Patrick Oconnell
Macaroni and cheese is a popular dish in the United States, with its origins traced back to medieval England and ancient Rome. The dish was popularised in the US by Thomas Jefferson, who served it at a state dinner in 1802, although it was his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who learned to cook it during his training in Paris. Over time, macaroni and cheese became a staple in the kitchens of elite families in the American South, with Black women cooks dominating the workforce and becoming the gatekeepers of this tradition. Today, macaroni and cheese is considered a comfort food and has become a part of the Soul Food canon, with many African Americans continuing the tradition of enjoying it during weekends and celebrations. While the dish has spread across the country, there are notable differences between the Southern Macaroni and Cheese and the versions found outside the South, with the former being a magical dish consisting of elbow noodles, fresh seasonings, milk, and grated cheeses.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Origin | Medieval England |
| Traditional preparation | Baked in the oven in a casserole dish |
| Alternative preparation | Prepared in a saucepan on a stove |
| Traditional ingredients | Macaroni, cheese, butter, béchamel sauce, Parmesan |
| Other ingredients | Cream, egg yolks, mace, mustard, Cheshire cheese |
| Introduction to the US | James Hemings, Thomas Jefferson's enslaved black chef |
| US soul food | Popularised by Black women cooks in the South |
| Southern mac and cheese | Elbow noodles, fresh seasonings, milk, grated cheese |
| Southern mac and cheese outside the South | Cavatappi noodles, watered-down cheddar sauce, bread crumbs, bacon |
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What You'll Learn
Macaroni and cheese's origins
Macaroni and cheese, also known as 'mac and cheese' or 'macaroni cheese', is a dish of pasta and cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins are thought to trace back to cheese and pasta casseroles in medieval England. The dish was also recorded in Italy during the Renaissance, and later in Switzerland in the 19th century.
Medieval England
The earliest known recipe for a dish resembling macaroni and cheese is from "The Forme of Cury", a collection of medieval English recipes dating back to 1390. The recipe, called "makerouns", describes a casserole of cheese and pasta, made with fresh, hand-cut pasta sandwiched between a mixture of melted butter and cheese.
In 1769, an English recipe book by Elizabeth Raffald included a recipe for macaroni and cheese, which may be the first reference to the dish with béchamel sauce. The recipe calls for a béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese (a Mornay sauce in French cooking), mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden.
Renaissance Italy
During the Renaissance, Italians also enjoyed a dish of pasta and cheese, which later made its way across the Atlantic to American households. In the early 19th century, "macaroni" generally referred to dried tubular pasta outside of Italy.
Switzerland
In 1731, the monastery of Disentis in Switzerland purchased a macaroni machine. Monasteries in the country were also known for cheesemaking. Around the 19th century, a traditional Swiss dish called Älplermagronen (or "Alpine herder's macaroni") became popular. Älplermagronen is made with macaroni, cream, cheese, roasted onions, and sometimes potatoes, bacon, or ham.
The United States
Macaroni and cheese was likely introduced to the United States by Thomas Jefferson, who brought a pasta maker with him after tasting the dish during his tour of Northern Italy. Jefferson's enslaved black chef, James Hemings, is also credited with introducing the dish to elite families in the American South after learning to cook it in France.
In 1824, a recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in the cookbook "The Virginia Housewife", written by Mary Randolph, Jefferson's daughter's sister-in-law. The recipe included three ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. Similar recipes for macaroni and cheese appeared in cookbooks throughout the 19th century, including "The Carolina Housewife" (1847), "Modern Cookery in All Its Branches" (1845), and "Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management" (1861).
During World War II, rationing led to macaroni and cheese becoming even more popular in the United States, as it was a comforting and affordable meal. Today, it continues to be a popular comfort food, with packaged versions from brands like Kraft Dinner being widely enjoyed.
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Black women's role in popularising the dish
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a dish with a long history. While its exact origins are unknown, it is believed to have evolved from early cheese and pasta casseroles. The dish has become a staple in many cultures and is especially popular in the United States, where it has been influenced by the culinary traditions of both White and African-American communities.
When examining the role of Black women in popularising mac and cheese, it is essential to acknowledge the contributions of enslaved Black women cooks in the Antebellum South. Food historian Adrian Miller highlights that while Thomas Jefferson is often credited with introducing mac and cheese to the United States, it was his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who actually learned to cook the dish. Hemings, a skilled chef, is believed to have brought the recipe to the United States from France, where he trained.
In the Antebellum South, mac and cheese was considered a weekend and celebration dish by African Americans. This tradition has been carried forward by many African Americans to the present day. The culinary traditions of Black women, passed down through generations, have played a significant role in shaping the popularity and preparation of mac and cheese.
Black women, particularly in the South, continued to innovate and perfect mac and cheese recipes, ensuring its popularity within the community. The dish's versatility and affordability also contributed to its widespread adoption. Recipes were shared within families and adapted to personal tastes and available ingredients, leading to a variety of unique interpretations of the dish.
The role of Black women in popularising mac and cheese extends beyond the historical context of the Antebellum South. In more recent times, Black women chefs and entrepreneurs, such as Sylvia Woods of Sylvia's restaurant in Harlem, have continued to influence the dish's popularity. Additionally, the rise of social media platforms like TikTok has provided a new avenue for Black women to showcase their culinary traditions and family recipes, reaching a wider audience and further solidifying the dish's place in popular culture.
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The dish in the North vs. the South
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a dish with a long history. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England and Ancient Rome, and it has since become popular in many parts of the world, including the United States, Canada, and Switzerland. While it is a beloved dish across the United States, there are some notable differences between how it is prepared and enjoyed in the North and the South.
In the South, macaroni and cheese is considered a traditional dish with cultural significance. It is often associated with soul food, a culinary tradition that celebrates the foods that have sustained Black communities throughout American history. The perpetuation of macaroni and cheese as a soul food dish is attributed to the influence of Black women cooks, who dominated the kitchens of elite families in the American South and passed down the recipe through generations. In the Antebellum South, mac and cheese was a weekend and celebration food, and this tradition has been continued by many African Americans to the present day.
Southern macaroni and cheese is typically prepared with medium-sized elbow noodles, fresh seasonings, milk, and grated cheeses. It is baked in the oven for a few hours, resulting in a thick, custard-like consistency. The intention and attention to detail in Southern mac and cheese set it apart, with family recipes being passed down and carefully guarded.
In contrast, "Southern Macaroni and Cheese" as it appears on menus outside the South is often a watered-down version, with thick cavatappi noodles, a diluted cheddar sauce, and random toppings like breadcrumbs or bacon. These versions, found across the East Coast, are considered a misrepresentation of the Southern culinary tradition.
While mac and cheese is a beloved comfort food across the United States, the South takes great pride in its version of the dish, preserving its unique heritage and flavour. The North, meanwhile, has adopted a more simplified and accessible approach to the dish, reflecting the influence of convenience and industrialization on American food culture.
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Thomas Jefferson and James Hemings' influence
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a popular dish in North America with a long history. While it is often assumed that Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States, brought macaroni and cheese to the country, it was actually his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who learned to cook it and brought the recipe to the United States.
Thomas Jefferson had a well-documented love for macaroni and cheese. In 1802, he served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner, which was reported by Reverend Manasseh Cutler. Jefferson also imported Italian Parmesan cheese until his death and was gifted a 1200-pound cheese wheel by a Baptist congregation in Massachusetts in 1801. However, it is important to note that Jefferson likely never cooked the dish himself, as he had many enslaved people working in his kitchen, and he is known to have only entered the kitchen to fix the clocks.
James Hemings, on the other hand, was a highly skilled chef and the first American-trained master chef. He spent five years with Thomas Jefferson in Paris from 1784 to 1789, learning French cuisine while Jefferson acted as the United States minister to France. Hemings brought macaroni and cheese to America, and Jefferson frequently requested it to be served. Hemings was eventually granted his freedom in 1796 after training his brother, Peter, to take his place as Jefferson's chef.
The influence of Thomas Jefferson and James Hemings on the popularity of macaroni and cheese in the United States is significant. The dish was served at Monticello to many of the founding fathers, and Jefferson's daughter, Martha (Patsy), was married to the brother of Mary Randolph, the author of the influential 1824 cookbook "The Virginia Housewife," which included the first printed recipe for macaroni and cheese. This recipe had only three ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. According to culinary historian Karen Hess, this cookbook was the most influential of the 19th century. Similar recipes for macaroni and cheese appeared in other cookbooks of the 19th century, spreading as far west as Kansas and Missouri.
In conclusion, while Thomas Jefferson is often credited with popularizing macaroni and cheese in the United States, it was his enslaved chef, James Hemings, who learned to cook the dish and brought the recipe to the country. Hemings' mastery of French cuisine and his role as Jefferson's chef helped to spread the popularity of macaroni and cheese, making it a beloved dish in American culinary culture.
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Macaroni and cheese in Canada
Macaroni and cheese, also known as mac and cheese, is a popular dish in Canada. It is believed that the dish was brought to Canada by British immigrants from other parts of the British Empire. The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese in Canada can be traced back to Modern Practical Cookery, published in 1845. This recipe suggests a puff pastry lining, indicating upper-class refinement, and includes a sauce made from cream, egg yolks, mace, and mustard, topped with grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese. Canadian Cheddar cheese was also gaining popularity during this time and was likely used in macaroni and cheese recipes.
Over time, macaroni and cheese became accessible to a broader section of society, and while it lost its upper-class appeal, it gained popularity among the general public. Today, macaroni and cheese is considered a comfort food and is widely consumed in Canada. Kraft Dinner, a packaged brand of macaroni and cheese, is particularly popular and is often referred to as "Kraft macaroni and cheese" or "Kraft dinner." It has become so iconic in Canada that it is sometimes considered the country's national dish, surpassing even poutine in popularity according to Sasha Chapman, writing in The Walrus. Canadians consume over 50% more Kraft macaroni and cheese than Americans, with 1.7 million boxes sold in Canada out of 7 million boxes sold worldwide each week.
The popularity of Kraft Dinner in Canada can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, it is convenient and easy to prepare, making it a quick and affordable meal option. Secondly, it holds a nostalgic value for many Canadians, reminding them of their childhood and young adulthood. Additionally, the brand has effectively marketed its product, with creative shapes like Spongebobs, and it has become ingrained in Canadian pop culture, as referenced in the South Park cartoon.
While Kraft Dinner is the most popular packaged brand, Canadians also enjoy making their own homemade versions of macaroni and cheese. Recipes often include a combination of Canadian old Cheddar, Asiago, or aged Provolone cheese, along with milk, flour, mustard, pepper, and nutmeg. Some recipes add a twist with ingredients like sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, thyme, and Gruyère cheese. Macaroni and cheese is often baked in the oven, resulting in a bubbly and golden dish.
In conclusion, macaroni and cheese holds a special place in the culinary culture of Canada. It has evolved from its early days as an upper-class dish to become a beloved comfort food enjoyed by people of all ages. Whether it's the convenient Kraft Dinner or a homemade creation, macaroni and cheese continues to be a staple in Canadian cuisine.
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Frequently asked questions
Macaroni and cheese is a dish that combines pasta with a cheese sauce. It is often made with elbow macaroni and cheddar sauce, and sometimes includes additional ingredients like milk, seasonings, and breadcrumbs.
The origins of macaroni and cheese can be traced back to medieval England and Ancient Rome. A recipe for a dish resembling macaroni and cheese, called "makerouns," can be found in the 1390 English text "The Forme of Cury." It includes hand-cut pasta, butter, and cheese. Over time, the dish evolved and spread to other parts of the world, including Switzerland, France, and the American colonies.
Macaroni and cheese became a staple of Southern cuisine and Soul Food due to the influence of Black women cooks in the kitchens of elite families in the American South. It was also popularized by Thomas Jefferson, who served a "pie called macaroni" at a state dinner in 1802, prepared by his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings. In the Antebellum South, macaroni and cheese was considered a weekend and celebration food, and this tradition has been continued by many African Americans.
Southern macaroni and cheese is known for using medium-sized elbow noodles, fresh seasonings, milk, and grated cheeses. It is baked in the oven for several hours, resulting in a thick, custard-like consistency. In contrast, the "Southern macaroni and cheese" found on menus outside the South often features thick cavatappi noodles, watered-down cheddar sauce, and breadcrumb toppings, which some consider a misrepresentation of the traditional Southern dish.
Macaroni and cheese gained widespread popularity in North America due to its affordability and accessibility. Factory production of its main ingredients, such as dried durum wheat pasta and processed cheese, made it economical and convenient. Additionally, the dish's versatility allowed for various interpretations and adaptations, solidifying its place as a comfort food in North American cuisine.
