The Story Of Mac And Cheese's American Adventure

Macaroni and cheese is a beloved staple in the United States, but how did it get there? While some sources attribute the introduction of macaroni and cheese to the United States to Thomas Jefferson, it was actually his enslaved chef, James Hemings, who discovered the dish and brought it to America. Hemings, a trained chef, studied the culinary arts in France and learned to make macaroni and cheese there. In 1789, he returned to Virginia with Jefferson and introduced the dish to the American South. The earliest recorded mac and cheese recipe likely comes from Northern Europe and dates back to 1769. In 1824, Mary Randolph published The Virginia House-Wife, which included a recipe for mac and cheese, further popularising the dish.

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Thomas Jefferson's role in popularising mac and cheese

Thomas Jefferson is often credited with popularising mac and cheese in the United States. However, it was his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who learned to cook it and should be credited with its success in America. Hemings learned French cooking techniques while in Europe with Jefferson before he was president, and when they returned to the US, he put his own spin on macaroni and cheese.

Jefferson reportedly loved mac and cheese when he tried it in Italy, and he had White House chefs recreate and serve the dish during his presidency. In 1802, Jefferson served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner. The menu of the dinner was reported by Reverend Manasseh Cutler, who was apparently not fond of the cheesy macaroni casserole.

James Hemings taught the recipe to his brother Peter Hemings, who later served the pie at a state dinner hosted by Jefferson at the White House, introducing mac and cheese to America's elite. In 1801, President Jefferson was gifted a 1200-pound cheese by a Baptist congregation in Massachusetts. Jefferson also imported Italian Parmesan cheese until his dying day.

In 1824, Mary Randolph, who took over hostess duties at the White House when Jefferson's wife died, included a macaroni and Parmesan cheese recipe in her cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife". Randolph's recipe had three ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. The cookbook was the most influential cookbook of the 19th century, according to culinary historian Karen Hess. Similar recipes for macaroni and cheese began appearing in other cookbooks, and the dish started to gain popularity across the US.

The dish's evolution in America

Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a popular dish in the United States, considered a comfort food by many. While the dish has its roots in medieval England, it has evolved and spread worldwide, including to America, where its history is closely tied to the country's socio-economic landscape.

The dish's introduction to America is often attributed to Thomas Jefferson, who, after trying it in Italy, had it recreated and served during his presidency. However, it was actually his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who learned the recipe in France and brought it to the US, introducing it to the American elite. Hemings's recipe for "a pie called macaroni" was served at a state dinner hosted by Jefferson and later published in Mary Randolph's influential 1824 cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife".

In the Antebellum South, mac and cheese was considered a weekend and celebration food. This tradition has been carried forward by many African Americans, who consider it a classic soul food dish. The dish's popularity among the upper classes began to wane as it became more accessible to a broader section of society due to the affordability and availability of its ingredients.

During the Great Depression, Canadian cheese maker James Lewis Kraft introduced his Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Dinner, a fast, filling, and inexpensive meal. It became wildly popular, with 8 million boxes sold in the first year alone. The convenience of boxed macaroni and cheese mixes, which often used powdered or processed cheese, further propelled the dish's popularity in the 20th century, solidifying its place as an American staple.

Early mac and cheese recipes

Mac and cheese is a beloved comfort food that has been enjoyed for centuries. Early recipes for mac and cheese in America date back to the 1800s, with a mention of "Maccaroni Cheese" appearing in Civil War Recipes: Receipts from the Pages of Godey's Lady's Book. The recipe, published in 1861, is simple and open to interpretation: "Boil the maccaroni in milk; put in the stewpan butter, cheese, and seasoning; when melted, pour into the macaroni."

Another early recipe for mac and cheese can be found in a collection of Civil War recipes from the same era. This version calls for equal parts elbow macaroni pasta and cheddar cheese, with whole milk, nutmeg, pepper, and cayenne for seasoning. The macaroni is cooked directly in the milk, a unique preparation method that may seem unusual to modern cooks.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups milk
• 2 cups elbow macaroni pasta
• 2 cups cheddar cheese, grated
• Butter
• Nutmeg
• Pepper
• Cayenne (optional)

Instructions:

• Heat the milk in a large saucepan over medium heat until steamy.
• Stir in the dry macaroni pasta and bring to a boil.
• Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the macaroni for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent boiling over. The macaroni should absorb most of the milk.
• Preheat the oven to 400°F.
• Melt butter in a separate saucepan, then add the grated cheese, pepper, and nutmeg.
• Once the cheese has melted, pour the sauce over the cooked macaroni and stir to combine.
• Taste and adjust seasoning, adding salt if needed.
• Transfer the macaroni and cheese to a baking dish.
• Sprinkle the top with breadcrumbs (optional).
• Bake in the preheated oven for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown and bubbly.
• Let cool slightly before serving.

This recipe reflects the early American approach to mac and cheese, with simple ingredients and a straightforward preparation method. While modern variations may include different types of cheese, seasonings, and toppings, the fundamental elements of pasta, cheese, and milk remain the cornerstone of this classic dish.

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The introduction of boxed mac and cheese

Macaroni and cheese, colloquially known as mac and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins trace back to cheese and pasta casseroles in medieval England. The traditional macaroni and cheese is put in a casserole dish and baked in the oven. Macaroni and cheese was brought to Canada by British immigrants, and recipes have been attested in Canada since at least 1845.

During the Great Depression, a St. Louis, Missouri salesman named Grant Leslie had the idea to sell macaroni pasta and cheese together as a package, so he began attaching grated cheese to boxes of pasta with a rubber band. In 1937, Kraft introduced boxed macaroni and cheese in the US and Canada, selling it for 19 cents for four servings. Its slogan was "make a meal for four in nine minutes". The timing of the product's launch contributed significantly to its success. During World War II, the rationing of milk and dairy products, increased reliance on meatless meals, and a greater number of women working outside the home created a large market for the product, which was considered a hearty meal for families. Its shelf life of ten months was also attractive at a time when many Canadian homes did not have refrigerators. Additionally, consumers could receive two boxes for one food ration stamp. Kraft Dinner, as it was originally called, sold 8 or 9 million boxes in its first year on the market, and its popularity continues today.

Boxed macaroni and cheese was an outcome of the quest to find ways to preserve cheese for longer. While some cheeses improve with age, most tend to spoil quickly once they reach their prime. Before household refrigeration became common, many retailers wouldn't stock cheese during the summer due to its short shelf life. Processed cheese, invented by Swiss food chemists Walter Gerber and Fritz Stettler in 1913, solved this problem. Today, boxed mac and cheese is often dismissed as a meal for children, but many adults secretly enjoy it. It has also played a significant role in kitchen science, wars, and women's liberation.

Mac and cheese as comfort food

Mac and cheese is considered a comfort food for many people. It has been described as "the greatest of all comfort foods". It is a simple dish, made by layering slices of cheese and pasta, often with butter or evaporated milk, and then baking it in a casserole. The dish can be made extra comforting by adding a crunchy, golden topping.

The ultimate comfort food is often associated with childhood and nostalgia. For some, it is a decadent holiday side dish, while for others, it is a reliable box of comfort food when late-night cravings hit. Mac and cheese is also a versatile dish, suitable for weeknight dinners, potlucks, and special occasions.

The history of mac and cheese in America dates back to the early 19th century. It is believed that James Hemings, Thomas Jefferson's enslaved black chef, brought the recipe to the United States. Jefferson reportedly loved mac and cheese when he tried it in Italy and had White House chefs recreate and serve the dish during his presidency. In 1802, Jefferson served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner, introducing mac and cheese to America's elite.

In 1824, Mary Randolph, who took over hostess duties at the White House, included a macaroni and cheese recipe in her cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife". The recipe consisted of three simple ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. By the mid-1880s, cookbooks as far west as Kansas and Festus, Missouri, included recipes for macaroni and cheese casseroles.

Over time, mac and cheese became accessible to a broader section of society and lost its upper-class appeal. In 1937, Kraft Foods introduced the Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Dinner, a fast, filling, and inexpensive way to feed a family. The popularity of boxed macaroni and cheese continues today, with many Americans growing up with the convenient and affordable dish.

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