Stinky Cheese: What Makes Them Smell So Bad?

Stinky cheese is a result of the science of fermentation. Cheese is made by adding bacteria to milk and allowing it to ferment, producing lactic acid, which gives cheese its tangy flavour. However, the type of bacteria used in the fermentation process and the length of the ripening process can also produce smelly compounds. The longer a cheese is aged, the stinkier it becomes. The washed-rind family of cheeses takes the top honours in the stinky cheese division. During the aging process, the rinds of these cheeses are rinsed with anything from brine to brandy, including wine, beer, and even pear cider, to inhibit mould and encourage the growth of bacteria. The bacteria Brevibacterium linens gives the rind its aroma; it is also the same bacteria responsible for making feet stink. Some of the most popular stinky cheeses include Limburger, Epoisses, and Taleggio.

Why do some cheeses smell bad?

Some cheeses smell bad due to the bacteria used in the fermentation process. While all cheese is made by adding bacteria to milk and allowing it to ferment, producing lactic acid and giving cheese its characteristic tangy flavour, some bacteria produce more pungent compounds than others. The longer a cheese is ripened, the more time it has to develop these odorous compounds.

The washed-rind family of cheeses is often considered the stinkiest type of cheese. During the aging process, the rinds of these cheeses are washed with salty brines or alcohol, such as wine, beer, or brandy, to prevent mould and encourage the growth of bacteria. The bacteria Brevibacterium linens, or b. linens, gives the rind its distinctive aroma. This is the same bacteria that makes feet smell!

While the rind of washed-rind cheeses may have an intense smell, the cheese within is usually milder in flavour. Examples of washed-rind cheeses include Camembert, Livarot Munster, and Stinking Bishop.

Other notably stinky cheeses include Epoisses de Bourgogne, a cow's milk cheese from France that is washed in brandy and banned from French public transportation due to its strong odour; Casu Marzu, a Sardinian sheep's milk cheese infested with live maggots; and Pont l’Eveque, a delicate and creamy unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from France.

Despite their pungent odours, these cheeses are often incredibly flavourful and worth trying for those who enjoy strong-tasting foods.

Why do people like stinky cheese?

Stinky cheese is an acquired taste, and many people find the smell off-putting. However, there is a growing appreciation for these strong-smelling varieties, and some people actively seek them out for their unique flavours and textures.

Stinky cheese, or washed-rind cheese, is created by washing the rind with salty brines or alcohol during the ageing process. This inhibits mould and encourages the growth of bacteria, specifically b. linens, which is the same bacteria responsible for body odour and sweaty feet. The longer the cheese is aged, the more time the bacteria have to develop their pungent aroma.

Despite the strong smell, the flavour of the cheese is often milder than expected. The cheese inside the rind can be soft-ripened or semi-firm and is usually less pungent than the rind. The unique flavours of stinky cheese are often described as earthy, nutty, or fruity, with hints of garlic, grass, or butter.

Stinky cheese has a long cultural tradition, particularly in France, Italy, and England, where they are crafted with care and savoured. These cheeses are the opposite of mass-produced "junk food" and are instead part of the sustainability movement known as "slow food".

Some of the most famous stinky cheeses include:

• Epoisses de Bourgogne: A cow's milk cheese from France, washed in brandy, with a strong smell and a sweet and salty flavour.
• Stinking Bishop: An English cheese washed with perry, an alcoholic beverage made from pears, with an intense and creamy flavour.
• Taleggio: A pungent-smelling Italian cheese with a moderately tangy flavour, often used in cooking.
• Casu Marzu: A Sardinian sheep's milk cheese infested with live maggots, with a strong aroma and a sharp, tangy flavour.

So, while the smell of stinky cheese may be off-putting to some, many people appreciate these cheeses for their complex flavours, unique textures, and long cultural traditions.

How is stinky cheese made?

Stinky cheese, or washed-rind cheese, is made by washing the cheese's rind during the aging process. This rind-washing process is done to inhibit mould and encourage the growth of bacteria. The rind is typically washed with salty brines or alcohol, which gives the cheese its distinctive smell and taste.

The bacteria responsible for the stench is called Brevibacterium linens, or b. linens for short. This is the same bacteria that causes body odour. B. linens can be added directly to the brine or introduced to the milk prior to cheesemaking. As the cheese ages, the bacteria break down the cheese, resulting in a creamy texture that becomes oozier with age.

The washing process also affects the flavour of the cheese. For example, monks in medieval times would lace their cheese brines with booze, which added flavour, complexity, and preservation power. Today, brandy, port, beer, and saltwater are commonly used to wash cheese rinds, resulting in unique flavours and smells.

Different types of stinky cheese can be made by using different starter cultures or slightly varying the steps of the cheese-making process. For instance, mozzarella cheese is kneaded like bread dough to give it its signature stretchy texture. The extra ageing process also intensifies the cheese's aroma.

What are some examples of stinky cheese?

Stinky cheese, also known as smelly cheese, is characterised by its strong odour, which is a result of the cheese being aged for a long period, allowing bacteria to form and produce pungent smells. Despite their off-putting smell, these cheeses are often very flavoursome and are worth trying for those who enjoy strong-tasting foods. The washed-rind family of cheeses is considered to be the stinkiest, with the bacteria brevibacterium linens, which is also responsible for foot odour, giving the rind its distinctive aroma.

Camembert

One of France's most famous cheeses, Camembert is known for its strong mushroom notes, with hints of garlic, barnyard and ripe laundry. The AOC variety "Camembert de Normandie" is required by law to be made with unpasteurised milk, but this variety is becoming harder to find.

Ami du Chambertin

Made from unpasteurised cow's milk in the Gevrey-Chambertin area of Burgundy, the rind of this cheese is washed with Marc de Bourgogne brandy. Its smell is described as "putrid" and barnyard-like, but its flavour is of grassy butter and cream.

Epoisses de Bourgogne

Produced by Jacques Hennart in the village of Epoisses, France, this cow's milk cheese is also washed in Marc de Bourgogne brandy. Epoisses is renowned for its strong odour and is banned from the Parisian public transportation system. However, it has a sweet and salty flavour.

Fiance des Pyrenees

An unpasteurised goat's milk cheese from the Pyrenees, Fiance des Pyrenees has a gooey, oozy texture and a "yeasty" and "fragrant" aroma.

Limburger

Limburger is a stinky cheese that originated in Wisconsin in the late 1800s by Swiss immigrant John Jossi, who was inspired by Limburger cheese. It is pressed with bricks during the ageing process, giving it its brick shape.

Taleggio

Taleggio is a classic Italian washed-rind cheese with a yeasty quality rather than a full-on funk, making it one of the more approachable washed-rind cheeses. It is versatile and can be used in dishes such as braised short rib sandwiches or melted on pizzas.

Stinking Bishop

Stinking Bishop is a newer cheese from Gloucestershire, England, made with pasteurised cow's milk. Its rind is washed with Perry, an alcoholic beverage made from the Stinking Bishop variety of pear. It has an intense, creamy flavour and is often paired with roasted potatoes.

How to pair stinky cheese with other food and drink

Stinky cheese, or washed-rind cheese, is often paired with strong-flavoured foods and drinks to complement its boldness. The rind of these cheeses is washed with brine, wine, beer, or spirits during the maturing process, giving them an orange hue, a rich flavour, and, of course, a strong aroma.

When pairing stinky cheese with other foods, it is important to consider the five components of taste: salty, sweet, bitter, sour, and umami. A general rule of thumb is that stinky cheese pairs well with other strong-flavoured foods. For example, Limburger cheese, also known as "stinky cheese", is commonly served on rye bread, with mustard, and raw red onion. It can also be spread on crackers or a board with jam, similar to brie. Another example is Epoisses, a stinky cheese that is often paired with floral apricot jam.

When it comes to drinks, stinky cheese demands a strong beverage to stand up to its strong flavour and aroma. A good pairing will complement rather than compete with the cheese. For example, a sweet wine, such as Zinfandel, pairs well with the mildness of Limburger cheese. A classic pairing is port and Stilton, with the dessert wine's sweetness acting as a foil for the salty bite of the blue cheese. Another wine to consider is Riesling, which has high acidity and subtle sweetness that balances the richness of sweet-salty cheeses like Gorgonzola Dolce. If you're looking for a red wine, go for one with plenty of body and juicy fruit, but subtle tannins, such as an Australian Shiraz or a jammy Zinfandel.

If you're not a wine drinker, there are other beverage options that pair well with stinky cheese. A funky Basque-style cider is an excellent choice, especially with intense washed-rind cheeses like Epoisses, as it brings out the umami flavour. Strong Belgian or Northern French beers, such as Trappist beers like Orval or Chimay, are also a good match for stinky cheeses. For a non-alcoholic option, seltzer water with lemon works great, as the acid in the lemon helps to disperse the richness of creamy cheeses, and the bubbles spread the cheese across the palate.

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