Patrick Oconnell
The Philippines has a varied cheese scene, from carton cheeses to new gourmet options. However, the most popular native cheese is Kesong Puti, a traditional soft, white cheese made from unskimmed carabao milk, salt, and rennet or vinegar. Carabao milk is similar to cow's milk but is considered slightly creamier and has more than double the fat content. The cheese is usually sold wrapped in banana leaves and is often eaten with bread.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name | Kesong puti |
| Other names | Quesong puti, Caviteño kesilyo or kasilyo, Cebuano queseo or kiseyo, quesillo |
| Origin | Santa Cruz, Laguna, located southeast of the capital, Manila |
| Regions of production | Laguna, Cebu, Cavite, Bulacan, Samar |
| Main ingredient | Carabao milk |
| Other ingredients | Goat or cow milk, salt, vinegar, citrus juices, rennet |
| Texture | Soft, gelatinous to pressed and firm |
| Taste | Mild salty and tart flavor |
| Similarity | Queso blanco, paneer, mozzarella |
| Packaging | Banana leaves |
| Shelf life | About a week to a month if packaged correctly and refrigerated |
| Use | Eaten as is, paired with bread (usually pandesal), used in various dishes in Filipino cuisine |
| Other cheeses in the Philippines | Davao Blue Goat cheese, Eden cheese, Kraft string cheese, Cheez Whiz |
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What You'll Learn
Kesong puti is a traditional soft white cheese
There are several regional variations of kesong puti in the Philippines. The Laguna version, for example, uses rennet from carabao or cow abomasum, while the Cebuano queseo typically uses more salt and the molds are lined with muslin cloth. The Caviteño quesillo, on the other hand, is not a fermented cheese and uses vinegar as the coagulant.
Kesong puti is a versatile cheese that can be eaten on its own, paired with bread, or used in various dishes such as bibingka (a baked rice cake) and cheesecakes. It is widely popular in the Philippines and is considered a staple in the country's cuisine. It is also relatively simple to make, which is probably why it has remained a cottage industry in the Philippines.
In addition to kesong puti, there are other cheeses produced in the Philippines, such as the Davao Blue Goat cheese made from pasteurized goat milk, and the Malagos Feta Tricolore, which includes homegrown rosemary and red pepper flakes. However, the country's cheese inventory is largely made up of processed cheeses like Eden and Kraft string cheese.
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It's made from carabao milk, salt, and vinegar
Kesong puti, which translates to "white cheese", is a Filipino cheese made from carabao milk, salt, and vinegar. Carabao, the country's national animal, is a native water buffalo in the Philippines. Carabao milk is more nutritious than cow's milk, with more fat and protein and less cholesterol and lactose.
The process of making kesong puti starts by heating carabao milk with salt in a large saucepan over low heat. It is important not to let the milk boil, as this would result in rubbery curds. Instead, the milk should be heated until tiny bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Once heated, the milk is taken off the heat and vinegar is added to curdle the milk and separate the curds from the whey. The milk is then left to cool, and the curds are strained and moulded into shape, often using banana leaves.
The amount of salt used and the consistency of the cheese determine how long kesong puti lasts. Softer cheeses spoil faster, while firmer cheeses can last from two weeks to a month if packaged correctly and refrigerated. Freezing kesong puti is not recommended as it damages the smooth texture of the cheese.
There are several regional variations of kesong puti in the Philippines, including Laguna, Cavite, and Bulacan. Each region has its own unique production techniques and ingredients, resulting in different textures and flavours of the cheese.
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It's used in dishes like bibingka, a baked rice cake
Bibingka is a Filipino baked rice cake that is slightly sweet and often filled with pockets of cream cheese. It is a popular dessert, snack, or breakfast food in the Philippines. The cream cheese used in bibingka can be made from a variety of cheeses, including kesong puti, a traditional Filipino cheese, or cream cheese available in blocks.
Kesong puti, also known as Filipino white cheese, is a versatile cheese used in many Filipino recipes, including bibingka. It is made from carabao milk, which comes from the domesticated Philippine swamp buffalo, and has a higher fat and protein content than cow's milk. To make kesong puti, carabao milk is heated with salt and curdled with vinegar or citrus juices, such as kalamansi or calamondin juice, giving it a mildly salty and tart flavor. The curds are then strained and molded in small cups or banana leaves, which add flavor and natural wax that preserves the cheese.
Bibingka can also be made with other types of cheese, such as queso de bola, a Filipino cheese influenced by the Dutch cheese Edam, or simply cream cheese. When making bibingka with cream cheese, the cheese is beaten with sugar until smooth, and then eggs are added one at a time. This mixture is then combined with coconut cream, salt, and vanilla to create a creamy and rustic-looking cheesecake.
In addition to cheese, bibingka is often made with sweet rice or glutinous rice flour, coconut milk, butter, and salted eggs. The rice batter is baked in the oven, and then topped with butter and sugar, creating a delicious treat that can be enjoyed at any time of the day.
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Artisan cheesemakers are bringing unique cheeses to the Philippines
The Philippines has long been a country where processed and imported cheeses reign supreme. However, in recent years, a growing number of artisan cheesemakers have been bringing unique cheeses to the country, transforming its cheese scene.
The most well-known Filipino-made cheese is Kesong puti, a traditional soft, white, unaged cheese made from unskimmed carabao milk, salt, and rennet (a natural enzyme produced in the stomach of a carabao) or vinegar. Carabao milk is similar to cow's milk but is richer, with a creamier aftertaste. The process of making Kesong puti is relatively simple, which is why it has remained a cottage industry in the Philippines. The basic steps involve heating carabao milk with salt and curdling it with vinegar. The resulting cheese is slightly salty with a soft texture, similar to ricotta or mozzarella.
However, artisan cheesemakers in the Philippines are now experimenting with different types of cheeses. For example, Malagos Farmhouse in Davao offers a range of cheeses made from goat's milk, including the Davao Blue Goat Cheese, the Borracho (aged in dark beer), and the Sophia Cheese (savory and rich with a creamy texture). There are also local farms producing Italian cheeses, and foreigners who have settled in the Philippines and started their own goat farms.
The Philippines also has its own unique cheese culture, with provincial variations in texture, shape, packaging, and language. For instance, in Cavite, there is quesillo (or kasilyo), a flat square of cheese individually wrapped in banana leaves, perfect for a single serving. In Samar, there is the round queseo (or keseo), which is often paired with tuba, an indigenous wine made from fermented coconut sap. These regional variations of Kesong puti showcase the country's diverse cheese offerings.
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Davao Blue Goat cheese is another popular cheese made from goat milk
The Philippines has a varied cheese scene, ranging from traditional soft white cheeses to processed cheeses. The most popular cheese in the Philippines is Kesong puti, a soft, unaged white cheese made from unskimmed carabao milk and salt curdled with vinegar, citrus juices, or sometimes rennet.
While Kesong puti is the most popular cheese in the Philippines, other cheeses such as Davao Blue Goat cheese and other artisanal cheeses are gaining traction and changing the cheese landscape in the country.
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Frequently asked questions
The Philippines has a varied cheese scene, from processed and imported cheeses to local artisan cheeses. The most popular local cheese is Kesong puti, a traditional soft white cheese made from unskimmed carabao milk, salt, and vinegar or rennet.
Kesong puti has a mild salty and tart flavour. Its texture can vary from soft and gelatinous to pressed and firm, similar to mozzarella or feta.
Davao on the island of Mindanao produces several goat's milk cheeses, including Blue Goat Cheese, Feta Tricolore, Borracho (aged in dark beer), and Sophia Cheese.
