Mac And Cheese: A Historical Comfort Food

Macaroni and cheese, colloquially known as 'mac and cheese' or 'macaroni cheese' in the UK, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins are disputed, but it is thought to trace back to medieval England or Italy. The dish was popularised in the US by Thomas Jefferson, but it was his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who learned to cook it in France and brought the recipe to the US. The earliest written and recognised macaroni and cheese recipe is thought to be from the 13th-century Italian cookbook 'Liber de Coquina'.

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Early recipes: from Italy to England

Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to Italy and England.

The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese is found in the 13th-century Italian cookbook "Liber de Coquina", which includes a dish called de lasanis. The book provides instructions for making fresh pasta and melting parmesan cheese.

In England, macaroni and cheese evolved from cheese and pasta casseroles that were popular in medieval times. The earliest English recipe for macaroni and cheese dates back to 1769 and can be found in Elizabeth Raffald's book, "The Experienced English Housekeeper". Raffald's recipe is for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese (known as Mornay sauce in French cooking), which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden.

Another early mention of macaroni and cheese in England can be found in the 1824 cookbook "The Virginia House-Wife" written by Mary Randolph. Randolph's recipe included only three ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven. This cookbook was highly influential in the 19th century, according to culinary historian Karen Hess. Similar recipes for macaroni and cheese appeared in cookbooks throughout the 19th century, including the 1852 "Hand-book of Useful Arts" and the 1861 "Godey's Lady's Book".

Macaroni and cheese was also popular in other parts of Europe, such as Switzerland, where monasteries were known for cheesemaking and the purchase of a macaroni machine in 1731. A traditional Swiss dish called Älplermagronen (Alpine herder's macaroni), made of macaroni, cream, cheese, roasted onions, and sometimes potatoes, became popular in the 19th century.

Thomas Jefferson and James Hemings: the US story

While the origin story of macaroni and cheese is a topic highly subject to mythmaking, it is widely believed that Thomas Jefferson, with the help of his enslaved black chef, James Hemings, popularised the dish in the United States.

Jefferson, who was interested in extruded pasta, brought Hemings, his primary chef, to France to study culinary arts. Hemings, who was born in 1765, was the sixth child of Elizabeth Hemings, an enslaved woman, and John Wayles, the father-in-law of Jefferson. In France, Hemings apprenticed with a caterer, a pastry chef, and even as a chef for the prince de Condé. In 1787, Hemings was appointed chef de cuisine at Jefferson's home in Paris, supervising white servants in the kitchen. In 1789, despite learning that he was legally a free man under French law, Hemings chose to return to Virginia with Jefferson, still enslaved.

Jefferson's interest in pasta led him to smuggle a pasta machine from Naples to the United States. Jefferson wanted Hemings to introduce macaroni and cheese to the elite families of the American South. In 1802, Jefferson served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner, as reported by Reverend Manasseh Cutler. The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in the 1824 cookbook "The Virginia House-Wife", written by Mary Randolph. The recipe included three ingredients: macaroni, cheese, and butter, layered together and baked in a hot oven.

The popularity of macaroni and cheese in the United States can be attributed to several factors, including its versatility, comfort food status, and the quest for affordable protein. It is also important to acknowledge the contributions of Black women in the United States, particularly in the Soul Food tradition, who played a significant role in popularising the dish and making it an integral part of American culinary culture.

Black women's influence: Soul Food canon

Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a dish with a long history. The earliest mention of pasta and cheese being combined dates back to 160 BCE, when Marcus Porcius Cato, an ultraconservative senator of the Roman Republic, wrote about it in his treatise "De Agri Cultura". Over the centuries, various cultures have adopted and adapted the dish to their liking. In medieval England, for instance, pasta and cheese casseroles were common. The dish also has roots in Switzerland, where a traditional dish called Älplermagronen (or "Alpine herder's macaroni") made of macaroni, cream, cheese, roasted onions, and sometimes potatoes, became popular in the 19th century.

In the United States, mac and cheese is considered a soul food dish with a rich African American history. It is believed that the dish was introduced to the country by James Hemings, an enslaved African American chef who created it after receiving culinary training in France. Hemings was enslaved by Thomas Jefferson, who brought him to France and later served "a pie called macaroni" at a state dinner in 1802. The dish was also included in the influential 1824 cookbook "The Virginia House-Wife", written by Mary Randolph.

Over time, mac and cheese became a staple in the Black community, taking on new meanings and identities. It became known as a "celebratory dish, a convenient comfort food, and a meal stretcher for impoverished families." The dish was also included in emergency food baskets distributed by the Harlem Relief and Employment Committee in 1930, demonstrating its importance as a nourishing and affordable meal. During World War II, boxed macaroni and cheese became a rationed product, further solidifying its place in the American culinary repertoire.

Black women, in particular, have played a significant role in shaping the legacy of mac and cheese as soul food. Soul food, a genre of cuisine that celebrates the foods that have sustained Black communities throughout American history, is heavily influenced by the collective wisdom and generational experience of Black women. Mac and cheese, with its creamy cheese sauce and soul food seasonings, has become a beloved dish within the Black community and has also gained widespread popularity across the United States.

Today, mac and cheese continues to be a versatile and comforting dish, enjoyed by people of all backgrounds. It can be made in various ways, from scratch to boxed mixes, and is often personalized with different cheeses, seasonings, and cooking methods. The dish has become so assimilated into the American foodscape that it is sometimes dismissed by Italians as a caloric Italian-American invention. However, its history is a testament to the rich cultural diversity and culinary creativity that has shaped American cuisine.

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Kraft's boxed mac and cheese: a 20th-century innovation

Macaroni and cheese, or 'mac and cheese', is a pasta dish of macaroni covered in cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England, and it was brought to the United States by James Hemings, Thomas Jefferson's enslaved chef, in the 18th century. The first recorded recipe for macaroni and cheese appeared in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, 'The Experienced English Housekeeper'.

In the 20th century, Kraft introduced boxed macaroni and cheese, capitalising on the invention of processed cheese, which extended the product's shelf life. The earliest known iteration of boxed macaroni and cheese came from a St. Louis, Missouri salesman named Grant Leslie, who sold macaroni pasta with grated cheese attached to the box with a rubber band. Kraft hired Leslie and began producing Kraft Macaroni & Cheese (known as Kraft Dinner or KD in Canada) in 1937. The product was marketed with the slogan "make a meal for four in nine minutes" and sold for 19 cents. During World War II, rationing further increased the product's popularity, as two boxes could be obtained for one food rationing stamp.

The success of Kraft's boxed macaroni and cheese can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, it was a convenient and inexpensive option for families, especially during the economic hardships of the Great Depression and World War II. Secondly, the product had a long shelf life, which was attractive at a time when many households lacked refrigeration. Additionally, Kraft's effective marketing campaigns, such as the "'Blue Box' campaign, helped to establish the product as a pantry staple.

Over the years, Kraft has introduced various flavour variations and formulations, including organic options, single-serving cups, and spiral-shaped noodles. Kraft Macaroni & Cheese has become an iconic dish in Canada, with Canadians purchasing nearly 25% of the 7 million boxes sold globally each week. It has also gained popularity in other countries, such as the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom.

In conclusion, Kraft's boxed macaroni and cheese is a 20th-century innovation that revolutionised the way people consumed macaroni and cheese. It transformed the dish from a laborious, multi-step preparation to a convenient and affordable meal that could be easily stored and prepared. Kraft's innovation not only shaped the food industry but also left a lasting impact on the culinary landscape of multiple countries.

Variations: from Canada to Switzerland

Macaroni and cheese is believed to have been brought to Canada by British immigrants, with recipes attested in the country since at least 1845. The Canadian version of the dish often includes a puff pastry lining, a sauce made from cream, egg yolks, mace, and mustard, and grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese on top. Canadian Cheddar cheese, which was becoming popular at the time, was also likely used. Today, macaroni and cheese is considered a national dish in Canada, with Kraft Dinner being the most popular brand of packaged macaroni and cheese.

In Scotland, macaroni and cheese is often found in pies, known as macaroni pies.

In Switzerland, a traditional dish called Älplermagronen (Alpine herder's macaroni) is made with macaroni, cream, cheese, roasted onions, and sometimes potatoes. The dish is believed to have originated in the 19th century, and bacon or ham is sometimes added to the recipe. The monastery of Disentis in Switzerland purchased a macaroni machine in 1731, and monasteries in the country were also known for cheesemaking.

The earliest known iteration of boxed macaroni and cheese came from a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, named Grant Leslie, who attached processed cheese produced by Kraft Foods to boxes of pasta. Kraft hired Leslie and began producing Kraft Macaroni & Cheese (known as Kraft Dinner or KD in Canada) in 1937, and it quickly became a success in the US and Canada during the Great Depression. During World War II, rationing further increased the popularity of boxed macaroni and cheese.

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