Bushra Griffith
Powdered Parmesan cheese, often sold in green cardboard tubes, is a popular product in the United States. However, it is important to note that the term Parmesan is not regulated in the US, and these products may not contain any Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is the only cheese that can be legally called Parmesan in the European Union. In fact, some powdered Parmesan cheese products have been found to contain fillers like wood pulp and cheaper cheeses, such as cheddar, Swiss, and mozzarella, rather than pure Parmigiano-Reggiano. While the addition of wood pulp may be safe for consumption, it is essential for consumers to be aware of the ingredients and the potential for food fraud when purchasing products labeled as Parmesan cheese.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition of Parmesan | In the European Union, Parmesan is defined by law as genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano made according to Italian D.O.C. regulations. In the US, the word "Parmesan" is not regulated. |
| Ingredients | Parmigiano-Reggiano is allowed to contain only milk (produced in the Parma/Reggio region and less than 20 hours from cow to cheese), salt, and rennet (a natural enzyme from calf intestine). |
| Additives | Cellulose powder, potassium sorbate, and cheese cultures are not found in Parmigiano-Reggiano but are present in some "Parmesan" products. |
| Fillers | Some "Parmesan" products have been found to contain fillers such as wood pulp, cheaper cheeses (Cheddar, Swiss, Mozzarella), and other non-dairy ingredients. |
| Health Risks | Consuming "Parmesan" cheese with fillers is not likely to be harmful to health, although it may be misbranded and adulterated, breaking food labeling laws. |
| Taste and Consistency | The addition of fillers and additives may affect the taste and consistency of "Parmesan" cheese compared to traditional Parmigiano-Reggiano. |
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What You'll Learn
Kraft's 100% Grated Parmesan Cheese is not always genuine
Kraft's 100% Grated Parmesan Cheese is a product with a questionable history. While it is marketed as "100% grated Parmesan", it is not always genuine Parmesan cheese. The issue stems from the lack of regulation surrounding the term "Parmesan" in the United States, where the product is sold.
In the European Union, the term "Parmesan" is legally defined as genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano, made according to Italian D.O.C. regulations. These regulations, enacted in 1955, protect the names, origins, production methods, and characteristics of Italian food and wine, ensuring the traditions and quality of Parmigiano-Reggiano. However, in the US, the term "Parmesan" is not regulated, and as a result, products labelled as Parmesan may not meet the standards of their European counterparts.
In 2012, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) investigated Castle Cheese Inc., a Pennsylvania cheese factory, and found that their "100% real parmesan" products contained filler ingredients like wood pulp and cheaper cheeses such as cheddar, Swiss, and mozzarella. This incident brought attention to the issue of fraudulent practices in the American cheese industry. Subsequent investigations by Bloomberg revealed high percentages of cellulose, or powdered wood pulp, in several store-bought grated Parmesan cheeses, including Kraft's product, which had 3.8% cellulose. While cellulose is considered a safe additive, its presence in significant amounts raises questions about the authenticity and quality of the cheese.
The issue of imitation Parmesan cheeses is not limited to Kraft, and it is important to note that there are many good "fake" Parmesan cheeses on the market. However, the discovery of non-dairy filler ingredients and additives in products marketed as "100% grated Parmesan" highlights the need for better regulation and transparency in the American food industry. Consumers who care about the quality and purity of their food should be aware of these practices and make informed choices when purchasing cheese labelled as Parmesan.
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Parmesan in the US is not regulated
In the United States, the word "Parmesan" is not regulated. A cheese labelled as Parmesan in the US might be genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano, but it is more likely to be an imitation. The word "Parmesan" is tightly regulated in Italy and the European Union, and any cheese designated and sold as such must meet high standards for production. In the US, however, when you buy Parmesan, you could be getting almost anything.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is allowed to contain only three simple ingredients: milk (produced in the Parma/Reggio region and less than 20 hours from cow to cheese), salt, and rennet (a natural enzyme from calf intestine). Other ingredients, such as cellulose powder, potassium sorbate, and cheese cultures, are completely illegal in its production. However, these illegal ingredients have been found in products sold as "Parmesan" in the US, such as Kraft 100% Grated Parmesan Cheese.
In 2012, the US Food and Drug Administration investigated the Pennsylvania cheese factory Castle Cheese Inc. and found the company was doctoring its "100% real parmesan" with filler ingredients like wood pulp, or cheaper cheeses like cheddar, Swiss, and mozzarella. Following the FDA's findings, Bloomberg investigated other store-bought grated parmesan and discovered high percentages of cellulose in four different brands.
The lack of regulation around the term "Parmesan" in the US means that consumers may be misled about the quality and ingredients of the cheese they are purchasing.
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Parmesan can be made with wood pulp
In 2012, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) investigated Pennsylvania cheese factory Castle Cheese Inc. and found the company was doctoring its "100% real Parmesan" with filler ingredients like wood pulp, or cheaper cheeses like cheddar, Swiss, and mozzarella. Following the FDA's findings, Bloomberg investigated other store-bought grated Parmesan and discovered high percentages of cellulose—essentially powdered wood pulp and the main ingredient in paper—in four different brands.
Cellulose is considered a fiber and appears in some laxative products and drinks. It is a non-digestible plant fiber, and humans need non-digestible vegetable fiber in their food. While cellulose is safe to consume, people shouldn't rely on grated Parmesan as a source of fiber.
In light of the scandal, Kraft told Bloomberg that they were "committed to the quality of our products." However, Kraft 100% Grated Parmesan Cheese was found to contain cellulose powder, potassium sorbate, and cheese cultures, which are illegal in the production of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
In the United States, the word "Parmesan" is not regulated, so a cheese labeled as Parmesan is more likely to be an imitation. To ensure you are buying genuine Parmesan cheese, it is best to buy a block of Parmesan cheese and grate it yourself.
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Parmesan in the EU is legally defined
In the European Union, Parmesan is a protected designation of origin (PDO) and is legally defined to refer exclusively to Parmigiano Reggiano PDO cheese. This means that the term Parmesan may only be used, by law, to refer to Parmigiano Reggiano itself, which must be made in a restricted geographic area in northern Italy, using stringently defined methods. The European Court of Justice ruled in 2008 that Parmesan is not a generic name and can only be used to refer to Parmigiano Reggiano made according to Italian D.O.C. regulations.
The D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) laws were enacted in Italy in 1955 to protect the names, origins, production methods, and characteristics of Italian food and wine. The purpose of these laws is to preserve the traditions and quality of Italian cheese and wine. Parmigiano Reggiano has been protected as a geographical indication in the 27-country EU since 1996, and special seals identify the product as authentic, with the identification number of the dairy, the production month and year, a code identifying the individual wheel, and stamps regarding the length of aging.
Outside of the EU, the name Parmesan is legally used for imitations, with only the full Italian name, Parmigiano Reggiano, referring to the PDO cheese. In the United States, the term Parmesan is not regulated, and while a cheese labelled as Parmesan may be genuine Parmigiano Reggiano, it is more likely to be an imitation. In the US, the Code of Federal Regulations includes a Standard of Identity for "Parmesan and Reggiano cheese", which defines the production process and the final result. Parmesan must be made of cow's milk, cured for 10 months or more, contain no more than 32% water, and have no less than 32% milk fat in its solids. However, a 2021 report found that in one group of PDO-protected cheeses, which included Parmigiano Reggiano, 90% of the cheeses sold in the US were produced domestically.
Several American manufacturers have been investigated for allegedly exceeding the 4% cellulose limit allowed as an anti-caking agent for grated cheese. In 2012, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) found that Castle Cheese Inc. was doctoring its "100% real parmesan" with filler ingredients like wood pulp, or cheaper cheeses like cheddar, Swiss, and mozzarella. Bloomberg then investigated other store-bought grated parmesan and discovered high percentages of cellulose in four different brands.
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Parmesan cheese is expensive to make
Parmesan, or Parmigiano-Reggiano, is a protected brand and can only be produced in a relatively small area in Italy. This caps production and makes it more expensive. The cheese must be made according to Italian D.O.C. regulations, which dictate that it can only contain three ingredients: milk (produced in the Parma/Reggio region and less than 20 hours from cow to cheese), salt, and rennet (a natural enzyme from calf intestine). The milk fat in the cheese crystallizes over time, resulting in a crumbly, almost crunchy texture. This texture is one of the reasons why Parmesan is so expensive. The ageing process also gives the cheese an earthier, nuttier, sharper flavour, which is another reason for the higher price.
The cost of Parmesan is also driven up by the fact that nothing is wasted during the production process. The whey from the cheese is fed to pigs, which are then used to make Parma ham. The high-quality ingredients and lengthy production time, as well as the strict rules, all contribute to the expense of Parmesan cheese.
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Frequently asked questions
Powdered Parmesan cheese is made of milk, salt, and rennet (a natural enzyme from calf intestine). However, some manufacturers add cellulose, a filler made from wood pulp, to their Parmesan cheese products to save money and add body.
Yes, consuming cellulose is safe for human health. It is a non-digestible plant fiber that is also found in bran flakes and psyllium husks.
In the European Union, the word "Parmesan" is defined by law to be only genuine Parmigiano-Reggiano made according to Italian D.O.C. regulations. Therefore, within the European Union, Parmesan and Parmigiano-Reggiano are the same cheese. In the United States, the word "Parmesan" is not regulated, so a product labeled as Parmesan may be imitation cheese.
To ensure that you are buying real Parmesan cheese, you can buy a block of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and grate it yourself.
