The Art Of Making Raw Cheese

Raw cheese is made using milk that has not been pasteurized or heat-treated. Before the invention of pasteurization in the 19th century, all cheese was made with raw milk. Pasteurization involves heating milk to a certain temperature to kill bacteria, and while it makes milk safer for human consumption, it also destroys enzymes and bacteria that are beneficial to health. Raw milk cheese is considered to have a more intense flavor than cheese made with pasteurized milk, and it is also easier to digest, especially for those who are lactose intolerant.

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Pasteurization vs. raw milk

The debate between raw and pasteurized milk has been ongoing for decades, with both sides arguing about health benefits, food safety, and taste.

Raw milk refers to animal milk that has not been pasteurized or heat-treated to prevent foodborne illnesses caused by microbes. Pasteurization, on the other hand, was developed around 1884 to kill pathogenic bacteria in milk and make it safer for human consumption. The process involves heating milk to 160˚F for 15 seconds or 145˚F for 30 minutes, while thermalization, a gentler process, heats milk to about 149˚F for 15 seconds.

Proponents of raw milk argue that it brings out a full array of well-defined flavors and aromatics in cheese. The unique flavor and quality of raw cheese are due to the diverse bacteria and naturally occurring enzymes present in the milk, which are destroyed or denatured during pasteurization. Raw milk cheese is also said to have a more intense flavor that reflects the seasonality and sense of place of the animals' grazing. Additionally, raw milk cheese is easier to digest for those with lactose intolerance as it contains enzymes that facilitate lactase production.

However, opponents of raw milk argue that it can contain disease-causing pathogens, as demonstrated by scientific studies and foodborne outbreaks. Pasteurization effectively kills these pathogens without significantly impacting milk's nutritional quality. Raw milk intended for pasteurization is often produced with little regard for preventing contamination, and it is commingled with milk from multiple dairies, increasing the risk of pathogenic exposure.

In contrast, raw milk produced for direct human consumption is carefully managed to maintain cleanliness and hygiene, ensuring the health of the animals and the milk's cleanliness. Raw milk farmers adhere to strict standards, regularly testing their milk to ensure it is safe for consumption.

Taste and health benefits

Raw cheese is made using milk that has not been pasteurized or heat-treated. This process of making cheese has been used for around 7000 years, and it is said to bring out the full array of flavours and aromatics. The milk for this cheese comes from cows that graze on lush pasture, and it is packed with bioavailable vitamins, minerals, enzymes, healthy fats, beneficial bacteria, naturally occurring CLA (Conjugated Linoleic Acid), and Omega-3 fatty acids.

The flavour of raw milk cheese is much more intense than cheese made with pasteurized milk. Raw milk retains both seasonality and a sense of place, where the flavours in the milk can reflect what the animals have been grazing on. Raw milk cheese has a depth of flavour that is simply not present in pasteurized milk.

Raw cheese is also a great option for those who are lactose intolerant. The cheese-making process increases the amount of lactic acid in the cheese, which helps to destroy any unwanted bacteria. The presence of enzymes in the cheese also makes it easier to digest. Raw cheese is rich in beneficial bacteria, which also aids digestion.

Raw cheese is a nutritious option, containing many important vitamins and minerals that keep your immune system strong and your body functioning. It is also a good source of complex carbohydrates, which provide energy for your body and brain. The presence of good bacteria in the cheese also helps to keep your gut biome healthy and thriving, which in turn strengthens your immune system.

Raw cheese is a delicious and nutritious option, offering a unique taste experience and a range of health benefits.

Artisan techniques

Artisan cheesemakers rely on traditional production methods, natural ingredients, and hand-crafted care to produce their cheeses. They source milk from local farms and use varieties of cow, sheep, and goat milk. This milk is left raw and unprocessed, meaning it is neither pasteurised nor homogenised.

Artisan cheesemakers add a special bacteria or rennet to the milk, which turns part of the lactose into lactic acid, causing the milk to curdle. Depending on the type of cheese, the curd can be made very small and dry, or large and wet. For most cheeses, coagulation happens at 30–35 °C, but some cheeses, especially goat cheeses, can be made at 20–25 °C, while others need the temperature to go up to 40 °C.

The ripening and aging processes are crucial to the unique taste and aroma of the cheese. During ripening, the cheese becomes the responsibility of an "affineur", who manages the cheese during the aging process. Affineurs follow traditional methods of their regions, passed down through generations. For example, Parmigiano Reggiano is kept in salted water for 20-25 days, then dried in the sun, and kept in a cheese cellar with good air circulation and high humidity, stored at 16–18 °C. The aging process lasts for at least 12 months, but to receive the label of Parmigiano Reggiano, it must stay in the cellar for at least 24 months.

Artisan cheesemaking is a complex process that requires a special environment and often involves family-kept manufacturing secrets. It is an art and a science, with centuries of knowledge passed down through generations.

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The culturing stage

To begin the culturing stage, you will need raw milk, preferably from grass-grazed cows, as this will impart a natural yellow colour to the cheese. The milk's temperature is not important; it can be warm from milking or cold from the refrigerator. The milk is then poured into a gallon-sized jar, and a mesophilic culture is sprinkled on top and stirred in with a wooden spoon. Metal utensils should not be used at this stage.

The mesophilic culture is a type of bacteria that plays a vital role in the cheesemaking process. It helps to consume lactose, making the cheese more digestible, especially for those who are lactose intolerant. Additionally, the culture contributes to the development of the cheese's unique flavour.

After adding the culture, the jar is left in a warm, dark spot for a couple of days. During this time, the bacteria actively work to transform the milk into cheese. The specific ambient temperature will influence the speed of this process. For example, in Nicaragua, with an ambient temperature of around 29°C, the milk is left to curdle for three to four days.

At this stage, the milk will begin to develop a thick, gelled consistency, similar to firm yoghurt. It is now ready to be transferred to a cheesecloth-lined colander to separate the curds and whey. This process is crucial for forming the cheese's desired texture. The curds are gently transferred, and the bundle is left at room temperature for another 24 hours to allow the whey to drain further and the curds to thicken.

Food safety

Raw cheese is made from raw, unpasteurized milk and is known for its rich flavour and probiotic content. However, consuming raw milk and raw-milk products may pose potential health risks.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has long warned against drinking raw milk, classifying it as one of the riskiest foods to consume. Raw milk can be contaminated with harmful bacteria, leading to illnesses caused by pathogens such as Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria, E. coli, and other foodborne bacteria. These bacteria can survive the cheese production and aging process, potentially causing foodborne illnesses.

To mitigate these risks, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has implemented regulations for raw-milk cheese. Domestic or imported raw-milk cheese must be aged for at least 60 days before being sold. This aging process helps to reduce the presence of harmful bacteria. Additionally, raw-milk cheese cannot be sold across state lines due to varying state regulations. Despite these measures, the CDC continues to advise individuals with compromised immune systems, pregnant women, breastfeeding mothers, children, the elderly, and those with chronic diseases to avoid raw-milk cheeses due to the risk of Listeria infection.

Some raw-milk cheese producers, like RAW FARM, have implemented strict food safety protocols to minimize the presence of pathogens. They maintain high standards of cow hygiene, bedding cleanliness, and pathogen testing to ensure the safety of their products. However, recalls and ongoing investigations by the FDA and CDC highlight the potential risks associated with consuming raw-milk products.

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