
Cheddar cheese is a natural cheese that is relatively hard and off-white (or orange if colourings such as annatto are added). It originates from the village of Cheddar in Somerset, South West England, and is now produced all over the world. The name cheddar has no protected designation of origin, but the name West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is protected under EU and UK law and may only be produced in Somerset, Devon, Dorset and Cornwall, using milk sourced from those counties. The process of making cheddar involves coagulating milk, cutting the coagulum, releasing whey, scalding and stirring, and then draining the curds. The curds are then cut into small pieces, salted, and filled into moulds before being pressed and dressed in cloth. The cheese is then matured for up to 24 months, with the final flavour and texture depending on the environment in which it is matured.
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What You'll Learn

Milk is ripened with bacteria to produce flavour and body
Milk is a highly perishable product, and cheese-making is an excellent way of preserving it. The first step in making cheddar cheese is to gently warm the milk. The milk used can be raw or pasteurized, and it is heated to 85°F.
Once the milk is warmed, bacteria are added to ripen the milk and produce flavour and body. These bacteria, known as starter cultures, are crucial in determining the quality, flavour, body, and safety of the cheese. The milk is then allowed to ripen and ferment for about an hour. The bacteria break down the milk, releasing enzymes that transform the milk's proteins into a solid mass.
After the milk has ripened, the cheesemaker will coagulate the milk by adding 'rennet', which changes the structure of the proteins, resulting in a soft but solid mass. The cheesemaker will then cut the coagulum using traditional handheld frames, releasing whey, which holds the floating curds. The curds and whey are then scalded and stirred before being drained. The cheesemaker's expertise is vital at this stage, as they will repeatedly test the curd to ensure it reaches the desired consistency.
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Rennet is added to coagulate the milk
Once the milk has been warmed and ripened, rennet is added to coagulate it. This changes the structure of the proteins, resulting in the liquid milk becoming a soft but solid mass. The cheesemaker must repeatedly test the curd to ensure it reaches the right consistency. This is a critical step in the process, and one that cannot be replicated by industrial processes.
The curd is then cut into small, chip-like pieces, releasing whey which holds the floating curds. The curds and whey are then scalded and stirred before being drained. The curds are then heated, or "cooked", to further release whey and create a firmer cheese. The curds are stirred frequently as they are heated to 100°F, and this temperature is maintained for 30 minutes. The mixture is then allowed to settle, and the curds are drained and poured into a colander. The curds are then cut into slices and placed back into the pot. The curds are kept at a temperature of 100°F and turned every 15 minutes for two hours.
The curds are then ready for pressing, but it is important to note that the dryness and acid levels should not be allowed to increase further. The cheese can then be dried and waxed, or cloth-bound. The wax covering requires careful attention to temperature, as it can easily reach its flashpoint. The cloth-bound method is more traditional and is still used for West Country cheddars. This method allows for the passage of moisture and gas.
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Curds are cut and stacked to drain whey
The process of making cheddar cheese involves several steps, and cutting and stacking the curds to drain the whey is a crucial one. This step requires skill and precision to ensure the desired consistency and texture of the final product. Here's a detailed breakdown of this step:
Cutting the Curds:
First, the curds are cut into small, chip-like pieces. This is done using traditional handheld frames with vertical or horizontal blades. The curds are gently drawn through, creating a soft but solid mass that releases whey, which holds the floating curds. This step is essential to release the whey and prepare the curds for the next steps.
Draining the Whey:
After cutting, the curds and whey are scalded and stirred before being drained. This process involves transferring the curds and residual whey to a draining pan. The curds should be fully covered with the whey to ensure even stirring. This step helps break up any clumps and allows the curds to float into their most compact form, minimizing mechanical holes. The cloth is then folded and tightened around the curds, and the whey is drained.
Stacking the Curds:
Once the whey is drained, the curds are stacked and pressed. This can be done using a colander or a pan with holes placed inside another pan to catch the remaining whey. The curds are kept warm and maintained at a specific temperature, around 100°F, to ensure they remain in a semi-solid state. This step helps the curds hold their shape and prepares them for the next steps in the cheddaring process.
The Cheddaring Process:
During cheddaring, the warm curds continue to develop acid, which affects the protein bonds. The draining whey washes away calcium, which is responsible for binding the proteins, resulting in a weaker bond and a change in the shape of the curds. They become more elongated, and the slabs flatten out. This process is unique to cheddar cheese and contributes to its distinct characteristics.
Cheddar cheese has a long history and is widely enjoyed worldwide. This step of cutting, draining, and stacking the curds is essential to the overall process, as it sets the foundation for the development of the cheese's texture, flavour, and structure.
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Salt is added to the curds
The salt causes the curds to release more whey, which helps to firm up the cheese and gives it a drier texture. This step also helps to preserve the cheese and can influence its final flavour.
It is important not to over-salt the curds, as this can make the cheese too salty and difficult to eat. The amount of salt added will depend on the desired saltiness of the final product, as well as the size and moisture content of the curds.
After salting, the cheese is typically pressed to remove any remaining whey and to form it into its final shape. This step also helps to further compact and firm up the cheese.
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The cheese is matured in a temperature-controlled environment
The maturation process is a critical stage in the production of cheddar cheese, and temperature control plays an essential role in this phase. Once the curds have been cut, scalded, stirred, and drained, they are ready to be transformed into cheddar cheese. However, the maturation process requires a carefully monitored environment to ensure the desired flavour and texture are achieved.
Cheddar cheese is typically matured in a temperature-controlled environment, such as a cave or a specially designed maturation chamber. Maintaining a consistent temperature is crucial, as it directly impacts the cheese's flavour development and texture. A slight variation in temperature can significantly affect the outcome. The ideal temperature range for maturing cheddar cheese is between 10-15°C (50-59°F).
During maturation, the cheese is regularly turned and inspected to ensure even maturation and to prevent the formation of unwanted mould. The maturation period can last from a minimum of three months to several years, depending on the desired flavour intensity and texture. The longer the cheese matures, the sharper and more pronounced its flavour becomes.
In some cases, cheddar cheese is waxed or cloth-bound to preserve moisture and facilitate the controlled release of gases during maturation. This step is particularly important for traditional cheddars, such as the "West Country" variety, which is matured for extended periods. The maturation process is both an art and a science, requiring cheesemakers to balance time, temperature, and technique to create the distinctive flavour and texture of cheddar cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step in making cheddar cheese is to heat full-fat milk to 85°F.
The second step is to add a starter culture, cover the milk, and allow it to ferment for an hour.
The third step is to stir in diluted rennet, which changes the structure of proteins, resulting in the liquid milk changing to a soft but solid mass.
The cheddaring phase involves cutting, turning, and stacking blocks of curd, allowing them to cool, drain, and "knit" together. This process is crucial in developing the final taste and texture of the cheese.
The final steps involve salting the curd, pressing it into moulds, and then dressing the cheese in a traditional cloth before transferring it to a maturing store.

























