Kamil Perry
Cheddar cheese is made yellow through the addition of a dye called annatto, which is derived from the seeds of the achiote tree. The practice of dyeing cheese originated in 16th-century England, where cheese makers would use marigold petals, carrot juice, or saffron to make low-fat cheese appear more like high-fat cheese, which was considered superior. This tradition was later adopted in the US, particularly in states like Indiana, Ohio, Wisconsin, and New York, to create a consistent colour for cheese, addressing variations due to seasonal changes in cow diets.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Natural colour of cheddar cheese | White or yellowish |
| Reason for the yellowish colour | Beta-carotene in milk |
| Source of beta-carotene | Grass in cow's diet |
| Season with higher beta-carotene levels | Spring |
| Season with lower beta-carotene levels | Winter |
| Dye used | Annatto |
| Other dyes used historically | Saffron, marigold petals, carrot juice |
| Reason for adding dye | To indicate higher fat content and command higher prices |
| Region where most cheddar is coloured | Wisconsin |
| Region where most cheddar is white | Vermont, New York |
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What You'll Learn
The natural colour of cheddar cheese
Historically, some English cheesemakers would skim off the cream from milk to sell separately or make butter, resulting in a loss of the orange pigment in the cheese. To compensate, they began adding colourings such as saffron, marigold, carrot juice, and later annatto, a yellow-orange vegetable dye made from the seeds of the achiote tree. This practice, which began as early as the 16th or 17th century, allowed them to pass off low-fat cheese as a high-quality, full-fat product.
Today, the addition of annatto to cheddar cheese is primarily for colour consistency and to meet consumer expectations, as it does not alter the flavour, texture, or aroma of the cheese. However, it is worth noting that not all cheddar cheese is coloured, and some cheesemakers, particularly in New England and Vermont, favour the natural white colour of their cheese.
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The use of annatto seeds
Annatto seeds are derived from the achiote tree, a tropical plant. The seeds are dried and ground to create a red powder, which is used as a dye. In the 16th century, English farmers began to dye their cheeses, originally using marigold petals or carrot juice. Later, they turned to annatto, which gave a deeper yellow-orange colour.
The addition of annatto to cheese was initially a way to deceive customers. By adding dye to their white or low-fat cheeses, farmers could trick buyers into thinking they were purchasing authentic, high-fat cheddar cheese. The more yellow the cheese, the higher the price it would fetch. This deception was particularly prevalent in the 17th century, when English cheesemakers realised they could make more money by skimming off the cream from milk and selling it separately or making butter from it. The resulting low-fat cheese was white, so they added colouring to make it appear more like the full-fat, naturally yellowish-orange cheese that was expected.
The use of annatto became standard operating procedure in the US when commercial cheese production took off in the 19th century. It was used to address the problem of inconsistent cheese colour due to seasonal variations. Cheese made from milk produced in spring and summer was naturally yellower than cheese made from fall and winter milk, as grass is more abundant and nutritious during those seasons.
Today, annatto is still used to colour cheddar cheese to satisfy consumer expectations. It is particularly favoured by cheesemakers in the Midwest of the US, as well as in Wisconsin, Indiana, Ohio, and New York. The additive does not alter the flavour, texture, or aroma of the cheese, so a sharp white cheddar can match a deep orange version in every way but appearance.
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Beta-carotene in cow's milk
The colour of cow's milk can range from white to deep yellow, depending on the diet of the cow. Milk contains beta-carotene, the same natural pigment that gives carrots their orange colour. Beta-carotene is a type of carotenoid, which is a plant pigment. Carotenoids are transferred into animal products, and in the case of ruminants like cows, they modify the colour of milk and dairy products and body fat.
In cows, beta-carotene is found in the fat globules of milk. However, the colour is concealed by protein clusters and the membranes that surround these fat globules, which reflect light in a way that makes milk appear white and opaque. During the cheese-making process, the beta-carotene pigment is released when the mixture is cooked, and the fat membranes dissolve. The beta-carotene becomes more concentrated as the whey, the lean liquid component of the milk, is drained off.
The level of beta-carotene in cow's milk depends on the diet of the cow. Pasture-fed cows produce milk with higher levels of beta-carotene in the spring when their diet consists of fresh grass. In the winter, when cows' diets consist mostly of hay, beta-carotene levels drop, resulting in whiter milk and cheese. The breed of cow and the ratio of cream in the milk can also affect the concentration of beta-carotene and the colour of the milk.
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Historical fraud and dyeing
The colour of cheddar cheese is a direct result of historical fraud and dyeing practices. In its natural state, cheddar cheese is white or yellowish, with the colour depending on the diet of the cow the milk is sourced from. The natural pigment beta-carotene, which is also found in carrots, is responsible for the yellow colour of cheese. The more beta-carotene in the cow's diet, the more yellow the cheese.
Centuries ago, certain breeds of cows, such as Jersey and Guernsey, grazed on grass rich in beta-carotene. This resulted in milk with a deeper yellow colour, which was considered a mark of quality. In the 16th century, English farmers began dyeing low-fat cheese to make it look like the high-fat variety, which was more expensive. They used natural dyes such as marigold petals or carrot juice.
As cheddar cheese became more popular, cheese shops could charge higher prices for it. Unscrupulous cheesemakers took advantage of this by adding dye to their white cheeses, passing them off as authentic cheddar. The more yellow the cheese, the higher the price they could command. This practice continued into the 17th century, with English cheesemakers adding vegetable dyes to milk to create a consistent colour in their cheese.
When commercial cheese production took off in the US in the 19th century, dyeing with annatto, a red powder made from the seeds of the achiote tree, became standard. This was done to address the issue of inconsistent cheese colour due to seasonal variations in cow diets. The tradition of colouring cheese then carried over to the US, with cheesemakers in states like Indiana, Ohio, Wisconsin, and New York continuing the practice.
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Consumer expectations and marketing
The colour of cheddar cheese has been linked to consumer expectations and marketing strategies. In the early days of cheddar cheese, consumers associated the yellow colour with a better flavour compared to other white cheeses. This created an opportunity for cheese makers to charge a premium for their yellow cheddar cheese. As a result, some cheese makers started adding dye to their white cheeses to meet consumer expectations and fetch a higher price. This practice, known as "cheesemaking fraud", dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries when English farmers used dyes to make low-fat cheese appear more like high-fat cheese, which was considered superior.
The addition of dye to cheddar cheese has evolved over time, with annatto, a plant extract from the achiote tree, becoming the standard colouring agent in the 19th century during the rise of commercial cheese production in the United States. Annatto was favoured because it did not alter the flavour, texture, or aroma of the cheese, allowing cheese makers to standardise the colour of their product without affecting its quality. This practice continues today, with many supermarket cheddars still coloured to meet consumer expectations of what cheese should look like.
Regional preferences also play a role in consumer expectations and marketing of cheddar cheese. For example, Wisconsin cheddar cheese is often associated with a bright orange colour, while cheddars from Vermont and New York are typically white. These variations in colour are influenced by historical factors, such as the boycott of British products during colonial times, which led to the differentiation of American cheddar from English cheddar through the use of annatto.
Consumer expectations of cheddar cheese colour can also be influenced by the seasonality of milk production. Cheese made from spring and summer milk tends to have a more yellowish colour due to the higher levels of beta-carotene in the cows' diet, while cheese made from fall and winter milk is whiter. Cheese makers may use this seasonal variation to their advantage, marketing their cheese as having a more natural colour.
In summary, the colour of cheddar cheese has been a significant factor in consumer expectations and marketing strategies. The association of colour with quality and flavour has driven cheese makers to use dyes to meet consumer preferences and command higher prices. While the practice of adding dye to cheddar cheese has faced scrutiny, it continues to be a common practice to satisfy consumer expectations of what cheese should look like.
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Frequently asked questions
The yellow colour of cheddar cheese comes from the beta-carotene in the grass eaten by cows. Beta-carotene is the same pigment that gives carrots their orange colour.
The colour of milk can range from white to deep yellow depending on what the cows were eating, the breed of cows, and the ratio of cream remaining in it. Milk produced by cows in the spring, when their diet consists of fresh grass, will have higher levels of beta-carotene, resulting in a deeper yellow cheese.
Cheese producers started adding vegetable dyes to their milk as far back as the 17th century to control the consistency of colour in their cheese. Dyes used included saffron, marigold, and carrot juice.
Annatto is a yellow-orange vegetable dye made from the seeds of the achiote tree. It is added to cheese to give it an orange colour and is commonly used in the Midwest region of the United States. Annatto does not alter the flavour, texture, or aroma of the cheese.
Cheese producers add annatto to create a consistent colour in their cheese to meet consumer expectations and differentiate their products.
