
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese, is a dish of macaroni pasta and a cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. While it is difficult to pinpoint the exact origins of the dish, it is believed to have been influenced by various cultural and historical factors, with roots tracing back to medieval England and Italy. The popularity of mac and cheese has led to numerous variations, including gourmet versions that feature a medley of cheeses and add-ins, reflecting the creativity and versatility of this comfort food favourite.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Earliest recipe | De lasanis from the "Liber de Coquina", an Italian cookbook from the 13th century |
| First modern recipe | Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, "The Experienced English Housekeeper" |
| First boxed macaroni and cheese | Introduced by Kraft Foods in 1937 |
| Country of origin | England, with Italian roots |
| Introduced to the United States | By James Hemings, an enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson |
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What You'll Learn

Macaroni and cheese's Italian origins
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese" as it is commonly called in Canada and the United States, is a dish of macaroni pasta and a cheese sauce, most often a cheddar sauce. While the dish has become a classic American food, its origins trace back to Italy.
The first-ever recorded recipe for macaroni and cheese is thought to be from the 13th century. The recipe, called "de lasanis", can be found in the Italian cookbook "Liber de Coquina" or "Book of Cooking". It includes sheet pasta cut into squares, cooked in water and tossed with grated cheese, likely Parmesan. However, some sources claim that this recipe is more akin to lasagna than mac and cheese.
Another early recipe for a dish resembling mac and cheese can be found in the English cookbook "Forme of Cury", written in 1390 by the kitchen staff of King Richard II. The recipe, titled "makerouns", calls for fresh, hand-cut pasta sandwiched between a mixture of melted butter and cheese, similar to lasagna.
In the 1400s, Maestro Martino, an Italian living in the Duchy of Milano, Lombardy, published the cookbook "Libro de Arte Coquinaria", which contains several macaroni dishes. This region was part of Switzerland at the time, and by 1731, the monastery of Disentis in Switzerland had purchased a macaroni machine.
While the origins of macaroni and cheese can be traced back to Italy, the dish as we know it today likely evolved from these early recipes over time in various regions, including England, Switzerland, and North America. In colonial America, casserole dishes similar to mac and cheese were served at New England church suppers and were likely introduced by early English settlers. Thomas Jefferson, who encountered the dish in Paris, may have helped to popularize it in the United States, although it was likely his enslaved Black chef, James Hemmings, who perfected the recipe.
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The role of Thomas Jefferson and James Hemings in popularising the dish
While macaroni and cheese can trace its roots to Italy, with the earliest known recipe being from the 13th century, Thomas Jefferson and his enslaved chef, James Hemings, are credited with popularising the dish in America.
Jefferson is known to have brought back macaroni from Europe to Monticello and served it to many of America's founding fathers. However, it was James Hemings who did the cooking. Hemings was Jefferson's enslaved chef, brother-in-law, and personal valet. He spent five years with Jefferson in Paris, learning French cuisine while Jefferson acted as the United States minister to France from 1784 to 1789.
While in Europe, Jefferson either saw or read about a pasta-making apparatus and set about acquiring one. In February 1789, William Short wrote to Jefferson that he had procured a "mould for making maccaroni" in Naples and had sent it to his mentor in Paris. Jefferson also wrote down a recipe for macaroni noodles, which included semolina flour, eggs, and milk. This recipe was adapted from the wildly popular 1824 cookbook, "The Virginia Housewife," written by Jefferson's relative, Mary Randolph. Randolph's recipe included dressing the macaroni with cheese, but she did not specify the type.
James Hemings created the version of macaroni and cheese that we know today. After trying a dish of pasta and cheese in France, which he called macaroni pie, Hemings perfected the recipe that would evolve into the beloved comfort food. While Jefferson and Hemings did not invent macaroni and cheese, they certainly played a significant role in introducing and popularising it in America.
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The evolution of boxed macaroni and cheese
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese", is a popular dish worldwide, particularly in Canada and the United States. It is considered a "comfort food" and has been described as a simple yet complementary combination of pasta and cheese. The earliest known iteration of boxed macaroni and cheese can be traced back to a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, named Grant Leslie. The evolution of this beloved dish in boxed form can be summarised in the following paragraphs.
The Early Years: Grant Leslie's Innovation
In the early 20th century, Grant Leslie, a salesman in St. Louis, Missouri, had a novel idea. He attached processed cheese produced by Kraft Foods to boxes of pasta using rubber bands. This innovation was designed to boost pasta sales, and it caught the attention of Kraft, who recognised the potential of this convenient pairing. Kraft hired Leslie, and in 1937, Kraft Macaroni & Cheese was born, also known affectionately as "Kraft Dinner" or "KD" in Canada.
The Great Depression and World War II: A Hearty Meal
The launch of Kraft Macaroni & Cheese in 1937 came at a pivotal time, as the Great Depression loomed large. This convenient and inexpensive meal became known as "the housewife's best friend", providing a nourishing and filling option for families struggling financially. During World War II, rationing further boosted the popularity of boxed macaroni and cheese. With two boxes obtainable for one food rationing stamp or a mere 19 cents, it was an accessible and satisfying meal for many.
Post-War America: A Staple in Pantries
As the world recovered from the war, boxed macaroni and cheese solidified its place in American pantries. It represented convenience and ease for families, especially with the positioning of Kraft's product as a quick and simple meal that could be prepared without hours of drudgery. The processed nature of the dish also contributed to its longevity, as it provided a source of nutrients for those without refrigeration and was ideal for shipping and storage due to its long shelf life.
Modern Times: Innovation and Nostalgia
In modern times, boxed macaroni and cheese has continued to evolve and innovate. Various brands have emerged, offering different takes on the classic dish, including frozen options and simplified preparation methods. The demand for this comfort food was evident during the COVID-19 pandemic, as consumers sought familiar and comforting foods during uncertain times. Additionally, Kraft has experimented with limited-edition boxes, replacing the word "dinner" with "breakfast" to reflect the reality that many people enjoy this dish in the morning.
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Macaroni and cheese as comfort food
Macaroni and cheese is a dish of macaroni pasta and a cheese sauce, most commonly cheddar sauce. Its origins can be traced back to medieval England, with a recipe recorded in 1390 in the cookbook "Forme of Cury". The recipe, for a dish known as "makerouns", describes fresh, hand-cut pasta sandwiched between a mixture of melted butter and cheese.
Over the centuries, macaroni and cheese has become a staple comfort food for many. The combination of pasta and creamy, cheesy sauce is a simple yet complementary concoction that has the potential to make everything right with the world. It is often described as the ultimate comfort food and is loved by people of all ages.
The popularity of macaroni and cheese may be due in part to its ability to evoke positive emotions and memories. Research has shown that people who have had good relationships with their caregivers are more likely to turn to comfort foods when facing difficult times. Macaroni and cheese, with its warm and indulgent qualities, can provide a sense of familiarity and comfort that is especially appealing during challenging periods.
The accessibility and versatility of macaroni and cheese also contribute to its popularity as a comfort food. It can be made from simple, inexpensive ingredients and prepared in various ways, allowing people to create their own favourite versions. During the Great Depression, Kraft Foods introduced Kraft Macaroni and Cheese Dinner, which became an immediate success as a fast, filling, and affordable meal for families.
Macaroni and cheese has become so ingrained in food culture that it is hard to imagine a time without it. It is a dish that brings people together and provides a sense of warmth and satisfaction. Whether it's a homemade recipe passed down through generations or a boxed mix thrown together on a busy weeknight, macaroni and cheese continues to be a beloved comfort food for many.
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Variations in recipes and ingredients
Macaroni and cheese, also known as mac and cheese, is a dish with many variations. The recipe for this dish has evolved over time, with different ingredients and preparation methods being used in different regions. While the traditional recipe calls for macaroni pasta and a cheese sauce, typically cheddar, there are numerous ways to prepare and serve this dish.
One variation in the recipe is the type of cheese used. While cheddar is the most common variety, other types of cheese can also be used, such as Gruyère, Gouda, Havarti, and Jarlsberg. Some recipes even call for a combination of two or more types of cheese. For instance, Ina Garten uses a blend of Gruyère and cheddar cheese. The choice of cheese often depends on its affordability and melting properties. For instance, during the Great Depression, American cooks used cheaper options like Colby or processed cheese.
The pasta used in macaroni and cheese can also vary. While elbow macaroni is commonly used, other short-cut extruded pasta shapes and decorative cut pasta can also be used, especially those with folds and pockets that can hold the cheese. For instance, the earliest recorded recipe for a dish similar to mac and cheese, from the 13th century, calls for sheet pasta cut into squares.
The method of preparation also varies. The traditional method involves baking the dish in a casserole, but it can also be prepared on a stovetop in a saucepan or frying pan, or using a packaged mix. Some recipes call for the pasta to be boiled and drained before adding the cheese, while others suggest layering slices of cheese and pasta and baking them together. To create a crunchy topping, some recipes suggest adding breadcrumbs or crushed crackers to the baked dish.
Macaroni and cheese can also be served in different ways. It can be served as a simple dish of pasta and cheese or dressed up with additional ingredients. For instance, gourmet versions may include add-ins like bacon, tomatoes, or shallots. It can also be served as a deep-fried novelty dish at fairs and food carts or as a macaroni pie, as commonly found in Scotland.
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Frequently asked questions
The earliest known recipe for macaroni and cheese is from the 13th century Italian cookbook "Liber de Coquina," or "Book of Cooking." However, the recipe is believed to be more similar to lasagna than the macaroni and cheese we know today.
The first modern recipe for macaroni and cheese was included in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, "The Experienced English Housekeeper." Raffald's recipe is for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese, a Mornay sauce in French cooking, mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden.
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with introducing macaroni and cheese to the United States, this is incorrect. It was actually James Hemings, Jefferson's enslaved Black chef, who perfected the recipe and introduced it to the USA after learning about it while studying the culinary arts in France.
Kraft Dinner is the most popular brand of packaged macaroni and cheese. It was introduced in 1937 and became an immediate success in the US and Canada due to its low cost and convenience during the Great Depression and World War II.
















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