Kamil Perry
Ash has been used in cheesemaking for centuries, for both aesthetic and practical reasons. It is used to protect the curds, help with rind formation, support the ripening process, and provide an attractive visual contrast to white mould or pale yellow paste. Ash is also used to lower the acidity of the cheese surface, creating the ideal conditions for microbial communities to grow and form the cheese's rind. In addition, ash absorbs water, hastening the drying process and preserving the integrity of the rind.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Visual appeal | Ash creates a great contrast in a cheese, especially a pale white goat's cheese, either on the rind or as a vein running through the middle. |
| Protection | Ash helps protect the cheese from insects, microbes, and mould spores. |
| Rind formation | Ash helps with rind formation by lowering the acidity of the cheese surface, creating ideal conditions for microbial communities to grow and form the cheese's bloomy rind. |
| Drying | Ash absorbs water and hastens the drying process, preserving the integrity of the rind. |
| Preservation | Ash contributes to mould growth on the surface of soft cheeses, preserving unique flavours during the maturation period. |
| Ripening | Ash is alkaline and neutralises acidity, aiding in the ripening process and allowing the cheese to reach its optimal flavour and texture. |
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What You'll Learn
- Ash is used to protect the curds of cheese from insects and microbes
- It helps with rind formation and preservation
- Ash is used to de-acidify the rind, creating a neutral environment for moulds and yeasts to grow
- It is used for aesthetic reasons, to create a visual contrast
- Ash is odourless and tasteless and is made from burning plant matter
Ash is used to protect the curds of cheese from insects and microbes
Ash is used in cheese-making for both aesthetic and practical reasons. Ash is the result of burning plant matter such as wood, leaves, and vegetables at an extremely high temperature. The use of ash in cheese-making is as much about tradition as it is about the science of cheesemaking. Ash has long been a part of cheesemaking, from traditional French recipes to contemporary American originals.
In earlier times, cheesemakers used ash to protect the curds of cheese from insects and microbes. The ash was readily available from burnings, and it helped to preserve the cheese by discouraging insects and microbes from infesting it. Folklore has it that cheesemakers would use the morning's milk to make a small disc of curds, which they would then cover in ash. This layer of ash was believed to keep insects away from the cheese until the afternoon milking, when a second disc of curds would be made and placed above the line of ash in the cheese moulds.
The use of ash in cheese-making has evolved over time. While it was once used primarily for preservation, today it serves multiple purposes. Ash is alkaline, which helps to neutralise the acidity of the cheese surface, creating optimal conditions for the growth of microbial communities that form the cheese's bloomy rind. This process is known as ash-ripening and is commonly associated with goat's milk cheeses from the Loire Valley, such as Valençay, Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine, and Selles-sur-Cher.
In addition to its functional role, ash also enhances the appearance of cheese. It creates a striking visual contrast, especially in pale goat's cheeses, and can be used to cover up any potential defects on the rind, making it an old-fashioned yet effective marketing trick.
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It helps with rind formation and preservation
Ash is used in cheese-making for both aesthetic and practical reasons. It is as much about tradition as it is about the science of cheesemaking. Ash has been used in cheese-making for centuries, and it has several benefits, including aiding in rind formation and preservation.
Cheese with ash added to its surface speeds up the rind growth and helps preserve its unique flavours during the maturation period. Ash is alkaline, which neutralises the acidity of the cheese surface, creating the ideal conditions for microbial communities to grow and form the cheese's rind. Ash also absorbs water, hastening the drying process and helping to preserve the integrity of the rind.
The use of ash in cheese-making dates back to the early days of cheese-making, when preserving the fresh cheese surface was a major concern. Cheesemakers discovered that coating the surface with fine grey ash helped preserve the cheese by deterring insects, microbes, and mould spores. The ash also helped to dry off the surface, further aiding in preservation.
Today, the ash used in cheese-making is typically "food grade ash" or "vegetable ash/charcoal", also known as "activated charcoal". This ash is made by heating a combustible natural product, such as coconut husks, bamboo, grapevines, or food-safe wood, to a very high temperature without oxygen so that it does not burn, and then grinding it into a fine powder.
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Ash is used to de-acidify the rind, creating a neutral environment for moulds and yeasts to grow
Ash is used in cheese-making for both aesthetic and practical reasons. It is as much about tradition as it is about the science of cheesemaking. A line of dark ash running down the middle of a cheese is visually striking. For example, the famous French Morbier cheese features a thin, wavy layer of black ash running through the heart of the cheese. This is purely for aesthetic reasons and is a nod to tradition. In the past, cheesemakers would use the morning's milk to make a small disc of curds, which they would then cover in ash to protect it from flies until the afternoon milking. Today, Morbier is made in one batch, but ash is still added in the middle because it has become synonymous with the cheese.
However, ash is also used for practical reasons. Ash is alkaline, so it helps to de-acidify the rind of the cheese, creating a more neutral environment. This aids the growth of moulds and yeasts, which in turn helps the cheese mature and develop more complex flavours. Goats' cheeses, in particular, are often quite acidic, so adding ash to the rind provides a favourable environment for the moulds and yeasts to grow. Ash also helps to dry the rind and can cover up any potential defects on the rind, such as mould or spots, which may be off-putting to consumers.
Ash is made by burning plant matter such as wood, leaves, or vegetables at an extremely high temperature. The ash used in cheesemaking today is "food grade ash" or "vegetable ash", which is also known as "activated charcoal". This is made by heating a combustible natural product, such as coconut husks, bamboo, grapevines, or food-safe wood, to a very high temperature without oxygen so that it does not burn, and then grinding it into a powder.
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It is used for aesthetic reasons, to create a visual contrast
Ash is used in cheesemaking for both aesthetic and practical reasons. It is as much about tradition as it is about the science of cheesemaking. Ash has been used in cheesemaking for centuries, from traditional French recipes to contemporary American originals.
A line of dark ash running down the middle of a cheese is visually stunning. French goat cheeses that are pure white in the middle with a dark ash rind, such as Valençay, Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine, and Selles-sur-Cher, use ash partly for a visual statement, too. Ash creates a great contrast in a cheese, especially a pale white goat's cheese, either on the rind or as a vein running through the middle. On the outside of the cheese, it will often change colour from jet black to a blue-grey as the cheese ages and the rind forms. It also covers up any potential defects on the rind, such as black mould and blue/green spots, which often appear on some natural-rinded goat's cheeses. People often don't like the look of the mould or spots, especially on a white- or cream-coloured cheese, even though they are perfectly edible.
In the United States, one of the most popular ash-rinded cheeses is Humboldt Fog, a California take on the classic French practice. Bonne Bouche, produced by Vermont Creamery, is another great example of an ash-rinded cheese.
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Ash is odourless and tasteless and is made from burning plant matter
Cheese with ash includes Humboldt Fog from California, Morbier from France, French goat cheeses such as Valencay, Selles-sur-Cher, and Sainte-Maure de Touraine, and Sottocenere al Tartufo from Italy. Ash is alkaline and helps to neutralise the acidity of the cheese surface, creating the ideal conditions for microbial communities to grow and form the cheese's rind. Ash also absorbs water, hastening the drying process and helping to preserve the integrity of the rind.
In the past, ash was used to protect the inside of cheeses from flies and other insects. For example, cheesemakers would pour leftover curds into a mould and cover them with a thin layer of ash to protect them from flies until the cows could be milked again. Today, ash is still added to Morbier as it has become synonymous with the cheese. Ash also helps to cover up any imperfections in the rind, such as mould or spots, which may be unappealing to consumers.
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Frequently asked questions
Ash is used in cheese for both aesthetic and practical reasons. It has long been a part of cheesemaking, from traditional French recipes to contemporary American originals.
Ash is alkaline, so it neutralises acidity and aids in the ripening process. It also helps with rind formation and protects the cheese from insects.
Ash in cheese can be a thin layer on the rind or a vein running through the middle. It is usually black, blue, or grey in colour.
Many different types of cheese contain ash, including Morbier, Humboldt Fog, Sainte-Maure, Valençay, and Sottocenere.
Yes, ash in cheese is safe to eat. It is typically made from food-grade vegetable ash or "activated charcoal", which is odourless and tasteless.
