Frederic Melton
Wisconsin has a long history of cheese production and is widely associated with cheese and the dairy industry. In 2017, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) banned the use of wooden boards to age cheese, citing unsanitary conditions and listeria contamination. This sparked outrage within Wisconsin's artisan cheese community, with many arguing that aging cheese on wooden boards is safe when properly cleaned and maintained. The Wisconsin legislature has faced pressure from the Wisconsin Dairymen's Association and other industry groups to protect the state's cheese industry and its traditions, including the use of wooden cheese boards.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Reason for FDA's stance on wooden cheese boards | Unsanitary conditions and listeria contamination |
| Year of FDA's statement banning wooden boards | 2017 |
| Weight of cheese on wooden boards in Wisconsin | 20 million pounds |
| Year of Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research's paper on wooden boards | 2013 |
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What You'll Learn
- The FDA banned the use of wooden boards for cheese aging
- The Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association said 20 million pounds of cheese rest on wooden boards in Wisconsin
- The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research found wooden boards safe for cheese aging
- The FDA's decision was due to a New York cheese company being cited for listeria contamination
- The FDA faced backlash and eventually retracted their statement
The FDA banned the use of wooden boards for cheese aging
This decision had a significant impact on cheesemakers, particularly small businesses and artisans, who argued that wood has natural antibacterial properties and is essential for the unique flavour and smell of certain cheeses. The ban also raised concerns about the potential financial burden of replacing wooden shelves and the potential impact on international trade, as many European cheeses are aged on wooden boards.
In response to the backlash, the FDA faced pressure from lawmakers and the cheese industry to reconsider its stance. Representative Peter Welch of Vermont proposed an amendment to prohibit the FDA from spending money to enforce the ban. Additionally, the American Cheese Society and the Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research asserted that aging cheese on properly cleaned and maintained wooden boards is safe.
Ultimately, the FDA backed away from its initial statement, demonstrating the power of the industry and its supporters to influence regulatory decisions. This incident highlights the complex dynamics between government regulation, public health, and the interests of small businesses and artisans in the food industry.
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The Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association said 20 million pounds of cheese rest on wooden boards in Wisconsin
Wisconsin has a long history of cheesemaking, dating back to the nineteenth century. In 2019, the state produced 3.36 billion pounds of cheese in over 600 varieties, accounting for 27% of all cheese made in the country. Several cheese varieties, including Colby, brick, and cold pack, originated in Wisconsin.
In 2014, the Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association stated that 20 million pounds of cheese rest on wooden boards in Wisconsin. This statement was made in response to a decision by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to prohibit the use of wooden boards in the cheese-aging process. The FDA cited concerns about sanitation and listeria contamination, which sparked outrage within the Wisconsin cheese-making community.
The Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association and other industry experts argued that aging cheese on wooden boards is safe, provided that the boards are cleaned and maintained properly. They also highlighted the unique flavor and smell that the cultures on the wooden boards imparted to the cheeses, particularly in the case of Limburger cheese, which is only produced in the United States in Monroe, Wisconsin.
The controversy led to protests from elected officials and the cheese-making community, and the FDA ultimately backed away from its initial statement. The FDA agreed to work with artisan cheese producers to determine whether certain types of cheeses could be safely aged on wooden shelving.
The use of wooden boards for aging cheese is permitted in Wisconsin as long as producers follow the protocols approved by the state's Department of Agriculture, Trade, and Consumer Protection. This decision recognizes the importance of cheesemaking to Wisconsin's economy and cultural heritage.
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The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research found wooden boards safe for cheese aging
The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research has stated that wooden boards are safe for cheese aging. This conclusion was reached after a thorough investigation of the process and its effects. The Center's findings were published in a paper in 2013, which detailed the safe use of wooden boards in cheesemaking. The paper highlighted the benefits of wood boards on cheese ripening and rind formation, concluding that the use of wooden boards does not present any danger of contamination by pathogenic bacteria when properly cleaned and maintained.
The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research's findings contradicted the Food and Drug Administration's (FDA) stance on the issue. The FDA had previously banned the use of wooden boards for cheese aging, deeming it an unsanitary practice. This decision was met with outrage from the Wisconsin artisan cheese community, who argued that aging cheese on wooden boards was a traditional and safe practice when proper cleaning procedures were followed.
The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research's support for the safe use of wooden boards was crucial in defending the traditional cheese-aging process. The Center's findings provided scientific evidence that proper cleaning and maintenance could eliminate any contamination risks associated with wooden boards. This evidence helped to protect the time-honored craft of artisan cheesemaking in Wisconsin and ensured the unique flavor and quality of cheeses aged on wooden boards.
The use of wooden boards for cheese aging has a long history in Wisconsin and other traditional cheesemaking regions. Artisan cheesemakers value the impact of wooden shelves on cheese rind development and the overall organoleptic qualities of aged cheeses. The formation of a biofilm on the wood surface is considered beneficial, contributing to the distinct character of the cheese.
The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research's stance on wooden boards for cheese aging is a testament to their commitment to scientific research and the preservation of traditional cheesemaking practices. By conducting thorough investigations and sharing their findings, the Center plays a vital role in shaping policies and practices that affect the dairy industry in Wisconsin and beyond. Their work ensures that cheesemakers can continue to uphold the highest standards of quality and safety in their craft.
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The FDA's decision was due to a New York cheese company being cited for listeria contamination
The popularity of Wisconsin's cheese rose in the 1910s, and by 1919, the state produced over 63% of all cheese made in the United States. Wisconsin became the largest producer of cheese in the country in the early 1900s, and in 2019, it produced 3.36 billion pounds of cheese in more than 600 varieties, accounting for 27% of all cheese made in the US that year.
In March 2018, the FDA called the long-standing practice of aging cheese on wooden boards unsanitary, citing several New York operations for listeria contamination. The FDA issued a statement banning the use of wooden boards, causing an uproar among Wisconsin's artisan cheese community. This decision was due to a New York cheese company, Vulto Creamery, being cited for unsanitary conditions and listeria contamination. The company and its owner, Johannes Vulto, pleaded guilty to charges related to cheese linked to a 2016-2017 outbreak of listeriosis, caused by Listeria monocytogenes. The outbreak resulted in eight hospitalizations and two deaths.
The FDA's stance on wooden boards threatened the production of Limburger cheese in the United States, as the cultures on the wooden boards contribute to the unique flavor and smell of the cheese. However, due to significant backlash, the FDA retracted its statement, and the Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association estimated that at least 20 million pounds of cheese rest on wooden boards in Wisconsin.
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The FDA faced backlash and eventually retracted their statement
Wisconsin has a long history of cheese production and is widely associated with cheese and the dairy industry. In 2017, the FDA issued a statement banning the use of wooden boards for aging cheese, citing unsanitary conditions and listeria contamination in some New York cheesemakers. This sparked a major backlash from Wisconsin's artisan cheese community, with many arguing that the practice of aging cheese on wooden boards was safe, as long as the boards were cleaned and maintained properly. The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research published a paper in 2013 supporting this view, concluding that the use of wooden boards does not present any danger of contamination as long as a thorough cleaning procedure is followed. The American Cheese Society also asked the FDA to rethink its decision.
Facing intense criticism, the FDA ultimately retracted its statement. The retraction was a relief for Wisconsin's cheese industry, which heavily relies on the use of wooden boards for aging cheese. At least 20 million pounds of cheese in Wisconsin were aged on wooden boards at the time of the FDA's statement. The owner of the Chalet Cheese Cooperative in Monroe, the only American producer of Limburger cheese, emphasized the unique flavor and smell that the wooden boards imparted on their cheeses. He also noted that there was no alternative to wooden boards that would achieve the same effect.
The FDA's initial stance on wooden cheese boards threatened to upend Wisconsin's cheese industry and sparked a broader debate about the safety and benefits of using wooden boards for aging cheese. The retraction allowed Wisconsin cheesemakers to continue their traditional practices and highlighted the importance of balancing food safety regulations with the preservation of cultural and culinary traditions.
While the FDA's concerns about sanitation and listeria contamination were valid, the agency's decision-making process also highlighted the need to consider the expertise and input of local cheesemaking communities and industry organizations. The incident demonstrated the complex nature of food safety regulations and the potential impact on regional culinary traditions and industries.
The backlash and eventual retraction of the FDA's statement regarding wooden cheese boards showcased the power of industry advocacy and the importance of collaboration between regulatory agencies and local communities. It also underscored the unique cultural and historical significance of cheesemaking in Wisconsin, where it is deeply intertwined with the state's identity and economic vitality.
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Frequently asked questions
The Wisconsin Legislature wanted to use wooden cheese boards because they believed that the cultures on the wooden boards added a unique flavor and smell to the cheeses. Additionally, they argued that using wooden boards for cheese ripening or aging is safe as long as the boards are cleaned and maintained properly.
The FDA initially banned the use of wooden boards for cheese aging, citing sanitation and listeria concerns. However, after facing significant backlash from the artisan cheese community and organizations like the American Cheese Society, the FDA backed away from its stance.
There is no known alternative to wooden boards that would create the same effect on the flavor and smell of the cheese.
The FDA's initial decision to ban wooden cheese boards sparked outrage within Wisconsin's artisan cheese community, with many fearing that it would lead to the end of certain cheese varieties, such as Limburger cheese. The decision also prompted discussions and research into the safety and effects of wooden boards on cheese aging, with organizations like the Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research publishing papers in support of the practice.
