Cheese-Making Before Cultures: Ancient Techniques, Modern Taste

how cheese was made before cultures

Cheese is a beloved dairy product that comes in a variety of flavours, textures, and forms. The production of cheese predates recorded history, beginning over 7,000 years ago. Humans likely developed cheese by accident as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made from ruminants' stomachs, which contain rennet, encouraging curdling. For preservation purposes, cheese-making may have also involved pressing and salting curdled milk. Today, the process of making cheese involves separating milk into solid curds and liquid whey by acidifying the milk and adding rennet. The addition of bacteria cultures is also common in the cheesemaking process, influencing texture and flavour. However, before the use of cultures, cheesemakers relied on natural techniques, such as using raw milk, which can be left at room temperature to turn into clabber, or curdled milk, that can be used to make cheese.

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Milk was stored in animal stomachs, which contain rennet, causing curdling

The production of cheese is believed to have begun well over 7,000 years ago, though there is no conclusive evidence indicating where it originated. It is believed that cheese was discovered by accident, as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made of ruminants' stomachs. These stomachs contain rennet, which causes milk to curdle, and their use would have encouraged curdling. Curdling milk in an animal's stomach also made solid and better-textured curds, which could easily have led to the conscious addition of rennet.

Animal skins and internal organs were already being used to store and transport a variety of foodstuffs, and milk was likely stored in a similar way. The inherent supply of rennet in these animal stomachs, combined with the heat of the sun, caused the milk to separate into curds and whey. Rennet is derived from animal slaughter and is used to separate milk into solid curds and liquid whey. The solid curds are then separated from the liquid whey and pressed into finished cheese.

Hard, salted cheese is likely to have accompanied dairying from the outset, as it is the only form in which milk can be kept in hot climates. Dairying existed around 4,000 BC in the grasslands of the Sahara, and cheese was produced in Europe, where the cooler climate meant less salt was required for preservation. With less salt and acidity, the cheese became a suitable environment for useful microbes and moulds, which give aged cheeses their flavour.

Over time, cheesemakers became more knowledgeable about the milk that was made into cheese for longer storage. They observed that good bacteria continued to be separated from the bad, and this good bacteria began to embed itself in dairy buildings, equipment, and even on the animals themselves. Cheesemakers then began to make farm-specific mother cultures from the milk that worked best for them.

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Curds were separated from the whey and pressed into cheese

The production of cheese is believed to have started well over 7,000 years ago, with the earliest evidence of cheese-making technology found at Neolithic sites in Poland from around 5000 BC. It is believed that cheese was discovered by accident as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made from ruminants' stomachs, which would have encouraged curdling due to their inherent supply of rennet.

The process of making cheese involves adding an acidic agent to heated milk, causing it to curdle and separate into curds (the solid part) and whey (the liquid part). Curds are formed when milk proteins tangle together into solid masses due to increased acidity. After the curds are formed, they are separated from the whey and pressed into cheese.

To separate the curds from the whey, the curdled milk is cut into squares, typically about 1 inch in size. This cutting process helps to release the whey. The curds are then carefully spooned into a colander or sieve and left to drain for a couple of hours. The colander is placed over another container to collect the dripping whey. Putting something heavy on top of the curds can help speed up the process and make the cheese firmer. After 2-3 hours, the whey will have stopped dripping, and you will be left with a solid mass of cheese.

The handling of curds is crucial and can significantly impact the final quality, flavour, texture, and appearance of the cheese. For example, if the curds are cut too small, they may lose moisture too quickly, and if they are overcooked, the cheese may become dry and crumbly. Additionally, the curds can be pressed and salted to aid in preservation, particularly in warmer climates where cheese is more prone to spoilage.

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Salt was added to cheese for preservation and flavour

Salt is an essential ingredient in cheese production, influencing various aspects of the cheese-making process and the final product. One of the most important functions of salt in cheese-making is its role as a natural preservative. Salt helps to extend the shelf life of cheese by reducing its moisture content, creating a natural rind and preventing the growth of spoilage bacteria and moulds. This is especially important in hot climates, where hard salted cheese is the only form in which milk can be preserved. Salt also helps to preserve the delicate balance of microbes, encouraging the growth of beneficial bacteria while inhibiting the growth of undesirable organisms. This balance is crucial in more delicate cheeses that require careful monitoring of the fermentation process.

Salt also plays a key role in controlling the fermentation process during cheese-making. By regulating the activity of the bacterial cultures that help acidify the milk, salt prevents them from becoming too active or sluggish. The right level of salt ensures a steady fermentation rate and helps create a consistent product. During the early stages of cheese-making, when the milk is curdled and the curds are formed, salt slows down the fermentation process slightly.

In soft cheeses such as brie or cream cheese, salt is usually added after the curd is formed but before it is pressed or aged. This ensures a smooth, creamy texture without making the cheese too watery. In hard cheeses like Parmesan or aged cheddar, salt encourages the curd to expel more whey, resulting in a denser, firmer texture that allows the cheese to age properly. Salt also affects the solubility of proteins and the moisture content of cheese, influencing the rheology, texture, and changes that occur during cooking.

Salt is added to cheese at a very early stage, either by mixing it into the dry curd mass before it is moulded or by applying it to the outside of the cheese once it has been moulded. As well as contributing to the final taste, the addition of salt helps stop the growth of cheese-making cultures (lactic acid and starter bacteria) once a certain acidity and texture have been achieved in the curd. Salt also enables cheesemakers to encourage certain moulds to dominate. For example, blue mould tolerates higher salt environments, and its growth can be encouraged by adding salt.

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Bacteria in the air and on equipment was used to start the fermentation process

The production of cheese predates recorded history, beginning well over 7,000 years ago. While there is no conclusive evidence indicating where cheesemaking originated, it likely began through the accidental storage and transportation of milk in bladders made of ruminants' stomachs, as their inherent supply of rennet would encourage curdling.

Before the use of cultures, bacteria in the air and on equipment were used to start the fermentation process. As generations passed, good bacteria continued to separate from bad bacteria, and the more prominent good bacteria began to embed itself in dairy buildings, equipment, and even on the animals themselves. At this point, cheesemakers were making farm-specific mother cultures from the milk that worked best for them. Over time, shepherds became more knowledgeable about the milk that was made into cheese for longer storage.

The process of making cheese involves separating milk into solid curds and liquid whey by acidifying (souring) the milk and adding rennet. The acidification can be achieved by adding an acid, such as vinegar, or using starter bacteria, which convert milk sugars into lactic acid. The same bacteria also play a crucial role in the flavour of aged cheeses. Most cheeses are made with starter bacteria from the Lactococcus, Lactobacillus, or Streptococcus genera.

Some cheeses, such as feta and mozzarella, are made by adding buttermilk and Greek yoghurt to the milk. Other cheeses, like Camembert, can be made using wild culture or clabber, which is formed by leaving raw milk to sit at room temperature until it coagulates.

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Different bacteria and temperatures were used to create different flavours and textures

The production of cheese predates recorded history, with the earliest direct evidence for cheesemaking being excavated clay sieves (holed pottery) over seven thousand years old. It is believed that humans likely developed cheese by accident as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made of ruminants' stomachs, whose rennet would encourage curdling.

Lactobacilli and Streptococci are thermophilic cultures that can survive higher temperatures, ranging from 35–55 °C (95–131 °F). These temperatures are used to make hard cheeses and force more whey out of the cut curd. The higher temperatures also change the taste of the finished cheese, affecting both the bacterial culture and the milk chemistry.

Cheese can also be made using raw milk. By letting raw milk sit at room temperature, it will turn into clabber, which can be used to make cheese. This process can also be done with pasteurized milk, but it requires a few rounds of fermentation.

Salt is also an important component in cheesemaking, as it not only adds a salty flavour but also preserves the cheese, draws moisture from the curd, and firms the cheese's texture. Different amounts of salt are used depending on the climate, with cheeses produced in cooler climates requiring less salt for preservation.

Frequently asked questions

Cheese was likely developed by accident as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made from ruminants' stomachs, as the inherent supply of rennet would encourage curdling.

Rennet is derived from animal slaughter and is used to separate milk into solid curds and liquid whey.

Rennet, combined with the heat of the sun, caused the milk to separate into curds and whey. The curds could be pressed and salted for preservation, creating hard cheese that could be stored in hot climates.

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