Cheese, The Traditional Way: A Guide To Classic Methods

what are traditionally made cheese

Cheese is a beloved food worldwide, with over 500 different varieties recognized by the International Dairy Federation. Traditionally made cheese is crafted by artisans known as fromagers or cheesemakers, using milk, cultures, coagulants, and salt as the primary ingredients. The process involves transforming milk into a solid by removing water and acidifying the milk, with the amount of water removal dictating the cheese's longevity. This craft has been honed over centuries, with the pioneers of cheesemaking in America being the women of farmsteads across the country.

Characteristics Values
Number of varieties More than 1,000
Milk source Cow, goat, sheep, buffalo, camel, horse, yak
Texture Soft, semi-soft, semi-hard, hard
Firmness Depends on moisture content
Taste Influenced by the animal's diet, geographical location, and natural environment
Colour White (goat's milk cheese)
Flavour Distinctive (goat's milk cheese)
Yield Lower yield (goat's milk cheese)
Bacteria Lactococcus, Lactobacillus, Streptococcus, Propionibacterium freudenreichii
Rennet Animal-derived, recombinant, or vegetarian
Salt Non-iodized or cheese salt
Aging time Few days to several years
Mold Penicillium, added to surface or injected
Rind Natural, bloomy, washed, flavoured
Preservation Smoking, refrigeration

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Traditional cheesemaking is a difficult process

After pasteurisation, good bacteria or "starter cultures" are added to the milk. These starter cultures ferment the lactose, the milk's natural sugar, into lactic acid. Different types of cultures are used to create different types of cheese. For example, Swiss cheese uses one type of culture, while Brie and Blue use different ones. The starter cultures are followed by the addition of a few other ingredients, including rennet, and depending on the type of cheese, colour—which is why cheddar is orange.

Rennet is an enzyme that causes the milk to gel and then separate into curds (the solids) and whey (the liquid). The amount of rennet and time needed for the milk to separate vary depending on the type of cheese. Once the gel forms, cheesemakers cut it, allowing the whey to come out. The curds are then cut, stirred, and heated to release more whey. For drier cheeses, the curds are cut more to form smaller curds, while curds that are cut less are larger and moister.

Salt is then added to enhance the flavour and regulate moisture content, which affects the texture of the cheese. The type of salt used is important, with cheesemakers typically using non-iodised salt or cheese salt. Finally, the curds are put into cheese moulds lined with cheesecloths and pressed overnight to allow the curd particles to bind together.

The process of traditional cheesemaking is intricate and requires a lot of attention to detail. Each step must be carefully executed to ensure the cheese turns out as desired. The environment in which the cheese is made also plays a crucial role, as the specific conditions of air temperature and humidity, bacterial and mould activity, and milk source all contribute to the unique characteristics of the final product.

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Different types of milk are used

While most cheeses are made from cow's milk, different types of milk are used to make cheese, including sheep's milk, goat's milk, and buffalo milk. In some cases, even more obscure types of milk, such as camel's milk, horse milk, or yak milk, are used to make regional specialty cheeses. The type of milk used contributes to the distinct flavours and textures of different cheeses. For example, sheep's milk, which is high in lactose, is used to make Roquefort, feta, petit basque, and manchego. Goat's milk lends a tangy flavour to cheeses like Le Chevrot and French Bucheron. Goat milk cheese is also known as chevre.

Buffalo milk has become the traditional choice for mozzarella, although most mass-produced varieties are now made with cow's milk. The type of animal and its diet can influence the characteristics of the cheese produced. For instance, the diet of cows can affect the fat and protein content of their milk, which in turn impacts the cheese-making process and the final product.

In addition to the type of milk, the process of cheesemaking also varies according to the specific bacteria or "starter cultures" added. These bacteria transform the lactose in milk into lactic acid, causing the milk to curdle and separate into solid curds and liquid whey. Different types of bacteria are used to create different types of cheese. For example, Swiss cheese uses one type of culture, while Brie and Blue use others. The amount of bacteria, the speed of setting, and the level of acidity all play a role in determining the style of cheese that will be created.

The addition of rennet, an enzyme derived from the stomachs of calves and other mammals, is another crucial factor in cheesemaking. Rennet acts as a coagulant, causing the milk to gel and helping to form the curd. Altering the amount of rennet and the time allowed for it to separate into curds can vary the characteristics of the final product. Salt is also added to most cheeses to enhance flavour, regulate moisture content, and control bacteria growth. The type of salt used is important, with cheesemakers typically opting for non-iodized salt or cheese salt as iodine can affect the cheese's flavour and texture.

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Bacteria and mould are used to create flavour

The role of bacteria and mould in creating flavour in cheese is undeniable. Bacteria and mould are used during the cheese-making process to shape the flavour and texture of the final product. The different types of bacteria and mould used will determine the flavour and texture of the cheese. For example, cheddar is made using a combination of bacteria such as Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactococcus lactis, which give it a tangy, sharp flavour and a firm texture. On the other hand, Brie is made using a different combination of bacteria, including Penicillium candidum, which gives it its characteristic soft texture and nutty, buttery flavour.

During the cheese-making process, specific types of bacteria and mould are added to milk to ferment it and create the desired flavour and texture. These microorganisms break down the lactose in the milk, releasing lactic acid, which helps to coagulate the milk and form curds. The milk is warmed to the optimal growth temperature of microbes in the starter culture to increase the rate of fermentation. The acid produced during fermentation helps to form curds, which are cut into small pieces to facilitate the expulsion of moisture, referred to as whey, from the curds.

The type of milk used can also affect the flavour of the cheese. For example, goat's milk lends a distinctive tangy flavour to cheeses like Le Chevrot and French Bucheron, while buffalo milk is the traditional choice for mozzarella. The environmental factors, such as the terroir, also play a crucial role in shaping the cheese's characteristics. This includes the type of pasture that the cows or goats graze on, as well as the local microorganisms present in the environment. For instance, a cheese made from the milk of cows that graze on wildflower-rich pastures will have a different flavour profile compared to cheese made from cows that graze elsewhere.

In addition, bacteria and mould play a role in the aging process of cheese. As cheese ages, the bacteria and mould continue to grow and ferment, giving the cheese a stronger flavour and a different texture. For example, a young cheddar will have a milder flavour and a softer texture compared to an aged cheddar, which will have a sharper flavour and a firmer texture. Similarly, a young blue cheese will have a milder flavour and a softer texture compared to an aged blue cheese, which will have a stronger, more pungent flavour and a crumbly texture.

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Salt is added to enhance flavour and texture

Traditionally made cheese is crafted from a variety of milk sources, including cows, sheep, goats, and even buffalo or camels. The process of making cheese involves separating milk into solid curds and liquid whey, and then allowing it to rest and age. This aging period, also known as ripening, allows microbes and enzymes to work on the cheese, transforming its texture and intensifying its flavour.

Cheese is made with a combination of milk, cultures, coagulants, and salt. While the type of milk and cultures used can vary, salt is a common ingredient added to most cheeses. Cheesemakers typically use non-iodized salt or cheese salt, as iodine can affect the flavour and texture of the final product.

Salt serves multiple purposes in cheese. Firstly, it acts as a preservative, helping to prevent spoilage and the growth of harmful pathogens. This function is particularly important in the traditional aging process, where microbes are allowed to settle and grow on the cheese. Secondly, salt contributes directly to the flavour of the cheese. It enhances the flavour profile and can influence the development of specific flavours, such as controlling the formation of bitter flavours. Finally, salt affects the texture of the cheese. It regulates moisture content, influencing the hardness and cohesiveness of the final product.

The amount of salt added to cheese can vary, with salt levels ranging from approximately 0.7% in Swiss-type cheeses to around 6% in Domiati cheese. The salt level has a significant impact on the overall quality of the cheese, affecting not only flavour and texture but also cooking performance. Precise control of salt uptake and distribution is crucial in the cheesemaking process to ensure consistent and optimal quality.

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Cheeses are left to rest and age

During the ageing process, microbes and enzymes break down casein proteins and milk fat, transforming them into a complex mixture of amino acids, amines, and fatty acids. This breakdown gives rise to the distinct flavours and textures characteristic of different types of cheese. The ageing environment, whether a natural cave or a controlled cellar, plays a significant role in this transformation.

The size of the cheese also matters during ageing. Larger cheeses tend to age better, and it is recommended to wax and age the entire wheel of cheese in one piece. Waxing helps maintain the ideal moisture content, and it can be done at home by dipping, cooling, and then dipping the cheese again. However, it's important to monitor the temperature during ageing, as higher temperatures can cause butterfat to seep through the wax.

The type of milk used also influences the ageing process. For example, sheep's milk, known for its high lactose content, is used to make Roquefort, feta, petit basque, and manchego cheeses. Goat's milk lends a tangy flavour to cheeses like Le Chevrot and French Bucheron, while buffalo milk is the traditional choice for mozzarella.

The addition of bacteria or moulds before or during ageing further contributes to the unique characteristics of the cheese. In traditional cheesemaking, these microbes might already be present in the ageing room, but today, prepared cultures are more commonly used to ensure consistent results and reduce constraints on the ageing environment.

Frequently asked questions

Cows' milk is the most common type of milk used to make cheese due to its wide availability and optimal fat and protein content. However, sheep's milk, goat's milk, buffalo milk, camel's milk, horse milk, and yak milk are also used to make cheese.

The four primary ingredients found in most cheeses are milk, cultures, coagulants, and salt. Other ingredients like spices, herbs, and even wine are added for flavour.

First, milk is collected from dairy farms and taken to a cheese plant where it is tested for quality and purity. The milk is then filtered, standardised, and pasteurised. After pasteurisation, good bacteria or "starter cultures" are added to the milk to ferment the lactose into lactic acid. Finally, cheesemakers add salt to enhance flavour and regulate moisture content.

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