Bushra Griffith
Macaroni and cheese, or mac and cheese as it is commonly called in Canada and the United States, is a dish with a long and fascinating history. While its exact origins are unknown, it is believed to have ancient roots, with recipes for pasta and cheese dishes appearing in Italian and English cookbooks as early as the 13th century. The dish as we know it today likely originated in England, with Italian influences, and was introduced to the United States by James Hemings, an enslaved chef who worked for Thomas Jefferson. Hemings learned about French cuisine while in Europe with Jefferson and put his own spin on macaroni and cheese, introducing it to America's elite when he served it at a state dinner at the White House.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Date of origin | As early as 160 BCE; the first written and recognised recipe is from the 13th century |
| Place of origin | Italy |
| Introduction to the US | Thomas Jefferson, with his enslaved chef James Hemings, brought macaroni and cheese to the US in the late 18th century |
| Introduction to the UK | As early as the 14th century |
| Introduction to the colonies | 1710, with a recipe called "To Make Soupe Vermicelly" |
| First printed recipe | "The Virginia Housewife", 1824 |
| Inventor | James Hemings, enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson |
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What You'll Learn
- James Hemings, enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson, brought it to the US
- Kraft boxed mac and cheese was introduced in 1937
- The earliest mention of pasta and cheese dates back to 160 BCE
- Mac and cheese was called macrows when it made its way to England
- The first modern recipe with bechamel sauce is from 1769
James Hemings, enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson, brought it to the US
Macaroni and cheese is believed to have been introduced to the United States by James Hemings, an enslaved chef owned by Thomas Jefferson. Hemings was brought to France by Jefferson in 1784 and trained in French cuisine for five years. During this time, he learned about the dish that would later evolve into macaroni and cheese.
Hemings was the first American to train in France as a chef and was also the half-brother of Jefferson's wife, Martha, through generational slave abuse. While in France, he studied culinary arts and learned to make macaroni and cheese, a dish that was considered a favourite of Jefferson's and was often served to guests.
Upon their return to the United States in 1789, Hemings continued to work as a chef for Jefferson, introducing macaroni and cheese to the elite families of the American South. The dish became popular and was included in the cookbook "The Virginia Housewife" in 1824, written by Mary Randolph, a relative of Thomas Jefferson.
Hemings was eventually granted his freedom in 1796 after being forced to train his own enslaved brother as his replacement. However, he died tragically of alcohol poisoning in 1801, at just 36 years old. While Hemings is often left out of the story, with Jefferson taking credit for introducing macaroni and cheese to the United States, it is important to recognise Hemings' role in bringing this dish to the country and contributing to its proliferation in American society.
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Kraft boxed mac and cheese was introduced in 1937
Macaroni and cheese, or "mac and cheese", is a dish with a long history. The story of its arrival in the United States from France is commonly attributed to James Hemings, an enslaved chef owned by Thomas Jefferson. Hemings learned the art of French cooking in the 1780s and introduced macaroni pie, a spin on a traditional French dish, to the American elite upon his return.
However, the story of mac and cheese's proliferation in the United States is also tied to the Kraft boxed version introduced in 1937. During the Great Depression, real cheese became a luxury, and processed cheese gained popularity. Kraft, seeking to sell more products, created powdered processed cheese and paired it with macaroni. The result was Kraft boxed mac and cheese, which promised a quick, easy, and affordable meal for families struggling financially during the Depression.
In its first year, Kraft sold 8 million boxes of its macaroni and cheese, retailing at 19 cents per box, enough to feed a family of four. The product's success continued, with 9 million boxes sold in 1937 alone. During World War II, Kraft mac and cheese became even more popular, with two boxes purchasable for one rationing coupon. In 1943, sales soared to 50 million boxes.
The brand was the first to market boxed macaroni and cheese, and its iconic elbow noodle shape remains a top seller. While the product has undergone changes, such as the removal of artificial ingredients in 2015, Kraft boxed mac and cheese remains a beloved and nostalgic comfort food for many.
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The earliest mention of pasta and cheese dates back to 160 BCE
The history of macaroni and cheese dates back thousands of years, with the earliest mention of pasta and cheese in combination being traced to 160 BCE (Before Common Era). Pasta has appeared in various cultures and continents, from Asia to Africa to the Middle East, and its earliest roots can be found in China during the Shang Dynasty (1700-1100 BCE). The story of pasta also extends to ancient Greece in the first millennium BCE and the Etruscan civilization in Italy during the 4th century BCE.
Pasta, as a culinary art form, flourished in Italy during the Renaissance, and by the 14th century, it had become a staple in Roman and Florentine cuisine. The popularity of pasta continued to grow in the following centuries, especially with the introduction of dried pasta sold in shops.
The specific combination of pasta and cheese in the form of "macaroni and cheese" has a notable history as well. The first mention of macaroni in English dates back to 1279, found in the inventory of a deceased military officer's belongings. In the 14th century, Giovanni Boccacio wrote of macaroni as the idealized food of the fictitious utopian town of Bengodi in "The Decameron."
In 1390, Britain's earliest cookbook, "The Forme of Cury," included a recipe for "makerouns," which involved cutting thin sheets of dough and cooking them in a velouté sauce, similar to a béchamel sauce but made with stock instead of milk. This recipe is believed to have made its way to England from Italy during a period of cultural exchange.
The story of macaroni and cheese's immigration to the United States is often attributed to James Hemings, an enslaved chef owned by Thomas Jefferson. Hemings was brought to France in 1784 to train in French cuisine and later introduced a dish called "macaroni pie" to the United States, providing an American spin on a traditional French dish.
In 1769, "The Experienced English Housekeeper" by Elizabeth Raffauld included a recipe for macaroni and cheese, which is considered one of the earliest recognizably modern recipes for the dish. The recipe instructed boiling macaroni, adding cream and butter, and topping it with toasted parmesan cheese.
Macaroni and cheese recipes were also found in early American cookbooks, such as Patrick Lamb's "Royal Cookery; or the Complete Court-Cook" (1710), which included a recipe for "To Make Soupe Vermicelly," a pasta dish in a butter-rich gravy. These recipes showcase the evolution of macaroni and cheese, reflecting cultural exchanges and adaptations over time.
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Mac and cheese was called macrows when it made its way to England
The history of macaroni and cheese is heavily disputed, and the exact origin of the dish is unknown. However, it is generally believed that the dish originated in Italy and made its way to England in the 14th century, where it was known as "macrows". The earliest recorded recipe for pasta layered with cheese is from the 14th-century Italian cookbook "Liber de Coquina". Due to the widespread culinary exchange occurring in courts throughout Europe during this time, an altered version of this Italian dish likely made its way to England, where it was called "macrows".
The English version of macrows used sliced pasta layered with butter and cheese. A recipe from this time instructs readers to:
> "Take and make a thynne foyle of dowh, and kerve it on pieces, and cast hem on boilling water & seep it wele; take chese and grate it and butter cast hynethen and above as losyns and serve forth."
This can be translated as:
> "Take and make a thin foil of dough and slice it into pieces, and put them in boiling water and cook it well; Take grated cheese and butter and layer above as lasagna and serve forth."
Another recipe from this time calls for square pieces of cooked pasta to be layered with cheese and spices, possibly including a powder fort ("strong powder"). It is thought that this version of the dish may have been eaten with a skewer.
While the dish likely originated in Italy, it is important to note that the English played a significant role in its development and proliferation. Proper macaroni and cheese, as we know it today, was likely invented in England, and it was introduced to America by James Hemings, an enslaved chef of Thomas Jefferson, who learned about it while studying the culinary arts in France. By the 19th century, macaroni and cheese recipes were appearing in influential cookbooks such as Mary Randolph's "The Virginia House-Wife" (1824), further solidifying its place in culinary history.
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The first modern recipe with bechamel sauce is from 1769
The first modern recipe for macaroni and cheese was included in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, The Experienced English Housekeeper. Raffald's recipe is for a béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese, which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden. This recipe is considered to be the first modern recipe for macaroni and cheese as it includes all the elements of the dish that we know today: the appropriate pasta, a proto-béchamel sauce, plenty of cream, and lots of cheese.
In her book, Raffald includes instructions for making a béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese, which she refers to as a "mornay sauce" in French cooking. She directs readers to mix this sauce with macaroni, sprinkle it with parmesan, and bake it until it is bubbly and golden. This recipe is a significant departure from earlier versions of macaroni and cheese, which often consisted of simply boiled pasta dressed with parmesan.
Raffald's recipe also reflects the growing popularity of both pasta and cheese in Europe during the 18th century. Pasta, which had originated in Italy, was becoming increasingly widespread, and cheese was a common ingredient in European cuisine. However, it is worth noting that while the 1769 recipe is the first modern recipe for macaroni and cheese, the dish itself may have existed in some form before this date. For example, there are mentions of pasta and cheese casseroles in various 14th-century cookbooks, including the Italian medieval tome Liber de Coquina.
The publication of Raffald's recipe marked a turning point in the history of macaroni and cheese, and the dish began to grow in popularity across Europe. It is interesting to note that while the recipe calls for cheddar cheese, which is a traditional English cheese, other varieties of cheese could also be used. For instance, Eliza Acton's 1845 book Modern Cookery for Private Families includes a recipe for macaroni and cheese that uses a béchamel sauce and features a variety of cheeses such as Parmesan, Gruyere, and Blue Stilton.
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Frequently asked questions
The first macaroni and cheese recipe was included in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, "The Experience". However, the dish likely has roots in Italy, with the earliest recipe being found in a 13th-century Italian cookbook.
While Thomas Jefferson is often credited with introducing macaroni and cheese to the United States, it was actually his enslaved Black chef, James Hemings, who perfected the recipe and introduced it to America's elite.
Thomas Jefferson brought James Hemings to France in 1784 and paid for him to be trained in French cuisine. Hemings then brought the dish back to the United States in 1789, adding his own spin to it.
Boxed macaroni and cheese was popularized by Kraft in 1937, when the company figured out a way to make powdered processed cheese.
