Randy Chandler
The colour of cheese is a result of the milk used, which in turn is influenced by the diet of the cows producing it. Pasture-fed cows produce milk with higher levels of beta-carotene, an orange pigment also found in carrots, in the spring and summer when their diet consists of fresh grass. This results in cheese with a deeper yellow colour. To standardise the colour of cheese, annatto, a natural food colouring derived from the seeds of the tropical achiote tree, is added. This gives cheese a rich orange hue and has been used for over 200 years.
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What You'll Learn
Milk and other ingredients
The main ingredient in cheese is milk, specifically cow's milk. The colour of cheese is influenced by the diet of the cows producing the milk. In the spring and summer, pasture-fed cows graze on fresh grass, which contains beta-carotene, an orange pigment also found in carrots, pumpkins, and sweet potatoes. This results in milk with higher beta-carotene levels, producing cheese with a deeper yellow or orange hue. Conversely, in the winter when cows' diets consist mostly of hay, beta-carotene levels in milk decrease, leading to the production of whiter cheese.
Historically, the colour of cheese varied seasonally due to changes in cows' diets. However, to meet customer demands and expectations, cheesemakers began adding colourants to standardise the appearance of their cheese throughout the year. This practice of adding colourants also occurred during the 17th century when cheesemakers added colourings such as saffron, marigold, carrot juice, and annatto to mask the white colour of low-fat cheese, passing it off as high-fat, naturally yellowish-orange cheese.
Annatto, derived from the seeds of the tropical achiote tree, has been used for over 200 years to dye cheese orange. It gives cheddar its characteristic rich orange colour and is preferred due to its minimal impact on taste and nutritional value. Other natural colourings used include saffron, marigold, and carrot juice.
In addition to milk, other ingredients used in cheesemaking include enzymes, which are added to break down fat globules and release the beta-carotene pigment, resulting in the orange colour. The type and quality of milk, as well as the cheesemaking process, can also influence the final colour and flavour of the cheese.
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Curds and whey separation
The process of making cheese involves adding an acidic agent to heated milk, causing it to curdle and separate into curds and whey. The curds are the solid part, while the whey is the liquid component. Here is a step-by-step guide to the curds and whey separation process:
Heating and Acidifying the Milk
Firstly, heat the milk to approximately 38°C. It is important not to overheat the milk; it should be warm but not hot. Once heated, add an acidic agent such as lemon juice, vinegar, or rennet diluted in water. Stir the mixture, then let it sit for about 30 minutes. The milk will start to curdle and become more solid. If it doesn't curdle sufficiently, you can add a small amount of additional acid.
Cutting the Curds
Once the milk has curdled, use a long knife to cut the solidified milk into roughly 1-inch squares. This step helps to separate the curds and whey and ensures even-sized curds, which is important for consistent moisture distribution in the final cheese.
Draining the Whey
After cutting the curds, carefully spoon them into a lined strainer or colander placed over another pot or pan. Allow the whey to drain out and collect in the vessel below. The whey can be saved and used for making other dairy products like ricotta.
Pressing and Salting the Curds
Let the curds drain for 15-20 minutes. Then, break up the curds and mix in salt, which slows bacterial growth and prevents excessive acidity. Place the salted curds in a dish and microwave in short intervals, stirring in between, until melted. Finally, stretch and fold the melted cheese to make it elastic, then form it into a ball and drop it into cold salted water.
Aging the Cheese
The cheese can now be aged to develop flavour and texture. The aging time varies depending on the desired characteristics of the final cheese. Young cheddar, for example, is typically mild and creamy, while aged cheddar is dry, crumbly, nutty, and sharp.
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Adding salt and flavourings
When adding salt, it is essential to consider the type of cheese being made and the desired salt concentration. The salt concentration can range from 1% to 2% or even higher, depending on the style of cheese. For example, a stronger-tasting cheese like blue cheese or feta might require a higher salt concentration to enhance its flavour.
The salt is typically added to the curds after they have been cut and stirred. This process, known as "salting the curds," helps to slow down the bacteria's activity and encourages the release of whey, contributing to the firming of the curds. The amount of salt added at this stage can vary depending on the desired moisture content and texture of the final cheese product.
In addition to salt, various flavourings can be added to enhance the taste of the cheese. Common flavourings include herbs, spices, and seasonings. For example, chives, garlic, or pepper can be mixed into the curds to create a savoury flavour profile. Sweet flavourings, such as honey or maple syrup, can also be added to create a more complex taste.
Some cheesemakers might also incorporate flavourings derived from natural sources, such as saffron, marigold, or carrot juice. These ingredients not only add a subtle flavour but can also contribute to the colour of the cheese. For instance, annatto, derived from the seeds of the tropical achiote tree, gives cheddar a rich orange hue without significantly altering its taste or nutritional value.
The addition of salt and flavourings is a delicate process that requires expertise and experimentation. Cheesemakers often refine their recipes over time, adjusting the types and amounts of salt and flavourings used to create unique and distinctive cheese products.
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Pressing and shaping
To press cheese, one can use a cheese press, which is a device specifically designed for this purpose. However, if you are making a small amount of cheese or are unsure about investing in a cheese press, you can try using heavy objects such as sacks of flour, jars of dried goods, free weights, or cookbooks to apply pressure. It is important to note that the weight of these objects will need to be considered, as the amount of pressure applied will depend on the surface area and density of the cheese. Additionally, if you are increasing the size of the cheese, you may need to increase the pressing weight.
When pressing cheese, it is important to regularly unwrap, redress, and turn the cheese. This will help distribute the remaining whey evenly throughout the cheese, ensuring an even shape and texture. If the cheese is not turned frequently, it can result in uneven surfaces and dry and moist spots.
After pressing, the cheese should be allowed to cool to the temperature of the brine before brining. Brining is important for improving the shape, texture, and shelf life of the cheese, as well as giving it a salty taste. The time spent in the brine will depend on the density and shape of the cheese, with denser cheeses requiring more time.
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Aging and packaging
Aging is one of the most important elements of the cheese-making process. It allows cheese to develop its full flavor, aroma, and texture. The aging process is what creates the thousands of cheese varieties that exist. Each type of cheese has a different aging period, ranging from three months to twelve months or even years for certain types of cheese. Softer cheeses like Muenster or mild cheddar take a shorter amount of time to age, while semi-hard and hard cheeses like sharp cheddar or parmesan take longer. Fresh cheeses like cottage cheese, ricotta, and feta are not aged and have a mild, soft, or creamy flavor.
Aging cheese at home can improve its flavor and texture, but it will not turn a block of basic cheddar into a wedge of parmesan. The best candidates for aging at home are moderate-quality, moderately aged cheeses without too many additives. A young block of inexpensive cheddar, for instance, can be covered and left to age in the fridge for a month or more. The bacteria in the cheese will continue to break down the lactose, turning it into lactic acid and creating a sharper flavor.
To age cheese at home, one must create a "cheese cave" with the proper temperature and humidity. A cellar or refrigerator works well for this purpose. The ideal temperature for aging cheese is between 50°F and 60°F, though most refrigerators are 10-15 degrees cooler than this. The temperature can be regulated with a refrigerator thermostat. The humidity can be regulated with a damp sponge or paper towel in the corner of the container, or with a shallow pan of water with a sterilized sponge or butter muslin. The cheese should be stored in an airtight container with 40% cheese and 60% empty space.
When it comes to packaging, cheese needs to be protected from outside contaminants and kept clean, while also being allowed to "breathe" to prevent a buildup of moisture and the growth of unwanted molds. Plastic wrap can be used to protect and preserve cheese but can also degrade flavor and aroma over time and cause oxidation of cut surfaces. Cheese paper, made from paper coated in wax and fused with a porous plastic inner layer, is a standard packaging material that allows cheese to breathe while protecting it from contaminants. Wax is another traditional packaging material, used for centuries to protect and preserve cheese, though it must be removed before the cheese is cut.
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Frequently asked questions
The colour orange in cheese comes from annatto or roucou, the red seeds of the achiote tree. Annatto has been used to dye cheese for over 200 years.
In the early days of cheddar cheese, cheese lovers preferred yellow cheddar over white cheddar. Even today, almost 90% of all cheese sold in the United States is cheddar. Sneaky cheesemakers realised that by adding dye to their white cheeses, they could trick people into thinking they were selling higher-quality cheese.
No, the small amounts of annatto needed to create the orange colour have little effect on the cheese's taste or nutritional value.
No, the colour does not affect the texture of the cheese. However, the age of the cheese is a big determining factor in its texture. Young cheddar is usually mild, creamy, slightly buttery, and easy to melt. Aged cheddar, on the other hand, is dry, crumbly, nutty, and sharp.
