Patrick Oconnell
Pecorino is a type of Italian cheese made from sheep's milk. The name derives from the Italian word for sheep, 'pecora'. There are several varieties of pecorino, each with distinct textures and flavours, depending on where in Italy it is produced and how long it is aged for. The most well-known variety is pecorino romano, which originated in Lazio, the region surrounding Rome, but is now mostly produced in Sardinia. The process of making pecorino involves warming sheep's milk, adding rennet to separate the curd, cooking the curds until firm, and then ageing the cheese to develop its flavour.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | Any Italian cheese made entirely from sheep's milk |
| Varieties | Romano, Sardo, Siciliano, Pepato |
| Origin | Lazio, around Rome |
| Current Production | Sardinia, Latium, Tuscany (Province of Grosseto) |
| Texture | Hard, extra-hard |
| Flavour | Salty, sharp, mild, milky, sweet, strong |
| Ageing Time | 40 days to 1 year |
| Serving Suggestions | Grated, sliced, crumbled |
| Ingredients | Sheep milk, rennet, whey, scotta fermento, thermophilic lactic acid bacteria |
| Process | Milk is warmed, rennet is added, curds are cooked, pressed, and pierced, then ripened |
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What You'll Learn
Sheep's milk is the base
The process of making sheep's milk cheese in Italy dates back to ancient times, with the practice of making pecorino and storing it in reed baskets mentioned in Homer's Odyssey, written in 800 B.C. One of the most well-known types of pecorino, pecorino romano, has Roman roots, with evidence suggesting that it was produced in the regions surrounding Rome (Lazio) over 2,000 years ago. It was a staple in the diet of the legionaries of ancient Rome, who were given a daily ration of about 27 grams of this high-energy, easily digestible cheese.
Today, most pecorino romano is produced in Sardinia due to the migration of Lazio's cheesemakers to the island in the 19th century. This move was driven by the availability of ample space for sheep grazing, enabling them to meet the growing demand for their cheese. Another variety of pecorino, pecorino sardo, is also produced in Sardinia but differs from pecorino romano in terms of taste and production requirements. Pecorino sardo is made from the milk of the local breed of sheep, resulting in a richer and less salty flavour profile. Young pecorino sardo is aged for a shorter duration of 40 days, while more mature versions are aged for at least six months, developing sharper flavours with increased ageing time.
The basic production process for pecorino involves warming sheep's milk and adding rennet to separate the curd. The curds are then cooked until firm, with some varieties being only semi-cooked to achieve a softer texture. The milk used for pecorino romano is typically raw or thermized, inoculated with a natural culture called 'scotta fermento', which is produced by acidifying the whey obtained from making ricotta. The milk is coagulated at 37–39 °C using lamb rennet paste, and the curds are cooked at 45–46 °C. After being placed in moulds, the curds are pressed manually and pierced to enhance whey drainage. The ageing process, which can range from three to four months to a year or more, contributes to the development of the cheese's distinct flavour and texture.
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Rennet added to separate curds
Once the sheep's milk has been warmed to 40°C (104° F), rennet is added to separate the curds. Rennet is a crucial ingredient in cheesemaking, as it causes the milk to coagulate and form curds. It is produced in the stomachs of ruminant animals, such as lambs, and contains enzymes that break down milk proteins.
In Pecorino cheese, lamb rennet paste is traditionally used, and the milk is coagulated at a temperature of 37–39 °C. The curds are then cut and cooked at 45–46 °C until they become firm. The cooking temperature and time will depend on the desired texture of the final product, with some Pecorino varieties only being semi-cooked to achieve a softer texture.
After the curds have been cooked, they are removed from the vat and placed in moulds. At this stage, they are still soft and can be pressed manually to increase whey drainage. The curds are then pierced with fingers or a stick to further enhance whey removal.
The curds will then be left to ripen and develop their characteristic flavour. This process typically takes between 8 to 12 months, during which time the cheese is stored at a temperature of 10–14 °C. The longer the cheese is aged, the firmer and crumblier it becomes, and the stronger and saltier its flavour will be.
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Curds cooked until firm
The curds are slowly cooked in a copper cauldron, a traditional method that has been used for centuries. The curds are stirred constantly with a wooden paddle to ensure even cooking and to prevent scorching. The temperature is carefully monitored and controlled, as too high a temperature can damage the curds and affect the final quality of the cheese. The ideal temperature range is between 38–40°C (100-104°F). At this range, the curds are cooked until they are firm and have a rubbery texture. This process can take up to an hour, and the curds are carefully monitored to ensure they do not overcook. The cooking process is a critical step in the cheese-making process as it directly affects the final texture and flavor of the Pecorino. The curds need to be cooked just enough to firm up and knit together, creating a cohesive mass that can be cut and molded. Under-cooking can result in a crumbly texture, while overcooking can make the cheese tough and rubbery.
Once the curds have reached the desired firmness, they are ready for the next step, which is molding and pressing. However, before this, the cheese-maker may choose to add a starter culture to the curds, which will influence the flavor and help with the aging process. The starter culture contains good bacteria that will continue to develop and mature as the cheese ages, giving Pecorino its characteristic sharp and nutty flavor. The type and amount of starter culture added can vary depending on the desired final taste profile. Some cheese-makers may also add mold cultures to the curds at this stage to encourage the growth of specific molds on the surface of the cheese during aging.
The cooked curds are then transferred from the cauldron to a mold, which will give the cheese its final shape. The mold is typically made of plastic or stainless steel and has perforations to allow whey to drain. The curds are packed tightly into the mold and then pressed to remove any remaining whey and to encourage the curds to knit together into a solid mass. This pressing process can last for several hours, and the pressure is gradually increased. After pressing, the cheese is immersed in a brine solution, which adds flavor and helps to preserve the cheese.
Finally, the cheese is left to age for at least four months, although some varieties of Pecorino are aged for much longer, up to two years or more. During this time, the cheese is regularly turned and brushed to encourage even drying and to prevent mold growth. The aging environment, including temperature and humidity, is carefully controlled to facilitate the development of complex flavors and textures. The ideal aging conditions depend on the specific type of Pecorino being produced and the desired final characteristics.
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Flavour develops over 8-12 months
The flavour of Pecorino Romano cheese is developed through a process of ripening that takes place over 8-12 months. This lengthy maturation period is essential to the development of the cheese's characteristic flavour, which is influenced by the use of lamb rennet paste during production. The longer the cheese is left to ripen, the more pronounced and complex its flavour becomes.
Pecorino Romano is a hard, salty Italian cheese made from sheep's milk. The name 'pecorino' means 'ovine' or 'of sheep' in Italian, reflecting its origin. The cheese has a rich history, dating back to ancient Rome, where it was a staple in the diet of legionaries. The cheese's longevity and nutritional value made it well-suited for fuelling the expansion of the Roman Empire.
The process of making Pecorino Romano cheese has been refined over centuries, with the basic production methods described by Latin authors like Marcus Terentius Varro and Pliny the Elder about 2,000 years ago. The cheese is still made according to the original recipe, a testament to its enduring quality.
Today, the manufacture of Pecorino Romano is legally limited to specific regions, including Sardinia, Latium, and Tuscany (Province of Grosseto). The cheese is typically made from raw or thermized milk, which is inoculated with a natural culture called 'scotta fermento'. This culture is produced by acidifying the whey obtained during the manufacture of ricotta. The milk is then coagulated at 37-39°C using lamb rennet paste, and the curds are cooked at 45-46°C. After being placed in moulds and pressed, the cheese is left to ripen for 8-12 months at a controlled temperature of 10-14°C.
The ripening process is a critical step in cheese-making, as it allows the flavours to mature and intensify. The length of this process directly influences the final flavour of the cheese, with longer ripening times resulting in a stronger, more pronounced taste. This gradual development of flavour over 8-12 months is what gives Pecorino Romano its distinctive character and makes it one of Italy's most renowned cheeses.
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Can be aged for up to a year
After the curdling process, the cheese is pressed into moulds and left to dry for a few days. Once dry, the cheese is then placed in a brine solution, which helps to form a crust on the outside of the cheese. This crust will help protect the cheese during the ageing process. The ageing process for Pecorino can last up to a year, and the cheese is regularly brushed and cleaned to prevent mould from forming. During this ageing, the cheese is kept at a specific temperature and humidity level to encourage the development of flavour and texture. Over time, the cheese loses moisture and becomes firmer, its flavour intensifies, and it develops a more granular texture. The length of ageing determines the variety of Pecorino produced. For instance, Pecorino Romano is aged for a minimum of 8 months, whereas Pecorino Toscano is typically aged for 20-40 days. Pecorino Sardo can be aged for up to a year, giving it a sharper flavour and more crumbly texture.
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Frequently asked questions
Pecorino cheese is made from sheep's milk.
The milk is warmed to 40°C (or 37-39°C according to other sources) and whey is added to it. Rennet is then added to separate the curd. Once set, the curds are cooked until firm. The curds are then placed in moulds, pressed manually and pierced with the fingers or a stick to increase whey drainage. The cheese is then left to ripen for 8-12 months at 10-14°C.
Pecorino cheese should be seasoned for at least three to four months. However, some pecorino cheeses are aged for up to a year. The longer the cheese is seasoned, the firmer and crumblier it becomes, and the flavour becomes stronger and saltier.
