Bushra Griffith
Parmigiano Reggiano, or Parmesan, is a hard, granular cheese produced from cow's milk and aged for at least 12 months. It is named after the areas that produce it, the Italian provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia. The cheese was first produced in the Duchy of Parma by Cistercian and Benedictine monks over 900 years ago. Today, the most common breed of cow used for making Parmigiano cheese is the Holstein Friesian cow, which was imported from Holland in the 19th century. However, there are concerns about the treatment of cows used for cheese production, with some sources suggesting that the focus on output rather than quality may negatively impact the health of the animals. In this paragraph, we will explore the topic of cow mistreatment in the Italian region where Parmigiano Reggiano is produced.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Animal welfare | Cows are kept permanently indoors and are sometimes emaciated and lame |
| Location | Farms in Po Valley, northern Italy |
| Number of cows | 500,000 |
| Business sales | 5 billion euros |
| Breed | Bruna Italiana brown cow, Bianca Modenese white cow, Reggiana, Friesian |
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What You'll Learn
Cows kept permanently indoors
In 2017, an animal welfare group, Compassion in World Farming (CIWF), released footage exposing the conditions of cows in Italy's Po valley, where Parmigiano Reggiano is produced. The footage showed exhausted cows kept permanently indoors, wallowing in their own excrement. The group accused Italian cheesemakers of cruelty, stating that Parmesan and Grana Padano cheeses are marketed as "high quality," while the reality for the cows is quite the opposite.
Parmigiano Reggiano, often referred to as "the king of cheeses," is a protected designation of origin (PDO) product in the European Union. This means that only cheese produced in specific provinces in northern Italy, such as Bologna, Reggio Emilia, Mantua, Modena, and Parma, can be labeled as Parmigiano-Reggiano. The name Parmesan, on the other hand, can be legally used for imitations outside the EU.
The cows used for Parmigiano Reggiano production have a long history in Italy. The traditional breed dates back to the year 1000 and is believed to have originated in Pannonia, which is present-day Hungary. These cows were valued for their milk, which has high casein and fat content, making it ideal for cheese-making. Over time, different breeds were introduced to improve profitability and milk output, such as the Bruna Italiana brown cow and the Bianca Modenese white cow.
Today, the most common breed among Parmigiano Reggiano producers is the Friesian cow, imported from Holland in the 19th century. These cows are known for their high milk productivity and are well-suited to the region's farming needs. However, the CIWF's footage raises concerns about the conditions in which these cows are kept, sparking a campaign for better welfare guidelines for dairy suppliers.
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Exhausted cows wallowing in their own excrement
In 2017, animal welfare group Compassion in World Farming (CIWF) released footage from nine farms in Italy’s Po valley, exposing the mistreatment of cows in the production of Parmesan and Grana Padano cheeses. The footage revealed exhausted cows wallowing in their own excrement. The charity launched the #notonmypasta campaign, urging producers to implement welfare guidelines for their milk suppliers.
Parmesan, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is a hard, dry cheese made from cow's milk. It has a rich, sharp flavor and a straw-colored interior. The name Parmigiano-Reggiano is protected under Italian and European law, ensuring that only cheese produced in specific provinces of Italy can be labeled as such. The production of Parmigiano-Reggiano is deeply rooted in the region's history, with Cistercian and Benedictine monasteries in the granges and plains between Parma and Reggio Emilia favoring the area for cow milk production.
The cows traditionally used to make Parmigiano-Reggiano were valued for their milk output and their suitability for work in the fields. Over time, farming techniques evolved, and new breeds were introduced to improve profitability. By the 17th century, Professor Bizzozzero created the Bruna Italiana brown cow breed by crossbreeding local cattle with bulls of the Brown Swiss breed. This breed became widespread in Italy and the Parmigiano Reggiano area due to its high milk production.
However, the recent footage from CIWF suggests that the welfare of these cows is being compromised. The group alleges that cows are kept permanently indoors and are emaciated, with some even lame. This contradicts the marketing of Parmesan and Grana Padano cheeses as "high-quality" products. The campaign aims to raise awareness and encourage consumers to push for better treatment of the cows that produce the milk used in their beloved cheeses.
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Emaciated cows
In 2017, an animal welfare group, Compassion in World Farming (CIWF), released footage exposing the "shocking" conditions of cows in Italy's Po valley, where Parmigiano Reggiano cheese is produced. The footage showed exhausted cows wallowing in their own excrement, and the group accused cheesemakers of using milk from emaciated and sometimes lame cows kept permanently indoors.
Parmigiano Reggiano, often referred to as Parmesan, is a protected designation of origin (PDO) cheese that can only be produced in a limited area in northern Italy, including the provinces of Bologna, Reggio Emilia, Mantua, Modena, and Parma. The name Parmigiano Reggiano refers exclusively to this PDO cheese, and special seals identify the product as authentic, with various codes and stamps indicating the dairy, production month and year, and aging length.
The cows traditionally used to make Parmigiano Reggiano were the Reggiana and Bianca Modenese breeds, which were valued for their milk output and suitability for work in the fields. However, by the 17th century, the Bruna Italiana brown cow breed was created through crossbreeding to improve farming techniques and profitability. This breed became widely used in Parmigiano production due to its high milk output and milk composition ideal for cheese-making, with high casein and fat content.
The CIWF campaign, #notonmypasta, aims to push producers of Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano cheeses to introduce welfare guidelines for their milk suppliers, who manage an estimated 500,000 dairy cattle for a business worth around five billion euros annually. The group argues that the reality of the cows' treatment contradicts the "high-quality" marketing of these cheeses.
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High welfare standards for cows
In Italy, where Parmigiano Reggiano is produced, there are laws in place to preserve the integrity of traditional food products, including Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) regulations, which aim to ensure the flavour and quality of Italian foods. Additionally, within the European Union, Parmigiano Reggiano is a protected designation of origin (PDO), meaning that legally, the name refers exclusively to the Parmigiano Reggiano PDO cheese manufactured in a limited area in northern Italy. This area includes Bologna, Reggio Emilia, Mantua, Modena, and Parma, from which the cheese gets its name.
The history of Parmigiano Reggiano production demonstrates a long-standing commitment to high welfare standards for cows. Cistercian and Benedictine monasteries in the granges and plains between Parma and Reggio Emilia kept cows for milk production, and by the 17th century, Professor Bizzozzero had created the Bruna Italiana brown cow breed, which was particularly well-suited to milk production. This breed is now the most widespread milk-producing breed in Italy and is known for its high productivity.
Ensuring high welfare standards for cows is crucial for both the well-being of the animals and the integrity of dairy products, such as Parmigiano Reggiano, that rely on the unique qualities of milk from cows raised in high-welfare environments.
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Milk suppliers' management of cattle
Parmigiano Reggiano, often referred to as Parmesan, is a protected designation of origin (PDO) cheese that can only be produced in specific areas of northern Italy, including Bologna, Reggio Emilia, Mantua, Modena, and Parma. The cows that produce the milk for this cheese have traditionally been the Bruna Italiana brown cow breed, which was introduced in the 17th century to improve farming techniques and profitability. This breed is known for its high milk output and the milk's suitability for cheese-making due to its high casein and fat content.
However, concerns have been raised about the welfare of these cows. Milk suppliers should ensure that their cattle are well-cared for and humanely treated. This includes providing adequate nutrition to prevent emaciation, access to grazing pastures, and proper living conditions that do not involve wallowing in excrement. Suppliers should also consider the historical context of the cows, such as the triple-purpose breed that provided milk, meat, and labour in the fields, dating back to the year 1000.
To improve the management of cattle by milk suppliers, regular veterinary check-ups and health assessments should be implemented. Additionally, suppliers should adhere to any guidelines or regulations set forth by animal welfare organizations and the Italian government. This includes ensuring that the cows have sufficient space to move around and are not kept permanently indoors. Proper waste management systems should also be in place to maintain hygienic living conditions.
Overall, milk suppliers play a crucial role in ensuring the humane treatment and proper management of cattle used in the production of Parmigiano Reggiano. By prioritizing the well-being of their cows, suppliers can contribute to ethical and sustainable dairy farming practices while maintaining the high quality and integrity of this traditional Italian cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
Parmesan (Italian: Parmigiano Reggiano) is a hard, granular cheese produced from cow's milk and aged at least 12 months.
Parmesan cheese is made in northern Italy in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Mantua, Modena, and Bologna.
In 2017, an animal welfare group, Compassion in World Farming (CIWF), released footage exposing the "shocking" conditions endured by exhausted cows on nine farms in Italy's Po valley, where Parmesan cheese is made. The cows were kept permanently indoors, wallowing in their own excrement, and were described as "extremely underweight and overworked."
Following the release of the CIWF footage, the group launched the #notonmypasta campaign to push producers of Parmesan cheese to introduce welfare guidelines for their milk suppliers.
