Patrick Oconnell
Blue cheese is a pungent, crumbly cheese with a distinctive blue mould appearance and strong flavour. It is made using cow's, goat's or sheep's milk and is ripened with cultures of the mould Penicillium roqueforti. The history of blue cheese dates back to the 7th century, when, according to legend, it was discovered in a cave near Roquefort-sur-Soulzon in France. A young shepherd is said to have left his bread and ewe's milk cheese in the cave, only to return months later to find that the cheese had been infested with penicillium roqueforti, a mould growing in the cave. Today, blue cheese is produced worldwide, with specialist varieties including Gorgonzola from Italy, Roquefort from France and Stilton from England.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Legend | A young boy eating bread and ewes' milk cheese abandoned his meal in a cave after seeing a beautiful girl in the distance. When he returned months later, the mold (Penicillium roqueforti) had transformed his cheese into the first blue cheese, Roquefort. |
| Discovery | The mold that makes blue cheese was discovered in a cave outside the village of Roquefort in France. |
| Gorgonzola | One of the oldest known blue cheeses, created around 879 AD. |
| Stilton | A relatively new addition, becoming popular in the early 1700s. |
| Production | Commercial-scale production consists of two phases: culturing suitable spore-rich inocula and fermentation for maximum flavor. |
| Ingredients | Salt, sugar, homogenized milk, Penicillium roqueforti culture, modified milk fat, calf pre-gastric esterase, pasteurized or unpasteurized cow's, goat's or sheep's milk. |
| Process | Incubation, aerobic incubation, whey drainage, brine salting or dry salting, ripening, piercing with needles or skewers to allow oxygen to reach the inside of the cheese. |
| Flavor | Strong, pungent, salty, creamy, nutty, sharp, mild, crumbly, intense. |
| Pairings | Honey, walnuts, sliced apple, pear, citrus fruit, dried fruits, figs, grapes, red wine, pistachios, quiches, pizzas, salads. |
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What You'll Learn
The legend of Roquefort
Days later, having failed to find the girl, the shepherd returned to the cave, only to find his meal covered in mould. He tasted the cheese anyway and discovered that the Penicillium Roqueforti mould had transformed his cheese into the delicious Roquefort. This accidental discovery is said to be how one of the first blue cheeses was created.
Roquefort is a French classic, crafted with liquid Penicillium Roqueforti found in damp caves. The process involves combining ewe's milk and ageing it for a minimum of 90 days in the natural limestone caves of Roquefort and cellars. The magic recipe creates a rich, intense flavour that balances the blue mould aroma, resulting in a creamy, moist texture. The ivory-coloured paste with emerald-green veining has made Roquefort famous worldwide, earning it the title of "King of Cheeses" by Diderot during the Age of Enlightenment.
Over the years, Roquefort has received numerous accolades and recognitions. In 1925, it became the first cheese to obtain an Appellation d'Origine (AO) distinction, later achieving the coveted European Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status in 1996. The Société brand, known for its Roquefort cheese, celebrated its 160th anniversary in 2023, showcasing its ancient original wrapper and hosting various events. The brand continues to innovate, satisfying Roquefort lovers worldwide.
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Gorgonzola and other ancient blue cheeses
Gorgonzola, created around AD 879, is one of the oldest known blue cheeses. However, it is believed that the cheese did not develop its iconic blue veins until the 11th century. The cheese is known for its distinct look, with a clear white backdrop marbled with intersected blue veins. Gorgonzola Dolce, a variety of Gorgonzola, was named the world's best cheese at the World Cheese Awards in 2023.
Another ancient blue cheese is Roquefort, which has enjoyed AOC protected status since 1925. Legend has it that a young boy eating bread and ewe's milk cheese left his meal in a cave after seeing a beautiful girl in the distance. When he returned months later, the cheese had transformed into Roquefort. Analysis of paleofeces sampled in the salt mines of Hallstatt, Austria, also showed that miners of the Hallstatt Period (800 to 400 BC) consumed blue cheese and beer.
Blue cheese is a general classification of cheeses that have had cultures of the mold Penicillium added, resulting in a blue or blue-grey mold and a distinct smell. The mold requires oxygen to grow, so the initial fermentation of the cheese is done by lactic acid bacteria. The lactic acid bacteria are then killed by the low pH, and the secondary fermenters, Penicillium roqueforti, take over and break down the lactic acid, maintaining a pH in the aged cheese above 6.0. As the pH rises again, the enzymes in the molds responsible for lipolysis and proteolysis become more active and can continue to ferment the cheese, as they are optimal at a pH of 6.0.
Other ancient blue cheeses include Stichelton, an ancient British blue cheese recipe crafted with raw milk, and Shropshire Blue, originally believed to have been made in Scotland but now produced in the Stilton-producing regions of Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire, and Derbyshire.
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Industrialisation and genetic diversity
The industrialization of blue cheese production has resulted in a preference for mould strains that quickly mature the cheese. This is similar to what has occurred in crop and livestock production. The loss of genetic diversity in blue cheese moulds reduces the ability to adapt to changing conditions and innovate in food production. While the cheese-making industry maintains multiple mould strains to produce varying strengths of blue cheese, the overall genetic diversity is still significantly reduced compared to pre-industrial times.
The mould Penicillium roqueforti is essential to the production of blue cheese. It is prepared as an inoculum before being added to the cheese during production. Commercially, this mould is manufactured and freeze-dried before use, although it can be found naturally. The freeze-drying process involves sublimation, where water is evaporated from the frozen state without transitioning to a liquid. This process preserves the culture's value, and it is reactivated when water is added.
To create blue cheese, salt, sugar, or both are added to autoclaved, homogenized milk through a sterile solution. This mixture is then inoculated with Penicillium roqueforti and incubated for three to four days at 21–25 °C (70–77 °F). More salt and/or sugar is added, and aerobic incubation continues for another one to two days. Alternatively, a fermentation medium can be created by mixing sterilized, homogenized milk and reconstituted non-fat or whey solids with sterile salt. A spore-rich Penicillium roqueforti culture is then added, along with modified milk fat, which stimulates the release of free fatty acids, contributing to the rapid flavour development of blue cheese.
After ladling the curds into containers to drain and form into cheese wheels, the Penicillium roqueforti inoculum is sprinkled on top, along with Brevibacterium linens. The curds are then moulded into cheese loaves with an open texture. This step is followed by whey drainage for 10–48 hours, with frequent inversion of the moulds to promote drainage. Salt is added as a preservative, and the cheese undergoes brine or dry salting for 24–48 hours. The final step is ripening the cheese through ageing, which typically takes 60–90 days to develop the desired flavour profile for marketing.
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The cheesemaking process
The first step in crafting blue cheese is selecting the right milk. Traditionally, cow's, sheep's, or goat's milk is used, with each type imparting distinct flavour profiles and characteristics to the final product. The milk is then carefully heated to the optimal temperature, typically around 30–35°C (86–95°F). This step is crucial, as higher temperatures can kill the mould cultures that are essential for blue cheese.
Once the milk is ready, a starter culture, consisting of specific bacteria, is added. These bacteria begin the process of turning milk into curds and whey by consuming the lactose (milk sugar) and producing lactic acid. This step also contributes to the development of flavour and the creation of the optimal environment for mould growth. After adding the starter culture, the milk is left to sit for a period, allowing the bacteria to work and begin the curdling process.
The next step is the addition of mould cultures. For blue cheese, this is usually Penicillium Roqueforti or Penicillium Glaucum. These moulds are responsible for the characteristic blue veins and distinctive pungent flavour of blue cheese. The mould culture is carefully mixed into the milk, ensuring even distribution. Then, rennet, a complex mixture of enzymes produced in the stomachs of ruminant animals, is added to the milk. Rennet causes the milk to coagulate, separating it into solid curds and liquid whey. The curds are then carefully cut into uniform sizes, which allows for the release of moisture and the development of a firmer texture.
After cutting, the curds and whey are gently heated, a process known as "cooking the curds." This step further expels moisture and encourages the curds to knit together into a solid mass. Once the desired texture and moisture level are achieved, the curds are carefully transferred into moulds or forms. These moulds give the cheese its final shape and facilitate the removal of any remaining whey. During this stage, the cheese is also salted, either by adding salt directly to the curds or by brining the formed cheese. Salting not only enhances flavour but also plays a role in controlling the growth of mould and bacteria.
The final critical step is piercing the cheese with thin metal rods or needles to create air channels. This process introduces oxygen to the interior of the cheese, encouraging the growth of mould and the development of the signature blue veins. The cheese is then aged in carefully controlled environments, typically caves or special ageing rooms, with specific temperature and humidity conditions. During ageing, the mould cultures grow and develop, creating the characteristic blue veins and imparting flavour to the cheese. The ageing process can last from a few weeks to several months, depending on the desired style and intensity of flavour.
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Blue cheese pairings
Blue cheese is a pungent and versatile ingredient, with a strong aroma and a distinctive umami flavour. It is made from cow's, goat's or sheep's milk and is characterised by its blue veins and crumbly texture.
When it comes to pairings, blue cheese is a popular choice for cheeseboards, adding colour, texture and a punchy flavour. It pairs well with fruits such as grapes, apples, pears, dried fruits and figs. It is also delicious with walnuts, honey and pistachios.
For those who enjoy a glass of wine with their cheese, blue cheese works well with intense red wines or sweet dessert wines. A French classic, Roquefort, is best paired with red wine, apples and walnuts. Another renowned blue cheese, Gorgonzola, is versatile and can add zest to risottos, pastas or pizzas. It also pairs well with walnuts and honey.
For a stronger, more intense blue cheese, try Stilton, which has a complex and nutty flavour. This pairs well with honey, walnuts and sliced apple. For a less salty option, Gorgonzola Dolce is a creamy and mild alternative.
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Frequently asked questions
Blue cheese is a generic term used to describe cheese produced with cow's milk, sheep's milk, or goat's milk and ripened with cultures of the mold Penicillium roqueforti.
The process of making blue cheese involves specific steps to encourage the growth of the characteristic blue mold. First, the cheese is typically made from cow's, sheep's, or goat's milk. Then, Penicillium roqueforti is added to the milk along with other starter cultures.
The history of blue cheese starts in a cave outside of Roquefort, France, in the seventh century. According to legend, a shepherd was distracted by a beautiful woman and abandoned his lunch of bread and cheese in the cave. When he returned months later, the cheese had turned moldy with Penicillium roqueforti, and thus, blue cheese was invented.
