Andy Montoya
Wine and cheese are two of the most beloved indulgences in the world of gastronomy. Both have a wide range of varieties and are known for their complex and unique flavours. While some wines and cheeses are celebrated for their pungent and funky flavours, others are considered faulty when exhibiting similar characteristics. For instance, the presence of the chemical compound 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) in wine, often resulting from certain cleaning formulas used on barrels, pallets, or corks, can give it an unpleasant odour reminiscent of wet cardboard or a wet dog. On the other hand, cheesemakers meticulously craft washed-rind cheeses to develop a distinctive set of bacteria, resulting in a pungent aroma and flavour profile that enthusiasts savour. This contrast begs the question: what differentiates a desirable funky flavour from an undesirable one? Are there objective standards for these subjective sensory experiences?
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What You'll Learn
The role of microbes, bacteria and yeast in winemaking
The aroma of wine is a complex interplay of various factors, including the type of grapes, fermentation process, and ageing. While most people appreciate the fruity or floral notes in wine, some unique characteristics can be attributed to the presence of microbes, bacteria, and yeast. These microorganisms play a significant role in winemaking, contributing to the distinct flavours and aromas that wine enthusiasts seek or try to avoid.
Microbes, bacteria, and yeast are living organisms that can significantly influence the character and quality of wine. During fermentation, these organisms interact with the sugars and other compounds in the grape must, converting them into alcohol and producing a range of aromatic compounds. While some of these compounds contribute positive attributes to the wine, others can be considered flaws or faults if they become too dominant.
One of the most well-known microbes in winemaking is Brettanomyces, commonly known as "Brett." Brett is a wild yeast that can inadvertently find its way into wine and leave its distinctive mark. It produces a range of aromatic compounds, from subtle clove and spice notes to more pungent smells like horse manure or sweaty leather. While some wine critics appreciate the complexity that Brett can bring, others view it as a flaw.
In addition to Brett, other bacteria and microbes play a role in winemaking. Some sommeliers refer to a "gerbil cage" aroma as "mousy," which is often found in natural wines. Another telltale sign of microbial activity is the presence of a "hay bail" aroma, known as "ropiness," indicating an overabundance of wild microbes. These microbes, in controlled quantities, can add appealing complexity to the wine, but if they become too dominant, they can overwhelm the other flavours and be considered a fault.
The role of microbes, bacteria, and yeast in winemaking is a delicate balance. While they contribute to the unique characteristics of certain wines, their presence must be carefully managed to avoid undesirable flavours and aromas. Winemakers employ various techniques, such as controlled fermentation conditions and specific strains of yeast, to guide the process and create the desired profile for their wines. Ultimately, the presence of these microorganisms adds to the complexity and diversity of flavours that wine enthusiasts seek.
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Oxidization and its impact on wine
Oxidation is an unavoidable part of the winemaking process. It occurs when wine comes into contact with oxygen, which can happen at various stages of production and consumption. For instance, during the pressing process, there is significant exposure to air, while fermentation occurs with virtually none. Winemakers may also intentionally expose wine to oxygen to modify its characteristics. This can include removing vegetal notes and increasing colour stability.
The word "oxidized" typically carries a negative connotation when associated with wine. It suggests that the wine has prematurely matured and lost vibrancy in both colour and flavour. White wines begin to brown, while reds lose their ruddy hue and turn russet or orange. Oxidation can also cause a flat taste in wine that is past its drinking window. However, oxidation is not always detrimental. It can be used to create specific flavours and conform to particular styles. For example, oxidation can soften tannic reds, impart nutty, earthy and roasted flavours, and develop primary flavours into deeper secondary and tertiary notes.
Oxidation can occur both during and after the winemaking process. Before a bottle is uncorked, wine may encounter oxidation through contact with air during production, in the barrel while ageing, or through oxygen that enters via the cork. Once a bottle is opened, oxidation occurs much faster as the wine is exposed to the oxygen in the surrounding air. Decanting and swirling will speed up these reactions, allowing the wine to "open up" and develop new flavours more quickly.
To prevent unwanted oxidation, winemakers can reduce the wine's exposure to air during crushing and fermentation. Sulfur dioxide is commonly added to wine to prevent spoilage and slow down the oxidation process. However, wines kept too far from oxygen can undergo "reduction," resulting in the production of hydrogen sulfide gas, which can cause a wine to smell like a hard-boiled egg yolk.
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Sulphur compounds and their effect on wine aroma
Sulphur is added in small amounts to almost all wines to stabilize them. Sulphur dioxide (SO2) occurs naturally in wine as a result of fermentation and helps to prevent spoilage. However, white wine has very little tannin compared to red, so winemakers compensate by adding more SO2 to white wine. A young white wine might release a spurt of sulfurous gas that tickles your nose right after the bottle is opened. The fix is time and exposure to oxygen; swirling helps this process along.
Another sulfur compound found in wine is called dihydrogen sulfide (H2S), which is a naturally occurring byproduct of stressed fermentations. Sulfur compounds smell smoky, like a struck match or cooked cabbage. Most of these smells burn off about 15–20 minutes after opening a bottle. Decanting and stirring with silver can help reduce the offending flavor and make the compounds less detectable.
Dimethyl disulfide, dimethyl sulfide, and ethane thiol are other sulfur compounds that can be found in wine. These compounds can make the wine smell like truffles, mushrooms, radishes, green olives, rotten eggs, onions, cooked cabbage, canned corn, or burnt rubber. At low levels, these compounds are considered positive traits and increase the complexity of the wine. However, at higher levels, they can become faults, giving the wine a pungent and off-putting aroma.
Finally, Brettanomyces (Brett) is a wild yeast that can find its way into wine and cause it to reek. It produces some particularly funky aromas that range from subtle clove and spice to pungent smells of horse barn, medicinal Band-Aid, and sweaty leather saddles. Some people enjoy the complexity that Brett adds to wine, while others do not.
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How temperature and storage impact wine aroma
Temperature and storage conditions have a significant impact on wine's aroma and flavour. The ideal temperature for storing wine is widely considered to be around 13°C or 55°F, with a slight fluctuation of one degree accepted. Storing wine at this temperature ensures a graceful ageing process, allowing the wine to develop complex flavours and aromas over time.
When wine is stored at a consistent, cool temperature, it can age more effectively and develop a broader range of flavours and scents. Conversely, storing wine in fluctuating temperatures or exposing it to heat can cause it to spoil and lose its potential for ageing. For example, heat can cause the wine to caramelize and compromise the bottle's seal, leading to oxidation and an acrid, unpleasant smell.
Ultraviolet (UV) light is another crucial factor in wine storage. UV light can damage wine by causing the degradation of stable organic compounds, which contribute to the wine's aroma, flavour, and structure. Therefore, it is essential to store wine in a dark place to prevent deterioration.
The relative humidity of the storage area is also a consideration, especially with traditional cork seals. High humidity can exacerbate the rate of evaporation from the bottle if the cork is defective.
In addition to temperature and light, the bottling conditions and storage time can also influence the aroma composition of wine. For example, the concentration of certain aroma compounds, such as acetate esters, decreases faster at higher storage temperatures. The interaction between different compounds, such as β-damascenone and SO2, can also affect the aroma, yielding mostly odourless products.
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The difference between stinky cheese and stinky wine
Stinky cheese and stinky wine are both products of microbial activity. However, the key difference lies in the level of control desired by cheesemakers and winemakers during the production process.
Cheesemakers intentionally manage the funky flavours in cheese. For instance, washed-rind cheeses develop a unique set of bacteria, while Penicillium molds injected into newly formed cheeses create blue cheeses such as Roquefort. Cheesemakers aim for consistency, carefully introducing specific microbes to achieve the desired flavour profile while preventing unwanted microbes from entering the mix.
On the other hand, winemakers tend to have a more hands-off approach, allowing wild microbes and yeasts to impart their unique characteristics to the wine. While some winemakers intentionally encourage certain microbes, most undesirable aromas in wine are considered faults resulting from uncontrolled microbial activity. For example, the compound 2,4,6-trichloranisole (TCA) found in wine can come from cleaning formulas used on wood, resulting in an unpleasant smell similar to wet cardboard or a wet dog. Another compound, brettanomyces (brett), can inadvertently find its way into wine, leaving aromas ranging from sweat to used bandages.
While both stinky cheese and stinky wine result from microbial activity, cheesemakers strive for consistency and control, whereas winemakers often embrace the wild and unpredictable nature of fermentation, even if it sometimes leads to undesirable aromas and flavours.
Additionally, it's worth noting that the perception of "stinky" can vary between individuals. Some people are more sensitive to volatile acidity and sulphur compounds in wine, which can contribute to strong aromas that some may find unpleasant.
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Frequently asked questions
The presence of Brettanomyces, a wild yeast strain, in wine can result in aromas that resemble blue cheese, smoked meats, leather, vinyl, or sweaty horses.
The "mousy" aroma in natural wines is often caused by bacteria involved in the winemaking process.
The chemical compound 2,4,6-trichloranisole (TCA), which can come from certain cleaning formulas used on wood such as barrels, pallets, or corks, can cause wine to have a dank odor.
Sulfur compounds, such as dihydrogen sulfide (H2S), which occur naturally during fermentation, can give wine a smoky or cooked cabbage-like aroma.
If left too long, washed-rind cheeses can develop an ammonia smell.
