Bushra Griffith
French cheese is a milk-based food that is produced in a wide range of flavours, textures and forms. There are between 1,500 and 1,800 varieties of French cheese, with some estimates ranging from 1,000 to 1,600. French cheese is broadly grouped into eight categories, 'les huit familles de fromage', and is typically made from cow's milk, goat's milk or sheep's milk. The first step in making French cheese is coagulating the milk, which turns it into a homogeneous and smooth gel. The gel is then mixed with rennet and lactic acid bacteria to form a curd, which is placed into moulds. The curd is then salted and dusted with penicillium, which creates an external white mould. The cheese is then stored in a curing room for 10 to 14 days, after which it is dried and wrapped.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| History | Cheese-making is an age-old craft in France, with some monasteries continuing to make cheese even after the fall of the Roman Empire. |
| The first cheese cooperative in France was founded in the 13th century by women, and the country has since become renowned for its cheese-making expertise. | |
| Milk Types | Cow, goat, and sheep milk are all used in French cheese-making, with each type contributing its own spectrum of flavors. |
| Terroir | The unique combination of soil, climate, and geographic location imparts distinct characteristics to each cheese, reflecting its sense of place and cultural heritage. |
| Techniques | French cheesemakers combine traditional methods with modern advancements to create variations like bloomy rind, washed rind, blue, and pressed cheeses. |
| Aging | The aging or affinage process is crucial for developing complex flavors in French cheeses. This is carefully controlled in terms of temperature, humidity, and ventilation. |
| Labels and Designations | Traditional regional cheeses may have an "appellation d'origine protégée" (AOP) label, indicating protected and authentic production methods. |
| Other labels include the EU's Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and France's "appellation contrôlée." | |
| Diversity | France boasts an extensive range of cheese varieties, with estimates ranging from 246 to 1,600 distinct types. |
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What You'll Learn
Milk standardisation
In France, cheese is traditionally made from three types of milk: cow's milk, goat's milk, and sheep milk (ewe's milk). Each type of milk lends a unique flavour profile to the cheese. For instance, Munster, a bold and aromatic cheese from the Alsace and Lorraine regions, is crafted from cow's milk and boasts a strong, penetrating aroma and a soft, creamy texture.
The choice of milk is influenced by the terroir, encompassing the unique combination of soil, climate, and geographic location. The milk from animals grazing in specific regions imparts distinct characteristics to the cheese, reflecting the terroir of its origin. For example, Salers and Laguiole cheeses, made from the milk of cows grazing at high altitudes in the Cantal region, tend to be more expensive and are generally aged longer.
To create specific cheese varieties, cheesemakers may also blend milk from different animals. This blending technique contributes to the diverse flavours and textures found in French cheeses.
In addition to the type of milk, the milk composition plays a crucial role in standardisation. Cheesemakers adjust factors such as fat and protein content to meet the requirements of the desired cheese variety. This precision ensures that each batch of cheese adheres to specific standards and develops the intended characteristics during the ageing process.
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Coagulation
Acid coagulation, on the other hand, neutralizes the negative charge surrounding the casein micelles, allowing them to bump into each other and stick. Examples of acid-coagulated cheeses include cottage cheese, quark, and chèvre. Acid-set cheeses tend to be softer as the acid dissolves the calcium "glue" from the casein micelles.
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in exploring alternative clotting enzymes, such as vegetable clotting enzymes, due to the reduced availability and increasing prices of calf rennet. However, vegetable enzymes are still partially suitable for cheesemaking as they can contribute to a bitter flavor.
In the context of French cheese-making, the Époisses variety involves heating whole milk to around 30 °C (86 °F) with the coagulation lasting for at least 16 hours. The fragile curds are then drained in moulds, and the whey is allowed to run off.
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Separation
French cheese-making is a refined art form that requires precise knowledge and skills. The process of making French cheese involves several steps, one of which is separation.
One common method is to add rennet, a complex mixture of enzymes produced in the stomachs of ruminant animals. Rennet contains chymosin, an enzyme that coagulates milk, causing it to separate into curds and whey. The rennet is carefully added to the milk and then gently stirred to ensure even distribution. This mixture is then left to sit for a period, allowing the rennet to work and the curds to form.
Another method of separation is acid coagulation, where an acidic substance like lemon juice or vinegar is added to the milk. This lowers the pH of the milk and causes it to curdle and separate. This technique is often used for softer cheeses. The cheesemaker must carefully monitor the process, as the acid can affect the final flavour of the cheese.
In some cases, a combination of rennet and acid coagulation may be used, particularly for more complex cheeses. The specific techniques and timing of these processes contribute to the unique characteristics of each French cheese variety.
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Salting
There are three main ways to salt cheese: dry salting, brining, and dry surface rubbing. Dry salting involves the direct addition of salt crystals to the surface of fresh curd. This method is used for cheese varieties like Cheddar, Colby, and Monterey Jack. For dry salting, the dry salt can be applied manually on the curd by an operator who allows the agitation of the curd table to uniformly mix the salt into the curd. Larger cheese plants with enclosed finished vats or salting belts can use filtered, dehumidified air to pneumatically convey the salt to the salting vat or belt.
Brining involves the immersion of cheese in a brine solution for a specific period of time. The salt concentration in the brine must be regularly monitored and replenished as the cheese releases water into the brine, reducing the brine's salt concentration. An 18% brine solution is commonly used for brining cheese, although the salt content can be higher. The brine solution can be reused many times, but it is important to top it up with at least 2 tablespoons of salt after removing the cheese to replace the salt absorbed. It is also important to store the brine at 13°C/55°F to reduce any mould growth.
Dry surface rubbing is used for Swiss, Baby Swiss, some blue and Brie cheeses, and Limburger. This method involves rubbing dry salt onto the surface of the blocks and wheels of already formed cheese to salt the cheese and form a rind.
The salting process must be carefully controlled to ensure the cheese has the right flavour and texture. Too little salt will result in a flat flavour, too much acid, and a short shelf life. Conversely, too much salt will lead to a salty flavour, poor acid, and moisture issues.
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Maturation
The maturation process involves the careful control of temperature, humidity, and aeration. The cheese is placed in cold rooms or ripening caves, where the conditions are highly controlled to create the optimal environment for the cheese to mature. The temperature and humidity levels are adjusted to create the ideal conditions for the survival and activity of the microorganisms that are vital to the process of turning curd into cheese.
During maturation, moisture must be removed from the cheese. This is done by ensuring that the air in the maturing chamber is not too humid. The air in the chamber is frequently exchanged with warmer, drier air from outside to help facilitate this process. The measurement of relative humidity in the maturing chambers is a challenging task due to the high humidity levels during the cheese ripening process.
The maturation process can also involve the introduction of specific moulds or bacteria to the surface of the cheese to promote maturation and develop flavour. For example, mould is introduced to semi-soft cheeses like gorgonzola during maturation. Blue cheeses like Roquefort and Danish blue are produced using specific types of bacteria and are punctured to promote aeration and the growth of the bacteria that produce the typical blue lines. Hard "holey" cheeses like Gruyere and Emmental are moved to a different ripening room during maturation, where they are rapidly cooled to trigger a reaction with the bacteria and enzymes, creating the signature holes.
The maturation time varies depending on the type of cheese and the desired strength of flavour. Harder cheeses, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano, are drained early in the maturation process to remove excess liquid and are left to mature for a long time to achieve a hard, crumbly texture and a sharper taste. In contrast, softer cheeses like Camembert ripen from the outside in, so the creaminess of their centre indicates the maturation time.
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Frequently asked questions
French cheeses can be divided into three main families: pressed cheeses, soft cheeses, and blue cheeses. There are between 1,500 and 1,800 varieties of French cheese, including famous varieties like Camembert, Brie, and Roquefort. French cheeses are also classified according to their farm, artisanal, or industrial character.
French cheeses are traditionally made from three types of milk: cow's milk, goat's milk, and sheep's milk. To make cheese, milk is first coagulated and turned into a homogeneous and smooth gel.
The first step in making French cheese is mixed curdling, which involves combining rennet with raw milk and adding lactic acid bacteria. The curd is then gently placed into moulds, drained, and salted. The cheeses are then dusted with penicillium, which creates an external white mould called "the flower". The cheeses are stored in a warm and ventilated curing room for 10 to 14 days before being dried and wrapped.
