Andy Montoya
Comte cheese is a semi-hard, Gruyère-style cheese with a fine, smooth texture and a buttery, creamy, nutty, and sharp flavour. It is renowned for its complex flavours and is the most produced AOC cheese in France. Comte is made in the Franche-Comté region of France and its production is done in a cooperative style, with the farmer, fruitière (cheese maker), and affineur (the one who ages the cheese) all working together and sharing in the profits. The cheese is produced by a chain reaction, with the people who raise the cows providing the milk. The milk is then warmed and rennet is added, causing it to coagulate and form curds. The curds are cut, stirred, and heated again before being placed into moulds and pressed to remove the whey. The moulded curds are then weighted and left to set before being placed in cool, humid caves to age for a minimum of four months.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of Cheese | Gruyère-style |
| Texture | Medium-hard, smooth |
| Taste | Buttery, creamy, nutty, sharp |
| Colour | Deep golden |
| Milk Source | Montbéliarde cows or French Simmental cows |
| Milk Type | Raw |
| Milk Quantity | Up to 600 litres (160 US gal) per cheese |
| Milk Processing | Coagulation with rennet, curdling, moulding, maturation |
| Shaping | Pressed into wheels |
| Aging | Minimum 4 months, ideally 12-14 months, up to 4 years |
| Aging Environment | Cool, humid caves in the Alps or Massif du Jura mountains |
| Grading | Based on appearance, rind quality, texture, and taste |
| Grading Score | Out of 20, with 1 point for overall appearance |
| Grading Label | Green casein label with a green bell logo for Comté Extra |
| Production Style | Cooperative |
| Production Location | Jura Mountains, France |
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What You'll Learn
Milk from cows that graze on hay and wildflowers
The cows that produce the milk for Comté cheese are typically Montbéliarde, as specified by the AOC regulations that govern the cheese's production. These cows are allowed to graze on fresh, natural feed, including hay and wildflowers, and are required to have a minimum of one hectare of space. The milk from these cows is raw and unpasteurised, preserving the full flavour and nutritional content.
The process of making Comté cheese begins with this raw milk, which is delivered directly from the farmhouse to local creameries called fruitières. The milk is then filtered and poured into large copper vats, where it is gently warmed and rennet is added to initiate coagulation. The milk is stirred and heated again for approximately 30 minutes before being placed into moulds to press out the whey.
After several hours, the moulds are opened, and the cheese is left to mature in cellars, first at the dairy for a few weeks and then elsewhere for several months. During this ageing process, the cheese is carefully monitored and maintained by ripening specialists called Maitres-Affineurs. The cheese is aged in cool, humid caves in the Alps, absorbing the naturally filtered moisture and developing its unique taste and aroma.
The final product is a flat, circular cheese with a brown, dusty rind and a yellow-pale interior. Comté cheese is known for its mild, slightly sweet flavour and creamy, nutty notes. The ageing process can affect the taste and texture of the cheese, with older cheeses developing sharper, more pungent flavours and a drier texture.
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Milk coagulation and curdling
The next step is the addition of rennet, an essential agent that induces milk coagulation. Rennet is derived from animal sources, making Comté cheese unsuitable for vegetarians. The milk and rennet mixture is stirred, and a "starter" portion is set aside in an incubator to be used in the subsequent batch of cheese. This practice is similar to the concept of a sourdough starter, where a portion of the previous batch is used to initiate fermentation in the next batch.
After adding rennet, the milk is left to rest in the copper vats. This resting period allows the milk to transform into a giant, quivering mass, resembling silky tofu. This critical phase is known as "caillage" or curdling. The milk coagulates and forms a firm curd, which is then carefully separated by skilled workers. The consistency of the curd is closely monitored to determine the optimal time for draining.
The curds are then cut into minuscule white grains, resembling rice or wheat grains in size. This step breaks down the curd and prepares it for the next stage. The curds are stirred again, and the mixture is heated for approximately 30 minutes. This heating process further cooks the curds and prepares them for moulding.
The moulding stage involves placing the curds into wheel-shaped moulds, which are then pressed to extract any excess whey. The moulded curds are weighted and left overnight to set and solidify. This setting period is essential for the subsequent ageing process.
Overall, the milk coagulation and curdling process in Comté cheese-making involves a series of precise steps, from warming and coagulating the milk to cutting, stirring, and moulding the curds. This intricate process forms the foundation for the iconic Comté cheese, contributing to its unique texture and flavour.
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Pressing curds into moulds
Pressing the curds into moulds is a crucial step in the production of Comté cheese. After the milk has been warmed and coagulated with the addition of rennet, it is then heated again for approximately 30 minutes. The contents are then placed into moulds, and the whey is pressed out. The curds are pressed into large, wheel-shaped moulds and weighted for an entire day to ensure all excess whey is removed.
The moulds are then opened after several hours, and the cheese is left to mature in cellars, initially for a few weeks at the dairy, and then for several months elsewhere. The affineur, or ripening specialist, will then take over the care of the cheese, which will mature for a minimum of four months, and sometimes up to four years. During this time, the cheese is kept in a carefully maintained environment with high humidity and a relatively low temperature.
The cheese is then graded and scored by inspectors on its appearance, the quality of its rind, texture, and taste. Only those cheeses that achieve a score of 12 or above can be sold under the Comté name. The longer the cheese has been aged, the more sought-after it is.
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Salting and maturing in cellars
Salting and maturing Comte cheese is a delicate process that requires careful attention to detail. Once the cheese has been moulded and pressed, it is then ready for salting and maturing. The cheese is first removed from its moulds and placed in a cold chamber, where they are turned and salted for 24 hours. After salting, the cheese is then transferred to the maturing cellars, where it will spend the next four to 24 months maturing in the dark caves of the Massif du Jura mountainsides. During this time, the cheese is carefully monitored and maintained by Maitres-Affineurs (ripening specialists).
The maturing process is crucial in developing the unique taste and aromatic nature of Comte cheese. The cool and humid caves of the Alps provide the perfect environment for the cheese to age and absorb the naturally filtered moisture from the cracks in the walls. This process can last anywhere from four months to two years, with the longest-ripened cheeses being the most sought-after.
The cellars used for maturing Comte cheese are typically located in the Jura Mountains, where the cheese production began more than ten centuries ago. The cooperative approach to cheese-making in this region ensures that each step of the process, from milk production to cheese ageing, is carefully monitored and of the highest quality. The affineur, or cheese ager, plays a crucial role in this process, working closely with the dairy farmer and cheese maker to ensure the final product is of the highest standard.
The maturing cellars are carefully maintained environments with high humidity and relatively low temperatures. The cheese wheels are kept in these conditions for a minimum of four months, with most Comte cheese being sold at 12 to 14 months of ageing. However, some cheeses can be aged for much longer, up to four years. This extended ageing process allows the cheese to develop sharper, more pungent notes and tiny crunchy pockets of crystallized amino acids, similar to a good Parmesan or Pecorino.
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Grading and labelling
The grading and labelling of Comté cheese is a meticulous process that ensures the quality and authenticity of this renowned French cheese. Each wheel of Comté undergoes a rigorous evaluation, and only those that meet the stringent standards are worthy of bearing the esteemed name.
The grading process begins with the cheese's appearance, both outside and inside. Experts scrutinise the wheel, evaluating the quality of its rind, the evenness of its colour, and the absence of defects. The texture of the cheese is also carefully assessed, ensuring a consistent and desirable consistency.
However, the true test lies in the taste. A panel of trained volunteer tasters, known as the "jury terroir," convenes to sample and discuss the cheese's flavour. This jury, composed of members from the Comté supply chain and the region, delves into the intricate nuances of the cheese's taste, aroma, and texture. Their evaluations are published bi-monthly in the newsletter "Les Nouvelles de Comté," providing valuable insights into the characteristics of the cheese.
The scoring system for Comté cheese is comprehensive. Each cheese is awarded a score out of 20 by inspectors, with specific allocations for various attributes. For instance, the highest possible score for overall appearance is 1 point, while the quality of the rind can garner up to 1.5 points. The internal appearance is worth 3.5 points, and the texture and taste are also given considerable weightage.
Cheeses that excel, scoring higher than 14 points, are bestowed with the prestigious Comté Extra label. This elite group is identified by a green casein label adorned with the recognisable logo of a green bell. These cheeses embody the pinnacle of Comté, showcasing exceptional quality and flavour.
Comté cheeses that score between 12 and 14 points are given a brown label and are simply named "Comté." They represent the standard-bearer for this variety of cheese, still offering a delightful taste and sensory experience. However, any cheese that scores only 1 or 2 points for taste (out of a possible 9) or falls below 12 points overall is prohibited from bearing the Comté name. These lesser-graded cheeses are sold for other purposes, often finding new life in alternative applications.
The labelling of Comté cheese is more than just a mark of quality; it is a testament to the cheese's heritage and origin. The casein label affixed to each wheel includes the date of production, providing transparency and traceability. This label also serves as a guarantee that the cheese has matured for at least four months, a mandatory period that allows the cheese to develop its distinctive character.
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Frequently asked questions
Comte cheese is made by warming milk in copper vats and adding rennet to make the milk coagulate and form a firm curd. The curd is then separated, cut into tiny grains, and stirred before being heated again for around 30 minutes. The contents are then placed into moulds and the whey is pressed out. After several hours, the mould is opened and left to mature in cellars, first for a few weeks at the dairy, and then over several months elsewhere.
The key ingredients in Comte cheese are raw milk from Montbéliarde cows, rennet, and salt. The milk must be transported to the site of production immediately after milking and only one heating of the milk is allowed, which must be during renneting. The milk may be heated up to 56 °C (133 °F). Salt may only be applied directly to the surface of the cheese.
Comte cheese must be aged for at least four months in the cool and humid caves of the Alps. Most Comte is sold at 12 to 14 months of aging, though some can be aged for much longer—up to four years. The cheeses that have undergone the longest ripening are very sought-after.
