Kamil Perry
Swiss cheese is made from milk, which is first tested and filtered, and then heated to produce thermised or pasteurised milk. Rennet, which can be sourced from the stomach lining of calves, goats, or lambs, is added to the milk to curdle it. The curd is then cut into small pieces, which determines the type of cheese it will become – smaller pieces will result in a harder cheese. The whey, a waste product from the cheesemaking process, is then removed, and the curds are dried out. The cheese is then poured into a mould, and placed in a brine bath to absorb salt and release whey. The cheese is then aged, during which bacteria break down lactic acid and generate carbon dioxide, forming bubbles (eyes) and giving Swiss cheese its distinctive holes.
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What You'll Learn
Milk quality testing
The creameries conduct further tests specific to their facilities to safeguard the production of unpasteurised milk. If no unpasteurised cheese is to be produced, the milk is gently thermised or pasteurised. This process involves heating the milk to a specific temperature range, with thermisation at 63°C and pasteurisation at 72°C or above. These processes help to eliminate any harmful bacteria and ensure the milk is safe for cheese production.
Clarification of milk has been shown to improve the quality of Swiss cheese. This process includes decreasing fat aggregation, increasing oxygen levels, reducing carbon dioxide, improving starter cultures, and lowering leucocyte counts. These steps enhance the cheese's firmness and overall quality.
Chemical and microbiological analyses of cheese milk, finished cheese, and cheese whey are essential to maintain efficient operations and ensure food safety and quality. Milk composition analyses typically include measuring fat and protein content, usually determined by infrared milk analyzers. Additionally, casein content is a critical parameter concerning cheese yield.
Quality management systems and analytical testing protocols are crucial in the dairy industry to differentiate themselves from competitors. Accurate and reliable testing is essential, whether performed in-house or by external laboratories. This includes monitoring bacteria counts, inhibitors, and somatic cell counts for individual producer milks.
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Rennet addition
Rennet is a crucial ingredient in the cheesemaking process, and it can be sourced from various animal, microbial, or plant-based sources. In Switzerland, it is typically derived from the stomach lining of young calves, goats, or lambs, and only a few grams are needed to curdle a large quantity of milk. Rennet not only curdles the milk but also plays a role in the cheese's maturation process.
Once the milk has been sourced and tested for quality, it is filtered and heated to a specific temperature. This temperature depends on whether the milk is raw or pasteurized, with raw milk heated to 86°F and pasteurized milk to 84°F. Maintaining this temperature is essential for the next step, which is adding the rennet.
The addition of rennet to the warmed milk initiates the curdling process. Rennet contains enzymes that break down the milk proteins, causing the milk to thicken and eventually form curds. The amount of rennet added and the time it is allowed to work will determine the texture and consistency of the final cheese.
During the curdling process, the milk separates into solid curds and liquid whey. The whey is carefully removed, and the curds are slowly heated further to dry them out and prepare them for the next steps in the cheesemaking process.
The specific type and amount of rennet used can vary depending on the cheesemaker's preferences and the desired characteristics of the final Swiss cheese. Some cheesemakers may opt for microbial rennet, which is produced by bacteria cultures, or plant-based sources such as cardoon thistle or solanum dobium. However, animal-based rennet is the most traditional and commonly used form in Switzerland.
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Curd cutting
Once the milk has been mixed with rennet and set, it is time to cut the curds. The curds need to be cut to a certain size, which depends on the type of cheese being made. The size of the curd pieces determines the rate and amount of whey released, and thus the texture of the final cheese product. For softer cheeses, the curds are cut into larger pieces, retaining more moisture. For harder cheeses, the curds are cut into smaller pieces, resulting in a harder final product. Many recipes call for curds to be cut into uniform, 1cm cubes. However, for very small curd sizes, a knife may not be sufficient, and a whisk may be used to gently cut the curds into even smaller pieces.
There are a variety of tools available for curd cutting, including cheese harps, curd knives, and curd cutters. Cheese harps are used to cut the curd into small pieces, and the size of the curds determines the texture of the final cheese product. The smaller the curds, the harder the cheese will be. Curd cutters are available in a variety of sizes and can be made from different materials such as nylon strings or stainless wire.
The process of cutting the curds can seem difficult at first, but with practice, it becomes easier. It is important to use the proper equipment to achieve consistency in curd cutting, which is valued by commercial cheesemakers. Home cheesemakers can use equipment that is readily available and upgrade to more specialized tools as needed.
After the curds have been cut, the next step is to slowly increase the heat to dry out the curds. This is done by slowly adding hot water to the curds, stirring them, and then adding more water to reach the desired temperature. The curds are then stirred slowly for an extended period to achieve the final dryness. It is important to check the curds to ensure that they are properly dried before moving on to the next step in the cheesemaking process.
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Brine bath
The brine bath is an essential step in Swiss cheese-making. It involves soaking the cheese wheels in a bath of brine, which is a saturated solution of water and salt. The density of the brine is higher than that of the cheese, allowing the cheese to float in the bath. The duration of the brine bath can vary from a few hours to a few days, depending on the size of the cheese. The high salt content, approximately 22%, helps to remove excess whey and also prevents the formation of unwanted bacteria on the surface of the cheese. During this process, the cheese absorbs the salt, which enhances its flavour and aids in solidification. A rind also forms on the surface, protecting the cheese from external influences and preserving its shape.
The preparation of the brine bath involves adding 2.25 pounds of salt to one gallon of water, along with one tablespoon of calcium chloride (30% solution) and one teaspoon of white vinegar. The cheese is then placed in the brine for approximately 2.5 to 3 hours per pound of weight. It is important to monitor the cheese during the process and ensure it does not become oversalted, as this can impact the development of gas-producing bacteria.
After the brine bath, the cheese is dried off and moved to a cool ageing space with controlled temperature and humidity levels. This ageing process can last from a few weeks to several months, during which the cheese is turned and mould is controlled using a brine-damp cloth. The ageing environment and duration influence the hole development in the cheese, with longer ageing periods resulting in larger holes and more complex flavours.
The brine bath is a critical step in the Swiss cheese-making process, contributing to flavour development, texture, and preservation. It helps remove whey, form a protective rind, and control unwanted bacteria growth. The duration and specifics of the brine bath can vary depending on the cheesemaker's recipe and the desired characteristics of the final product.
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Aging
The aging process for Swiss cheese varies depending on the type of cheese, the region it is made in, and the desired flavour profile. The aging process, also known as maturation, can take place in cellars or caves and can last anywhere from three months to over 14 months. During this time, the cheese wheels are periodically washed with brine or a secret herbal brine recipe, which helps to develop their flavour and texture.
One of the most famous Swiss cheeses, Emmentaler, is offered in eight different expressions of ripeness, ranging from a minimum of four months to more than 14 months. Longer-aged wheels will have a more intense flavour and a lactic tang, making them perfect for melting into fondue or topping grilled meats. The nutty nuances of Emmentaler, also known as Swiss cheese, intensify as it ages.
Another Swiss cheese, Sbrinz, is aged for at least 16 months. This extensive aging process, coupled with the use of full-fat cow's milk, gives the cheese a dense paste full of crunchy tyrosine crystals and a fudgy texture. Sbrinz is produced in central Switzerland and is considered one of Europe's oldest cheeses, with a history spanning more than two millennia.
Appenzeller, a bold and spicy Swiss cheese, is aged for 7-12 months in maturation caves. The aging process for this cheese involves periodically washing the wheels with a secret herbal brine made from a combination of wine, herbs, spices, and occasionally brandy. This brine has a significant influence on the flavour and texture of the cheese, giving it an assertive and spicy personality.
Raclette du Valais, a semi-hard Swiss cheese, is aged for three months in maturation cellars, giving it a semi-firm and dense texture. The rich diversity of flowers and grass eaten by the grazing cows in the Swiss Alps gives the raw milk used for this cheese a subtly grassy flavour with a milky, tangy finish.
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Frequently asked questions
First, milk is tested and filtered, then it is heated to around 84°F (86°F for raw milk). Next, a culture is added, followed by rennet, which is sourced from the stomach lining of calves, goats, or lambs, or from plants. The rennet curdles the milk and helps the cheese to mature. Once the curd has reached the right consistency, it is cut with a cheese harp, then dried out by slowly increasing the temperature to 102°F. The curds are then stirred, and the cheese is poured into a mould. The cheese is then placed in a brine bath, where it absorbs salt and releases whey. The cheese floats in the brine, so the top is also salted.
The holes in Swiss cheese are carbon dioxide gas bubbles that form as the cheese ages. These bubbles are created by propionic bacteria, which are used in Swiss cheese to break down lactic acid. The longer the cheese is aged, the larger the holes become.
Whey is a waste product from the cheesemaking process. It is the green liquid that escapes from the curd as the cheese is processed. Whey is pumped away and can be used to make whey drinks, whey butter, and quark, or it can be used in processed foods or cosmetics.
Swiss cheese can be made with either raw or pasteurised milk. If raw milk is used, it must be heated to at least 72°C. If pasteurised milk is used, it is heated to 63°C.
