Patrick Oconnell
Blue cheese is a type of aged cheese with a distinct look and flavour, often found on charcuterie boards or in wineries. It is believed to have been discovered by accident when cheeses were stored in caves with naturally controlled temperatures and moisture levels, creating an environment favourable for the growth of harmless moulds. The discovery is often attributed to a shepherd who left his lunch of bread and cheese in one such cave in the Roquefort region of France, only to find it covered in mould upon his return. This mould, now known as Penicillium roqueforti, is responsible for the characteristic blue-green veins and intense flavour of blue cheese.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Discovery | Believed to be accidental |
| Date of Discovery | Estimates range from 85 BC to 1250 BC |
| Place of Discovery | Roquefort region of France, specifically in a cave |
| Discovery Story | A shepherd left his lunch (bread and cheese) in a cave and when he returned, the cheese had turned mouldy with Penicillium roqueforti |
| Scientific Explanation | The mould is believed to have come from a plant pathogen of rye, which made its way into the flour and then the baked bread |
| Types | Danish Blue, Gorgonzola, Cabrales, Stilton, Roquefort |
| Production Process | Standard six-step process with additional ingredients and processes to create blue veins |
| Ingredients | Milk from cows, goats, or sheep, Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium glaucum, lactic acid bacteria |
| Fermentation | Initial fermentation by lactic acid bacteria, followed by Penicillium roqueforti |
| Air Tunnels | Created by piercing the aged curds, allowing oxygen to reach the inside and mould to grow |
| Flavour | Distinctive flavour and aroma due to the presence of methyl ketones and breakdown of fatty acids |
| Texture | Creamy, crumbly, moist, or sharp |
| Colour | Pale to dark blue veins or spots |
| Smell | Distinctive smell from mould or bacteria |
| Health Concerns | Mycotoxin contamination is usually at low levels and health hazards are considered unlikely |
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What You'll Learn
The role of oxygen in blue cheese production
Initially, cheese curds are pressed loosely to allow for air gaps between them. After the curds have aged, they are pierced, creating air tunnels in the cheese. When oxygen reaches the inside of the cheese through these air tunnels, the mould is able to grow along the surface of the curd-air interface, creating the distinctive blue veins.
The blue mould then continues to mature inside the air tunnels, developing its flavour as it ages. This process typically takes between three to six months, with the flavour becoming richer due to the breakdown of fatty acids by the mould, which produces ketones.
In addition to providing oxygen for mould growth, piercing the cheese also allows for the release of carbon dioxide produced by the mould, which can inhibit its growth. By regulating the oxygen and carbon dioxide levels within the cheese, the mould is able to thrive and contribute to the unique flavour and aroma of blue cheese.
While the discovery of blue cheese is believed to have occurred when a shepherd accidentally left cheese in a cave, the specific details of this story vary. Some sources mention the presence of bread, which may have contributed to mould growth. However, old French texts suggest that blue cheese moulds colonised cheese from within rather than on the surface, and genetic evidence supports the idea that the mould originated from a plant pathogen in rye flour rather than food-spoiling moulds.
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The discovery of blue cheese in France
Intrigued, the shepherd tasted the cheese and found that he liked it. Thus, blue cheese was invented. Over the following centuries, cheesemakers in the region developed techniques to create more blue cheese in caves, and the cheese from Roquefort became known for its distinctive mould. While the exact date of the discovery is unknown, estimates range from 85 BC to 1250 BC, with some placing it around 1000 BC or the 7th century.
The mould that characterises blue cheese, Penicillium roqueforti, grows through ewe's or sheep's milk to create Roquefort blue cheese. This mould is now refined and used for almost all blue cheeses by simply adding the mould culture to the cheese milk. Blue cheese is made using milk from cows, goats, or sheep, resulting in a variety of taste and texture combinations. The cheese can be pierced with thin needles or skewers to allow oxygen to reach the inside, facilitating the growth of the blue mould and the development of its distinctive flavour.
The process of making blue cheese consists of six standard steps, similar to other varieties of cheese, but additional ingredients and processes are required to create its unique properties. The commercial-scale production of blue cheese involves two phases: the culturing of suitable spore-rich inocula and fermentation for maximum flavour. Multiple methods can be used to prepare the Penicillium roqueforti inoculum before the actual production of blue cheese, all of which involve using a freeze-dried culture of the mould.
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How blue cheese gets its blue colour
The blue-green veins of blue cheese are created by moulds, specifically Penicillium roqueforti and Penicillium glaucum, which require oxygen to grow. The moulds are added to the cheese after the normal cheese-making process and are left to ferment. To allow oxygen to reach the inside of the cheese, it is pierced with thin needles or skewers, creating air tunnels through which the mould can grow.
The distinctive colour of blue cheese is created by the mould growing along the surface of the curd-air interface. The veins are also responsible for the cheese's aroma. The mould breaks down fatty acids to form ketones, giving blue cheese its rich flavour and smell. The total ketone content is constantly monitored during the ripening process, as the distinctive flavour and aroma of blue cheese are the result of methyl ketones, which are a metabolic product of Penicillium roqueforti.
The discovery of blue cheese is believed to have occurred by accident. One legend states that a shepherd, distracted by a beautiful woman, left his lunch of bread and cheese in a cave outside the village of Roquefort in France. When he returned months later, the cheese had become infested with Penicillium roqueforti, a mould that was growing in the cave. Another legend suggests that a drunken cheesemaker forgot his cheese in a cave. Surveys of caves have failed to find P. roqueforti spores, leading researchers to believe that the mould came from a plant pathogen in rye flour, which then made its way into baked bread.
Cheesemakers today still use caves to create blue cheese, manipulating humidity and temperature to cultivate the mould. The cheese is often pierced before the mould is added to create the air gaps necessary for the growth of Penicillium roqueforti.
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The different types of blue cheese
Blue cheese is a general classification of cheeses that are injected with a type of Penicillium mould culture during the production process. The mould injection is responsible for the distinct appearance of blue cheese, with dark veins throughout a pale interior. However, not all blue cheeses are created equal. They vary in aroma, texture, flavour, colour, consistency, and milk type. Here are some of the different types of blue cheese:
Roquefort
Considered one of the "traditional classics", Roquefort is believed to be the region where blue cheese mould was discovered in France. It is made by putting bread in a cave to let the mould form, then smearing it on the outside of the cheese. While it can be made outside the caves today, the rules governing its making specify that it must be aged in the caves of Roquefort. Roquefort has a distinct smell and a sharp, salty, and pungent flavour.
Fourme d'Ambert
This French blue cheese from Auvergne is almost as old as Roquefort, dating back to Roman times. It is made from raw cow's milk and has a creamy texture with stark dark-blue veins. Fourme d'Ambert has a mild, mushroomy, and slightly earthy flavour.
Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage
Originating from Rhône-Alpes, this blue cheese dates back to the 14th century. It is made with pasteurized cow's milk and has a soft, buttery texture and a mellow, slightly sweet flavour.
Bleu d'Auvergne
Another speciality from Auvergne, Bleu d'Auvergne is made with raw cow's milk and Penicillium Glaucum. It has a moist but crumbly texture and a sharp, spicy, and grassy flavour.
Bleu de Bresse
One of the newer blue cheese varieties, Bleu de Bresse was developed in Bresse after World War II.
Danablu
Invented in the 20th century, Danablu (or Danish Blue) is considered one of the seminal Danish cheeses. It is made from full-fat pasteurized cow's milk and has a semi-soft, creamy, and crumbly texture. Danablu has a mellow flavour with a distinct sharpness and a slightly bitter bite.
Stichelton
Stichelton is similar to Blue Stilton but is made with unpasteurized milk.
Cambozola
Cambozola is a 20th-century cheese that was created to fill the demand for Roquefort-style cheeses.
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The process of making blue cheese
The next step involves the addition of cultures of edible moulds, specifically Penicillium roqueforti, which is responsible for the blue-green veins and spots in the cheese. This mould requires oxygen to grow, and it breaks down the lactic acid in the cheese, maintaining a pH above 6.0. The mould is either injected into the cheese or mixed with the curds, and the cheese is then pierced with needles or skewers to create air tunnels for the mould to grow and mature. This piercing also allows the flavours that accumulate around the exterior to be distributed throughout the cheese.
The cheese is then aged and ripened, typically in temperature-controlled environments like caves, which provide natural temperature and moisture regulation. During this ageing process, the mould ferments the cheese, breaking down fatty acids to form ketones, which contribute to the rich flavour and aroma of blue cheese. The total ketone content is monitored to ensure the desired flavour profile. The ageing process can take between three to six months, and the longer the cheese ages, the more intense the flavour becomes.
Some variations and additional steps may be incorporated by different cheesemakers to create unique flavours and characteristics in their blue cheese. For example, the original Roquefort blue cheese from France is made with raw sheep's milk and aged in specific caves, contributing to its distinct flavour and texture.
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Frequently asked questions
Blue cheese is believed to have been discovered by accident when cheeses were stored in caves with naturally controlled temperature and moisture levels, which happened to be favourable environments for the growth of harmless moulds.
It is generally accepted that blue cheese was discovered in the Roquefort region of France, specifically in one of the many caves in the area.
Estimates for the discovery of blue cheese range from 85 BC to 1250 BC, with some sources placing it around 1000 BC or the 7th century.
Blue cheese is made using moulds such as Penicillium roqueforti and Penicillium glaucum, which require oxygen to grow.
Cheesemakers pierce the aged curds with thin needles or skewers to create air tunnels in the cheese. When given oxygen, the mould grows along the surface of the curd-air interface, creating the characteristic blue veins.
