Patrick Oconnell
Cheese has been made in England for nearly 2,000 years. The Romans occupying the region used rennet from ruminant animals to make cheese during the summer months, recognising it as an important food source. The production of cheese predates recorded history, beginning well over 7,000 years ago. It's likely that cheese was first made by accident, as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made of ruminants' stomachs. In England, many early cheeses were made from ewe's milk, especially in the more rugged terrain of the north. By the 17th century, cows had become the preferred dairy animal, especially in areas with flatter landscapes and excellent grazing conditions.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Date | Cheese-making in England dates back nearly 2,000 years |
| Early cheeses | Made from ewe's milk |
| Preferred dairy animal by 17th century | Cows |
| Average herd size in the 17th century | 5 cows |
| Shift in cheese consumption | Early 20th century |
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What You'll Learn
The origins of English cheesemaking
English cheesemaking dates back nearly 2,000 years. Evidence suggests that the Romans occupying the region at that time used rennet from ruminant animals to create cheese during the summer months, recognising cheese as an important food source. The production of cheese predates recorded history, beginning well over 7,000 years ago. Humans likely developed cheese and other dairy foods by accident, as a result of storing and transporting milk in bladders made of ruminants' stomachs, as their inherent supply of rennet would encourage curdling.
There is no conclusive evidence indicating where cheese-making originated, but it could have been Europe, Central Asia, the Middle East or the Sahara. The earliest direct evidence for cheesemaking is now being found in excavated clay sieves (holed pottery) over seven thousand years old, for example in Kujawy, Poland, and the Dalmatian coast in Croatia, the latter with dried remains which chemical analysis suggests was cheese.
For much of the Middle Ages, land ownership practices shaped how cheese was made and consumed. The feudal system of lords and tenants encouraged production that was mostly centralised, taking advantage of the labour available through agricultural workers. Many of the early cheeses in England were made from ewe's milk, especially those made in the more rugged terrain of the north. By the 17th century, cows would become the preferred dairy animal, especially in areas with flatter landscapes and excellent grazing conditions which could support larger herds. This increase in herd size meant more cheese could be made, which led to more wheels travelling to urban areas and, ultimately, abroad to meet the growing demand. While larger and wealthier producers worked to expand their production and global reach, the rural areas continued to make cheeses to sustain themselves.
The early 20th century saw a shift in cheese consumption in England. Labour shortages and economic hardships drove dairies to shift production to liquid milk, which in turn caused the need for more cheese to be imported into the country. By 1913, over 82% of all the cheese consumed across the United Kingdom was imported. The rationing needs of both World Wars made matters much, much worse, leading to all matters of production and distribution falling under government control. The decades that followed saw a massive increase in demand for cheap, supermarket cheese, a trend that pushed farmhouse production closer to extinction.
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Cheddar's dominance
Cheese production in England dates back nearly 2,000 years, with evidence suggesting that the Romans occupying the region at the time used rennet from ruminant animals to create cheese during the summer months. For much of the Middle Ages, land ownership practices shaped how cheese was made and consumed. The feudal system of lords and tenants encouraged production that was mostly centralised, taking advantage of the labour available through agricultural workers.
The 17th century also saw a shift in dairy animals, with cows becoming the preferred choice, especially in areas with flatter landscapes and excellent grazing conditions that could support larger herds. This increase in herd size meant more cheese could be made, which led to more wheels travelling to urban areas and, ultimately, abroad to meet the growing demand. While larger and wealthier producers worked to expand their production and global reach, the rural areas continued to make cheeses to sustain themselves.
The early 20th century saw another shift in cheese consumption in England. Labour shortages and economic hardships drove dairies to shift production to liquid milk, which in turn caused the need for more cheese to be imported into the country. By 1913, over 82% of all the cheese consumed across the United Kingdom was imported. The rationing needs of both World Wars made matters much worse, leading to all matters of production and distribution falling under government control. The decades that followed saw a massive increase in demand for cheap, supermarket cheese, a trend that pushed farmhouse production closer to extinction.
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The rise of cows' milk
Cheese production in England dates back nearly 2,000 years, with evidence suggesting that the Romans occupying the region at the time used rennet from ruminant animals to create cheese during the summer months. For much of the Middle Ages, land ownership practices shaped how cheese was made and consumed. The feudal system of lords and tenants encouraged production that was mostly centralised, taking advantage of the labour available through agricultural workers.
In the early 20th century, labour shortages and economic hardships drove dairies to shift production to liquid milk, which in turn caused the need for more cheese to be imported into the country. By 1913, over 82% of all the cheese consumed across the United Kingdom was imported. The rationing needs of both World Wars made matters much worse, leading to all matters of production and distribution falling under government control. The decades that followed saw a massive increase in demand for cheap, supermarket cheese, a trend that pushed farmhouse production closer to extinction.
The rise of cow's milk in cheesemaking can be traced back to the 17th century, when cows became the preferred dairy animal, especially in areas with flatter landscapes and excellent grazing conditions that could support larger herds. This increase in herd size meant that more cheese could be made, leading to more wheels travelling to urban areas and, ultimately, abroad to meet the growing demand. While larger and wealthier producers worked to expand their production and global reach, the rural areas continued to make cheeses to sustain themselves.
Prior to the 17th century, many early English cheeses were made from ewe's milk, especially those made in the more rugged terrain of the north. By the middle of the century, more than 4,000 farms were making Cheshire, a crumbly, dense cheese, although the average herd size was only five cows, barely enough to create a wheel of Cheshire a day. In the southwestern parts of the country, farms would often combine resources to create gigantic, 120-pound wheels that could handle significant ageing, often more than five years.
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The impact of the First and Second World Wars
Cheese has been made in England for nearly 2,000 years. The Romans occupying the region used rennet from ruminant animals to create cheese during the summer months, recognising cheese as an important food source.
The First and Second World Wars had a significant impact on cheese production and consumption in England. Rationing led to all matters of production and distribution falling under government control. This, combined with labour shortages and economic hardships, meant that more cheese had to be imported into the country. By 1913, over 82% of all the cheese consumed across the United Kingdom was imported.
In the post-war decades, there was a massive increase in demand for cheap, supermarket cheese. This trend pushed farmhouse production closer to extinction. The average herd size was only 5 cows, barely enough to create a wheel of Cheshire a day. However, farms in the southwestern parts of the country would often combine resources to create gigantic, 120-pound wheels that could handle significant ageing, often more than 5 years.
By the 17th century, cows became the preferred dairy animal, especially in areas with flatter landscapes and excellent grazing conditions that could support larger herds. This increase in herd size meant more cheese could be made, which led to more wheels travelling to urban areas and, ultimately, abroad to meet the growing demand.
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The decline of farmhouse production
Cheese-making in England dates back nearly 2,000 years. The Romans occupying the region at that time used rennet from ruminant animals to create cheese during the summer months. However, the 20th century saw a shift in cheese consumption in England. Labour shortages and economic hardships drove dairies to shift production to liquid milk, which in turn caused the need for more cheese to be imported into the country. By 1913, over 82% of all the cheese consumed across the United Kingdom was imported.
The two World Wars further exacerbated the situation, with rationing leading to government control of production and distribution. This period also saw a massive increase in demand for cheap, supermarket cheese, which pushed farmhouse production closer to extinction. While farmhouse cheese production had sustained rural areas for centuries, the shift towards urbanisation and globalisation meant that larger and wealthier producers could expand their production and reach, leaving smaller producers behind.
The decline of farmhouse cheese production in England can be attributed to a combination of historical, economic, and social factors. The labour shortages and economic hardships of the early 20th century made it difficult for small-scale farmhouse producers to keep up with the increasing demand for cheese. The centralised production and distribution systems implemented during the World Wars further marginalised these small-scale producers, as they could not compete with the large-scale, industrial production that emerged.
Additionally, the rise of supermarkets and the demand for cheap cheese further eroded the market share of farmhouse producers. Consumers increasingly favoured convenience and low prices over traditional, artisanal cheese. This shift in consumer preferences, coupled with the challenges faced by small-scale producers, ultimately led to the decline of farmhouse cheese production in England. While some farmhouse cheesemakers have managed to survive and adapt to the changing market, many have struggled to keep up with the competition and have been pushed out of the market.
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Frequently asked questions
Cheese in England dates back nearly 2,000 years, when the Romans occupying the region used rennet from ruminant animals to create cheese during the summer months.
Early English cheeses were made from ewe's milk, especially in the more rugged terrain of the north. By the 17th century, cows became the preferred dairy animal in areas with flatter landscapes and excellent grazing conditions.
Prior to Cheddar's ascension, Cheshire was the predominant cheese produced across England. By the middle of the 17th century, more than 4,000 farms were making the crumbly, dense cheese.
