The Ancient Art Of Greek Feta Cheese Making

Feta is a traditional Greek cheese with a history that dates back to ancient Greece. It is a soft, crumbly, salty cheese made from a combination of sheep's and goat's milk, with the former being much fattier than cow's milk. The ratio of sheep to goat milk varies across Greece, resulting in different-tasting fetas, from soft and buttery to hard and tangy. The production of feta is highly regulated, and only cheese made in specific regions of Greece that meets strict criteria can be labelled and sold as feta.

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Feta's ancient origins

Feta cheese has been a part of Greece for millennia, with its origins dating back to ancient times. The earliest documented reference to cheese production in Greece dates back to the 8th century BC, and the technology used to make feta cheese from sheep and goat milk is similar to the methods used by Greek shepherds today.

The name "feta" means "slice" or "slab" in Greek and originated in the 17th century, referring to the practice of slicing cheese and placing it in barrels, which is still done today. However, the ancient Greeks simply called it "cheese". The production process for feta has remained largely unchanged for thousands of years, with the cheese being formed into blocks and aged in brine, resulting in its distinctive tangy, salty, and mildly sour flavour.

According to Greek mythology, the Cyclops Polyphemus, son of Poseidon, was the first to prepare feta cheese. In Homer's "The Odyssey", Ulysses visits the cave of Polyphemus and finds evidence of cheesemaking: woven baskets full of cheese, pens full of livestock, and pots and tubs of milk and whey. This story highlights the ancient tradition of cheesemaking in Greece, which has been passed down through the centuries.

Feta is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product within the European Union, meaning that its quality and characteristics are tied to the geographical area where it originated. This status was granted by the European Union in 2002 after a 16-year court battle with Germany and Denmark, who produce similar cheeses. The PDO guidelines specify that feta must be made with a minimum of 70% sheep's milk and up to 30% goat's milk, with the milk coming from specific regions of Greece.

Milk sources and PDO regulations

Feta is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese, meaning its production is closely regulated, and only cheese made in Greece that meets specific criteria can be labelled and sold as feta. Feta PDO can only be produced in mainland Greece and on the islands of Lesvos, Limnos, and Agios Efstratios. The milk must come from sheep and goats within these areas, with a minimum of 70% sheep's milk and a maximum of 30% goat's milk. The minimum required ageing time for the cheese is two months.

The PDO regions in Greece include Epirus, Macedonia, Thrace, Thessaly, Central Greece, Peloponnese, and Mytilene. The sensory characteristics of the milk in these regions, and thus of the feta cheese, are influenced by the local flora. For example, the province of Epirus, where the top feta cheese brand in Greece, Dodoni, is located, is known for its rich vegetation and rare biodiversity, with 2,500 varieties of herbs and plants, contributing to the unique flavour and aroma of the feta produced in this region.

The milk used in feta production comes from sheep and goats in the mountainous regions of Greece, where there is a tradition of nomadic livestock keeping. The rocky terrain has resulted in goats developing strong hooves to navigate the landscape. The ratio of sheep's milk to goat's milk can vary depending on availability and the cheesemaker's preferred recipe, resulting in different flavours and textures. For instance, using more goat's milk yields a whiter, crumbly cheese, while higher sheep's milk content produces a yellower, richer, and fattier cheese.

The flavour of feta is also influenced by the ageing process. Traditionally, feta is aged in brine, which adds to its salty flavour and helps preserve its freshness. However, it can also be aged in barrels, baskets, or tins, each imparting unique characteristics to the final product.

The cheesemaking process

Feta cheese is made from a combination of sheep's milk and goat's milk. The minimum required ageing time for the cheese is two months, and it must be produced in mainland Greece and on the islands of Lesvos, Limnos, and Agios Efstratios. The milk must come from sheep and goats within these areas. In the European Union, "white cheeses" that may look similar but are made with cow's milk or made outside of these regions cannot be labelled as feta.

The process of making feta cheese begins with the pasteurisation of the milk. Then, a lactic acid starter culture is added to the mix, helping the whey to separate from the curds. Next, rennet is added, and the curd is given its shape by draining the whey and placing it in moulds for 24 hours. Once the curd is more solid, it is cut into blocks and salted. The feta cheese is then placed in metal containers or wooden barrels for up to three days. Finally, the blocks of feta are placed in a salted solution and put in a refrigerated room for two months. After this, it is packaged in brine, which helps preserve its freshness.

The ratio of sheep's milk to goat's milk varies depending on availability and the cheesemaker's preferred recipe. Using more goat's milk will result in a whiter, crumbly cheese. Exclusively using sheep's milk will produce a more yellow, fatty, and rich cheese. The amount of salt in the feta also depends on the cheesemaker. The flavour and texture of the cheese are influenced by the length of the maturation period.

Feta is one of the oldest cheeses in Europe, with roots tracing back to ancient Greece. It was first mentioned in Homer's The Odyssey, where Polyphemus, the son of Poseidon, made a cheese from sheep's and goat's milk in his cave.

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Feta's texture and colour

Feta is a soft, crumbly cheese with a white or yellow colour, depending on its milk composition. The texture of feta varies from soft and buttery to hard and tangy, depending on the ratio of sheep's and goat's milk used in production. The length of the maturation period also influences the texture, with longer maturation resulting in a firmer texture.

Feta made with 100% sheep's milk will have a more yellow colour and be richer and fattier. On the other hand, feta made with a combination of sheep's and goat's milk will be whiter and more crumbly. The amount of salt added by the cheesemaker also affects the texture, with more salt resulting in a firmer texture.

The high sodium content in feta is due to the brine solution it is aged and stored in, which helps preserve its freshness. The brine also contributes to the salty and tangy flavour of the cheese. Feta is typically aged for a minimum of two months, during which time it becomes saltier and sharper in flavour.

The texture of feta is also influenced by the moulds used during the production process. The curd is shaped by draining the whey and placing it in moulds for 24 hours. After solidifying, the curd is cut into blocks, which gives feta its characteristic shape and size.

Feta's packaging and storage

Feta cheese is often packaged in brine, a combination of water and salt that flavours and preserves the cheese. If you buy feta in brine, it's important to store it in a container with a tightly secured lid to avoid spillage.

If you buy feta without brine, you can make your own by adding water and salt to a Tupperware container. First, cut the feta into pieces that fit the container, ensuring there's enough space for the water to cover the cheese. Then, boil some water and add a tablespoon of salt, allowing the mixture to cool before adding it to the container. The brine will help keep the cheese moist and flavourful. If you don't eat cheese often, change the brine every other week.

For feta producers, packaging solutions are available that include filling and packaging lines with modular elements adaptable to different customer needs. These systems automate the filling of containers with brine and the application of lids, ensuring efficiency and consistency in the packaging process.

Frequently asked questions