-and-cheese combination was found in two 13th-century cookbooks, Liber de coquina and Libro della cocina, which contained recipes for layered pasta and cheese dishes. Over the centuries, the dish evolved and made its way across the Atlantic, eventually becoming a staple in American cuisine.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Place of origin | Medieval England, Italy, or France |
| Date of origin | 13th century or 1348 AD |
| Originators | Cato, Thomas Jefferson, James Hemings |
| Introduction to the U.S. | 1789 by James Hemings |
| First written recipe | 1769 by Elizabeth Raffald |
| Earliest boxed version | 1937 by Kraft Foods |
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What You'll Learn
Medieval English roots
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese", is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Italy. The earliest known recipe for a dish resembling mac and cheese was found in an Italian cookbook from the 13th century, Liber de coquina, which contained a recipe for a layered pasta and cheese dish called "de lesanis". This dish was believed to be an adaptation of lasagna, with sheets of lasagna pasta cut into squares, layered with cheese and seasonings, and baked in the oven.
In medieval England, cheese and pasta casseroles were common, and these dishes likely contributed to the development of mac and cheese. The traditional English version of the dish is baked in the oven in a casserole dish, but it can also be prepared on the stovetop in a saucepan. One of the earliest known recipes for mac and cheese was included in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, The Experienced English Housekeeper. Raffald's recipe calls for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese (a Mornay sauce in French cooking) to be mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden.
The dish was also popular in other parts of Europe. In Switzerland, for example, a traditional dish called Älplermagronen, made of macaroni, cream, cheese, roasted onions, and sometimes potatoes, has been enjoyed since the 19th century.
Mac and cheese was introduced to the United States by James Hemings, an enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson, who learned about the dish while studying French culinary arts. Hemings created his own version of the dish, called "macaroni pie", which became popular in the US. The earliest known recipe for mac and cheese in an American cookbook was published in 1824 in The Virginia House-Wife, written by Mary Randolph.
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Early American popularity
While macaroni and cheese is now a staple of American cuisine, its roots can be traced back to ancient Italy. The earliest known recipe for a dish resembling macaroni and cheese can be found in the 13th-century Italian cookbook "Liber de Coquina," which contains a recipe for a layered pasta and cheese dish called "de lesanis" or "lasanis." This dish was likely an early iteration of lasagna, with sheets of pasta cut into squares, layered with cheese and seasonings, and baked in an oven.
However, the version of macaroni and cheese that is widely popular in the United States today is believed to have been introduced by James Hemings, an enslaved chef owned by Thomas Jefferson. In 1784, Jefferson brought Hemings to France, where he studied French cuisine for five years. Upon returning to the United States in 1789, Hemings introduced a dish called "macaroni pie," which was his spin on a traditional French favorite.
The popularity of macaroni and cheese in the United States can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, it was a relatively affordable dish that could be easily accessed by a broad section of society. Additionally, the factory production of its main ingredients, such as processed cheese, made it even more widely available and affordable. The dish was also featured in influential American cookbooks of the 19th century, such as "The Virginia House-Wife" by Mary Randolph in 1824, further contributing to its spread across the country. By the mid-1880s, cookbooks as far west as Kansas and Missouri included recipes for macaroni and cheese casseroles.
The convenience and versatility of macaroni and cheese also contributed to its popularity. It could be prepared in a sauce pan on the stovetop or baked in the oven, and it could be made with various types of cheese and additional ingredients. The dish became a classic in Black soul food cuisine, with the generational wisdom and experience of Black women in the United States contributing significantly to its popularity and establishment within the Soul Food canon.
During the Great Depression, the demand for processed cheese increased, and Kraft introduced boxed macaroni and cheese in 1937, which became a popular convenience food. Today, macaroni and cheese remains a beloved comfort food in the United States, with various inventive twists and interpretations available in both fast food and upmarket restaurants.
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Italian origins
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese' as it is colloquially known, is a pasta dish consisting of macaroni covered in a cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar. While the dish in its current form may be considered quintessentially American, its origins can be traced back to ancient Italy.
The first recorded instance of a mac-and-cheese-adjacent recipe was in the 13th century, in a book called 'Liber de Coquina', believed to be written by one French and one Italian author. The book featured a recipe called "de lesanis", which food historians agree is the first written iteration of mac and cheese. De Lesanis was an adaptation of lasagna: sheets of lasagna pasta were cut into 2-inch squares, assembled in layers with cheese and seasonings, and then baked in the oven. Another 13th-century cookbook, 'Libro della cocina', also contains a recipe for a layered pasta and cheese dish.
Over the centuries, the dish underwent many iterations and appeared in various cookbooks before becoming the modern mac and cheese we know today. The original Italian recipe calls for pasta to be tossed in a raw cheese mixture and then baked in layers in the oven, resulting in a delicious, cozy casserole.
While mac and cheese may have Italian roots, it was further developed and popularised in other parts of the world, particularly in England, France, Switzerland, Canada, and the United States.
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Soul food staple
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to cheese and pasta casseroles in medieval England, with similar recipes found in Italy as early as the 13th century.
The dish was popularised in the United States by James Hemings, an enslaved chef owned by Thomas Jefferson. Hemings was the first American to train in France as a chef, where he learned the recipe for macaroni and cheese. He introduced the dish to the US in 1789, after Jefferson brought him back from France. Hemings added his spin to the traditional French recipe, creating the American version of mac and cheese.
Over time, mac and cheese became a staple in the Soul Food canon, a genre that celebrates the foods that have sustained Black communities throughout American history. It was included in Mary Randolph's influential 1824 cookbook, 'The Virginia House-Wife', further cementing its popularity.
In the mid-20th century, packaged mixes for macaroni and cheese became popular, with Kraft launching its boxed version in 1937. Today, mac and cheese is a beloved comfort food worldwide, with various twists and inventive recipes concocted by chefs and home cooks alike.
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Packaged food pioneer
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to cheese and pasta casseroles in medieval England, with similar recipes found in Italy as early as the 13th century.
The earliest known iteration of boxed macaroni and cheese came from a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, named Grant Leslie. Leslie attached processed cheese produced by Kraft Foods to boxes of pasta with rubber bands in an attempt to increase pasta sales. However, the story of the first packaged mac and cheese also involves the Great Depression, when real cheese became a precious commodity, and Kraft's boxed version became a popular alternative.
During the Great Depression, Kraft figured out how to make powdered processed cheese, and in 1937, Kraft boxed mac and cheese hit the shelves. This innovation built upon the company's earlier success in selling processed cheese with pasta.
In the mid-20th century, packaged mixes for making macaroni and cheese at home became popular. These mixes allowed people to create the comfort food without using fresh, potentially expensive, ingredients. While the packaged mixes were convenient, many still preferred the taste of macaroni and cheese made from scratch.
Today, macaroni and cheese remains a beloved dish worldwide, with various twists and interpretations building upon the original combination of noodles and cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese', is believed to have originated in England, with roots in ancient Italy. The earliest known recipe for a pasta and cheese dish is from the 13th century, in a book called 'Liber de Coquina'.
The introduction of macaroni and cheese to the US is credited to James Hemings, an enslaved chef owned by Thomas Jefferson. Hemings studied French culinary arts and brought the dish to the US upon his return in 1789.
The key ingredients in traditional macaroni and cheese are macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. The cheese is often a Mornay sauce (Béchamel sauce with cheese) or cheddar sauce.
