Andy Montoya
Affinage, the art of aging cheese, is a complex process that involves various techniques to prime the surface of the cheese. The aging environment is crucial for the success of the final cheese product, and it should be carefully controlled to provide the right conditions for the cheese to develop the desired characteristics. The usual environment for aging cheese is a cave, which provides stable temperature and humidity parameters. However, alternative environments, such as those inspired by Italian affinatori techniques, can also be used to introduce unique flavours and characteristics to the cheese. In this context, the choice of surface for aging cheese becomes important as it can impact the overall quality and taste of the final product.
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What You'll Learn
Waxing techniques
Waxing is one of the most effective ways to control moisture loss, prevent unwanted mould growth, and protect your cheese while ageing. It creates an airtight seal that preserves moisture, prevents unwanted mould, and allows you to control flavour development as the cheese ages.
- Dipping: This is the most common method. Hold the cheese by a corner, dip to coat, let the excess drip off, then place it on a rack to fully set before applying a second coat.
- Brushing: Melt food-grade wax in a double boiler to ~180 °F. Quickly brush on an even coat; let it set, then repeat for 2–3 coats.
- High-Heat Dipping: Heat wax directly (in a heavy pot or electric skillet) to 224–240 °F, then turn off the heat. Dip the top, bottom, and edges, letting each side cool before the next. Repeat for 2–3 coats.
- Low-Heat Dipping: Keep your wax between 200–250 °F—you’ll get the best results around 225 °F.
Before waxing, the cheese surface must be prepared. Dry the cheese under loose cheesecloth for 2–7 days, then remove any mould with a brine or vinegar wash. Let it air dry for 1–2 hours until tack-free.
After waxing, store both the wax and the brush in the same container used for melting, with a lid on top. Store the waxed cheese in the fridge's vegetable drawer at 38–42°F.
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Airflow and ventilation
To achieve optimal airflow, it is crucial to ensure that your cheeses are well-spaced and that your aging environment is not overcrowded. Regularly opening the door of your cheese fridge or cracking the lids on containers can also improve airflow. Maintaining the right balance of airflow and ventilation is a delicate task, as too much air movement can cause the cheese to dry out and crack. Therefore, constant surveillance and maintenance of the aging environment are necessary to achieve the best results.
The aging environment should be carefully controlled to provide the ideal conditions for the specific type of cheese being produced. Different cheeses require varying levels of humidity and ventilation. For example, some cheeses need specific molds to age, while others are susceptible to undesirable mold growth if exposed to too much airflow. Controlling the airflow and ventilation in the aging environment can help prevent the spread of unwanted molds.
Additionally, the geography and seasonality of the aging environment can impact airflow and ventilation. For instance, Italian "affinatori" (cheese aging professionals) travel throughout Italy to purchase the finest cheeses and age them in their own caves and cellars, taking advantage of the unique microclimates each region offers. Similarly, the terroir of Long Island City, with its varying Ph levels in the air and cross-pollination between different cheeses, contributes to the distinct character of the cheeses aged in this region.
In conclusion, airflow and ventilation play a crucial role in the art of aging cheese. By controlling these factors, cheese makers can influence the taste, texture, and overall quality of the final product. Finding the right balance of airflow and ventilation, combined with careful monitoring and maintenance, are key steps in crafting exceptional cheeses.
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Containers and environments
Cheese can be aged in a variety of containers, from plastic bags to clay pots. Vacuum sealing is an option to consider, as it simplifies the aging process. Alternatively, waxing is a popular method to control moisture loss, prevent unwanted mould growth, and protect the cheese during aging. To prepare the cheese surface for waxing, it should be dried under loose cheesecloth for 2–7 days, and any mould should be removed with a brine or vinegar wash. The cheese should then be allowed to air dry for 1–2 hours until tack-free. When waxing, it is important to monitor temperatures with a candy thermometer and stay nearby to avoid fire risks.
For those seeking a more experimental approach, inspired by Italian affinatori techniques, unique aging environments can be crafted using materials like straw and olive branches. Additionally, a honeycomb can be introduced to the container to create a semi-hard lactic goat cheese with a sweeter flavour.
Regardless of the container or environment, constant surveillance and maintenance of the aging process are crucial. This includes regularly checking the temperature, humidity, and ventilation, as well as inspecting the cheese for undesirable moulds. Proper spacing between cheeses and adequate airflow are also important considerations to prevent moisture loss and mould growth.
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Cleaning and maintenance
The cleaning and maintenance of your cheese depend on the type of cheese and the aging environment.
Waxed Cheese
If you are waxing your cheese, you will need to dedicate specific tools for waxing and place tinfoil on your surface to minimise mess. You can melt and store wax in a designated crock pot to cut down on clean-up time. After waxing, store your cheese at 52–56°F with 85% humidity, turn the cheese weekly, and inspect for mold under the wax as needed.
Molded Cheese
If you are aging your cheese in a mold, you will need to ensure that the curds are sufficiently dry before aging. If the curds are too moist, it will accelerate protein breakdown, resulting in a runny, overripe cheese. After aging, if you notice white mold on the surface of your cheese, you can carefully wipe it with brine (1 teaspoon of salt per cup of cool water) or a vinegar rinse.
Cheese Containers
If you are aging your cheese in a container, you will need to ensure that the container is clean and free of contaminants. You can create a unique aging environment within your container using materials like straw and olive branches, inspired by Italian affinatori techniques.
Aging Environment
The aging environment is crucial to the success of your cheese. You will need to constantly monitor the temperature, humidity, and ventilation to ensure that your cheese is aging properly. If you are aging your cheese in a cheese fridge, regularly leave the door open for a short period to let in fresh air and crack the lids on any containers. Additionally, you will need to regularly check your cheese for undesirable molds. While some cheeses require specific molds to age, unwanted molds can be dangerous and spread to your other cheeses.
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Ripening and mould
The ripening of cheese is a complex process that involves a combination of time, mould, yeast enzymes, and the cheese maker's techniques. The cheese maker's role during the ripening stage is to control, wash, and clean the cheese, but the majority of the work is done by mould, yeast enzymes, and time.
Mould-ripened cheeses, such as blue cheese, ripen from the surface inward, while interior-ripened cheeses, such as cheddar, ripen from the middle outwards. The ripening process significantly impacts the final taste and character of the cheese.
To prevent unwanted mould growth, cheese can be waxed. Waxing is a convenient and effective way to control moisture loss and protect the cheese during ripening. Before waxing, it is important to dry the cheese and remove any mould with a brine or vinegar solution. The wax is then melted and applied to the cheese in multiple coats, either by brushing or dipping. Waxing requires careful temperature control to avoid fire hazards and ensure the desired results.
Creating the right environment for ripening is crucial. Traditionally, cheese is ripened in caves, which provide stable temperature and humidity conditions. However, alternative environments can be created using materials like straw and olive branches, inspired by Italian affinatori techniques. The ripening environment should have adequate airflow, ventilation, and spacing to prevent excessive moisture loss and the growth of undesirable moulds. Regular surveillance and maintenance of the ripening environment are essential to ensure the success of the final cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
The ideal temperature for aging cheese is around 10-12 degrees Celsius (50 Fahrenheit).
The usual environment for aging cheese is a "cave", which provides stable parameters of required temperature and humidity. If you don't have access to a cave, a cellar or fridge are good alternatives.
To prevent mold growth, dry the cheese under loose cheesecloth for 2-7 days, remove any mold with a brine or vinegar wash, and let it air dry for 1-2 hours until tack-free. Waxing is also an effective way to control moisture loss and prevent unwanted mold growth.
