Patrick Oconnell
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a popular dish worldwide, especially in the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. While the exact inventor of the dish is unknown, it has been widely speculated that it was introduced to the United States by James Hemings, Thomas Jefferson's enslaved chef. Hemings learned about the dish while studying French culinary arts in the late 1780s. The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese was found in an Italian cookbook from the 13th century, called Liber de Coquina or Book of Cooking, which included a recipe called de lasanis.
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What You'll Learn
Early recipes
Macaroni and cheese is a classic comfort food with a long history. While it is unclear exactly when the first recipe for this dish was created, there are several early recipes that provide insight into how it has evolved over time. Here is a look at some of those early recipes:
One of the earliest known recipes for macaroni and cheese can be traced back to the 13th century in Italy. This recipe, known as "makerouns", was essentially a pasta dough that was cut into small pieces and boiled in water. The cooked makerouns were then layered with cheese and butter and baked until golden. This early version of the dish already had some of the key elements of modern-day macaroni and cheese, such as pasta, cheese, and a baked format.
In the 18th century, a recipe for "macaroni and cheese" appeared in an English cookbook called "The Art of Cookery" by Hannah Glasse. This recipe called for macaroni to be boiled and then mixed with a variety of cheeses, including Parmesan, Cheddar, and Gruyere. The mixture was then seasoned with spices and baked in a dish until golden brown. This recipe is believed to be one of the first to specifically combine macaroni and cheese in a baked format.
Another early recipe for macaroni and cheese can be found in the 19th-century cookbook "A New System of Domestic Cookery" by Maria Rundell. This recipe had a similar approach to Hannah Glasse's, but with some notable differences. Rundell's recipe called for the macaroni to be boiled and then mixed with butter, cheese, and bread crumbs. The mixture was then seasoned with salt, pepper, and mustard before being baked in a dish.
In the United States, early recipes for macaroni and cheese began to appear in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. One such recipe, published in the Boston Cooking School Cook Book in 1884, called for macaroni to be boiled and then mixed with a white sauce made from butter, flour, and milk. Shredded cheese, typically Cheddar, was then added to the sauce, and the mixture was baked in a dish until golden. This recipe is believed to be one of the earliest known versions of the classic American-style macaroni and cheese.
Over time, numerous variations of macaroni and cheese have emerged, with different types of cheese, sauces, and additional ingredients being used. While the specific ingredients and preparation methods may vary, the fundamental combination of pasta and cheese remains the heart and soul of this beloved dish.
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Introduction to the US
Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese' as it is colloquially known, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in a cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Italy, with the earliest known recipe for a similar dish found in the 13th-century Italian cookbook 'Liber de Coquina' or 'Book of Cooking'. This recipe, called 'de lasanis', calls for sheet pasta to be cut into squares, cooked in water, and tossed with grated cheese, likely Parmesan.
In the United States, the dish is believed to have been introduced by James Hemings, an enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson, who learned about it while studying French culinary arts. Hemings created his own version of the dish, a "macaroni pie", which he introduced to the United States in 1789. The dish was further popularized by Jefferson, who likely served it to dinner guests during his presidency. The first recipe for macaroni and cheese in an American cookbook appeared in Mary Randolph's 1824 book 'The Virginia House-Wife'.
Over time, macaroni and cheese became a staple comfort food in the United States, with factory production of its ingredients making it accessible and affordable to a broad section of society. It has also gained popularity in other parts of the world, including Canada and the United Kingdom. In Canada, it is considered by some to be the national dish, and in the UK, it has risen in popularity in the 21st century, becoming widespread as both a meal and a side dish.
The dish has also evolved, with the introduction of boxed macaroni and cheese in the mid-20th century. In 1937, Kraft Foods launched its boxed mac and cheese, utilizing powdered processed cheese to increase pasta sales. Despite the convenience and popularity of boxed mac and cheese, many still prefer the traditional version made from scratch.
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Thomas Jefferson's role
While Thomas Jefferson is often associated with macaroni and cheese, he did not invent the dish. However, he did play a role in introducing it to the United States.
Jefferson was exposed to macaroni and cheese during his time in Europe. In 1784, he travelled to Paris, France, where he served as the United States minister until 1789. During this time, he became acquainted with macaroni and cheese, which was already a popular dish in France. Jefferson was intrigued by the dish and set out to learn more about it. He obtained a recipe for macaroni and cheese and also acquired a pasta maker, or "mould for making maccaroni," as well as ingredients such as macaroni and Parmesan cheese.
Jefferson brought his knowledge of macaroni and cheese back to the United States and introduced it to American society. In 1802, he served a macaroni pie at a state dinner, which was prepared by his enslaved chef, James Hemings. This dish was not well-received by all, as some guests found it too strong and spicy. Despite this, Jefferson's interest in macaroni and cheese helped to establish it as a dish in the United States.
It is important to note that James Hemings, who was trained in French cuisine, was instrumental in bringing macaroni and cheese to the United States. Hemings was an enslaved chef who cooked for Jefferson and accompanied him to France, where he learned about French culinary techniques, including macaroni and cheese. After returning to the United States, Hemings continued to cook for Jefferson and likely played a significant role in refining and popularising the dish within American cuisine.
While Jefferson's role in introducing macaroni and cheese to the United States is notable, it is important to recognise that the dish has a long and complex history. It has evolved over time and has been influenced by various cultures, including Italian, English, and French cuisines. Additionally, the popularity of macaroni and cheese in the United States is also attributed to the collective wisdom and experience of Black women, who played a crucial role in establishing it as a classic soul food dish.
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Cultural significance
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Italy. The dish has been described as "comfort food" and has a significant cultural presence in various parts of the world, including the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, and Switzerland.
In the United States, mac and cheese have a notable history, especially within Black culture and soul food cuisine. It is believed that the dish was introduced to the country by James Hemings, an enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson, who learned about it while studying French culinary arts. Hemings's version of the dish was later commercialised by Kraft in 1937. In the Antebellum South, mac and cheese were considered a weekend and celebration food. Over time, it has become a staple in Black communities and is often served at family reunions and other gatherings. The dish is viewed as a source of cultural pride and has been elevated to an iconic American food due to its affordability and ease of preparation.
In Canada, macaroni and cheese is also immensely popular and is considered by some to be the country's national dish, even ahead of poutine. Kraft Dinner, a packaged version of the dish, is the most popular brand in Canada, with Canadians purchasing nearly 25% of the global sales. The dish's popularity in Canada can be traced back to British immigrants and their influence on Canadian cuisine.
In the United Kingdom, macaroni cheese, as it is known locally, has seen a rise in popularity in the 21st century. It is now widely available as a meal or side dish in both fast-food establishments and upscale restaurants. The earliest recorded recipe for mac and cheese in the UK can be found in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, "The Experienced English Housekeeper."
In Switzerland, a traditional dish called Älplermagronen (Alpine herder's macaroni) is made with macaroni, cream, cheese, roasted onions, and sometimes potatoes. This dish is a speciality of the Swiss Alps and is often served with apple sauce. The dish is believed to have originated in the 19th century, and the earliest known iteration of boxed macaroni and cheese also came from Switzerland.
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Commercial production
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese", is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. It is believed to have originated in medieval England, with recipes for similar pasta and cheese dishes appearing in Italian cookbooks as early as the 13th century.
In the mid-20th century, packaged mixes of macaroni and cheese that could be prepared in a sauce pan became popular. These mixes were high in carbohydrates, calories, fat, and salt, but also provided a source of protein. One of the earliest iterations of boxed macaroni and cheese came from a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, named Grant Leslie, who attached processed cheese to boxes of pasta with rubber bands. Leslie was later hired by Kraft Foods, which began producing Kraft Macaroni & Cheese (known as Kraft Dinner or KD in Canada) in 1937. It became an immediate success in the US and Canada during the economic hardships of the Depression, and its popularity continued to grow during World War II due to rationing. Today, Kraft Macaroni & Cheese is still one of the most popular brands of packaged macaroni and cheese, along with Boston Market, Michelina's, Cracker Barrel, and Stouffer's.
In addition to boxed mixes, frozen and canned macaroni and cheese are also available, as well as microwavable containers and deli meat containing macaroni and processed cheese bits. The dish has also seen a resurgence in popularity with the rise of specialty mac and cheese restaurants, like S'Mac in New York City, which offer unique twists on the classic recipe. In the United Kingdom, macaroni and cheese has become widespread as a meal and as a side order in both fast food and upmarket restaurants.
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Frequently asked questions
It is believed that macaroni and cheese was invented in England, though it likely has Italian roots. The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese was found in an Italian cookbook from the 13th century.
It is believed that macaroni and cheese was brought to the United States by James Hemings, an enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson. Hemings learned about the dish while studying French culinary arts.
Macaroni and cheese became popular in the United States when it was served to the country's elite at a state dinner hosted by Thomas Jefferson at the White House. It was also included in influential cookbooks of the 19th century, such as Mary Randolph's "The Virginia House-Wife."
Boxed macaroni and cheese was first introduced by Kraft in 1937. The product was created by attaching processed cheese to boxes of pasta in an effort to increase pasta sales.
