Blue Cheese: A Delicious, Complex Wonder

Blue cheese is a polarizing food—it can be a source of delight for some and disgust for others. But why is this so? After all, blue cheese is simply a type of cheese with additional steps in its production, which results in the cheese developing its characteristic blue veins. The process of making blue cheese involves the culturing of spore-rich inocula and fermentation to achieve its typical flavour. The mould that forms the blue veins is Penicillium roqueforti, which is freeze-dried and sprinkled onto the curds. This process of controlled fermentation has been used throughout history as a method of food storage, ensuring that food lasts longer. While some people may find the smell and taste of blue cheese off-putting, perhaps due to the presence of butyric acid, which is also found in rancid butter, others savour the complex flavours and aromas that develop during the fermentation process.

Why is Blue Cheese Amazing?

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Blue cheese is an acquired taste

Despite this, blue cheese has its admirers, with some considering it to be the "Greatest Cheese in the World". The unique flavour and aroma of blue cheese come from the breakdown of milk fats and the metabolism of blue mould, which forms chemical compounds known as ketones, specifically 2-Pentanone.

The process of making blue cheese involves six standard steps, with additional ingredients and processes to create its distinctive blue veins and properties. The first phase of production involves preparing a Penicillium roqueforti inoculum, which is then added to autoclaved, homogenised milk along with salt, sugar, or both. This solution is incubated for several days, and the process continues with further steps of whey drainage, salting, and ripening the cheese through ageing.

The origin of blue cheese is attributed to a legend about a young boy who left his bread and ewes' milk cheese in a cave for months, only to find that it had transformed into Roquefort upon his return. Gorgonzola, another early variety of blue cheese, is said to have existed since around AD 879, with the blue veins appearing later in the 11th century.

The strong flavour and odour of blue cheese may be an acquired taste for some, but it has its enthusiasts who savour its complex and unique characteristics.

It's divisive, loved and hated in equal measure

Blue cheese is said to be divisive, with people either loving it or hating it. In 2019, it was listed as the 7th most hated food in the UK, with 34% of people saying they can't stand blue-veined cheeses such as British Stilton, French Roquefort, and Spanish Valdeon. However, at the World Cheese Awards in Italy that same year, a blue cheese was named the "Greatest Cheese in the World". So, what is it about blue cheese that inspires such strong and contrasting opinions?

One theory is that blue cheese is off-putting by nature and that, like oysters, it is an acquired taste that some will never acquire. The flavours and aromas in blue cheese come from the breakdown of milk fats, but blue cheese also contains ketones, chemical compounds formed by the metabolism of blue mould, which give it a stronger taste and smell. This may be too much for some people, who find blue cheese overwhelming or disgusting.

Another theory is that those who dislike blue cheese have had limited exposure to the variety of blues available and perhaps had an initial negative experience with a blue cheese that was too strong. Tonya Schoenfuss, a blue cheese expert with a Ph.D. in dairy science, believes that some people are sensitive to the butyric acid in blue cheese, which is also present in rancid butter, and that this may be the reason for their aversion.

However, blue cheese has a long history, with one of the first blue cheeses, Roquefort, said to have been discovered when a young boy left his bread and ewes' milk cheese in a cave for months, only to find later that it had been transformed by mould. Gorgonzola, another early blue cheese, has been around since the 11th century, and new varieties continue to be created to this day. Blue cheese has clearly stood the test of time, and while it may not be for everyone, it has earned its place in the world of cheese.

It's been around for centuries

Blue cheese has indeed been around for centuries. One of the oldest known blue cheeses, Gorgonzola, was created around AD 879, though it is said that it did not contain blue veins until around the 11th century. Roquefort blue cheese also has a long history in France, with a legend claiming that it was discovered when a young man left his bread and cheese in a cave for months before finding that it had turned into blue cheese.

Blue cheese is created through the relationship between milk and mould. The different characteristics of blue cheeses depend on factors such as the type of milk used, the length of time it is left to age, and the conditions in which it is aged. The longer a cheese is left to age, the stronger its taste and smell will be, and humid conditions will result in a creamier cheese while dry conditions will yield a crumblier product.

The process of making blue cheese consists of six standard steps. First, raw milk is mixed and pasteurized. Then, acidification occurs through the addition of a starter culture. Next comes coagulation, where rennet is added to further solidify the milk. After that, curds are cut and ladled into containers to be drained and formed into wheels. The fifth step is whey drainage, which continues for 10-48 hours with no pressure applied. Finally, salt is added to the cheese for flavour and preservation before it is aged.

Blue cheese has been a divisive food for centuries, with some people loving it and others hating it. At the 2021 World Cheese Awards, a blue cheese was named the "Greatest Cheese in the World", while blue cheese was also listed as one of the top 10 most hated foods in the UK in a 2019 poll. While blue cheese may not be for everyone, it has certainly stood the test of time and remains a favourite for many.

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It's made using a specific type of mould

Blue cheese is made using a specific type of mould, Penicillium roqueforti, which is sprinkled on top of the curds along with Brevibacterium linens. This mould is responsible for the blue veins that characterise this type of cheese. The mould grows during the fermentation process, which typically lasts for 60-90 days, and contributes to the distinct flavour and aroma of blue cheese.

The process of making blue cheese is a carefully controlled one, involving two phases: the culturing of spore-rich inocula and fermentation for maximum flavour. In the first phase, a Penicillium roqueforti inoculum is prepared, which involves washing the mould from a pure culture agar plate and then freeze-drying it. This process retains the value of the culture, which can be reactivated by adding water.

Salt, sugar, or a combination of both, is added to autoclaved, homogenised milk via a sterile solution. This mixture is then inoculated with the reactivated Penicillium roqueforti and incubated for three to four days at a specific temperature range. More salt and/or sugar is added, and aerobic incubation continues for another one to two days.

Alternatively, a fermentation medium can be created by mixing sterilised, homogenised milk and reconstituted non-fat solids or whey solids with sterile salt. A spore-rich Penicillium roqueforti culture is then added, along with modified milk fat, which stimulates the release of free fatty acids essential for rapid flavour development.

The curds are then ladled into containers, drained, and formed into cheese loaves with an open texture. The moulds are inverted frequently to promote whey drainage, which continues for up to 48 hours without applying any pressure. More salt is added as a preservative, and the cheese is aged to complete the process.

The use of Penicillium roqueforti mould is a key factor in the production of blue cheese, contributing to its unique flavour, texture, and appearance.

It's the result of human innovation to extend food longevity

Blue cheese is the result of human innovation in food preservation. While the folklore of blue cheese suggests that it began as a mistake, the modern process of making blue cheese is a highly controlled and intentional one. The primary method of making blue cheese involves piercing, which may come as a surprise to some, as it is easier to imagine the cheese being directly injected with blue mould.

The process starts with simple-looking white wheels of cheese, which are then pierced with stainless steel needles to create crevices. These crevices allow oxygen to interact with the cultures in the cheese and facilitate the growth of blue mould from within. The mould belongs to the genus Penicillium, but it is important to note that these are not the same strains used as antibiotics. The mould is introduced by sprinkling the Penicillium roqueforti inoculum on top of the curds, along with Brevibacterium linens, a type of bacteria responsible for foot and body odour.

The process of making blue cheese is a form of controlled spoilage, a technique that has been used throughout history to extend the longevity of food. By nurturing non-harmful cultures, humans have been able to develop methods to keep food edible for longer periods. In the case of blue cheese, the controlled introduction of specific microorganisms creates the distinctive blue veins and extends its shelf life. This principle of culinary innovation can be seen in various food preservation techniques, such as smoking meats and fish, pickling, and brewing beers and wines, all of which aim to reduce the likelihood of food spoilage and enhance longevity.

The process of making blue cheese also involves several other steps that contribute to its unique flavour and texture. After piercing, the cheese is ripened through ageing, typically for a fermentation period of 60 to 90 days, to develop the characteristic blue cheese flavour. Additionally, the metabolism of blue mould breaks down fatty acids, forming chemical compounds called ketones, which contribute to the rich flavour and aroma of blue cheese. The cheesemaker's techniques, such as the amount of piercing, ripening methods, and the formation of a rind, can also influence the final product.

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