Kamil Perry
While cheese is a common food item in many parts of the world, it is not typically consumed in China. There are several reasons for this, including cultural and historical factors, as well as the high prevalence of lactose intolerance among the Chinese population. Traditionally, dairy products were associated with nomadic people living on the fringes of China, and the Han Chinese avoided consuming dairy altogether due to lactose intolerance. Today, China is the world's biggest importer of dairy products, yet cheese remains uncommon in Chinese cuisine. This may be due to the rapid increase in Western culinary influences, which have introduced cheese to China, but it is still considered a foreign novelty rather than a staple food item.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Annual per capita consumption of cheese | 0.1 kg |
| Annual per capita consumption of dairy products | 36 kg |
| Percentage of Chinese cheese eaters | 17% |
| Annual market growth of cheese sales | $4bn |
| Annual market growth rate of cheese sales | 13% |
| Percentage of China's total dairy consumption by Fonterra | 11% |
| Percentage of Fonterra's output shipped to China | 26% |
| Chinese dietary guidelines for dairy consumption by adults | 300 grams per day |
| Regions in China where cheese is an integral part of the diet | Yunnan, Inner Mongolia, Tibetan Autonomous Region |
| Types of cheese in Yunnan | Ru shan, Ru bing |
| Chinese dishes that include cheese | nai doufu |
| Reason for the lack of cheese in Chinese food | Custom, reputation, lactose intolerance, treatment of cows, availability of soy |
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What You'll Learn
- Chinese dietary guidelines recommend 300 grams of dairy per day, but cheese is still considered exotic
- Lactose intolerance is common in China, making dairy products difficult to digest
- Cows were traditionally work animals, so milk and cheese were not made
- Chinese people enjoy strong-smelling foods like stinking beancurd, but cheese is seen as beyond the pale
- Western culinary influences have made cheese more popular, but it's still a novelty
Chinese dietary guidelines recommend 300 grams of dairy per day, but cheese is still considered exotic
It may seem unusual that cheese is considered exotic in China, given that Chinese dietary guidelines recommend a daily intake of 300 grams of dairy for adults. However, this recommendation is relatively recent, and cheese has only recently become popular in China as a Western import. For a long time, cheese was not a part of the regular diet in much of China, and dairy products were uncommon. This is changing, with China now being the world's biggest importer of dairy products, and cheese sales are expected to grow.
Historically, cheese was made and consumed in certain regions of China, particularly in the north and west of the country, where various ethnic minority groups have made cheese for centuries. For example, in Inner Mongolia, cheese was once a part of everyday food preparation for many families and communities. However, with modernisation and urbanisation, traditional cheesemaking practices have declined, and cheese is now often made in small factories.
In other regions, such as Yunnan, distinct types of cheese like ru shan and ru bing are found. These cheeses can be grilled, deep-fried, or steamed and are an integral part of the local diet. Nevertheless, for much of the country, cheese remains an exotic food.
The push for increased dairy consumption in China is driven by the belief that dairy promotes faster growth and taller heights in children, which the government considers beneficial. This has led to a significant increase in dairy consumption, with annual per capita consumption reaching 36 kg, compared to 6 kg two decades ago. However, this trend may have negative health and environmental implications, as Asian populations tend to be lactose intolerant, and the dairy industry has a significant environmental footprint.
While Chinese dietary guidelines recommend a substantial daily intake of dairy, cheese is still considered exotic by many in the country due to its recent introduction and the traditional lack of cheese in large parts of China. However, with increasing dairy consumption and interest in Western foods, the perception of cheese as exotic may gradually change.
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Lactose intolerance is common in China, making dairy products difficult to digest
Cheese is not a common part of traditional Chinese cuisine. While there is some evidence of cheese consumption in China as early as the 6th century, it has not been a staple food. This is partly due to the traditional view of dairy products as exotic Western foods. Additionally, the treatment of cows in China has played a role in the lack of dairy consumption. Cows were traditionally used as work animals, and villages often had limited animal resources, making it impractical to use cows for milk or cheese production.
However, it is important to note that China has a diverse population with various ethnic groups, and some of these groups have a history of consuming cheese. For example, in Inner Mongolia, cheese has been a part of the daily food preparation for centuries, although modernization has led to a shift towards factory-made cheese. Other regions with cheese-consuming populations include Yunnan, where the Bai people consume "ru shan", and the Yi minority group, who make "ru bing" from goat milk.
Despite the traditional lack of cheese consumption in China, there has been a recent increase in interest in dairy products, including cheese. The annual per capita consumption of dairy products has risen to 36 kg, a significant increase from the 6 kg recorded two decades ago. This shift can be attributed to Western influences and the encouragement of dairy consumption by Chinese dietary guidelines. The growing demand for dairy in China has made it the world's biggest importer of dairy products, with a rapidly growing market for cheese.
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Cows were traditionally work animals, so milk and cheese were not made
While cheese is not a traditional part of Chinese cuisine, there is a growing demand for dairy in China, with the country now being the world's biggest importer of dairy products. This shift can be attributed to various factors, including Western influences, government recommendations, and marketing by foreign dairy companies.
Historically, dairy products were associated with nomadic people living on China's fringes, and the Han Chinese avoided consuming dairy due to lactose intolerance and limited access to animal resources. Cows were traditionally considered work animals, and villages often had a small number of cows, which were essential for farming. Therefore, milk and cheese production were not common practices.
In recent times, influenced by Western lifestyles, some Chinese parents have started giving milk to their children, contributing to soaring global milk prices. However, cheese is still considered exotic, and most people in China do not regularly consume it. This sentiment is reflected in an article from 2011, where the author visits a famous restaurant in Shaoxing and notes that none of the chefs or waiting staff had ever tasted cheese.
While cheese is not a staple in Chinese cuisine, it is important to note that certain regions, particularly in the north and west, have a long history of cheese-making. For example, in Inner Mongolia, cheese has been a part of daily food preparation, and today, small factories produce cheese based on traditional recipes, such as "nai doufu" or "milk tofu." Additionally, Yunnan province is known for its unique cheeses, such as "ru shan" and "ru bing," made from goat milk.
Despite the low consumption of cheese in China, the market value of cheese in the country is significant, estimated at US$12 billion in 2019. Cheese sales are expected to continue growing, driven by a younger, more mobile generation with an interest in Western foods. However, it is worth noting that the promotion of dairy consumption in China has raised concerns about the potential health and environmental implications.
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Chinese people enjoy strong-smelling foods like stinking beancurd, but cheese is seen as beyond the pale
It is a common misconception that cheese is not part of traditional Chinese cuisine. While it is true that cheese is not a favourite food in China, and many Chinese people are lactose intolerant, there is evidence that some form of cheese has been in the Han culture since at least the 6th century. In the past, each family or community in Inner Mongolia would make cheeses from their own milk as part of their everyday food preparation. Today, however, cheese in China is mostly limited to the north and west of the country, where it is an integral part of the diet for many of the country's ethnic minorities.
In recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles, Chinese parents have started to feed milk to their children, and China is now the world's biggest importer of dairy products. There has also been a push to encourage dairy consumption, with Chinese dietary guidelines advising adults to consume 300 grams of dairy per day. As a result, the annual per capita consumption of dairy products in China has reached 36 kg, much higher than the 6 kg recorded two decades ago.
Despite this increasing dairy consumption, cheese is still generally regarded as beyond the pale in China. While a few sophisticated Shanghainese might eat Stilton, many people, especially in the provinces, have never tasted it. This may be because cheese is associated with the nomadic people who lived on the fringes of China and were regarded as fearful barbarians. It may also be because East Asian cuisine has traditionally relied on soy as a source of protein, rather than dairy.
Interestingly, while many Chinese people may turn up their noses at cheese, they adore some stinky foods that would appal many foreigners. Shaoxing, for example, is known for its "stinking and fermented" (chou mei) delicacies, including the famous stinking beancurd. While the flavours of these dishes are strong, they disperse quickly in the mouth, without the creamy clinginess of cheese. So, while Chinese people may enjoy strong-smelling foods like stinking beancurd, cheese is still seen as beyond the pale for cultural and historical reasons.
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Western culinary influences have made cheese more popular, but it's still a novelty
While cheese has never been a part of traditional Chinese cuisine, Western culinary influences have made it more popular in China. However, it is still considered a novelty in the country.
Historically, dairy products were associated with the nomadic people who lived on the fringes of China and were regarded as fearful barbarians. The Han Chinese, with a few exceptions, avoided eating dairy altogether, mainly due to lactose intolerance. According to Wilson Tang, the owner of the NYC dim sum house Nom Wah, another reason for the lack of dairy in China is the traditional use of cows as work animals. Villages had limited animal resources, so they couldn't spare cows for milk or cheese production.
Cheese is still not a favourite food in China, and many people, especially in the provinces, have never tasted it. However, influenced by Western lifestyles, Chinese parents have started feeding milk to their children, contributing to soaring worldwide milk prices. China is now the world's biggest importer of dairy products, with a younger generation eager for cheeses from overseas. Cheese sales in China are expected to grow by US$4 billion over a year, according to Mintel.
While cheese remains a novelty, some regions in China have a history of cheese-making and consumption. Inner Mongolia, for example, has a tradition of making cheese from their own milk as part of their daily food preparation. Yunnan, a diverse province bordering Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, and the Tibetan Autonomous Region, is home to cheeses like ru shan and ru bing.
Despite the growing popularity of cheese in China, it is still not a significant part of local tastes and culture. The annual per capita consumption of cheese in China is only 0.1 kilogram, far below the consumption rates in other Asian countries and the West.
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Frequently asked questions
It is not necessarily that the Chinese are scared of cheese, but rather that cheese is not a common part of traditional Chinese cuisine. Dairy products were historically associated with nomadic people living on the fringes of China, and many Chinese people are lactose intolerant, making dairy difficult to digest.
No, while cheese is not a staple food in China, there are some regions in China, particularly in the north and west, where cheese is an integral part of the diet. For example, in Inner Mongolia, cheese has been made from milk as part of everyday food preparation.
In addition to the lactose intolerance that many Chinese people experience, cheese may be considered a foreign novelty due to its recent introduction to Chinese culture through Western influences.
While cheese is not widely consumed in China, other dairy products such as milk and yogurt have gained popularity in recent years, influenced by Western lifestyles.
Yes, there is a growing interest in cheese among younger, more mobile generations in China. The country is now the world's biggest importer of dairy products, and cheese sales are expected to continue rising annually.
