Kamil Perry
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano Reggiano, has a rich history that dates back to the Middle Ages. Legend has it that Benedictine monks in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy first created this cheese around 900 years ago to extend the shelf life of the excess milk they produced. Over the centuries, its production spread beyond Italy to the rest of Europe, and eventually, the world. Today, Parmigiano Reggiano is a protected designation of origin (PDO) in the European Union, ensuring that all Parmesan cheese sold within the EU is manufactured in the Parma-Reggio area using traditional methods.
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What You'll Learn
Benedictine monks in the Middle Ages
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is a highly esteemed Italian cheese with a rich history dating back to the Middle Ages. The average American, when referring to Parmesan cheese, means Parmigiano Reggiano, but they are probably not consuming the authentic product.
Parmesan cheese was first crafted by Benedictine monks in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy. The monks had a surplus of milk and needed to find a way to extend its shelf life, so they pioneered a cheese-making process that would preserve the milk. The first official record of Parmesan cheese dates back to 1254, when a document noted that a noblewoman from Genoa traded her house for an annual supply of 53 pounds of cheese from Parma. However, the first evidence of the Parmesan cheese trade goes back to 1200, when a notarized acquisition of Caseus Parmensis (cheese of Parma) was made in Genoa.
The monks used three simple ingredients: salt, calf rennet, and milk. They mixed milk with salt and heated it to 96°F, then added the calf rennet and heated the mixture to 131°F, at which point a hard mass would form at the bottom. This mass would later be formed into the iconic Parmesan wheel.
During the 14th and 15th centuries, Benedictine monks held a monopoly over the trade of Parmesan cheese and exported it all over Europe. By the 17th century, various cheesemakers across Italy began producing the famous cheese, leading the Duke of Parma, Ranuccio I Farnese, to trademark the word "Parmigiano" to ensure that only Parmesan cheese produced in its original territory could be sold under that name.
In 1954, Italy introduced a law to protect food products associated with specific areas of the country, and Parmesan was one of the protected foods. In 1996, Parmesan cheese was declared a product of protected designation of origin by the European Union, meaning that only cheese produced in the provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia and limited areas in surrounding provinces could be legally called "Parmesan".
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The Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano
Parmigiano Reggiano, also known as the "king of cheeses", has a rich history that dates back to the Middle Ages. The first record of this cheese is from 1254, and it is believed that Benedictine monks in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy first created it to preserve excess milk. Over the centuries, its production spread beyond the Parma and Modena areas to other Italian provinces.
History and Formation:
The Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano, or the Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium, was founded in 1928. However, the journey towards establishing this consortium began much earlier. As Parmigiano Reggiano gained popularity, imitators emerged, leading Italy to issue a decree to protect the cheese's authenticity.
In 1909, representatives from the Chambers of Commerce of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and Mantua met to discuss a joint solution for marking the hard cheese produced in these provinces. While this meeting did not yield a conclusion, it sparked subsequent efforts to regulate the naming and marking of Parmigiano cheese.
On July 27, 1934, the Consorzio Interprovinciale Volontario Grana Tipico was formed, adopting an oval mark for compliant wheels, bearing the vintage and the initials "C.G.T. Parmigiano Reggiano." After receiving official legal approvals, the consortium, officially named "Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano," united all manufacturers under its protection activities.
Role and Responsibilities:
The consortium sets strict criteria for the cheese during the early aging process, and only wheels that meet these standards receive the official seal and are stored for aging. The consortium also sponsors marketing activities and has introduced marks of origin, such as the dotted inscription "Parmigiano-Reggiano" encircling the wheels, to distinguish genuine products.
Impact and Recognition:
Additionally, the consortium has designated October 27 as "Parmigiano Reggiano Day" to celebrate the "king of cheeses." This day was established in response to earthquakes in May 2012 that devastated the area of origin, causing significant losses in cheese production. The consortium's efforts ensure that Parmigiano Reggiano maintains its reputation as one of the world's most celebrated cheeses.
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Protected designation of origin (PDO)
Parmigiano Reggiano, or Parmesan as it is commonly known, has been designated a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product by the European Union. This means that only cheese produced in the provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia, as well as limited areas in surrounding provinces, are legally allowed to be called "Parmesan". The PDO designation is a type of geographical indication that preserves the designations of origin of food products and ensures that they are only used for products genuinely originating in that region.
The history of Parmesan cheese dates back to the Middle Ages, with the first record of Parmigiano-Reggiano from 1254. Legend has it that Benedictine monks in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy created this cheese to extend the shelf life of the large quantity of milk they produced. During the 1300s and 1400s, these monks had a monopoly on Parmesan cheese and exported it to different regions of Italy. As the cheese became more popular, it spread throughout the rest of Europe, and Parmigiano-Reggiano imitators emerged.
To protect the authenticity of Parmesan cheese, the European Union intervened and established the PDO designation for Parmigiano-Reggiano. This ensures that all Parmesan sold in the EU is made using traditional methods and is manufactured in the designated regions. The Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano, created by a governmental decree, also exercises exclusive control over the cheese's production and sale in Italy.
The PDO system is not limited to Parmesan cheese but also includes other cheese varieties such as Gorgonzola, Asiago, and Roquefort, among others. The system aims to protect the reputation of regional foods, eliminate unfair competition, and prevent consumers from being misled by non-genuine products. While the PDO system provides protection within the EU, geographical protection beyond the EU must be legally pursued on a case-by-case basis.
The protection of regional food designations is not unique to the EU, as countries like France have their own AOC system, and the United States has the AVA system for protecting distinctive wine regions. These systems aim to safeguard the identity and quality of specialty products, ensuring that consumers can trust the authenticity and origin of the goods they purchase.
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Italian and European law
Parmigiano Reggiano, or Parmesan, is a protected designation of origin (PDO) under Italian and European law. This means that only cheese produced in specific areas of Italy, following precise methods, can be sold as Parmigiano Reggiano or Parmesan. The provinces where the cheese is produced include Parma, Reggio Emilia, Mantua, Modena, and Bologna. The Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano, created by a governmental decree, exercises exclusive control over the cheese's production and sale in Italy.
The legal protection of Parmigiano Reggiano is critical to preserving its quality and reputation and preventing imitations from flooding the market. The Consortium plays a pivotal role in this regulatory landscape, ensuring that all Parmigiano Reggiano cheese meets strict criteria early in the aging process to merit the official seal and be placed in storage for aging.
In Europe, the name "Parmesan" is legally protected, and an EU court ruled that only cheese produced in the designated provinces of Italy can be called "Parmesan." This ruling also applies to the translation of "Parmesan" in other languages, such as "Pamesello" in Europe and the "fake name" of "Parmesan" in the United States. However, outside the EU, the name Parmesan is legally used for imitations, and only the full Italian name, Parmigiano Reggiano, refers to the PDO cheese.
Italian law also includes DOC (Denominazione di Origine controllata) regulations, which aim to preserve the integrity of traditional Italian food products by ensuring their flavor and quality. These laws contribute to Italy's strict regulations surrounding Parmesan cheese production, reflecting the country's commitment to quality, tradition, and geographical specificity in its culinary heritage.
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Imitations and the spread of Parmesan
Parmigiano Reggiano has been widely imitated, and as a result, it has become an increasingly regulated product. In 1955, it became a certified name, and in 2008, an EU court ruled that the name Parmesan in Europe only refers to Parmigiano Reggiano and cannot be used for imitation Parmesan. This means that in the European Union, Parmigiano Reggiano is a protected designation of origin (PDO), and the name refers exclusively to the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO cheese manufactured in a limited area in northern Italy.
Outside the EU, the name Parmesan is legally used for imitations, with only the full Italian name unambiguously referring to PDO Parmigiano Reggiano. In the United States, if you want to buy the real thing, you should purchase Parmigiano Reggiano. Most U.S. versions are imitations, typically aged a minimum of 10 months, and are produced domestically or in South America, especially Argentina. Some imitation names include Parmesan, Parmigiana, Parmesana, Parmabon, Real Parma, Parmezan, Parmezano, and Permesansan.
In the U.S., consumers can find pre-grated real Parmigiano Reggiano at some gourmet stores, but if they opt for grated cheese, they are more likely to get imitation Parmesan. However, it is important to note that even the imitation Parmesan cheeses found in the U.S. can still be tasty. Many artisanal cheesemakers create high-quality cheeses inspired by Parmigiano Reggiano.
Parmigiano Reggiano is made from unpasteurised cow's milk, while imitation Parmesan cheeses are made from skimmed or partially skimmed cow's milk. Parmigiano Reggiano has a hard, pale-golden rind and a straw-colored interior with a rich, sharp flavor. The complex flavor and extremely granular texture of Parmigiano Reggiano are a result of the long aging process, with the minimum aging period being 12 months, while the imitation Parmesan cheeses have a more lax regulation, with a minimum aging period of 10 months.
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Frequently asked questions
Parmesan cheese gets its name from the Italian word Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is named after two of the areas that produce it, the Italian provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia.
Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, was first created in Italy during the Middle Ages. Legend has it that Benedictine monks living in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy created this cheese.
Parmesan is the English and American translation of the Italian word Parmigiano-Reggiano. Outside of Italy, Parmesan has become a catchall term for hard, salty, Italian-style cheeses.
Yes, Parmesan cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is from Italy. It is produced in the provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia, as well as limited areas in surrounding provinces.
Yes, Parmesan cheese is popular in Italy and is considered the king of cheeses. It is widely imitated and has become an increasingly regulated product.
