Aging Raw Cheese: How Long For Food Safety?

Raw cheese is made from unpasteurized milk and is known for its rich flavour and high probiotic content. However, it can be a breeding ground for harmful bacteria such as Salmonella, Listeria, and E. coli, which can cause serious illnesses. To mitigate this risk, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) mandates that raw milk cheeses must be aged for at least 60 days at 35 degrees Fahrenheit or above before they can be sold. This aging process helps to eliminate harmful bacteria and reduce the risk of foodborne illnesses. The FDA's regulation is in line with the requirements in New Zealand, Australia, and Canada, while European countries tend to have more relaxed or non-existent rules due to their long-standing traditions of raw milk cheese production and consumption.

Raw cheese and health risks

Raw cheese is made from unpasteurized milk, which means it hasn't undergone the process of pasteurization—heating milk to a high temperature to kill bacteria. While raw cheese is known for its rich flavour and health benefits, there are health risks associated with consuming it.

Health Benefits

Raw cheese advocates claim that it has more flavour and nutrients, as well as microorganisms and organic compounds that support immune and digestive health. Studies have shown that consuming raw dairy may be linked to a reduced risk of allergies, asthma, and eczema. A 2013 study of 1700 people found that those who consumed raw milk in early childhood had a 41% reduction in the risk of asthma, a 41% reduction in the risk of hay fever, and a 26% reduction in the risk of allergies.

Health Risks

The health risks of consuming raw cheese are mainly due to the possibility of harmful bacteria, such as E. coli, Salmonella, Listeria, Campylobacter, Yersinia enterocolitica, and Staph aureus, contaminating the raw milk. These bacteria can cause serious illnesses, including Guillain-Barre syndrome, hemolytic uremic syndrome, and chronic inflammatory conditions, and in rare cases, even death.

Between 1993 and 2006, 73% of outbreaks from dairy products involved raw milk products, resulting in 202 hospitalizations and two deaths. While modern dairy production has improved in terms of cleanliness and regulation, raw dairy still poses a significant health threat.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires raw-milk cheese, domestic or imported, to be aged for at least 60 days before it’s sold to ensure the destruction of harmful bacteria. However, recent studies have shown that some bacteria can persist even after the aging process, making soft, young cheeses, such as Camembert and Brie, particularly risky to consume.

Who Is at Risk?

While anyone can get sick from consuming raw cheese, certain populations are at greater risk for more serious symptoms. These include individuals with compromised immune systems, children, adults over 65, pregnant people, and immunocompromised individuals. The CDC advises these individuals to avoid raw cheeses due to the risk of a listeria infection.

Pasteurisation and its benefits

Pasteurization is a process of food preservation that eliminates pathogens and extends shelf life. It was invented in 1822 by French microbiologist Louis Pasteur, whose research in the 1860s demonstrated that heating wine to about 57 °C (135 °F) for a few minutes would prevent abnormal fermentation. Pasteurization of milk, widely practiced in several countries, requires temperatures of about 63 °C (145 °F) maintained for 30 minutes or, alternatively, heating to a higher temperature, 72 °C (162 °F), and holding for 15 seconds.

Prolonged shelf life

Keeping a product fresh long enough for it to reach the market and then the consumer is essential. Some bacteria and other microorganisms can cause food products to deteriorate faster than it takes for the end consumer to purchase them. Therefore, pasteurization is vital to making your food products viable.

Quick and safe sanitation

There are many ways to sanitize food products, but few are as quick or safe as pasteurization. The temperature of the product is raised enough to destroy any microorganisms that may be present. Other methods may involve chemical treatments or radiation and may not be the safest to use.

Consistent product quality

By eliminating volatile contaminants, the product becomes more stable. Therefore, the quality of your product is more consistent. A more consistent product means that your customers know what to expect from your production lines.

Potential improvements in flavor and scent

In some cases, the pasteurization process can improve the smell and taste of your product. Certain foods and other products may have bacteria that produce unpleasant odors over time but do not necessarily impact the product’s quality. Removing those bacteria can create a more consistently pleasant experience for the consumer.

Regulatory compliance

Numerous laws are in place that require certain food products to be pasteurized or otherwise treated to remove bacteria and viruses. For example, the FDA requires that pasteurized eggs or egg products should be used instead of raw eggs in certain products when serving populations such as school children and nursing home patients. Regulations that apply to your industry may vary by state.

Raw milk cheese regulation in the US

Raw milk cheese is a divisive topic in the US, with some people arguing that it is unsafe to consume, while others believe that it is a delicious delicacy with a unique flavour profile. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has strict regulations in place regarding the consumption and sale of raw milk and raw milk products.

The History of Raw Milk Regulation in the US

In the US, the sale of raw milk over state lines is banned by federal law. However, individual states have the power to set their own regulations regarding the sale of raw milk and raw milk products within their borders. The history of raw milk regulation in the US is a long and complex one, dating back to the Industrial Revolution. The bans on raw milk were initially implemented as a response to poor manufacturing processes that led to the deaths of thousands of children.

Current FDA Regulations

Currently, the FDA mandates the pasteurisation of all milk products intended for human consumption. Pasteurisation is the process of heating a liquid or food to kill pathogenic bacteria, making the product safe to consume. For dairy products, the milk is heated to 145°F (63°C) for at least 30 minutes, or to at least 161°F (72°C) for 15 seconds. This process gives the products a longer shelf life by destroying enzymes and bacteria that cause spoilage, as well as harmful microorganisms.

The FDA also regulates the sale of raw milk cheese, requiring that it be aged for a minimum of 60 days at a temperature of 35°F (1.6°C) or above. This regulation is based on research suggesting that this is the shortest time and lowest temperature needed for the salts and acids in the cheese to break down lingering pathogens. However, recent studies have shown that some harmful bacteria can persist even after this ageing process, making some soft, young cheeses unsafe to consume.

State-by-State Variations

While the FDA sets the overarching regulations, individual states have the power to implement their own laws regarding the sale and consumption of raw milk and raw milk products. As of April 2016, raw milk sales in stores were legal in 13 states, with 17 states only permitting raw milk sales on farms. Eight of the states that prohibit sales allow the acquisition of raw milk through "cow-share" agreements, and 20 states prohibit all sales of raw milk.

Health Risks

The consumption of raw milk and raw milk products carries certain health risks. Between 1993 and 2012, fewer than 2,000 cases of illness resulting from the consumption of raw milk and raw milk products were reported in the US. However, the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has recommended that people should not consume raw milk or raw milk products due to the risk of bacterial infections such as Escherichia coli (E. coli), Salmonella, and Listeria.

The regulation of raw milk cheese in the US is a complex and multifaceted issue, involving federal, state, and local laws. While some people argue that raw milk cheese is a delicious and unique delicacy, others believe that it poses a significant health risk. Ultimately, the decision of whether or not to consume raw milk cheese in the US is left to the individual, taking into account the relevant regulations and health considerations.

Famous raw milk cheeses

Raw-milk cheeses are made with milk that is unpasteurized. They can be firm, oozy, creamy, or crumbly, and can come in any shape, from a wheel to a block. They are almost always made by small-scale artisanal producers and often come from a single-herd cow, sheep, or goat milk. Raw-milk cheeses are known for their unique flavour and are often regarded as more complex than pasteurized cheeses.

• Roquefort PDO, France: A blue sheep's milk cheese with a crumbly, soft texture and a complex flavour profile. It strikes a balance between sweet, savoury, salty, and piquant.
• Comte PDO, France: A hard cheese with 83 flavour profiles ranging from milky-sweet and citrussy to toasted bread and roasted peanuts.
• Brie de Meaux PDO, France: The perfect brie should be ripened through with no chalky line and a supple texture. It has savoury cabbage and mushroom aromas.
• Pitchfork Cheddar, Somerset: A raw milk, cloth-bound cheddar made by the same producers as Gorwydd Caerphilly. It is juicy, acidic, savoury, and brothy.
• Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, Italy: The ultimate expression of umami. As it matures, the flavours and aromas develop from citrus and hazelnuts to pineapple, walnuts, and pepper. It should be aged for a minimum of 12 months but is more complex at 24-30 months.
• Manchego, Spain: A famous Spanish raw milk cheese.
• Great Hill Blue, USA: A raw milk blue cheese.
• Raclette, Switzerland: A raw milk, washed-rind cheese.
• St. Nectaire, France: A raw milk, bloomy rind, and soft cheese.
• Vella Dry Jack, USA: A raw milk, semi-hard cheese.
• Bra, Italy: A raw milk, semi-hard cheese.

How to age cheese at home

Aging and storing cheese at home does not have to be complicated, expensive, or time-consuming. With a little knowledge and some basic equipment, you can create your own tiny cheese cave, right in your kitchen.

Cheese Cave Method #1: Use a Wine Refrigerator

The first (and best) option for storing cheese is a wine refrigerator. You can often find these second-hand for less than $100, and they are just about perfect for aging cheese. Try to find one with a temperature control feature.

Once you have your wine refrigerator, the next thing you'll need is a thermometer. A basic room or porch thermometer will work just fine, and some wine refrigerators come with one.

Next, you need to think about humidity. Cheese likes to be aged at about 55° to 65°F, with about 70% humidity. You can put a bowl or glass of cool water, about half full, inside your wine refrigerator and keep it there. If it needs filling, fill it. Make sure to toss it out if it gets moldy or gross; you don't want any stray bacteria contaminating your cheese.

Keep the shelves of your wine fridge clean; wipe them with white vinegar occasionally and try to keep various types of cheeses together to avoid as much cross-contamination as possible. Also, remember to check on your aging cheeses every other day or so. Rub them with olive or coconut oil if they start to feel too dry, and rub off any unwanted mold with a clean rag dipped in white vinegar.

Cheese Cave Method #2: Use a Crisp Refrigerator Drawer

If you don't have access to a wine refrigerator, or if buying one is outside your budget, there is another option: the crisper drawer of your refrigerator. It is small, and you will only be able to age 1 to 3 cheeses at a time. It can also be tough to control the temperature and humidity. But it will work if you are careful.

First, get that crisper drawer thoroughly emptied and cleaned out. Use a bleach solution for this; there are just too many opportunities for contamination in a refrigerator. Line the bottom of the drawer with a clean rag or paper towels.

Next, get a small jar or glass and fill it halfway with water. This will help keep your drawer more humid. If you have humidity and temperature control on your drawer, turn it to the most warm and humid setting.

If you can, keep your refrigerator on its warmest setting as well. Don't sacrifice the rest of your food for the sake of your cheese, of course, but warmer is better where cheese is concerned. Cheese will take longer to age with this method because the temperature in a refrigerator, even on its warmest setting, is significantly colder than the temperature in a wine fridge or basement. You may want to consider adding lipase to your recipes to help it along. Remember that when using lipase, the curd will be softer, and you may need to use a few extra drops of rennet to compensate.

When using your crisper drawer as a cheese cave, you will need to keep an especially close eye on humidity and look daily for signs of cross-contamination. Wax can also help if you find that your cheese is getting too dry.

Other Options

If you don't have access to a wine refrigerator or a refrigerator with a crisper drawer, there are still other options for aging cheese at home. You can convert a regular or dorm-sized refrigerator by plugging it into a regulator like a refrigerator thermostat and setting the temperature to 52-55°F. The humidity can be increased by using a shallow pan of water with a sterilized sponge or butter muslin to help the moisture evaporate.

Another option is to use a cool space in your cellar where the cheese can be protected in a cabinet or covered plastic box. Cellars usually have consistently cool temperatures for most of the year, but controlling the humidity can be a challenge. You can place the cheese into a plastic box with a lid to help regulate the proper humidity for aging. To elevate the humidity within the container, simply place a damp sponge or paper towel in the corner of the container, not touching the cheese. The goal is to add moisture to the air, not to the cheese.

How Long to Age Raw Cheese Before It's Safe

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires that raw-milk cheeses be aged for at least 60 days at less than 36°F. This is because research has shown that this is the shortest time and lowest temperature needed for the cheeses' salts and acids to break down lingering pathogens such as Listeria, Salmonella, and E. coli.

Frequently asked questions