
Cheddar cheese is produced through a series of steps that transform milk into the widely consumed cheese we know today. The process involves coagulating milk to form curds, which are then cut, stacked, and turned to drain excess whey and form a fibrous texture. The curds are then salted and pressed into moulds, after which the cheese is wrapped and matured for several months to develop its flavour and texture. The length of maturation influences the strength of the cheese's flavour, with older cheddars boasting a stronger taste.
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What You'll Learn

Milk coagulation
There are different types of rennet used in cheese-making, each with its own sources and properties. The most common type is calf rennet, which contains the key enzymes chymosin and bovine pepsin. In the 1960s, when calf rennet became scarce, scientists developed a synthetic version of chymosin by fermenting certain bacteria or fungi, known as microbial rennet. This type of rennet, however, is not suitable for all cheese varieties. Another option is vegetable rennet, which uses extracts from plants such as nettles to produce a similar coagulating effect.
The amount of rennet added during the coagulation process can vary depending on the specific cheese recipe and the desired outcome. Typically, about 85 to 115 grams of rennet is added per 450 kilograms of milk mixture. It is essential to thoroughly mix the vat's contents after adding the rennet to ensure even distribution. Diluting the rennet with pure water, free from impurities and a neutral pH, also aids in its spread.
Once the rennet has been added and mixed, the milk is left to set. The setting time can vary but typically ranges from 10 to 15 minutes. To determine if the curd is ready for the next step, the "curd test" is performed. This involves inserting a flat blade at a 45-degree angle into the curd and slowly raising it. If the curd breaks cleanly, leaving a glassy fracture, it indicates that the curd has set properly and is ready for cutting.
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Curd cutting
After the curd has been cut into cubes, it is cooked by adding hot water to the jacket of the vat, up to 39°C or 102°F. The curd is constantly stirred during this step to prevent uneven cooking, and the process takes 20 to 60 minutes. The whey, a byproduct of the curdling process, is then removed by allowing it to drain out of the vat. The curds are raked to the sides, creating two piles with a channel for the whey to drain down the middle.
The next stage is cheddaring, a critical step that gives cheddar its distinctive taste and texture. This involves cutting, turning, and stacking the blocks of curd, allowing them to cool and drain further. The curds are also piled to facilitate the removal of excess whey, a labour-intensive process. During cheddaring, the cheesemaker closely monitors the acidity and temperature of the curd, as these factors influence the final product's characteristics.
Finally, the curd undergoes milling, where it is cut into small chips before being salted. This process prepares the curd for pressing and moulding, which are the subsequent steps in cheddar cheese production. The cutting of the curd at various stages, including the initial coagulum cutting and the later milling, is a precise and delicate task that requires minimising handling time and ensuring clean cuts to prevent fat and protein loss, which could impact the final product's quality.
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Salt and press
Salting and pressing the curd are the final steps in the production of cheddar cheese. The curd is first milled into small chips or cut into cubes, which are then salted. This salting process is done by hand in the case of traditional cheesemaking. The salted curd is then pressed into hoops, with a pressure of 170 kPa applied for several hours. This process leads to the proper matting of the curd, which ultimately forms a ripened cheese product.
After pressing, the cheeses are dressed in traditional cotton or muslin cloth and transferred to maturing stores. The cheesecloth allows the cheese to breathe and interact with its atmosphere, enabling the development of vital bacteria. The length of the ripening period varies depending on the desired sharpness of the cheddar, from 3 months for mild cheddar to 1 year for sharp cheddar.
The environment in which the cheese is matured also has a significant impact on the final product. For example, the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company matures some of its cheese in the nearby caves within Cheddar Gorge, which provide constant temperature and high humidity, resulting in a more complex flavour.
Overall, the salting and pressing steps are crucial in the production of cheddar cheese, as they initiate the ripening process and contribute to the final texture and taste of the cheese.
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Maturation
During maturation, the cheese is stored in a controlled environment, such as a cave or a maturing store, where temperature and humidity can be monitored and adjusted to create the perfect conditions for ripening. In the case of the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company, they utilise the natural conditions of the Cheddar Caves, which provide a constant temperature and high humidity, ideal for cheese maturation.
The maturation process involves a series of chemical changes that occur within the cheese. The major constituents of cheese, such as lactose, fat, protein, and metabolic products of culture, break down and transform into the typical cheese flavour and texture. This breakdown is influenced by factors such as short peptides, free amino acids, volatile compounds, and fat content.
Cheddar cheese typically has a pH level between 5.2 and 5.4, which is achieved through the cheddaring process, where the curds are cut, turned, and piled to drain excess whey and develop acidity. This process is crucial in achieving the desired flavour and texture of the final cheese product.
The maturation process also allows the cheese to breathe and interact with its atmosphere, enabling the development of vital bacteria. This interaction is facilitated by the use of traditional cheesecloth, which is a historical and vital aspect of cheddar maturation. The cloth allows the cheese to gradually dry and form a rind, enhancing the overall quality and character of the cheese.
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Pasteurisation
There are different methods of pasteurisation, but the basic principle involves heating the milk to a specific temperature for a set period of time to destroy bacteria. One common method is known as High-Temperature Short Time (HTST) pasteurisation, where the milk is heated to a high temperature, typically around 72°C (161°F), for a brief period, often just a few seconds. This method is widely used in the dairy industry as it effectively kills bacteria while preserving the quality and nutritional value of the milk.
In cheddar cheese production, pasteurisation plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety and quality of the final product. By pasteurising the milk, cheesemakers can eliminate harmful bacteria that could potentially contaminate the cheese during the manufacturing process. This helps to reduce the risk of foodborne illnesses and ensures that the cheese meets food safety standards.
However, it's important to note that some traditional cheesemakers choose to use unpasteurised milk for cheddar cheese production. They argue that unpasteurised milk can lead to a more complex flavour profile in the final cheese product. Additionally, they believe that unpasteurised milk cheese may offer potential health benefits, such as boosting the consumer's health and immune system. This is because unpasteurised milk retains probiotic bacteria, nutrients, vitamins, and enzymes that may otherwise be lost during the pasteurisation process.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step in making cheddar cheese is coagulating the milk. This can be done using rennet, which coagulates the milk protein and forms curds. The milk can be unpasteurised or pasteurised, with unpasteurised milk resulting in a more complex flavour.
Cheddaring is a critical stage in the production of cheddar cheese. It involves cutting, turning, and piling the curd, allowing it to cool, and knitting together. This process results in the fibrous texture of the curd and contributes to the final taste and texture of the cheese.
The curd is cut into cubes using stainless steel wire knives. The size of the cubes ranges from 6 to 16 millimetres. The size of the cubes determines the moisture content of the cheese, with smaller cubes resulting in a drier cheese.
The maturation period for cheddar cheese varies depending on the desired flavour. Mild cheddar is typically matured for around three months, while sharp cheddar is matured for up to a year or more. The oldest, "vintage" cheddars can be matured for around two years.

























