The Usa's Long-Standing Love Affair With Imported Artisnal Cheeses

The USA has been importing artisanal cheese for decades, with the country's culinary scene demanding a variety of cheese types from around the world. In 2020, the US imported about $1.26 billion worth of cheese and cheese products, with the most consumed types of cheese also being the most frequently imported. These include cheddar, pecorino romano, grana padano, parmigiano reggiano, and cotija. While the US produces a significant amount of cheese domestically, its diverse culinary scene and the growth of artisanal cheese have driven the demand for imports.

The rise of Kraft and other large cheese companies

Kraft, now known as Kraft Heinz, has grown from a small cheese factory to a multinational food conglomerate. The company was started by Canadian-born James L. Kraft, who immigrated to the United States in 1903 and set up a wholesale door-to-door cheese business in Chicago. The first year was difficult, with the business losing $3,000 and a horse, but it soon turned around, and by 1909, Kraft was joined by his four brothers, forming J.L. Kraft and Bros. Company.

In 1912, the company established a base in New York City to prepare for its international expansion. By 1914, the company was selling 31 varieties of cheese across the US, thanks to heavy product development, marketing, and the opening of a wholly-owned cheese factory in Stockton, Illinois. In 1915, Kraft invented pasteurized processed cheese, which had a longer shelf life than conventional cheese as it did not require refrigeration. This invention proved pivotal during World War I, with the company selling about six million pounds of cheese to the US Army for military rations.

In 1916, Kraft began national advertising and made its first acquisition—a Canadian cheese company. The company continued to grow, changing its name to Kraft Cheese Company in 1924 and listing on the Chicago Stock Exchange. In 1925, Marye Dahnke became the company's first female home economist in the food industry. The company was listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 1926 and began to consolidate the US dairy industry through acquisitions, competing with National and Borden. By 1930, Kraft had captured 40% of the US cheese market and was the third-largest dairy company in the country, after National Dairy and Borden.

Kraft continued to expand its product lines, diversifying away from dairy products to items such as caramel candies, macaroni and cheese dinners, and margarines. In the 1950s, the company launched sliced processed cheese and Cheez Whiz, a brand of process cheese sauce. During the postwar years, product development and advertising helped Kraft grow. In the 1960s, the company intensified product development, introducing fruit jellies, fruit preserves, marshmallows, barbecue sauces, and Kraft Singles, individually wrapped cheese slices.

In the 1980s, Kraft merged with Dart Industries, bringing in brands such as Duracell batteries, Tupperware, and West Bend home appliances. However, the non-food business lagged, leading Kraft to spin off its non-food division and change its name back to Kraft, Inc. In 1988, Philip Morris Companies purchased Kraft for $12.9 billion, and the company merged with Philip Morris's General Foods unit. This merger slowed down Kraft's product development due to its size and internal politics.

In the 1990s, Kraft continued to expand globally, acquiring companies such as Jacobs Suchard, a European coffee and confectionery giant, and Freia Marabou, a Scandinavian confectionery maker. However, it also started divesting some of its businesses, selling its Breyers ice-cream division to Unilever and its Birds Eye unit to Dean Foods. In 1995, the company changed its name to Kraft Foods and sold several divisions, including its bakery, caramel & marshmallow, and tablespreads units.

In 2000, Philip Morris acquired Nabisco Holdings and merged it with Kraft Foods. In 2004, Kraft sold its sugar confectionery division to Wrigley and continued to divest other businesses, including its hot cereals division (Cream of Wheat) and its pet snacks division (Milk-Bone). In 2006, the company expanded in Southern Europe by acquiring several local brands from United Biscuits.

In 2011, Warren Buffett's Berkshire Hathaway invested in Kraft, and the company announced plans to split into two: a snack food company and a grocery company. In 2015, Buffett financed a merger between Kraft and Heinz. Despite this merger, Kraft's brand value declined, and in 2019, the company announced a $15.4 billion impairment charge.

The impact of the back-to-the-land movement

The back-to-the-land movement of the 1970s, which focused on small-scale and sustainable farming methods, had a significant impact on the artisanal cheese industry in the United States. This movement, which took hold in places like California, encouraged a new appreciation for local food and prompted chefs and Americans who had travelled abroad to question why they had to import fancy cheese from Europe. This period marked the arrival of the first wave of American artisan cheese pioneers, many of whom were women making small-scale goat cheese. These pioneers included Laura Chenel and Mary Keene in California, and Alison Hooper in Vermont. They had little in the way of supplies, recipes, or equipment, but they successfully revived the art of artisan cheesemaking in America and shared their knowledge with other cheesemakers.

The back-to-the-land movement's impact on the cheese industry continued into the 1980s and 1990s, with a bigger boom of domestic artisan cheesemaking. Americans' appetite for European-style cheeses had been whetted, and there was no turning back. This trend was influenced by chefs and Americans' travels abroad, as well as by pioneers like David Major of Vermont Shepherd, who travelled to the Pyrenees and learned to make traditional sheep's milk cheese. He then taught his methods to other farmers in Vermont, encouraging a mini explosion of sheep dairying in the state.

The early 2000s saw even more people, young and old, turning to cheesemaking as a way to make a living while pursuing a more sustainable lifestyle. Many cheesemakers during this period were pursuing a second career, having left jobs in fields like software engineering, fine art, and activism.

The back-to-the-land movement's influence on the cheese industry continues to be felt today, with the American artisan cheese boom continuing to gain momentum. While the COVID-19 pandemic and wildfires on the West Coast have posed significant challenges to artisanal cheesemakers, the industry has proven to be creative and resilient.

The influence of European cheeses

European cheeses have had a significant influence on the USA's artisanal cheese scene. The USA has been importing cheese from Europe for many years, and Americans have developed a taste for traditional European varieties. In recent years, there has been a growing appreciation for small-scale artisanal cheeses from Europe, with their complex flavours and high quality.

European cheeses are renowned for their old-world, artisanal craftsmanship, with production methods that have been handed down through generations. These traditional techniques and the emphasis on terroir result in cheeses with unique characteristics and flavours. Many European cheeses are crafted by hand, with artisans dedicating their lives to perfecting their craft. The commitment to these long-standing methods means that some European cheeses, such as Gorgonzola, have changed very little over centuries.

European cheeses also differ from their American counterparts in terms of ingredients. They typically rely on simpler, more natural components, without the additives and stabilizers often found in American cheeses. This lack of artificial ingredients contributes to the nuanced flavours and geographical indications that European cheeses are known for.

The USA's artisanal cheesemakers have been influenced by these European traditions, blending old-world techniques with modern innovation. Free from the strict, centuries-old regulations that govern European cheesemaking, American cheesemakers have more room for experimentation and creativity. This has resulted in a diverse array of American artisanal cheeses that rival European cheeses in complexity and quality.

European cheeses often come with a premium price tag in the American market due to shipping costs, tariffs, and import duties. However, the higher prices also reflect the labour-intensive processes, limited production quantities, aging time, cheese rarity, and exclusivity of certain varieties.

The history of cheese in the US

Cheese is a beloved dairy product worldwide, and its trade is an essential part of international commerce. The United States, in particular, has a long and complex history with cheese, both as a producer and an importer.

Early Days of Cheese in the US

The US has been making cheese domestically for a very long time. One of the earliest examples is the creation of Monterey Jack cheese. However, for many years, the country was primarily known as a mass producer of industrial cheese, such as the familiar Kraft singles. This cheese is often individually wrapped in plastic and paired with sandwiches or burgers.

Rise of Artisanal Cheese

In recent years, however, there has been a blossoming artisanal cheese scene in the US. This movement is characterised by innovative and experimental techniques, free from the strict rules and traditions of European cheesemaking. The US now boasts a vibrant and dynamic cheese culture, with producers creating unique and high-quality cheeses.

This boom in artisanal cheese has been attributed to the influx of European techniques and the lack of stringent regulations that exist overseas. American cheesemakers have had the freedom to experiment, resulting in a diverse range of cheese varieties.

Importing Cheese

While the US produces significant amounts of cheese domestically, it is also one of the largest importers of cheese globally. The diverse culinary scene in the US demands a wide variety of cheese types from around the world. The most commonly imported cheeses include well-known varieties such as Cheddar, as well as specialty cheeses like Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano.

Importing cheese into the US is subject to strict regulations set by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the US Department of Agriculture (USDA). These regulations focus on ingredients, processing methods, and health and safety standards.

Recognition and Challenges

The quality of American cheese has gained international recognition, with some American-made cheeses winning awards at prestigious events like the World Cheese Awards. This has prompted European interest in American creameries, with some being purchased by European companies.

However, the American cheese industry also faces challenges, including climate change, outdated federal regulations, and the impact of the pandemic. These issues have disrupted production and threatened the livelihoods of cheesemakers.

The future of American artisanal cheese

The artisanal cheese scene in the United States is vibrant and dynamic, with a growing number of producers and consumers embracing the craft. The future of this industry holds promise, with a few key trends and challenges that will shape its trajectory.

One notable development is the increasing demand for artisanal, speciality, and premium cheeses. Consumers are becoming more discerning, seeking out unique flavours, sustainability, ethical sourcing, and local alternatives. This shift in consumer preferences presents an opportunity for cheesemakers to expand their product range and cater to more selective palates. The rise of online shopping and direct sales during the pandemic also brought makers closer to customers, allowing them to reinforce messages of short supply chains, provenance, and integrity of raw ingredients.

Standing out from the competition is crucial for success, and cheesemakers are focusing on brand loyalty, exceptional products, and clear differentiation. The Specialist Cheesemakers Association, for example, supports cheesemakers in maximising opportunities and meeting customer expectations.

Another trend influencing the future of American artisanal cheese is the rise of vegan and plant-based alternatives. The number of vegans in the US has more than doubled since 2009, and sales of mass-produced and artisanal vegan cheeses have surged. These alternatives, made from soy, tapioca, or nut milks, attract former cheese lovers who have embraced veganism. While traditional domestic cheese still relies on cow's milk, the popularity of vegan and goat cheeses reflects a cultural shift towards more humane and environmentally sustainable agricultural practices.

Challenges also lie ahead for the industry. Climate change, outdated federal regulations, and the pandemic have posed significant obstacles for artisanal cheesemakers. Additionally, the impact of rising milk prices and the loss of the Milk Marketing Board have created instability for dairy farmers, with some opting to decertify and move away from organic farming.

Despite these challenges, the future of American artisanal cheese looks bright. The industry is expected to continue evolving and adapting to meet the changing demands of consumers, with a focus on quality, sustainability, and innovation. The United States' artisanal cheese scene is gaining global recognition, and its influence is being felt in other parts of the world, such as Australia.

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